Question:

I am in the market for an A6 2.7T or 4.2, and have read many posts concerning the recalls and ownership dissatisfaction issues. I can understand mfg. have recalls for problems arising beyond their foresight, but when these problems are not addressed sympathetically from the dealers’ service depts. — anger heightens. Please respond with accounts, remedies, opinions and mostly advice pertaining to a would-be new Audi enthusiast’s initial Audi purchase. FYI, I have been driving Nissans for 12 years now, with the last 7 in a 1994 300ZX Twin Turbo (410hp). I need to migrate to a "more sedate" family vehicle and believe I have found my niche with the sportier A6 Audis. — AG, — Philadelphia, PA

Response:

Alan writes: Please respond with accounts, remedies, opinions and mostly advice pertaining to a would-be new Audi enthusiast’s initial Audi purchase.

I owned a 2000 A6 4.2.  It was the best car I’ve ever owned until I bought my RS6.  The A6 4.2 performed perfectly with no complaints.   It had one recall (can’t remember for what), but it was addressed at the next Audi check-up.  I changed the oil every 3-4K miles in addition to the normal Audi maintenance. My son-in-law is now driving it, while his son is driving my old 94 S4 also sold to my son-in-law. Click on "About Cars" at my website.

Response:

Duh, here’s my website: http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html Dave http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html

Response:

I am in the market for an A6 2.7T or 4.2, and have read many posts concerning the recalls and ownership dissatisfaction issues.

I have been driving Audis (only) since 1996, with only one issue which required an unscheduled visit to the workshop – in 1999.  My last car was an A6 2.7T, an my current one is an RS6.  I have no concerns or dissatisfaction. — Peter Bell  (Note Spamtrap – To reply, replace ‘invalid’ with ‘bellfamily’)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am in the market for an A6 2.7T or 4.2, and have read many posts concerning the recalls and ownership dissatisfaction issues. I can understand mfg. have recalls for problems arising beyond their foresight, but when these problems are not addressed sympathetically from the dealers’ service depts. — anger heightens. Please respond with accounts, remedies, opinions and mostly advice pertaining to a would-be new Audi enthusiast’s initial Audi purchase. FYI, I have been driving Nissans for 12 years now, with the last 7 in a 1994 300ZX Twin Turbo (410hp). I need to migrate to a "more sedate" family vehicle and believe I have found my niche with the sportier A6 Audis. — AG, — Philadelphia, PA

I love my S4. I have friends with A6 4.2,  2.7TT, and even a 2.8, and they loved their cars. I don’t know anyone who doesn’t love their Audis. Just lucky, I guess. Which, wrt your question, is pretty much the name of the game, eh? /daytripper ‘00 S4 6spd  http://home.comcast.net/~day_trippr/junkdrawer/audi_s4.jpg

Response:

I have had endless quality issues with a 2003 2.7T A6. Too numerous to recount.  Virtually all of the problems handled with utter and total incompetence by the local dealer. Many instances of parts being replaced with equally defective "new" parts. It took 12 months and 19 dealer trips to solve most issues. Still have remotes whose batteries die in 4-5 weeks. Been replaced with equally defective new remotes once already. I gave up. The car drives like a dream when it is running properly. In my opinion, it is a major risk buying an Audi. You must be willing to accept frustrating problems if you buy one in my opinion. DFE

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am in the market for an A6 2.7T or 4.2, and have read many posts concerning the recalls and ownership dissatisfaction issues. I can understand mfg. have recalls for problems arising beyond their foresight, but when these problems are not addressed sympathetically from the dealers’ service depts. — anger heightens. Please respond with accounts, remedies, opinions and mostly advice pertaining to a would-be new Audi enthusiast’s initial Audi purchase. FYI, I have been driving Nissans for 12 years now, with the last 7 in a 1994 300ZX Twin Turbo (410hp). I need to migrate to a "more sedate" family vehicle and believe I have found my niche with the sportier A6 Audis. — AG, — Philadelphia, PA I love my S4. I have friends with A6 4.2,  2.7TT, and even a 2.8, and they loved their cars. I don’t know anyone who doesn’t love their Audis. Just lucky, I guess. Which, wrt your question, is pretty much the name of the game, eh? /daytripper ‘00 S4 6spd  http://home.comcast.net/~day_trippr/junkdrawer/audi_s4.jpg

Response:

DFE writes:

<snip tale of woe The car drives like a dream when it is running properly. In my opinion, it is a major risk buying an Audi. You must be willing to accept frustrating problems if you buy one in my opinion.

I believe you are in a very small minority.  I’ve been driving Quattros since they first came out in the 80s and I have had a minimum of  problems, and only ones you would expect (brakes, belt changes, etc.)  In fact, I won’t buy anything BUT Audi Quattros. I know of friends who have been frustrated with BMWs, Chevys, and Jags.  It’s the nature of the beast.  Some will bound to give you problems. Dave http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html

Response:

I have many friends who feel the same way as you do about Audis. Consumer reports rates them very low for reliability issues when compared to other luxury cars. All my friends rate them highly. I went with my friends, but in my case the collective experience of Consumer Reports was correct. While I’ll grant you I had a "lemon", there is no question the dealer in my area is laughably incompetent. There is also no question they replaced many parts with equally defective "new" parts. As an example, I have had a total of six key fob remotes none of which hold a battery charge  much longer than a month before the battery must be replaced. There is no way that this is due to chance alone. As always, your mileage may vary. DFE

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – DFE writes: <snip tale of woe The car drives like a dream when it is running properly. In my opinion, it is a major risk buying an Audi. You must be willing to accept frustrating problems if you buy one in my opinion. I believe you are in a very small minority.  I’ve been driving Quattros since they first came out in the 80s and I have had a minimum of  problems, and only ones you would expect (brakes, belt changes, etc.)  In fact, I won’t buy anything BUT Audi Quattros. I know of friends who have been frustrated with BMWs, Chevys, and Jags. It’s the nature of the beast.  Some will bound to give you problems. Dave http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html

Response:

DFE writes: As an example, I have had a total of six key fob remotes none of which hold a battery charge  much longer than a month before the battery must be replaced. There is no way that this is due to chance alone.

I wouldn’t think it would be.  How do you carry your keys?  Perhaps you are inadvertently keying it while it is in your pocket.  I’ve had key fobs for three different Audi’s and have never had that problem.   Dave http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html

Response:

DFE writes: As an example, I have had a total of six key fob remotes none of which hold a battery charge  much longer than a month before the battery must be replaced. There is no way that this is due to chance alone. I wouldn’t think it would be.  How do you carry your keys?  Perhaps you are inadvertently keying it while it is in your pocket.  I’ve had key fobs for three different Audi’s and have never had that problem.  

Likewise – I’ve never had to replace a key fob battery.  However, I’ve not kept one Audi more than 3.5 years, but that does indicate a battery life in excess of 40 months. It seems incredible that one person should be so ‘unlucky’ – it is possible that some ‘environmental’ factor is causing the problem. — Peter Bell  (Note Spamtrap – To reply, replace ‘invalid’ with ‘bellfamily’)

Response:

I can’t understand how my remote battery is still going strong after six years of never having been replaced. JP – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have many friends who feel the same way as you do about Audis. Consumer reports rates them very low for reliability issues when compared to other luxury cars. All my friends rate them highly. I went with my friends, but in my case the collective experience of Consumer Reports was correct. While I’ll grant you I had a "lemon", there is no question the dealer in my area is laughably incompetent. There is also no question they replaced many parts with equally defective "new" parts. As an example, I have had a total of six key fob remotes none of which hold a battery charge  much longer than a month before the battery must be replaced. There is no way that this is due to chance alone. As always, your mileage may vary. DFE DFE writes: <snip tale of woe The car drives like a dream when it is running properly. In my opinion, it is a major risk buying an Audi. You must be willing to accept frustrating problems if you buy one in my opinion. I believe you are in a very small minority.  I’ve been driving Quattros since they first came out in the 80s and I have had a minimum of  problems, and only ones you would expect (brakes, belt changes, etc.)  In fact, I won’t buy anything BUT Audi Quattros. I know of friends who have been frustrated with BMWs, Chevys, and Jags. It’s the nature of the beast.  Some will bound to give you problems. Dave http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html

Response:

I have owned my 2001 A6 4.2 now for a little over two years.  It currently has about  37,000 miles.  In the period of my ownership it has been in the shop for the following problems: radio replacement x2 Key Fob replacement (broke in half) x 1 Steering wheel leather delamination x 1 rear retractable sunscreen malfunction x 2 dash cupholder replacement x 1 hesitation at 3,000 RPM on hard acceleration x 7 (two separate dealers) Drivers door latch replacement x1 The best features of this car are the styling and the winter performance – I drive all year long on all season tires.  It is not the best handling car I have ever driven or the quickest and gets about 18-19 mpg – It sucks down the gas.  I might buy another Audi if Lexus doesn’t come out with an AWD sport sedan with better styling first.

