DRL question

Question:

Assuming it’s daylight, the behavior is not normal.  The DRL should come  on when releasing the parking brake…not the regular lights.  On some  vehicles the car needs to be in gear as well. Just wondering if you might be doing this in a garage (dark).

Nope.  Outside.  Sunny day.  I found the sensor…gonna try to clean it in case it’s dirty and thinks it’s dark out.  Odd that it only mis-behaves when I start it with the e-brake engaged.  Almost sounds like the module might have a problem.  Any ideas where that’s hidden?

Response:

   

The mentality of a BMW driver?

Question:

Thought you might appreciate this (shamelessly copied & pasted from an e-mail I just got sent): The other day I was cruising along as usual in my BMW coming onto one of my motorways, which was very busy with inferior cars. First off, I couldn’t believe that the volume of traffic DIDN’T slow down for me AT ALL as I came off the slip road! I had to squeeze into a barely big enough gap between two cars in order to get onto my motorway! (The driver of the car behind me did realise his mistake though and honked an apology to me with a long blast of his horn.) Unbelievably, I had to do the same again before I could get to the BMW lane. (Why do underlings use his lane? Surely everyone knows it is for BMW drivers only?) Anyway, once I was in the BMW lane and posing along at 110mph enjoying the adulation that the inferior car drivers were giving me, I noticed an inferior car ahead of me which was not only in the BMW lane of my motorway, but was driving at a ridiculous 70 mph! Naturally, I got to within a foot or so of his rear bumper and flashed my headlights to remind him he shouldn’t be in the BMW lane of my motorway and to get out of my way. Of course, once he realised it was a BMW behind him, he did just that, but I could hardly believe it when he pulled straight back out behind me! He also tried to keep up with me and when he realised I would out- run him, he put on some blue lights in his front grill and urged me to get onto the hard shoulder so that he could congratulate me on my excellent car. Needless to say, I was eager oblige and when we had stopped, the man gave me a piece of paper confirming what I already knew – that my car goes fast! Apparently he wants everyone to know what a superior car I have, so I had to take my driver’s licence to a Police Station to be sent away to have some points put on! (They’re not free points either – they’re

Who Has The Record for Miles?

Question:

I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original. My local private (that is, non-dealer) Honda shop says they have a customer with a Honda having over 400k miles on it. Dunno the year, but I think they said it was the original engine.

My 1994 Civic DX has 152,000 miles, with only the following replaced: all brake pads (a few times), front discs once, clutch master cylinder (was a preventative, it didn’t go bad, just looked like it might, that was at 151k), three new CV axles, and a water pump with the timing belt at 92k. So, all things considered, I would say 152k with ZERO mechanical failures is a pretty good car. Nate

Response:

Drove my 95 accord V6 225,000 miles with few repairs:  The brake master cylinder at 175,000 and the A/C compressor under warranty. Both radiator fan and A/C fans ultimately wore out (about 180,000) due to Dallas TX heat requiring 9 mos+ A/C use. Maintenance (timing belt plus belts and water pump at 90k and 180k) and wear items (brake pads, tires).  Oil every 3500 miles.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original. It’s no record, but I have a 1988 Integra with 301,000 miles on it. Original engine, but LOTS of things have been fixed over the years. I drove it to work today (my BMW is in the shop). By the way, my biggest problems have been with aftermarket parts. The original alternator went 177,000 miles, but I’ve been through maybe five replacement alternators. The original distributor seized at 273,000, and I think I’ve had two replacement distributors fail (electrically, not seize) since then. Interestingly, the starter is original, as are the rear brake rotors. Fifth gear needed replacement at just under 200,000 miles, but it still shifts like a dream, much better than most new cars. // Gary

Response:

I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original. My local private (that is, non-dealer) Honda shop says they have a customer with a Honda having over 400k miles on it. Dunno the year, but I think they said it was the original engine.

Response:

I have a 1989 Acura Legend Coupe with 406,000 (I don’t drive it right now…. it’s limping) on the original engine.  It has had a valve job though.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original. My local private (that is, non-dealer) Honda shop says they have a customer with a Honda having over 400k miles on it. Dunno the year, but I think they said it was the original engine.

Response:

I have a 1989 Acura Legend Coupe with 406,000 (I don’t drive it right now…. it’s limping) on the original engine.  It has had a valve job though.