Response:

Question:

American Pride ? Like you really think these cars and their parts are made in America ? Not anymore !!!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If the boy wants a rice-mobile, get him a Honda. If he wants American Pride, then he deserves a Mustang. If he puts lighting on that car, he’s gonna get dirty looks from people…. Mustang was just not made for that mess — Jason in Tampa Bay ‘95 GTS red 5-speed Cervini’s Stalker hood + bumper mods so far: BBK long tube’s Magnaflows using Flowmaster cat-back w/ 3" tips Motive Gear 3.90’s FMS Aluminum driveshaft soon: EEC programmable tuner chip Fuel Pressure Regulator Bassani shorty X-pipe Cobra foglights for Cervini’s bumper FMS or Steeda lowering springs Shifter Subframes Welds Pro Star wheels custom air intake Hi, I’ve ordered a Mach 1 which means my mustang will pass to my son who, like most teenagers who watched "Fast and the Furious" wants to add ground effect lighting. I don’t particularly object but I don’t want to do anything too invasive either.  My question is..  Has anyone actually installed a ground effect kit (like the LiteGlow) on a late model mustang?  If so, how much was involved in the installation (I’ve found all kinds of FAQ, etc., information but no installation instructions on the Net)? Please, not advice on whether or not to install it, just let me know if you have, how much trouble it was and how well you like it.  If you’d rather reply by email, just remove the X from the address Thanks in advance Perry

Response:

If the boy wants a rice-mobile, get him a Honda. If he wants American Pride, then he deserves a Mustang.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If he puts lighting on that car, he’s gonna get dirty looks from people…. Mustang was just not made for that mess — Jason in Tampa Bay ‘95 GTS red 5-speed Cervini’s Stalker hood + bumper mods so far: BBK long tube’s Magnaflows using Flowmaster cat-back w/ 3" tips Motive Gear 3.90’s FMS Aluminum driveshaft soon: EEC programmable tuner chip Fuel Pressure Regulator Bassani shorty X-pipe Cobra foglights for Cervini’s bumper FMS or Steeda lowering springs Shifter Subframes Welds Pro Star wheels custom air intake Hi, I’ve ordered a Mach 1 which means my mustang will pass to my son who, like most teenagers who watched "Fast and the Furious" wants to add ground effect lighting. I don’t particularly object but I don’t want to do anything too invasive either.  My question is..  Has anyone actually installed a ground effect kit (like the LiteGlow) on a late model mustang?  If so, how much was involved in the installation (I’ve found all kinds of FAQ, etc., information but no installation instructions on the Net)? Please, not advice on whether or not to install it, just let me know if you have, how much trouble it was and how well you like it.  If you’d rather reply by email, just remove the X from the address Thanks in advance Perry

Response:

Hi, I’ve ordered a Mach 1 which means my mustang will pass to my son who, like most teenagers who watched "Fast and the Furious" wants to add ground effect lighting. I don’t particularly object but I don’t want to do anything too invasive either.  My question is..  Has anyone actually installed a ground effect kit (like the LiteGlow) on a late model mustang?  If so, how much was involved in the installation (I’ve found all kinds of FAQ, etc., information but no installation instructions on the Net)? Please, not advice on whether or not to install it, just let me know if you have, how much trouble it was and how well you like it.  If you’d rather reply by email, just remove the X from the address Thanks in advance Perry

Response:

Tell him he can’t have it if he is gonna rice it! Also keep in mind in most place that stuff is illegal. So if a cop wants to hassle him for any reason he’ll be giving him a prime excuse to. MadDAWG

Response:

If he puts lighting on that car, he’s gonna get dirty looks from people…. Mustang was just not made for that mess — Jason in Tampa Bay ‘95 GTS red 5-speed Cervini’s Stalker hood + bumper mods so far: BBK long tube’s Magnaflows using Flowmaster cat-back w/ 3" tips Motive Gear 3.90’s FMS Aluminum driveshaft soon: EEC programmable tuner chip Fuel Pressure Regulator Bassani shorty X-pipe Cobra foglights for Cervini’s bumper FMS or Steeda lowering springs Shifter Subframes Welds Pro Star wheels custom air intake

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’ve ordered a Mach 1 which means my mustang will pass to my son who, like most teenagers who watched "Fast and the Furious" wants to add ground effect lighting. I don’t particularly object but I don’t want to do anything too invasive either.  My question is..  Has anyone actually installed a ground effect kit (like the LiteGlow) on a late model mustang?  If so, how much was involved in the installation (I’ve found all kinds of FAQ, etc., information but no installation instructions on the Net)? Please, not advice on whether or not to install it, just let me know if you have, how much trouble it was and how well you like it.  If you’d rather reply by email, just remove the X from the address Thanks in advance Perry

Response:

Question:

I know a guy who has done the same thing 2 times. IDIOT

Response:

Don’t let it bother you.  It’s all coming out of his pocket.  Hopefully you will have the pleasure of being there when his pistons start flying out. My sister-in-law’s husband refuses to change the oil in his car.  Nothing can convince him to do so even though he’s blown up several cars.  He pays… so be it.  It’s good for a laugh every time he does.

I have a friend who is the same way.  He has never changed oil in his life. The bad thing is, one of his current cars is a 65 Mustang 6cyl. that he’s owned since 94.  7 year old oil, and about 20,000 miles of driving can’t be good. LJH 95GT

Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Steeda Subs FMS 3.73’s Synthetics

Response:

Don’t let it bother you.  It’s all coming out of his pocket.  Hopefully you will have the pleasure of being there when his pistons start flying out. My sister-in-law’s husband refuses to change the oil in his car.  Nothing can convince him to do so even though he’s blown up several cars.  He pays… so be it.  It’s good for a laugh every time he does. I have a friend who is the same way.  He has never changed oil in his life. The bad thing is, one of his current cars is a 65 Mustang 6cyl. that he’s owned since 94.  7 year old oil, and about 20,000 miles of driving can’t be good.

Is there any explanation for this kind of attitude?  I mean, I know less than nothing about cars, and even I know that regular oil changes are practically a sacrament. Weird. Mara

Response:

Is there any explanation for this kind of attitude?  I mean, I know less than nothing about cars, and even I know that regular oil changes are practically a sacrament. Weird. Mara

I just don’t think they know any better.  Had a girlfriend who’s brother had a mint Fox convertible Mustang with the 4 cylinder engine. In the three years he owned it, he never changed the oil.  We’re guessing that he put about 30K miles on the oil.  One day on the expressway, he went to pass a truck.  Got up to about 85 MPH before it dropped a rod.  It punched a hole right through the oil pan, dumping that three year old sludge all over the road.  What a shame.  It just really bugs me when I see people do this to their cars.  I had to vent. Jim

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Don’t let it bother you.  It’s all coming out of his pocket.  Hopefully you will have the pleasure of being there when his pistons start flying out. My sister-in-law’s husband refuses to change the oil in his car. Nothing can convince him to do so even though he’s blown up several cars.  He pays… so be it.  It’s good for a laugh every time he does. I have a friend who is the same way.  He has never changed oil in his life. The bad thing is, one of his current cars is a 65 Mustang 6cyl. that he’s owned since 94.  7 year old oil, and about 20,000 miles of driving can’t be good. Is there any explanation for this kind of attitude?  I mean, I know less than nothing about cars, and even I know that regular oil changes are practically a sacrament.

He thinks that as long as there’s oil in it, he’s OK.  He also never checks the oil.  He adds some when the valves start chattering.  I’ve seen him drive his Thunderbird from my house to his (6 miles) knocking terribly from lack of oil.  I even tried to give him a couple of quarts.  His reply was "Nah, I’ll make it.  It’s a Ford." Weird.

Indeed! Mara

Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Steeda Subs FMS 3.73’s Synthetics

Response:

Slant sixes are virtually indestructible!!!  I did have a beater ‘79 2.3 Fairmont Futura that used ( burned and leaked) so much oil that every three months I just reached down and replaced the filter and topped up the oil. StuK — ThunderSnake #11

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is this guy that I see almost every evening in the parking lot when leaving work that has an older Maxima.  He’s been around for several years and he always does the following when starting his car: 1) Get in car, insert key into ignition, start up. 2) Immediately after ignition (less than 300 milliseconds), rev the shit out of the engine. 3) Continue to stomp on the gas, bringing the engine to redline until black smoke pours out of the tailpipe, engulfing half the parking lot. My old neighbor did this with a old Dodge Dart.  Start it and keep it at full throttle for at least 20 seconds.  Being a slant six I was worried, not about the engine itself but the fact that he pulled into his driveway and that damn thing was slanted towards my house.