Man, that’s a great car.  I always loved the way the first-generation Legend coupes drove.  I think it’s one of the best-handling front-wheel-drive cars ever.  Still looks good today, too. — http://hiwaay.net/~williams/

Response:

Saw a 94 Accord a dealer in Woodbridge Va, that had 1.1 million on it as of last year.  They bought the car and gave him a Acura. One of the service people said it had 11 timing belts.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original. My local private (that is, non-dealer) Honda shop says they have a customer with a Honda having over 400k miles on it. Dunno the year, but I think they said it was the original engine.

Response:

Saw a 94 Accord a dealer in Woodbridge Va, that had 1.1 million on it as of last year.  They bought the car and gave him a Acura. One of the service people said it had 11 timing belts.

Is it still on display as it was said to be? Strange that there aren’t many stories around the internet about this car, unlike all the hits you get by putting "irv gordon volvo" in a search engine.  I did once see a newspaper columnist’s column about this car (on-line version of some paper in the area where the car is), but it seems to no longer be available. — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.

Response:

98 EX V6 170K, Jerry…..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original. My local private (that is, non-dealer) Honda shop says they have a customer with a Honda having over 400k miles on it. Dunno the year, but I think they said it was the original engine.

Response:

‘92 Civic VX, 184k, needs a fuel pump and a clutch but engine is still original.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 98 EX V6 170K, Jerry….. I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original. My local private (that is, non-dealer) Honda shop says they have a customer with a Honda having over 400k miles on it. Dunno the year, but I think they said it was the original engine.

Response:

I would love to see what the greatest mileage is that someone has got out of their Honda. Please post the year, model, the miles, and whether the engine is original.

It’s no record, but I have a 1988 Integra with 301,000 miles on it. Original engine, but LOTS of things have been fixed over the years. I drove it to work today (my BMW is in the shop). By the way, my biggest problems have been with aftermarket parts. The original alternator went 177,000 miles, but I’ve been through maybe five replacement alternators. The original distributor seized at 273,000, and I think I’ve had two replacement distributors fail (electrically, not seize) since then. Interestingly, the starter is original, as are the rear brake rotors. Fifth gear needed replacement at just under 200,000 miles, but it still shifts like a dream, much better than most new cars. // Gary

Response:

Used Preludes

Question:

Hi, I do not know much about cars, but I have been in a Prelude fetish as of late.  Unfortunately I know that Honda stopped making Preludes after last year, so I have to hunt and scout for a used 5th generation Prelude.  I was wondering what people’s general impressions are about this car, and if it’s dependable. I’m trying to do some research since I know I will have to buy it used. Oh and I’ll be driving up and down California frequently, so I’ll be packing miles into this car. Thanks! -Lewis

Response:

I have an 01 with about 18k miles on it — no problems at all.  From I have read the cars are very reliable.  I have heard that the sport shift automatic can have problems, so the 5 speed is probably the way to go.  I have found from reading the posts on this group that the 5th gen engine is prone to burning or using oil, particularly when pushed a lot into the VTEC — 5500 rpm and beyond.  Mine used oil when new, but after breaking it in — around 10k miles — its oil consumption dropped to about a qt every oil change or 3700 miles. I love the car — it loves to rev and handles extremely well.  Putting my experience into the context of two Vettes owned in the late 60s, and early 70s, a 64 XKE , a Sunbeam Tiger, a Datsun 280Z –64 MBG, 62 TR4 etc etc. and other sports cars, the Prelude is about at the top of the heap.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I do not know much about cars, but I have been in a Prelude fetish as of late.  Unfortunately I know that Honda stopped making Preludes after last year, so I have to hunt and scout for a used 5th generation Prelude.  I was wondering what people’s general impressions are about this car, and if it’s dependable. I’m trying to do some research since I know I will have to buy it used. Oh and I’ll be driving up and down California frequently, so I’ll be packing miles into this car. Thanks! -Lewis

Response:

If you believe Consumer Reports, last I read they rated it one of the most reliable ’sports cars’ (their label – not necessarily mine) EVER produced. I have a 2000 Prelude SH, and were it to not be in my posession tomorrow, I would immediately start looking for another.  It is completely practical, but yet is so much fun to drive. jp Visit the last oasis of sanity in Cyberspace: www.sanitypage.scom

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I do not know much about cars, but I have been in a Prelude fetish as of late.  Unfortunately I know that Honda stopped making Preludes after last year, so I have to hunt and scout for a used 5th generation Prelude.  I was wondering what people’s general impressions are about this car, and if it’s dependable. I’m trying to do some research since I know I will have to buy it used. Oh and I’ll be driving up and down California frequently, so I’ll be packing miles into this car. Thanks! -Lewis