Response:

There is this guy that I see almost every evening in the parking lot when leaving work that has an older Maxima.  He’s been around for several years and he always does the following when starting his car: 1) Get in car, insert key into ignition, start up. 2) Immediately after ignition (less than 300 milliseconds), rev the shit out of the engine. 3) Continue to stomp on the gas, bringing the engine to redline until black smoke pours out of the tailpipe, engulfing half the parking lot. 4) After about 10 seconds of this, throw it in drive and floor it so you can be "first" out of the parking lot. I know there are impatient folks out there, but I’ve never witnessed this kind of abuse!  He will do this every time he starts the car and I’ve seen him do it several times in -10 degree weather.  My stomach churns just thinking about the damage he’s causing.  The sad thing is, he probably thinks this is a "good" thing to do.  Yeah, that’s the ticket!  Blow all that black soot out of the engine.  Well, starting last week, I noticed his car was starting to backfire a little.  This week it’s even worse and getting louder.  Just out of curiosity, what can happen to an engine when abused like this over time?  Piston ring and cylinder wear is obvious, but do you think he trashed his valves somehow?  Maybe they’re not seating properly anymore.  Poor bastard.

Response:

There is this guy that I see almost every evening in the parking lot when leaving work that has an older Maxima.  He’s been around for several years and he always does the following when starting his car: 1) Get in car, insert key into ignition, start up. 2) Immediately after ignition (less than 300 milliseconds), rev the shit out of the engine. 3) Continue to stomp on the gas, bringing the engine to redline until black smoke pours out of the tailpipe, engulfing half the parking lot. 4) After about 10 seconds of this, throw it in drive and floor it so you can be "first" out of the parking lot.

Have you ever asked him why he does it?  I had a dying car once that would stall if you put it in drive without it being warmed-up.  In the winter, you had to either let it warm up for 10 minutes on its own, or you had to rev it for awhile and then hit the gas as soon as you put it in drive.  The rings were basically gone in the engine.  But, that 3.8 was later gone over and stuffed into a buddy’s ‘79 Chevette, so it lived on for a bit longer and made for some entertainment.

Response:

Don’t let it bother you.  It’s all coming out of his pocket.  Hopefully you will have the pleasure of being there when his pistons start flying out. My sister-in-law’s husband refuses to change the oil in his car.  Nothing can convince him to do so even though he’s blown up several cars.  He pays… so be it.  It’s good for a laugh every time he does. LJH 95GT

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is this guy that I see almost every evening in the parking lot when leaving work that has an older Maxima.  He’s been around for several years and he always does the following when starting his car: 1) Get in car, insert key into ignition, start up. 2) Immediately after ignition (less than 300 milliseconds), rev the shit out of the engine. 3) Continue to stomp on the gas, bringing the engine to redline until black smoke pours out of the tailpipe, engulfing half the parking lot. 4) After about 10 seconds of this, throw it in drive and floor it so you can be "first" out of the parking lot. I know there are impatient folks out there, but I’ve never witnessed this kind of abuse!  He will do this every time he starts the car and I’ve seen him do it several times in -10 degree weather.  My stomach churns just thinking about the damage he’s causing.  The sad thing is, he probably thinks this is a "good" thing to do.  Yeah, that’s the ticket!  Blow all that black soot out of the engine.  Well, starting last week, I noticed his car was starting to backfire a little.  This week it’s even worse and getting louder.  Just out of curiosity, what can happen to an engine when abused like this over time?  Piston ring and cylinder wear is obvious, but do you think he trashed his valves somehow?  Maybe they’re not seating properly anymore.  Poor bastard.

Response:

Question:

Why would it matter?  As long as the deck has power, ground, and the obvious speaker and antennae connections, it would be the sam e as any other deck. Just make sure you have the code before you install it in the new car.  Many newer decks have this feature if the face is not removable/hideable.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What about the radio code? Doesn’t honda radios only work in honda only cars? ;does my integra deck work with my chevy nova. Yes. The problem is which wire is which, you also need to figure out which speaker wire is ground by intuition, unless someone is kind enough to post the wire colors and it’s properties… I just got a new car deck, I want to install it in my Integra, my question is what do I do with the factory radio? Is it possible to put it in another car like my 88′ Chevy Nova? I just don’t want to trash it since my other car doesn’t have a tape deck.

Response:

I believe they’re talking about the Anti-theft Radios in some of the Hondas.  As long as you have the Radio Code, you can install the radio in anything you like. If you let me know what kind of Integra you have, I can let you know the pinout on the radio on Monday when I get backto work.  Or, you can try a good stereo shop.  The good ones have both Male and Female wirng harnesses for installing aftermarket radios in different cars. They usuually run about 15-20 dollars.  In Canada you can get them from Carrady Imports, or one of their distributors. Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Why would it matter?  As long as the deck has power, ground, and the obvious speaker and antennae connections, it would be the sam e as any other deck. Just make sure you have the code before you install it in the new car.  Many newer decks have this feature if the face is not removable/hideable. What about the radio code? Doesn’t honda radios only work in honda only cars? ;does my integra deck work with my chevy nova. Yes. The problem is which wire is which, you also need to figure out which speaker wire is ground by intuition, unless someone is kind enough to post the wire colors and it’s properties… I just got a new car deck, I want to install it in my Integra, my question is what do I do with the factory radio? Is it possible to put it in another car like my 88′ Chevy Nova? I just don’t want to trash it since my other car doesn’t have a tape deck.

Response:

What about the radio code? Doesn’t honda radios only work in honda only cars?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ;does my integra deck work with my chevy nova. Yes. The problem is which wire is which, you also need to figure out which speaker wire is ground by intuition, unless someone is kind enough to post the wire colors and it’s properties… I just got a new car deck, I want to install it in my Integra, my question is what do I do with the factory radio? Is it possible to put it in another car like my 88′ Chevy Nova? I just don’t want to trash it since my other car doesn’t have a tape deck.

Response:

I just got a new car deck, I want to install it in my Integra, my question is what do I do with the factory radio? Is it possible to put it in another car like my 88′ Chevy Nova? I just don’t want to trash it since my other car doesn’t have a tape deck.

Response:

;does my integra deck work with my chevy nova. Yes. The problem is which wire is which, you also need to figure out which speaker wire is ground by intuition, unless someone is kind enough to post the wire colors and it’s properties… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just got a new car deck, I want to install it in my Integra, my question is what do I do with the factory radio? Is it possible to put it in another car like my 88′ Chevy Nova? I just don’t want to trash it since my other car doesn’t have a tape deck.

Response:

it should.  Just mark which wires are which when you remove it.  Also, make sure it will fit in the other car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just got a new car deck, I want to install it in my Integra, my question is what do I do with the factory radio? Is it possible to put it in another car like my 88′ Chevy Nova? I just don’t want to trash it since my other car doesn’t have a tape deck.

Response:

Question:

      Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER      This was the first Chrysler I have owned since a 1978 Horizon, that car was SO BAD I swore I would never own another Chrysler and I failed to listen to my own advice…for those of you thinking of buying a Chrysler product…DON’T they are built like CRAP!!!!!      Yeah yeah I know any car can go bad…well I have owned GM, Ford, Volvo and only the Chryslers I own have been this much trouble…STAY AWAY FROM

Response:

I bet somebody at the dealership over or underfilled your trans. Get a sample of the fluid and have a truck lubricant testing lab tell you if it was the real 7176.  Drain every drop out of it and compare to the factory capacity. The trans was either ready to die and this is a big coincidence, or somebody screwed up. Gavin Talk is cheap.  Whiskey costs money. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –      Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER     This was the first Chrysler I have owned since a 1978 Horizon, that car was SO BAD I swore I would never own another Chrysler and I failed to listen to my own advice…for those of you thinking of buying a Chrysler product…DON’T they are built like CRAP!!!!!     Yeah yeah I know any car can go bad…well I have owned GM, Ford, Volvo and only the Chryslers I own have been this much trouble…STAY AWAY FROM

Response:

Gavin–      I actually watched the mechanic fill it with ATF 3 7176 and it did appear to be at the proper level to me.  I am usually careful about who works on my car and this mechanic did seem to know his stuff.  Plus the dealership is a reputable one and I have bought cars from them in the past because their service is so good. Albeit the cars I bought were Chevys…which I intend to return to as soon as possible.     Maybe it was a big coincidence and maybe the tranny was ready to die, however, a tranny dying at 81500 is absurd…my girlfriend has a 1992 Cavalier with 112K+ on the clock and the tranny is just fine.  That’s my point, I gave Chrysler another chance and once again I am major league disappointed.  Too bad for them, the next car I was going to buy was a 300 M…now it will be something from the General or the Oval guys.     Thanks for the shout back though. Ted

Response:

A friend of mine Maxima AT died the first year.  Very rare, the dealer said. My 91 Ford Taurus AT died at 41000.  Bad seals. My sister’s farther in laws Camry AT died at 60K. My 75 Malibu AT died at 20k – plastic governer gear. I’ve own Chrysler’s, GM, 3 Toyotas, a VW Rabbit, Subaru, Fords, and others.  Things break.  The worst of the bunch were 2 Ford Tauruses from 1991.  Every 3 months I would have to bring them in for and oil and filter change, and major repair. My 94 LHS has been relatively reliable.  And the 300M appears much better put together.  Anyway, good luck with your next car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –       Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER      This was the first Chrysler I have owned since a 1978 Horizon, that car was SO BAD I swore I would never own another Chrysler and I failed to listen to my own advice…for those of you thinking of buying a Chrysler product…DON’T they are built like CRAP!!!!!      Yeah yeah I know any car can go bad…well I have owned GM, Ford, Volvo and only the Chryslers I own have been this much trouble…STAY AWAY FROM

Response:

Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER

I gotta say…… HOGWASH! I have a 1993 Vision TSi, with almost 101,000 miles on it, and its running FINE! NO problems with the transmission. None. Zero! My father has an ‘89 Chrysler, and just under 100,000 miles. He too has Zero problems. Sounds like a it was ready to go anyway, but couldn’t explain why. Just remember, everything averages out. Sounds lke yours was just at the low end of the bell curve. I guess I’m on the other end! To make the generalization that Chrysler is bad just isn’t a rational call! Happy driving……. Paul

Response:

actually Paul…this is the second Chyrsler at the bottom of the bell curve as you say…burn me once shame on you, burn me twice shame on me…wish it wasn’t so ’cause I do like the car…but dependability COUNTS.

Response:

      Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER

What were the symtoms and what have you done with the car? I have noticed on several different cars, that changing the tranny fluid after it’s been in there for a long time results in the tranny acting up for some time, but after driving a while, the problem goes away.  I replace the fluid in my 94 Vision after 30K miles (60K on the car and 30K after the last change), and the transission would radomly go into limp-in mode.  This happened several times the first week, twice the second week, and one more time about two weeks later.  I did nothing more to the car ad the tranny has been working fine for 30K more miles. I don’t plan to change the fluid again. I have seen similar situations with an ‘84 Camry, an old Chevy Suburban.  All have returned to "normal" following shifting problems after fluid replacement.

Response:

      Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER      This was the first Chrysler I have owned since a 1978 Horizon, that car was SO BAD I swore I would never own another Chrysler and I failed to listen to my own advice…for those of you thinking of buying a Chrysler product…DON’T they are built like CRAP!!!!!      Yeah yeah I know any car can go bad…well I have owned GM, Ford, Volvo and only the Chryslers I own have been this much trouble…STAY AWAY FROM

Response:

I bet somebody at the dealership over or underfilled your trans. Get a sample of the fluid and have a truck lubricant testing lab tell you if it was the real 7176.  Drain every drop out of it and compare to the factory capacity. The trans was either ready to die and this is a big coincidence, or somebody screwed up. Gavin Talk is cheap.  Whiskey costs money. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –      Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER     This was the first Chrysler I have owned since a 1978 Horizon, that car was SO BAD I swore I would never own another Chrysler and I failed to listen to my own advice…for those of you thinking of buying a Chrysler product…DON’T they are built like CRAP!!!!!     Yeah yeah I know any car can go bad…well I have owned GM, Ford, Volvo and only the Chryslers I own have been this much trouble…STAY AWAY FROM

Response:

Gavin–      I actually watched the mechanic fill it with ATF 3 7176 and it did appear to be at the proper level to me.  I am usually careful about who works on my car and this mechanic did seem to know his stuff.  Plus the dealership is a reputable one and I have bought cars from them in the past because their service is so good. Albeit the cars I bought were Chevys…which I intend to return to as soon as possible.     Maybe it was a big coincidence and maybe the tranny was ready to die, however, a tranny dying at 81500 is absurd…my girlfriend has a 1992 Cavalier with 112K+ on the clock and the tranny is just fine.  That’s my point, I gave Chrysler another chance and once again I am major league disappointed.  Too bad for them, the next car I was going to buy was a 300 M…now it will be something from the General or the Oval guys.     Thanks for the shout back though. Ted

Response:

A friend of mine Maxima AT died the first year.  Very rare, the dealer said. My 91 Ford Taurus AT died at 41000.  Bad seals. My sister’s farther in laws Camry AT died at 60K. My 75 Malibu AT died at 20k – plastic governer gear. I’ve own Chrysler’s, GM, 3 Toyotas, a VW Rabbit, Subaru, Fords, and others.  Things break.  The worst of the bunch were 2 Ford Tauruses from 1991.  Every 3 months I would have to bring them in for and oil and filter change, and major repair. My 94 LHS has been relatively reliable.  And the 300M appears much better put together.  Anyway, good luck with your next car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –       Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER      This was the first Chrysler I have owned since a 1978 Horizon, that car was SO BAD I swore I would never own another Chrysler and I failed to listen to my own advice…for those of you thinking of buying a Chrysler product…DON’T they are built like CRAP!!!!!      Yeah yeah I know any car can go bad…well I have owned GM, Ford, Volvo and only the Chryslers I own have been this much trouble…STAY AWAY FROM

Response:

Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER

I gotta say…… HOGWASH! I have a 1993 Vision TSi, with almost 101,000 miles on it, and its running FINE! NO problems with the transmission. None. Zero! My father has an ‘89 Chrysler, and just under 100,000 miles. He too has Zero problems. Sounds like a it was ready to go anyway, but couldn’t explain why. Just remember, everything averages out. Sounds lke yours was just at the low end of the bell curve. I guess I’m on the other end! To make the generalization that Chrysler is bad just isn’t a rational call! Happy driving……. Paul

Response:

actually Paul…this is the second Chyrsler at the bottom of the bell curve as you say…burn me once shame on you, burn me twice shame on me…wish it wasn’t so ’cause I do like the car…but dependability COUNTS.

Response:

      Have a 1993 Eagle Vision TSi…had dealer change the Trans Fluid and filter ten days ago as preventive maintenance at 81500 miles…used ATF-3 7176 as recommended by Chrysler…now the seals, etc. are shot and the trans needs rebuilding at a cost of $1,500.00…my advice STAY AWAY FROM CHRYSLER

What were the symtoms and what have you done with the car? I have noticed on several different cars, that changing the tranny fluid after it’s been in there for a long time results in the tranny acting up for some time, but after driving a while, the problem goes away.  I replace the fluid in my 94 Vision after 30K miles (60K on the car and 30K after the last change), and the transission would radomly go into limp-in mode.  This happened several times the first week, twice the second week, and one more time about two weeks later.  I did nothing more to the car ad the tranny has been working fine for 30K more miles. I don’t plan to change the fluid again. I have seen similar situations with an ‘84 Camry, an old Chevy Suburban.  All have returned to "normal" following shifting problems after fluid replacement.

Response:

Question:

Back in the late eighties, my dad purchased a book of Ford recalls / Techncial Service Bulletins that covered our 87 T-Bird and other various Ford passenger cars.  The book was a smaller paperback book, light blue in color.  Does anyone know if anything like like exists now that would cover ‘96 passenger cars (Mustang included)? Thx, Nathan Nichols

Response:

In my search for a fix to my electrical problem (injectors get no signal), I came accross http://www.alldata.com/. They sell cdroms with tsb’s and recalls on them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Back in the late eighties, my dad purchased a book of Ford recalls / Techncial Service Bulletins that covered our 87 T-Bird and other various Ford passenger cars.  The book was a smaller paperback book, light blue in color.  Does anyone know if anything like like exists now that would cover ‘96 passenger cars (Mustang included)? Thx, Nathan Nichols

Response:

Question:

I wonder….  Is the driver side lock actuator the same as the passenger side? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all, this fix worked on my 1992 Legend, but door lock actuator on that is very similar to cars with ‘Honda’ badges on the back… My door lock actuator (driver’s side) was causing locks to keep locking after hitting the lock button (would cycle about 2-4 times). I got a used one from a junkyard (new one $200+ for parts alone!). Only problem was that the junkyard one was no better. I had some extra time one Saturday (about a month ago) and took the junkyard actuator apart to see if I could tell what was causing this. I removed the actuator motor (black plastic piece at the bottom held onto door latch assembly with 3-4 screws). I further disassembled the actual lock/unlock mechanism inside of actuator motor (white plastic half-gear with electrical contacts on the bottom… this took a while). I used some contact cleaner and cleaned up the contacts. I also bent the contact tabs down a little to create a better connection. I was inside the door panel about 2 weeks ago replacing a speaker, and decided to try the ‘rebuilt’ actuator.  It has been working like a champ ever since!!! (Used to act up about every 3rd time I locked the doors…) I hope this helps someone else out there save some $$$…                                Chris

Response:

Thanks for the info. All I need now is to put one on my car. Those universals are so noisy. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all, this fix worked on my 1992 Legend, but door lock actuator on that is very similar to cars with ‘Honda’ badges on the back… My door lock actuator (driver’s side) was causing locks to keep locking after hitting the lock button (would cycle about 2-4 times). I got a used one from a junkyard (new one $200+ for parts alone!). Only problem was that the junkyard one was no better. I had some extra time one Saturday (about a month ago) and took the junkyard actuator apart to see if I could tell what was causing this. I removed the actuator motor (black plastic piece at the bottom held onto door latch assembly with 3-4 screws). I further disassembled the actual lock/unlock mechanism inside of actuator motor (white plastic half-gear with electrical contacts on the bottom… this took a while). I used some contact cleaner and cleaned up the contacts. I also bent the contact tabs down a little to create a better connection. I was inside the door panel about 2 weeks ago replacing a speaker, and decided to try the ‘rebuilt’ actuator.  It has been working like a champ ever since!!! (Used to act up about every 3rd time I locked the doors…) I hope this helps someone else out there save some $$$…                                Chris

Response:

Hi all, this fix worked on my 1992 Legend, but door lock actuator on that is very similar to cars with ‘Honda’ badges on the back… My door lock actuator (driver’s side) was causing locks to keep locking after hitting the lock button (would cycle about 2-4 times). I got a used one from a junkyard (new one $200+ for parts alone!). Only problem was that the junkyard one was no better. I had some extra time one Saturday (about a month ago) and took the junkyard actuator apart to see if I could tell what was causing this. I removed the actuator motor (black plastic piece at the bottom held onto door latch assembly with 3-4 screws). I further disassembled the actual lock/unlock mechanism inside of actuator motor (white plastic half-gear with electrical contacts on the bottom… this took a while). I used some contact cleaner and cleaned up the contacts. I also bent the contact tabs down a little to create a better connection. I was inside the door panel about 2 weeks ago replacing a speaker, and decided to try the ‘rebuilt’ actuator.  It has been working like a champ ever since!!! (Used to act up about every 3rd time I locked the doors…) I hope this helps someone else out there save some $$$…                                Chris

Response:

Question:

I have a ‘69 Mach 1 and I go through batteries like crazy.  I bought the most recent replacement about 3 months ago, but I’m already having problems.  The water seems to fizz out of the battery and when I happened to check it the other day, all of the chambers were half empty.  Does anybody have an idea about what the problem is? Thanks, Robby Oh ya, the battery before that almost blew up in my engine compartment after it expanded about twice its normal size.  I just dismissed it as a faulty battery, but now I think I might have a problem.  Any help is appreciated.

Response:

: I have a ‘69 Mach 1 and I go through batteries like crazy.  I bought the : most recent replacement about 3 months ago, but I’m already having : problems.  The water seems to fizz out of the battery and when I : happened to check it the other day, all of the chambers were half : empty.  Does anybody have an idea about what the problem is? : : Thanks, Robby : : Oh ya, the battery before that almost blew up in my engine compartment : after it expanded about twice its normal size.  I just dismissed it as a : faulty battery, but now I think I might have a problem.  Any help is : appreciated. your alternator is overcharging the battery. could be a wiring problem(bad connection) or bad regulator. ken  Homepage  http://www.bcpl.lib.md.us/~kkovler Replies to this broadcast should be sent to.. All else will be forwarded to /dev/null

Response:

I have a ‘69 Mach 1 and I go through batteries like crazy.  I bought the most recent replacement about 3 months ago, but I’m already having problems.  The water seems to fizz out of the battery and when I happened to check it the other day, all of the chambers were half empty.  Does anybody have an idea about what the problem is? Thanks, Robby

Sounds like your battery is getting WAY over charged.  I have dealt with this problem in places other than cars, and I have always changed  the charger which I know isn’t exactly an option for your situation.  I’d say have your alternator and or charging circuit checked. —   89 5.0 LX HB K&N Pro 5.0 Flow Master Mac   73 Charger 340Wedge New Process 4spd Chrysler 8.75/w 4.10 SureGrip   65 Thunderbird Town Landau FE390   63 Dodge Dart 413 Max Wedge 8bbl short ram  It is unlawful to use this email address for unsolicited commercial email per United States Code Title 47 Sec. 227. I assess a US $500 charge for reviewing & deleting each unsolicited commercial email. Sending unsolicited commercial email to my email address denotes acceptance of these terms. My posting messages to UseNet neither grants consent to receiving nor is intended to solicit commercial email.   To Reply, remove the  NOSPAM  and send.

Response:

I have a ‘69 Mach 1 and I go through batteries like crazy.  I bought the most recent replacement about 3 months ago, but I’m already having problems.  The water seems to fizz out of the battery and when I happened to check it the other day, all of the chambers were half empty.  Does anybody have an idea about what the problem is? Thanks, Robby Oh ya, the battery before that almost blew up in my engine compartment after it expanded about twice its normal size.  I just dismissed it as a faulty battery, but now I think I might have a problem.  Any help is appreciated.

Try replacing your voltage regulator and/or have your alternator checked. Jeff,

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a ‘69 Mach 1 and I go through batteries like crazy.  I bought the most recent replacement about 3 months ago, but I’m already having problems.  The water seems to fizz out of the battery and when I happened to check it the other day, all of the chambers were half empty.  Does anybody have an idea about what the problem is? Thanks, Robby Oh ya, the battery before that almost blew up in my engine compartment after it expanded about twice its normal size.  I just dismissed it as a faulty battery, but now I think I might have a problem.  Any help is appreciated. Try replacing your voltage regulator and/or have your alternator checked. Jeff,

Check your negative battery cable.  I’d remove it from the engine block and really clean it good.  Try coating it with some vaseline to protect it from corrosion.  I had the same exact problems and it turned out the negative battery cable was not making a good connection to the engine block.  There was a small small gauge wire that was also attached to the negative battery terminal and was bolted to my fender well near the voltage regulator.  Turned out that during the times the heavy negative battery cable was ineffective the entire car was being grounded by the small small gauge wire on the fender well.   This small wire was not big enough to ground the car so everything got really hot, the battery would not charge sufficiently. Brian.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a ‘69 Mach 1 and I go through batteries like crazy.  I bought the most recent replacement about 3 months ago, but I’m already having problems.  The water seems to fizz out of the battery and when I happened to check it the other day, all of the chambers were half empty.  Does anybody have an idea about what the problem is? Thanks, Robby Oh ya, the battery before that almost blew up in my engine compartment after it expanded about twice its normal size.  I just dismissed it as a faulty battery, but now I think I might have a problem.  Any help is appreciated. Try replacing your voltage regulator and/or have your alternator checked. Jeff,

I just experienced the same problem on my 68. I checked my alternator and it was outputing 19V. dfg  

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a ‘69 Mach 1 and I go through batteries like crazy.  I bought the most recent replacement about 3 months ago, but I’m already having problems.  The water seems to fizz out of the battery and when I happened to check it the other day, all of the chambers were half empty.  Does anybody have an idea about what the problem is? Thanks, Robby Oh ya, the battery before that almost blew up in my engine compartment after it expanded about twice its normal size.  I just dismissed it as a faulty battery, but now I think I might have a problem.  Any help is appreciated. Try replacing your voltage regulator and/or have your alternator checked. Jeff, I just experienced the same problem on my 68. I checked my alternator and it was outputing 19V. dfg

        Your problem could very likely be an over charging condition. Voltage regulator would be the most likely culprit. — Craig Cantrell 1997 Cobra Convertible Pacific Green/Saddle #2149

Response:

Question:

Does anyone know if it’s possible to swap in part or whole a turbo 3.0L from either the mitsu 3000 or a dodge stealth?  If so, do you also have to swap the computer from the mitsu or can I still use the voyager computer?  Obviously the exhaust system would have to be modified.  BTW I have the 3 speed auto. — Jeff

Sorry it will not fit and you would need all elec from mitsu

Response:

Does anyone know if it’s possible to swap in part or whole a turbo 3.0L from either the mitsu 3000 or a dodge stealth?  If so, do you also have to swap the computer from the mitsu or can I still use the voyager computer?  Obviously the exhaust system would have to be modified.  BTW I have the 3 speed auto.

Now THAT would be cool!  I’ve given the same swap some thought over the years, too.  I just peeked under the hood of our ‘96 Voyager with the 3.0 engine and I don’t see how the DOHC engine could fit in that vehicle–the cam cover for the "inside" bank of cylinders is very close to the firewall; it doesn’t look like there would be enough clearance for a wider head/cam cover that comes with the DOHC turbo engine. However, the swap may be much more doable from the standpoint of space on older Voyagers & Caravans.  I think a bigger problem would be getting the transaxle from a Stealth/3000 to work in the minivan.  God knows the A604 tranny wouldn’t hold up under the kind of power churned out by the turbo engine, and I don’t think the 3-speed auto trans would, either.