Response:

OT: Christmas Gifts for men

Question:

– …

: : :Christmas Gifts for men : : : :Christmas is just around the corner so here are some gift ideas : :for those special men in your life! : : Just wanted to add Sanitary pads as stocking stuffers for the men that you : love :) Multi uses….ranging from polishing tools, buffing a motor cycle or : adding some "padding" to look more well endowed down there :) And if all else fails, use them as ear muffs, the sticky center : : : Jackie : ~*~Much that I sought, I could not find; : Much that I found, I could not keep; : Much that I kept, I could not free; : Much that I freed, returned to me~*~ : : ~Lord Byron~ :

Response:

:Christmas Gifts for men : :Christmas is just around the corner so here are some gift ideas :for those special men in your life! Just wanted to add Sanitary pads as stocking stuffers for the men that you love :) Multi uses….ranging from polishing tools, buffing a motor cycle or adding some "padding" to look more well endowed down there :) Jackie ~*~Much that I sought, I could not find;   Much that I found, I could not keep;   Much that I kept, I could not free;   Much that I freed, returned to me~*~ ~Lord Byron~

Response:

:And if all else fails, use them as ear muffs, the sticky center Cool :)  Tampons could be used as ear plugs, no? :P Jackie ~*~Much that I sought, I could not find;   Much that I found, I could not keep;   Much that I kept, I could not free;   Much that I freed, returned to me~*~ ~Lord Byron~

Response:

:And if all else fails, use them as ear muffs, the sticky center Cool :)  Tampons could be used as ear plugs, no? :P

Of course.  What else would anyone do with them? Tono

Response:

Well they can come in useful if you have a runny nose; Meryl

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – :And if all else fails, use them as ear muffs, the sticky center Cool :)  Tampons could be used as ear plugs, no? :P Of course.  What else would anyone do with them? Tono

Response:

And this way that could wear their socks on their feet, instead of using them as padding. Meryl

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – adding some "padding" to look more well endowed down there :) Jackie ~*~Much that I sought, I could not find; Much that I found, I could not keep; Much that I kept, I could not free; Much that I freed, returned to me~*~ ~Lord Byron~

Response:

Christmas Gifts for men Christmas is just around the corner so here are some gift ideas for those special men in your life! Buying gifts for men is not nearly as complicated as it is for women.  Follow these rules and you should have no problems. Rule #1: When in doubt – buy him a cordless drill.  It does not matter if he already has one.  I have a friend who owns 17 and he has yet to complain. As a man, you can never have too many cordless drills.  No one knows why. Rule #2: If you cannot afford a cordless drill, buy him anything with the word ratchet or socket in it.  Men love saying those two words. "Hey George, can I borrow your ratchet?"  "OK. Bye-the-way, are you through with my 3/8-inch socket yet?" Again, no one knows why. Rule #3: If you are really, really broke, buy him anything for his car. A 99-cent ice scraper, a small bottle of deicer or something to hang from his rear view mirror.  Men love gifts for their cars. No one knows why. Rule #4: Do not buy men socks.  Do not buy men ties.  And never buy men bathrobes. I was told that if God had wanted men to wear bathrobes, he wouldn’t have invented Jockey shorts. Rule #5: You can buy men new remote controls to replace the ones they have worn out.  If you have a lot of money buy your man a big- screen TV with the little picture in the corner.  Watch him go wild as he flips, and flips, and flips. Rule #6: Do not buy a man any of those fancy liqueurs.  If you do, it will sit in a cupboard for 23 years.  Real men drink whiskey or beer. Rule #7: Do not buy any man industrial-sized canisters of after shave or deodorant. I’m told they do not stink – they are earthy. Rule #8: Buy men label makers.  Almost as good as cordless drills. Within a couple of weeks there will be labels absolutely everywhere. "Socks.  Shorts. Cups. Saucers.  Door.  Lock.  Sink."  You get the idea.  No one knows why. Rule #9: Never buy a man anything that says "some assembly required" on the box.  It will ruin his Special Day and he will always have parts left over. Rule #10: Good places to shop for men include Northwest Iron Works, Parr Lumber, Home Depot, John Deere, Valley RV Center, and Les Schwab Tire.  (NAPA Auto Parts and Sear’s Clearance Centers are also excellent men’s stores.  It doesn’t matter if he doesn’t know what it is.  "From NAPA Auto, eh?  Must be something I need. Hey!  Isn’t this a starter for a ‘68 Ford Fairlane?  Wow! Thanks.") Rule #11: Men enjoy danger.  That’s why they never cook – but they will barbecue. Get him a monster barbecue with a 100-pound propane tank. Tell him the gas line leaks. "Oh the thrill!  The challenge!  Who wants a hamburger?" Rule #12: Tickets to a football game are a smart gift.  However, he will not appreciate tickets to "A Retrospective of 19th Century Quilts."  Everyone knows why. Rule #13: Men love chainsaws.  Never, ever, buy a man you love a chainsaw. If you don’t know why – please refer to Rule #8 and what happens when he gets a label maker. Rule #14: It’s hard to beat a really good wheelbarrow or an aluminum extension ladder.  Never buy a real man a step ladder.  It must be an extension ladder.  No one knows why. Rule #15: Rope.  Men love rope.  It takes us back to our cowboy origins, or at least The Boy Scouts.  Nothing says love like a hundred feet of 3/8" manilla rope. No one knows why.