Response:

A thought occured to me as I was reading that last article. What is the automatic transmission used in the Stealth/3000GT? If it’s not, say, a beefed up A604 then maybe Chrysler should think about putting it in all the cars that use the 41TE/A604??? It’s probably electronic and could be tuned to different cars’ power band. It’s probably a lot more durable than the 41TE/A604 because it has to handle 300 hp or what ever the Stealth/3000GT’s turbo motor is. It might not even be related to the 41TE/A604! Maybe someone should check out the specs on this car and see what tranny is used. — Remove "spamthis" to send mail to me

Response:

Does anyone know if it’s possible to swap in part or whole a turbo 3.0L from either the mitsu 3000 or a dodge stealth?  If so, do you also have to swap the computer from the mitsu or can I still use the voyager computer?  Obviously the exhaust system would have to be modified.  BTW I have the 3 speed auto. — Jeff

Response:

Does anyone know if it’s possible to swap in part or whole a turbo 3.0L from either the mitsu 3000 or a dodge stealth?  If so, do you also have to swap the computer from the mitsu or can I still use the voyager computer?  Obviously the exhaust system would have to be modified.  BTW I have the 3 speed auto. — Jeff

Response:

Does anyone know if it’s possible to swap in part or whole a turbo 3.0L from either the mitsu 3000 or a dodge stealth?  If so, do you also have to swap the computer from the mitsu or can I still use the voyager computer?  Obviously the exhaust system would have to be modified.  BTW I have the 3 speed auto. — Jeff

Sorry it will not fit and you would need all elec from mitsu

Response:

Does anyone know if it’s possible to swap in part or whole a turbo 3.0L from either the mitsu 3000 or a dodge stealth?  If so, do you also have to swap the computer from the mitsu or can I still use the voyager computer?  Obviously the exhaust system would have to be modified.  BTW I have the 3 speed auto.

Now THAT would be cool!  I’ve given the same swap some thought over the years, too.  I just peeked under the hood of our ‘96 Voyager with the 3.0 engine and I don’t see how the DOHC engine could fit in that vehicle–the cam cover for the "inside" bank of cylinders is very close to the firewall; it doesn’t look like there would be enough clearance for a wider head/cam cover that comes with the DOHC turbo engine. However, the swap may be much more doable from the standpoint of space on older Voyagers & Caravans.  I think a bigger problem would be getting the transaxle from a Stealth/3000 to work in the minivan.  God knows the A604 tranny wouldn’t hold up under the kind of power churned out by the turbo engine, and I don’t think the 3-speed auto trans would, either.

Response:

A thought occured to me as I was reading that last article. What is the automatic transmission used in the Stealth/3000GT? If it’s not, say, a beefed up A604 then maybe Chrysler should think about putting it in all the cars that use the 41TE/A604??? It’s probably electronic and could be tuned to different cars’ power band. It’s probably a lot more durable than the 41TE/A604 because it has to handle 300 hp or what ever the Stealth/3000GT’s turbo motor is. It might not even be related to the 41TE/A604! Maybe someone should check out the specs on this car and see what tranny is used. — Remove "spamthis" to send mail to me

Response:

Question:

[ ... ] revive the Plymouth name and build dealer traffic. For 35K, a turnkey Cobra kit cars starts to look good.

The kit car looks good — but that’s all you will have is a starter kit.  The thing will be a compromise in every direction and well, it won’t be anything like a real Cobra. But you won’t have to keep the Prowler in the garage.  It’ll have it all, distinct street rod looks (haven’t seen one in person for a while, but this is a very good look), and a roof (two actually), windows that roll up and down, and a/c, and a nice radio, and good power, and a warranty, won’t rust.  Sure it has a 6, so what?  An automatic?  Gimme a break, it’s basically a slap stick what any rodder puts on their automatics anyway.  And it’ll have a warranty. Hopefully it’ll handle great and be pretty fast.  That should eat up Vette sales – them things are way to hard to see out of and get into (but they are fully outrageous fun).  But like a vette, storage space will be quite a bit on the *none* side.  Hopefully it’ll take two golf bags and a big suitcase with ease … For the cash we look at high end Miata’s at around 28K, Prowler’s faster & bigger, and easier to get into (suit & tie set). Camaro convertible?  Z-28 buyer types, $24,490 base MSRP price. Bowtie has more storage, more dealer resources, more means to make that sucker fly … hmm…. It’ll be slick, hope someone I know buys one so I can at least get a ride in it. -johnj

Response:

I’ve read some articles here about the Prowler and people are complaining because it only has a 250 hp V6…and an auto.  ok…I’ll go with the auto thing…that sux but it also leaves room for improvement. (i.e. adding a stick as an option later)  As for the V6, I beg to differ.  Power to weight ratio is what will give you that plastered to your seat feeling and the 250hp V6 is a good start.  As soon as an aftermarket company touches it the first thing they will do is add a couple of turbos or a super.  That will really waken things up!  We’ve been screaming for a while now for a RWD Chryco sports car…this is a start….  They probably had to use the V6 to make the car appeal to a larger crowd as alot of folks don’t like the lack of mileage from a V8…( I don’t care myself)  This is a shame for us who like the V8’s but someone will have a V8 Prowler in no time…guarrunteed. We really can’t knock it until we see what it will do..I don’t know about you but I haven’t seen a single test with numbers yet though….                                 Justin Applegate                                 1987 Shelby Charger GLHS #589                                 Small cubes high output does work!

Response:

: The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that : Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 : model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear : wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. I think the Prowler is a decent concept, but can you imagine how much those 20 inch rear wheels will cost to replace?  I’ve seen some ads for 20 inch tires and they run about 500 bucks each…pretty steep.

Response:

: The latest Motor Trend has a complete story on the Prowler. The : article is fairly detailed and it had a decent set of pics too. I can : see myself in one…. It also looks like performance may not be a quick as thought.  They say their target weight is about 2700 lbs.  Motor Trend also predicts that the 0-60 times will be the 7’s rather than in the 6’s.

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Why would : someone buy a cookie cutter street rod?

I don’t really consider it a street rod. It just happens to be a production car that looks like a street rod. Street rod is a term for a car produced before 1949. That makes the Prowler about 48 years too late. In additon I suspect it will be : rather expensive and appeal to a small group of people.

$35k is not too bad. I am considering either the Z3 or the Prowler in about 3 years when I am ready to purchase again.    I’m all for putting new, exciting cars out on the market, but I don’t like the Prowler.  Its a really neat idea/design/etc, but who wants a v6/auto street rod?  Posers and wannabes.

No. You’re wrong. It _is_ a really neat idea/design/etc. and that is why it will sell. If I want a car that is not supported by the factory warranty, has multiple parts from multiple manufacturers, and requires a lot of time and extra maintenance, I will buy/build a street rod. But the beauty of the Prowler is that you get the roadster/open fendered feeling without the headaches inherent to a car built in the manner most street rods are built in. I love street rods, and hope one day to own one. I just don’t have the time or money to spend building the rod I really want. But I do want a sports car that is fun AND is a looker. The Prowler and the Z3 fit that niche beautifully, with the Prowler leading the two, in light of its exclusivity.   Whats the point in having a street rod if you can’t plaster your internal organs all over the back of the seat when you give ‘er some gas?  And an automatic?  Strike two.  Chrysler, put away the toys and drop a real engine and tranny into that thing!!

 I beg to differ. I have seen plenty of street rods running sixes and even fours. They are still fun to drive, according to their owners. what would a buyer be interested in the Prowler for?  I can think of only a few reasons:    1 – Collectors item (possibly)  Potential investment?

Maybe the first year. After that they won’t be as much of a collector’s item. I would much rather spend the money on a different car, if I wanted one.    2 – The looks of the car (enter posers and wannabes)

I don’t consider myself either, but I love the looks of this car. I am an enthusiast, not a poseur. I just don’t have the time to maintain a non-factory vehicle at this time.    3 – Just because its so darn different

Bingo! You got the brass ring. It is different. Think about it: Three years from the beginning of production, there will only be about 13k of these cars produced. There is a lot of exclusivity there. Deuces are a dime a dozen at rod runs. Anybody can build a deuce from glass with enough money. But the Prowler is something noone has ever seen before.    Certainly not for the performance.  I dunno, maybe for some people the looks of a car+ are enough to validate its purchase.

I will insist on being allowed to drive the car first. If I don’t like the way it performs, I will go with the Z3, as I am sure I will like it. Looks are a major factor, but if I can’t live with the car on a daily basis, I don’t want it.   I can’t identify with that, because I just don’t get it…  If my car *looks* fast, it had better *be* fast.

Kinda like if my car looks like it has a convertible top, by God the top had better fold down and stow away.   (The Avenger, Ford Probe, [and I'm sure there are others] would fall into this same category… sheep in wolves clothing)

The Subaru XT6 is the same. Sporty crapmobile. The Prowler will be quite light and should handle very well. It doesn’t really matter how fast the car goes if it doesn’t hug the turns. I like the twisties, so my car had best be able to like them too. + – By "car", I really mean a sports/sporty type car, not your econobox or     land yachts…  If it doesn’t look fast, it doesn’t have to be fast,     though thats a nice bonus.  ;-)

I know. I drove down to Florida this weekend in a Lexus LS400. The police didn’t pay one bit of attention to me, though I was flying low the whole way. I saw plenty of sports cars pulled over. I kinda like the stealth approach to high-speed driving. Scott

Response:

: I think the Prowler has been an interesting and excellant concept car. : Chryslers design team has done a great job. Unfortunately I don’t think : putting the car into production is a good idea. With most street rodders : the purpose of building the car yourself is to be different. Why would : someone buy a cookie cutter street rod? In additon I suspect it will be : rather expensive and appeal to a small group of people.    I’m all for putting new, exciting cars out on the market, but I don’t like the Prowler.  Its a really neat idea/design/etc, but who wants a v6/auto street rod?  Posers and wannabes.  Whats the point in having a street rod if you can’t plaster your internal organs all over the back of the seat when you give ‘er some gas?  And an automatic?  Strike two.  Chrysler, put away the toys and drop a real engine and tranny into that thing!!    I don’t mean to offend anyone or start a flame war or anything, there have been many people who have voiced their support of the Prowler, but what would a buyer be interested in the Prowler for?  I can think of only a few reasons:      1 – Collectors item (possibly)  Potential investment?    2 – The looks of the car (enter posers and wannabes)    3 – Just because its so darn different    Certainly not for the performance.  I dunno, maybe for some people the looks of a car+ are enough to validate its purchase.  I can’t identify with that, because I just don’t get it…  If my car *looks* fast, it had better *be* fast.  (The Avenger, Ford Probe, [and I'm sure there are others] would fall into this same category… sheep in wolves clothing) + – By "car", I really mean a sports/sporty type car, not your econobox or     land yachts…  If it doesn’t look fast, it doesn’t have to be fast,     though thats a nice bonus.  ;-)                                               -Jon-  | Jon Steiger == DoD# 1038 == USUA# A46209 == NMA# 117376 == KotWitDoDFAQ |  |   ‘96 Dakota SLT V-8, ‘91 FZR600R    /* Just another mangy hacker */    |

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The latest Motor Trend has a complete story on the Prowler. The article is fairly detailed and it had a decent set of pics too. I can see myself in one…. Eric Winn

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I heard that only 5000 will be produced and the cost will be about 35,000. Power is to be a lowly V-6. I wonder how well it will handle snow or rain? Unless you have 35K to keep in garage, it’s not a very practical car. I’d rather keep my money in a bank or the market. It’s hoped that it will revive the Plymouth name and build dealer traffic. For 35K, a turnkey Cobra kit cars starts to look good. The latest Motor Trend has a complete story on the Prowler. The article is fairly detailed and it had a decent set of pics too. I can see myself in one…. Eric Winn

–                                           Bill Kolofa  ’92 ST1100        _____/ __   __/   ____/    ____/         /           /     /   /    /        Happiness is hitting 8K rpm,     ____  /  0   /  0  /   /  5 /         100+ mph and knowing you have            /      /     /   /    /          one more gear to go.   ______/     _/     _____    ____/        

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. 250 hp 3.5 or 214 hp? No manual? Weight?

Said they are trying for the increased (240-250hp), yes no manual only Auto-Stick Automatic Tranny, I’ve heard around 2500lbs. That would give quite a nice weight / hp ratio! Think it will be shown officially tomorrow to a group of press folk.

-Chris —         /         QQQ       Play Q-ZAR the "World’s Favorite Laser Tag Game"         QQQQQQQQ                                   QQQ      QQQ                        AT      QQQ      QQQ      Q-ZAR Springfield Mall (703) 313-0399       QQQ    QQQ            Q-Zar Manassas (703) 361-3469         QQQQQQQ                                  /            http://www.qzar.echo-sol.com

Response:

I think the Prowler has been an interesting and excellant concept car. Chryslers design team has done a great job. Unfortunately I don’t think putting the car into production is a good idea. With most street rodders the purpose of building the car yourself is to be different. Why would someone buy a cookie cutter street rod? In additon I suspect it will be rather expensive and appeal to a small group of people. Just my $.02

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. 250 hp 3.5 or 214 hp? No manual? Weight? Said they are trying for the increased (240-250hp), yes no manual only Auto-Stick Automatic Tranny, I’ve heard around 2500lbs. That would give quite a nice weight / hp ratio!

3.5L V-6 (same engine as the LHS) w/ Autostick The Prowler will be faster than the LHS because it will be 700 lbs. lighter. Rear-wheel drive. Dual air-bags, side guard door beams. said to cost in the mid $30s (U.S. dollars). Limited production first year to 3000 with 5000 as a top capacity. All first year cars will be "Prowler Purple" (no color choice) — Marc Konchinsky, 08-02-72 Chief Party Arranger for Great Times D.J. Entertainment (Reading, PA) Sales Consultant for Mente Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge (Kutztown, PA) ‘86 Dodge Caravan 4 cyl./stick-shift, w/75K & a tempermental Sony CD Player Macintosh Performa 636CD & a Newton MessagePad 100

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. -Chris —         /         QQQ       Play Q-ZAR the "World’s Favorite Laser Tag Game"         QQQQQQQQ                                   QQQ      QQQ                        AT      QQQ      QQQ      Q-ZAR Springfield Mall (703) 313-0399       QQQ    QQQ            Q-Zar Manassas (703) 361-3469         QQQQQQQ                                  /            http://www.qzar.echo-sol.com

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick.

250 hp 3.5 or 214 hp? No manual? Weight? Think it will be shown officially tomorrow to a group of press folk.

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. -Chris —         /         QQQ       Play Q-ZAR the "World’s Favorite Laser Tag Game"         QQQQQQQQ                                   QQQ      QQQ                        AT      QQQ      QQQ      Q-ZAR Springfield Mall (703) 313-0399       QQQ    QQQ            Q-Zar Manassas (703) 361-3469         QQQQQQQ                                  /            http://www.qzar.echo-sol.com

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick.

250 hp 3.5 or 214 hp? No manual? Weight? Think it will be shown officially tomorrow to a group of press folk.

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. 250 hp 3.5 or 214 hp? No manual? Weight?

Said they are trying for the increased (240-250hp), yes no manual only Auto-Stick Automatic Tranny, I’ve heard around 2500lbs. That would give quite a nice weight / hp ratio! Think it will be shown officially tomorrow to a group of press folk.

-Chris —         /         QQQ       Play Q-ZAR the "World’s Favorite Laser Tag Game"         QQQQQQQQ                                   QQQ      QQQ                        AT      QQQ      QQQ      Q-ZAR Springfield Mall (703) 313-0399       QQQ    QQQ            Q-Zar Manassas (703) 361-3469         QQQQQQQ                                  /            http://www.qzar.echo-sol.com

Response:

I think the Prowler has been an interesting and excellant concept car. Chryslers design team has done a great job. Unfortunately I don’t think putting the car into production is a good idea. With most street rodders the purpose of building the car yourself is to be different. Why would someone buy a cookie cutter street rod? In additon I suspect it will be rather expensive and appeal to a small group of people. Just my $.02

Response:

The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. 250 hp 3.5 or 214 hp? No manual? Weight? Said they are trying for the increased (240-250hp), yes no manual only Auto-Stick Automatic Tranny, I’ve heard around 2500lbs. That would give quite a nice weight / hp ratio!