Response:

Would you buy this car? – Advice request.

Question:

Thank you all for your advice.  I’m still haven’t quite decided what to do, but you’ve given me food for thought. Thanks, Kylie

Response:

Hi kylie, I drive a 1975 BMW 3.0S which is basically a 3 litre version of the 2500. I love it. We know ours has a head gasket problem. Lots of steam comes out the exhaust on cold starts.  Mechanic can verify using their special chemical check on the radiator.  Cost for head gasket job on this car is about $1500. Get it checked before you buy. Obviously it will be a bit expensive to repair if things go wrong, that figure for the brakes sounds about right coz the same thing happened to ours. Make sure you get the car checked out by 2 different mechanics, preferably BMW specialists as they will know what to look for in that car. The reason i suggest 2 different mechanics is that then you will have a better base to work from when deciding. If you go to one, they may say the car is fine, knowing it will have problems, hoping you will take it to them for repairs. Lovely cars.  Definitely look at something else too just so you can compare things like power, comfort, and price. Good luck.

Response:

I own a 72 2002 and love it, while my friends need to take their car to get repaired because of the new computerized fix by diagnostic test machines only, I for the most part can do it my self. I  also have rarely had to fix any thing other than standard up keep, I think 2002’s are still great cars. — Sal Chavez Pegasus Sports International http://www.skatingaccessories.com http://www.bladeboots.com http://www.skatesails.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Kyle,   Old high performance cars, ESPECIALLY old FOREIGN high performance cars, remind me of the movie "The Monry Pit". Just like that house, they have charm and class, but you have to know going in that  - – - !) Maintenance will be a royal headache. Getting repair parts will be difficult, and the prices of them will make your heart stop! 2) Do NOT rely on your old high performance car as your "daily driver". Think of it more as a weekend warrior. To answer your question directly, NO, I would not buy that car. Yes, BMWs of that era where some of the neatest cars BMW has ever produced (I still drool uncontrollably when I see a Bavaria), but time is not kind to those cars unless they are maintained in the way BMW expected them to be maintained. Regards,   Bill Bowen   Daly City, CA Newbie here. I’m only here to ask for advice from you knowledgable car people, so if this post or the crosspost violates any auto group ettiquette, I apologise in advance. I need to sell my car, as I don’t have the time or money to look after it properly, so I want to get something cheap that I can look after more easily (not to mention insure more cheaply) before I ruin this one.  The thing is, the guy who sold me my car was having trouble selling it (yes, that should have been a warning to me, and I’ve learnt the lesson), so I’m wondering how easy it will be for me to get rid of it.  It is quite a good car. So here it is:  It’s a 1973 BMW 2500, cream in colour.  It’s in pretty good condition, especially considering its age.  The body is in excellent condition and has only gotten a couple of tiny rust spots since I got it, as I have no undercover parking.  It runs very well, although it takes a while to warm up on cold days, but I think that’s normal for older cars.  It cost me A$2,650 (marked down from $3,500) and I’ve spent about $1,500 getting the radiator fixed and various pipes and hoses replaced.  The mechanic said the brake booster/cylinder/calipers would need replacing at some stage and quoted about $1,200 for that, but that was an expensive BMW-only mechanic, so maybe less. So.  Would you buy this car, and if so, what would you expect to pay for it?  I’d appreciate knowing where you’re from (I’m in Melbourne, Australia) so I can make the necessary currency adjustments. Thanks in advance, Kylie

Response:

Kyle,   Old high performance cars, ESPECIALLY old FOREIGN high performance cars, remind me of the movie "The Monry Pit". Just like that house, they have charm and class, but you have to know going in that  - – - !) Maintenance will be a royal headache. Getting repair parts will be difficult, and the prices of them will make your heart stop! 2) Do NOT rely on your old high performance car as your "daily driver". Think of it more as a weekend warrior. To answer your question directly, NO, I would not buy that car. Yes, BMWs of that era where some of the neatest cars BMW has ever produced (I still drool uncontrollably when I see a Bavaria), but time is not kind to those cars unless they are maintained in the way BMW expected them to be maintained. Regards,   Bill Bowen   Daly City, CA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newbie here. I’m only here to ask for advice from you knowledgable car people, so if this post or the crosspost violates any auto group ettiquette, I apologise in advance. I need to sell my car, as I don’t have the time or money to look after it properly, so I want to get something cheap that I can look after more easily (not to mention insure more cheaply) before I ruin this one.  The thing is, the guy who sold me my car was having trouble selling it (yes, that should have been a warning to me, and I’ve learnt the lesson), so I’m wondering how easy it will be for me to get rid of it.  It is quite a good car. So here it is:  It’s a 1973 BMW 2500, cream in colour.  It’s in pretty good condition, especially considering its age.  The body is in excellent condition and has only gotten a couple of tiny rust spots since I got it, as I have no undercover parking.  It runs very well, although it takes a while to warm up on cold days, but I think that’s normal for older cars.  It cost me A$2,650 (marked down from $3,500) and I’ve spent about $1,500 getting the radiator fixed and various pipes and hoses replaced.  The mechanic said the brake booster/cylinder/calipers would need replacing at some stage and quoted about $1,200 for that, but that was an expensive BMW-only mechanic, so maybe less. So.  Would you buy this car, and if so, what would you expect to pay for it?  I’d appreciate knowing where you’re from (I’m in Melbourne, Australia) so I can make the necessary currency adjustments. Thanks in advance, Kylie

Response:

Would you care to eloborate?

I apologise firstly for insulting you. I did not mean it to insult you personally. Your choice of car is up to you. Individual as opinions is it not? I have driven this car – I felt it drove like a 30 year old car. Ok the chassis was fairly entertaining but then so was the handling vices. I could elaborate but why bother? We’re talking selling the thing aren’t we? With the price of maintaining this car made plain by it’s owner (a friend), it is my opinion that you would have to be an enthusaist to own one. Fair enough? ‘Idiot enthusiast’? (poor and wrong choice of words admittedly). ‘Sucker’ is also a poorly chosen word which why I use the inverted commas. You did read her entire post I gather? Please read it again. At best the purchase of this car was not an altogether thought out move IMO. But so what? The money gone is not a huge amount and first cars are often not the best (or incredibly life changing) decisions. Live and learn. A sensible and practicle Toyota Camry? Holden Commodore?

Whatever car I drive or you drive or what she should have bought is inconsequential. The fact is that she has a 27 y.o. BMW she wants rid of. What she buys next or what she should have is idle speculation. Why try to tell her what she should have bought? I think I gave her some suggestion of price and some factors that may affect this – which is what she asked for. If I was brusque I apologise. Maybe you think this car is worth much more than her buying price to an enthusiast? I don’t beleive so. If you do you may wish argue that point. Perhaps you can convince her to buy your sensible and practicle Toyota

Camry off you??? Whatever – I not selling anything and I never made recommendations because she never asked for one. This is your tangent. Whether she appreciates it or reads it I could care less – this is Usenet. It could go to /dev/null and ‘Sascha’ or ‘Kylie’ could have never existed as far as I’m concerned. I realise that my post has a certain ‘tone’ but however you interpret that (sarcasm or rudeness etc.) is up to you and I make no apologies for that. T.