3.5L V-6 (same engine as the LHS) w/ Autostick The Prowler will be faster than the LHS because it will be 700 lbs. lighter. Rear-wheel drive. Dual air-bags, side guard door beams. said to cost in the mid $30s (U.S. dollars). Limited production first year to 3000 with 5000 as a top capacity. All first year cars will be "Prowler Purple" (no color choice) — Marc Konchinsky, 08-02-72 Chief Party Arranger for Great Times D.J. Entertainment (Reading, PA) Sales Consultant for Mente Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge (Kutztown, PA) ‘86 Dodge Caravan 4 cyl./stick-shift, w/75K & a tempermental Sony CD Player Macintosh Performa 636CD & a Newton MessagePad 100

Response:

The latest Motor Trend has a complete story on the Prowler. The article is fairly detailed and it had a decent set of pics too. I can see myself in one…. Eric Winn

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I heard that only 5000 will be produced and the cost will be about 35,000. Power is to be a lowly V-6. I wonder how well it will handle snow or rain? Unless you have 35K to keep in garage, it’s not a very practical car. I’d rather keep my money in a bank or the market. It’s hoped that it will revive the Plymouth name and build dealer traffic. For 35K, a turnkey Cobra kit cars starts to look good. The latest Motor Trend has a complete story on the Prowler. The article is fairly detailed and it had a decent set of pics too. I can see myself in one…. Eric Winn

–                                           Bill Kolofa  ’92 ST1100        _____/ __   __/   ____/    ____/         /           /     /   /    /        Happiness is hitting 8K rpm,     ____  /  0   /  0  /   /  5 /         100+ mph and knowing you have            /      /     /   /    /          one more gear to go.   ______/     _/     _____    ____/        

Response:

: I think the Prowler has been an interesting and excellant concept car. : Chryslers design team has done a great job. Unfortunately I don’t think : putting the car into production is a good idea. With most street rodders : the purpose of building the car yourself is to be different. Why would : someone buy a cookie cutter street rod? In additon I suspect it will be : rather expensive and appeal to a small group of people.    I’m all for putting new, exciting cars out on the market, but I don’t like the Prowler.  Its a really neat idea/design/etc, but who wants a v6/auto street rod?  Posers and wannabes.  Whats the point in having a street rod if you can’t plaster your internal organs all over the back of the seat when you give ‘er some gas?  And an automatic?  Strike two.  Chrysler, put away the toys and drop a real engine and tranny into that thing!!    I don’t mean to offend anyone or start a flame war or anything, there have been many people who have voiced their support of the Prowler, but what would a buyer be interested in the Prowler for?  I can think of only a few reasons:      1 – Collectors item (possibly)  Potential investment?    2 – The looks of the car (enter posers and wannabes)    3 – Just because its so darn different    Certainly not for the performance.  I dunno, maybe for some people the looks of a car+ are enough to validate its purchase.  I can’t identify with that, because I just don’t get it…  If my car *looks* fast, it had better *be* fast.  (The Avenger, Ford Probe, [and I'm sure there are others] would fall into this same category… sheep in wolves clothing) + – By "car", I really mean a sports/sporty type car, not your econobox or     land yachts…  If it doesn’t look fast, it doesn’t have to be fast,     though thats a nice bonus.  ;-)                                               -Jon-  | Jon Steiger == DoD# 1038 == USUA# A46209 == NMA# 117376 == KotWitDoDFAQ |  |   ‘96 Dakota SLT V-8, ‘91 FZR600R    /* Just another mangy hacker */    |

Response:

: The latest Motor Trend has a complete story on the Prowler. The : article is fairly detailed and it had a decent set of pics too. I can : see myself in one…. It also looks like performance may not be a quick as thought.  They say their target weight is about 2700 lbs.  Motor Trend also predicts that the 0-60 times will be the 7’s rather than in the 6’s.

Response:

Why would : someone buy a cookie cutter street rod?

I don’t really consider it a street rod. It just happens to be a production car that looks like a street rod. Street rod is a term for a car produced before 1949. That makes the Prowler about 48 years too late. In additon I suspect it will be : rather expensive and appeal to a small group of people.

$35k is not too bad. I am considering either the Z3 or the Prowler in about 3 years when I am ready to purchase again.    I’m all for putting new, exciting cars out on the market, but I don’t like the Prowler.  Its a really neat idea/design/etc, but who wants a v6/auto street rod?  Posers and wannabes.

No. You’re wrong. It _is_ a really neat idea/design/etc. and that is why it will sell. If I want a car that is not supported by the factory warranty, has multiple parts from multiple manufacturers, and requires a lot of time and extra maintenance, I will buy/build a street rod. But the beauty of the Prowler is that you get the roadster/open fendered feeling without the headaches inherent to a car built in the manner most street rods are built in. I love street rods, and hope one day to own one. I just don’t have the time or money to spend building the rod I really want. But I do want a sports car that is fun AND is a looker. The Prowler and the Z3 fit that niche beautifully, with the Prowler leading the two, in light of its exclusivity.   Whats the point in having a street rod if you can’t plaster your internal organs all over the back of the seat when you give ‘er some gas?  And an automatic?  Strike two.  Chrysler, put away the toys and drop a real engine and tranny into that thing!!

 I beg to differ. I have seen plenty of street rods running sixes and even fours. They are still fun to drive, according to their owners. what would a buyer be interested in the Prowler for?  I can think of only a few reasons:    1 – Collectors item (possibly)  Potential investment?

Maybe the first year. After that they won’t be as much of a collector’s item. I would much rather spend the money on a different car, if I wanted one.    2 – The looks of the car (enter posers and wannabes)

I don’t consider myself either, but I love the looks of this car. I am an enthusiast, not a poseur. I just don’t have the time to maintain a non-factory vehicle at this time.    3 – Just because its so darn different

Bingo! You got the brass ring. It is different. Think about it: Three years from the beginning of production, there will only be about 13k of these cars produced. There is a lot of exclusivity there. Deuces are a dime a dozen at rod runs. Anybody can build a deuce from glass with enough money. But the Prowler is something noone has ever seen before.    Certainly not for the performance.  I dunno, maybe for some people the looks of a car+ are enough to validate its purchase.

I will insist on being allowed to drive the car first. If I don’t like the way it performs, I will go with the Z3, as I am sure I will like it. Looks are a major factor, but if I can’t live with the car on a daily basis, I don’t want it.   I can’t identify with that, because I just don’t get it…  If my car *looks* fast, it had better *be* fast.

Kinda like if my car looks like it has a convertible top, by God the top had better fold down and stow away.   (The Avenger, Ford Probe, [and I'm sure there are others] would fall into this same category… sheep in wolves clothing)

The Subaru XT6 is the same. Sporty crapmobile. The Prowler will be quite light and should handle very well. It doesn’t really matter how fast the car goes if it doesn’t hug the turns. I like the twisties, so my car had best be able to like them too. + – By "car", I really mean a sports/sporty type car, not your econobox or     land yachts…  If it doesn’t look fast, it doesn’t have to be fast,     though thats a nice bonus.  ;-)

I know. I drove down to Florida this weekend in a Lexus LS400. The police didn’t pay one bit of attention to me, though I was flying low the whole way. I saw plenty of sports cars pulled over. I kinda like the stealth approach to high-speed driving. Scott

Response:

: The current Car and Driver (Feb. ‘96, I think) has an article saying that : Chrysler has announced the Prowler will be produced.  In January as a ‘97 : model.  3000 the first year in Prowler Purple only.  Aluminum body, rear : wheel drive, dohc 3.5l six cylinder and Auto-Stick. I think the Prowler is a decent concept, but can you imagine how much those 20 inch rear wheels will cost to replace?  I’ve seen some ads for 20 inch tires and they run about 500 bucks each…pretty steep.

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[ ... ] revive the Plymouth name and build dealer traffic. For 35K, a turnkey Cobra kit cars starts to look good.

The kit car looks good — but that’s all you will have is a starter kit.  The thing will be a compromise in every direction and well, it won’t be anything like a real Cobra. But you won’t have to keep the Prowler in the garage.  It’ll have it all, distinct street rod looks (haven’t seen one in person for a while, but this is a very good look), and a roof (two actually), windows that roll up and down, and a/c, and a nice radio, and good power, and a warranty, won’t rust.  Sure it has a 6, so what?  An automatic?  Gimme a break, it’s basically a slap stick what any rodder puts on their automatics anyway.  And it’ll have a warranty. Hopefully it’ll handle great and be pretty fast.  That should eat up Vette sales – them things are way to hard to see out of and get into (but they are fully outrageous fun).  But like a vette, storage space will be quite a bit on the *none* side.  Hopefully it’ll take two golf bags and a big suitcase with ease … For the cash we look at high end Miata’s at around 28K, Prowler’s faster & bigger, and easier to get into (suit & tie set). Camaro convertible?  Z-28 buyer types, $24,490 base MSRP price. Bowtie has more storage, more dealer resources, more means to make that sucker fly … hmm…. It’ll be slick, hope someone I know buys one so I can at least get a ride in it. -johnj

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I’ve read some articles here about the Prowler and people are complaining because it only has a 250 hp V6…and an auto.  ok…I’ll go with the auto thing…that sux but it also leaves room for improvement. (i.e. adding a stick as an option later)  As for the V6, I beg to differ.  Power to weight ratio is what will give you that plastered to your seat feeling and the 250hp V6 is a good start.  As soon as an aftermarket company touches it the first thing they will do is add a couple of turbos or a super.  That will really waken things up!  We’ve been screaming for a while now for a RWD Chryco sports car…this is a start….  They probably had to use the V6 to make the car appeal to a larger crowd as alot of folks don’t like the lack of mileage from a V8…( I don’t care myself)  This is a shame for us who like the V8’s but someone will have a V8 Prowler in no time…guarrunteed. We really can’t knock it until we see what it will do..I don’t know about you but I haven’t seen a single test with numbers yet though….                                 Justin Applegate                                 1987 Shelby Charger GLHS #589                                 Small cubes high output does work!

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