Response:

    Kylie, its really in the eye of the beholder with this sort of car. One person would love to buy it, purely because they love BMWs and  this one is presumably at the lower end price wise.     Others who may have limited funds would also look at it and worry about repair prices due its age, despite its reasonable condition.     Best bet would be someone who is a BMW enthusiast, has money (for future repairs), and due to its good condition, would buy it.     I’m sure someone would buy the car eventually. I’d place it in the Trading Post, with enough money to cover any repairs, but with a view to drop the price if you need to.     James

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newbie here. I’m only here to ask for advice from you knowledgable car people, so if this post or the crosspost violates any auto group ettiquette, I apologise in advance. I need to sell my car, as I don’t have the time or money to look after it properly, so I want to get something cheap that I can look after more easily (not to mention insure more cheaply) before I ruin this one.  The thing is, the guy who sold me my car was having trouble selling it (yes, that should have been a warning to me, and I’ve learnt the lesson), so I’m wondering how easy it will be for me to get rid of it.  It is quite a good car. So here it is:  It’s a 1973 BMW 2500, cream in colour.  It’s in pretty good condition, especially considering its age.  The body is in excellent condition and has only gotten a couple of tiny rust spots since I got it, as I have no undercover parking.  It runs very well, although it takes a while to warm up on cold days, but I think that’s normal for older cars.  It cost me A$2,650 (marked down from $3,500) and I’ve spent about $1,500 getting the radiator fixed and various pipes and hoses replaced.  The mechanic said the brake booster/cylinder/calipers would need replacing at some stage and quoted about $1,200 for that, but that was an expensive BMW-only mechanic, so maybe less. So.  Would you buy this car, and if so, what would you expect to pay for it?  I’d appreciate knowing where you’re from (I’m in Melbourne, Australia) so I can make the necessary currency adjustments. Thanks in advance, Kylie

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’m wondering how easy it will be for me to get rid of it. That’s the problem. You’re selling an old, quite hard to insure and maintain car that you don’t want and anybody with some sense of practicality would avoid. I’m a terribly sensible chap, I check how much a car costs to run and insure before I buy it. Rare in this n/g but there you are. Is this an enthusiast type car? Like a BMW 2002? There are many idiots with rose coloured glasses who would buy something like this. I would try to sell it for $2,500 and see what you can get. Anywhere from $1,500-2,000 would be fairly acceptable if it was clear that you don’t want it. See some people couldn’t care less if they sold or not and they pick and choose the seller – that’s not you unfortunately. You could sorta take less – up to you but the car was clearly worth little when you bought it so basically get as much back as you can. I’m in Sydney so $1 = $1. Does it have decent rego? Like to the end of the year? That helps. It’s almost impossible to sell an unregistered car so thing about the time scale. Does it have some sort of service records for the 27 years it’s been alive? (I’m 27 btw!) You’re so polite that I couldn’t help but respond and sympathise. But face reality, this is an fairly expensive lesson. You’ll probably need to just get whatever money you can out of it. You need to find a BMW enthusiast or another person like yourself (I hesitate to say ’sucker’ but life is tough).

Firstly, I am keen to find out why you have classified BMW 2002 enthusiasts as "idiots". As a past and present owner and enthusiast of the 2002 model I am quite insulted. Would you care to eloborate? Does your experience with this car indicate that they are a car for idiots? I would also like you to tell me what type of car I should be enthusiastic about, so in future I can avoid being classiffied as an idiot with rose coloured glasses. Secondly, you call Kylie a "sucker’ for buying this particular BMW. Why? Perhaps she liked this particular car? And why is your choice of car any more valid than her’s? Ah yes, I see, it’s because you are a sensible and practicle chap, unlike (and regulars on the aus.cars newsgroup take note!) most other people on this newsgroup. Well tell us Mr. Sensible & practicle, what type of car would you hgave recommended she bought? A sensible and practicle Toyota Camry? Holden Commodore? But then it would have to be an old Camry or Commodore, because losing $5-6k a year in depreciation on a new car wouldn’t be very practicle and sensible, would it? Thridly, you do not seem to actually know anything about the particular car she is selling, yet you are willing to make judgements on its value. On what basis? I am sure Kylie, the sucker that she is, appreciates your sympathy. Perhaps you can convince her to buy your sensible and practicle Toyota Camry off you??? Sasha – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -T.

Response:

Newbie here. I’m only here to ask for advice from you knowledgable car people, so if this post or the crosspost violates any auto group ettiquette, I apologise in advance. I need to sell my car, as I don’t have the time or money to look after it properly, so I want to get something cheap that I can look after more easily (not to mention insure more cheaply) before I ruin this one.  The thing is, the guy who sold me my car was having trouble selling it (yes, that should have been a warning to me, and I’ve learnt the lesson), so I’m wondering how easy it will be for me to get rid of it.  It is quite a good car. So here it is:  It’s a 1973 BMW 2500, cream in colour.  It’s in pretty good condition, especially considering its age.  The body is in excellent condition and has only gotten a couple of tiny rust spots since I got it, as I have no undercover parking.  It runs very well, although it takes a while to warm up on cold days, but I think that’s normal for older cars.  It cost me A$2,650 (marked down from $3,500) and I’ve spent about $1,500 getting the radiator fixed and various pipes and hoses replaced.  The mechanic said the brake booster/cylinder/calipers would need replacing at some stage and quoted about $1,200 for that, but that was an expensive BMW-only mechanic, so maybe less. So.  Would you buy this car, and if so, what would you expect to pay for it?  I’d appreciate knowing where you’re from (I’m in Melbourne, Australia) so I can make the necessary currency adjustments. Thanks in advance, Kylie

Response:

I’m wondering how easy it will be for me to get rid of it.

That’s the problem. You’re selling an old, quite hard to insure and maintain car that you don’t want and anybody with some sense of practicality would avoid. I’m a terribly sensible chap, I check how much a car costs to run and insure before I buy it. Rare in this n/g but there you are. Is this an enthusiast type car? Like a BMW 2002? There are many idiots with rose coloured glasses who would buy something like this. I would try to sell it for $2,500 and see what you can get. Anywhere from $1,500-2,000 would be fairly acceptable if it was clear that you don’t want it. See some people couldn’t care less if they sold or not and they pick and choose the seller – that’s not you unfortunately. You could sorta take less – up to you but the car was clearly worth little when you bought it so basically get as much back as you can. I’m in Sydney so $1 = $1. Does it have decent rego? Like to the end of the year? That helps. It’s almost impossible to sell an unregistered car so thing about the time scale. Does it have some sort of service records for the 27 years it’s been alive? (I’m 27 btw!) You’re so polite that I couldn’t help but respond and sympathise. But face reality, this is an fairly expensive lesson. You’ll probably need to just get whatever money you can out of it. You need to find a BMW enthusiast or another person like yourself (I hesitate to say ’sucker’ but life is tough). T.

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Speedo Works, But Odo Doesn't?

Question:

Anyone have any idea why the odometer in my ‘86 528e would stop working, yet at the same time the speedometer works just fine?  I know one of the things to check is the speed sender at the differential, but if the speedometer is working, this wouldn’t seem to be at fault, right?  .In addition, all OBC functions that need to know about distance traveled (such as the RANGE function, and AVG MPH) are not working, nor is the MPG gauge.  I suspect these problems are all related.   Anyone ever run across something like this? Ideas of things to check?  BTW – all other functions in the instrument panel (tach, fuel gauge, temp gauge) are all working fine.  Consequently I suspect this has nothing to do with batteries on the SI board (a common source of problems with instruments in these cars).

Yup, it’s a VDO speedometer and the little plastic gear that inside that drives the odo is slipping. In severe cases the gear will split. Best fix is to have a speedo shop install a new little gear, but if it’s not split, some people have had success with a drop of superglue… (Proceed at your own risk, no warranty implied.) — Arne Berglund Reply to: arne(at)rio(dot)com 1981 323i 1992 K75RT The BMW E21 GrayMarket Web Site http://www.rio.com/~arne/e21gmr.html Think Different — Made With Macintosh

Response:

Anyone have any idea why the odometer in my ‘86 528e would stop working, yet at the same time the speedometer works just fine?  I know one of the things to check is the speed sender at the differential, but if the speedometer is working, this wouldn’t seem to be at fault, right?  .In addition, all OBC functions that need to know about distance traveled (such as the RANGE function, and AVG MPH) are not working, nor is the MPG gauge.  I suspect these problems are all related.   Anyone ever run across something like this? Ideas of things to check?  BTW – all other functions in the instrument panel (tach, fuel gauge, temp gauge) are all working fine.  Consequently I suspect this has nothing to do with batteries on the SI board (a common source of problems with instruments in these cars). -Chip — (For e-mail, remove "NOSPAM" from return address)

Response:

3.2 CL Coupe

Question:

Is there any chance that Acura will put the new 3.2 engine and navigation system form the 1999 TL in the next CL to differentiate it form the Accord? According to Automobile Magazine, no.  They said no major plans for Acura in 1999 outside of the TL and minor changes to the RL. Wouldn’t a 3.2CL with the Tiptronic be sweet though!

YM 3.2TL with Tiptronic? – Scott — Sig-less Joe

Response:

ts almost like when everything Chrysler sold was basically a K-Car.<BR

As far as I’m concerned, Chrysler is still selling every one of their cars based off an old k-car chassis. Their vehicles hold up for about 3 years and then they fall to pieces. Terrible

Response:

Is there any chance that Acura will put the new 3.2 engine and navigation system form the 1999 TL in the next CL to differentiate it form the Accord?

According to Automobile Magazine, no.  They said no major plans for Acura in 1999 outside of the TL and minor changes to the RL. Wouldn’t a 3.2CL with the Tiptronic be sweet though! Dave

Response:

My question is what are they gonna do to differentiate it from a CL?  How much extra for two more doors?  The Accord coupe and sedan, the CL and the TL all based on the same platform?  I think Honda is stretching it a bit! Its almost like when everything Chrysler sold was basically a K-Car. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is there any chance that Acura will put the new 3.2 engine and navigation system form the 1999 TL in the next CL to differentiate it form the Accord?

Response:

Is there any chance that Acura will put the new 3.2 engine and navigation system form the 1999 TL in the next CL to differentiate it form the Accord?

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semi-trailing arm vs multilink suspension

Question:

I have read that the new m roadster and m coupe will have the semi-trailing arm rear suspension as opposed to the multilink setup in the current m3 series. Can anyone tell me what real difference this will make and why you think the motorsport division chose to take a step backward to an antiquated design?

Response:

brazenly asserted: I have read that the new m roadster and m coupe will have the semi-trailing arm rear suspension as opposed to the multilink setup in the current m3 series. Can anyone tell me what real difference this will make and why you think the motorsport division chose to take a step backward to an antiquated design?

So basically, you’re saying that all previous generation BMW’s have antiquated suspensions? Seriously, it was probably used in these cars because 1) it fit, 2) it’s probably cheaper, and 3) these are not intended to be entered in competition as the M3 and other sedans were, so the suspension design is less critical. C.R. Krieger "Ignore ‘em, m’dear; they’re beneath your dignity." – W.C. Fields Reply to warp1 at lakefield dot net

Response:

Weight savings and lower cost, both in terms of production and sticker price, are the reasons BMW AG gave for using the trailing arm rear suspension instead of the newer multi link design. The "straight" automotive press has been testing BMW’s with trailing arms for 34 years, and calling them the best thing since beer in a bottle.  The fact that BMW has come out with a new rear suspension design does not mean there is anything wrong with trailing arms.   It is unfortunate that some mags have seized upon BMW’s use of trailing arms for some new models because now people read these articles and think there’s something wrong with the car.  It ain’t so. Mike Miller

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98 LH Launch Delay??

Question:

In a recent response to a question about the availability of the new LH cars, I posted a reply that they should start showing up at dealerships soon.  This statement may have been premature.  I heard Thursday that production has been halted, due to a potential problem with the aluminum engine blocks for both new engines.  Has anyone else heard this?  Any details on the potential problem with the blocks?  Please post.

Response:

In a recent response to a question about the availability of the new LH cars, I posted a reply that they should start showing up at dealerships soon.  This statement may have been premature.  I heard Thursday that production has been halted, due to a potential problem with the aluminum engine blocks for both new engines.  Has anyone else heard this?  Any details on the potential problem with the blocks?  Please post.

It’s only a reduction is production.  B/c of the some problems/delays (the latter I think) Chrysler has built only about 90% of what they had planned.  No biggie. — Eric Bin President of the Unofficial Luc Longley Internet Fan Club Member of the 1996-97 All-Trube team (MIP)

Response:

In a recent response to a question about the availability of the new LH cars, I posted a reply that they should start showing up at dealerships soon.  This statement may have been premature.  I heard Thursday that production has been halted, due to a potential problem with the aluminum engine blocks for both new engines.  Has anyone else heard this?  Any details on the potential problem with the blocks?  Please post.

Response:

In a recent response to a question about the availability of the new LH cars, I posted a reply that they should start showing up at dealerships soon.  This statement may have been premature.  I heard Thursday that production has been halted, due to a potential problem with the aluminum engine blocks for both new engines.  Has anyone else heard this?  Any details on the potential problem with the blocks?  Please post.

It’s only a reduction is production.  B/c of the some problems/delays (the latter I think) Chrysler has built only about 90% of what they had planned.  No biggie. — Eric Bin President of the Unofficial Luc Longley Internet Fan Club Member of the 1996-97 All-Trube team (MIP)

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