Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Last night I was driving Herman and whilst stationary at a junction where I was waiting for a gap in traffic to turn left on to the main road. Fool in Audi came up behind. He then drove straight into the rear of my car… Said fool in Audi said it was my fault that he drove into the back of my car as my car was stationary… Said fool refused to exchange details (as is required by law) and insisted him driving into the back of my stationary car was not his fault but mine. Luckily no-one was physically hurt, but I was getting a tad worried for my own safety due to the aggressive manner of the Audi fool. So I phoned the police and gave the registration mumber of the Audi. It took that to get the guy to give me his details. Obviously he’s never read the Highway Code as regards leaving space between you & the vehicle in front.

Grr! I hate jerks who can’t admit fault. I mean, I’ve done dumb things in traffic too, but while I am legally not supposed to apologise, if its my fault (or mostly my fault) I try to let the other driver know that I know its my fault (if that makes sense). Lots of calming purrs to you. Hope he gets charged with neg driving and not giving details as well as having to pay your insurance. I remember one time I came out of a shopping centre to see three big guys around a sooped-up "doof doof car" (if you have any stereotypes about how they looked, youa re probably right) which was parked next to my car. I drove a "girls car" (ie, a hatchback) and immediately sensed trouble, so I hurried to get into my car and get going. I didn’t make it, and they accused my of marking the doof doof car with my door. But they weren’t real smart, and they picke dont he wrong person that day. First of all, I asked them where my passenger was, since if it was my car at fault, it would have been my passenger door. Apprantly the saw my "friend" get out. I was travelling alone… And then they claimed that they saw "her" do it. Well, I know that said doof doof car wasn’t parked there when I pulled in (how often do you get two parking spaces side by side in the prime spot?) And then *showed* me the damage. The damage was indeed pretty bad. Not only was the paint marked, but the door actually dinged. Troublewas, since they had a black car, the colour of the offender’s paint was quite clearly red. I drove a white car. Time for some counter bluff. As you might know, I am a paint chemist. I don’t deal with car paint, but hey, the knowledge is similar. "Thats red paint, I drive a white car. If you do a pigment analaysis you’ll probably find its an inorganic/organic hybrid, in siliconised polyester acrylic blend, with a UV resistant overglaze and a zinc-phosphate containing primer. I am paint chemist, I identify such marks for a living. Using that, and hte height of the mark, you are probably looking for a red Mazda sedan, from July 1990 to october1995. If you really think a white, 1984 toyota hatch could make such a mark, you’ll need your own paint chemist and a court order." I watched as their mouths hit the floor, smiled politely, and went on my way. Drove around the corner, and cried my eyes out. I was scared shitless. Yowie — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I’m so sorry to hear this. Lots of calming purrs and gentle hugs, — Polonca & Soncek – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Last night I was driving Herman and whilst stationary at a junction where I was waiting for a gap in traffic to turn left on to the main road. Fool in Audi came up behind. He then drove straight into the rear of my car… Said fool in Audi said it was my fault that he drove into the back of my car as my car was stationary… Said fool refused to exchange details <snip

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Last night I was driving Herman and whilst stationary at a junction where I was waiting for a gap in traffic to turn left on to the main road. Fool in Audi came up behind. He then drove straight into the rear of my car… Said fool in Audi said it was my fault that he drove into the back of my car as my car was stationary… Said fool refused to exchange details (as is required by law) and insisted him driving into the back of my stationary car was not his fault but mine. Luckily no-one was physically hurt, but I was getting a tad worried for my own safety due to the aggressive manner of the Audi fool. So I phoned the police and gave the registration mumber of the Audi. It took that to get the guy to give me his details. Obviously he’s never read the Highway Code as regards leaving space between you & the vehicle in front. Grr! I hate jerks who can’t admit fault. I mean, I’ve done dumb things in traffic too, but while I am legally not supposed to apologise, if its my fault (or mostly my fault) I try to let the other driver know that I know its my fault (if that makes sense). Lots of calming purrs to you. Hope he gets charged with neg driving and not giving details as well as having to pay your insurance. I remember one time I came out of a shopping centre to see three big guys around a sooped-up "doof doof car" (if you have any stereotypes about how they looked, youa re probably right) which was parked next to my car. I drove a "girls car" (ie, a hatchback) and immediately sensed trouble, so I hurried to get into my car and get going. I didn’t make it, and they accused my of marking the doof doof car with my door. But they weren’t real smart, and they picke dont he wrong person that day. First of all, I asked them where my passenger was, since if it was my car at fault, it would have been my passenger door. Apprantly the saw my "friend" get out. I was travelling alone… And then they claimed that they saw "her" do it. Well, I know that said doof doof car wasn’t parked there when I pulled in (how often do you get two parking spaces side by side in the prime spot?) And then *showed* me the damage. The damage was indeed pretty bad. Not only was the paint marked, but the door actually dinged. Troublewas, since they had a black car, the colour of the offender’s paint was quite clearly red. I drove a white car. Time for some counter bluff. As you might know, I am a paint chemist. I don’t deal with car paint, but hey, the knowledge is similar. "Thats red paint, I drive a white car. If you do a pigment analaysis you’ll probably find its an inorganic/organic hybrid, in siliconised polyester acrylic blend, with a UV resistant overglaze and a zinc-phosphate containing primer. I am paint chemist, I identify such marks for a living. Using that, and hte height of the mark, you are probably looking for a red Mazda sedan, from July 1990 to october1995. If you really think a white, 1984 toyota hatch could make such a mark, you’ll need your own paint chemist and a court order." I watched as their mouths hit the floor, smiled politely, and went on my way. Drove around the corner, and cried my eyes out. I was scared shitless. Yowie — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

You go Girl!!!!!!! DH & I call them DorkMobiles.  Almost had one slide into me one winter – they have little or no stopping power with those low-riding slick tires – but since I drive a 4WD Jeep Wrangler, I stopped and gave said Dork a wide berth, then calmly drove around him (going a good 5-6 feet off the road and spitting snow & ice all over his windshield LOL all the way.  I don’t think Dork drove his DorkMobile in the winter after that I remember once when a coworker came back from work from her lunch late, and the back end of her car was all banged up.  She had stopped at a *4-WAY* stop sign (as is the law), and some idiot (to use a usenet-friendly term) had very blatantly slammed into the back of her, gets out of his car and starts screaming at her for "stopping in the middle of the road for no reason".  Fortunately for her, this was within 2 blocks of the city/county hospital, and there are *ALWAYS* cops nearby, and one happened to see the accident.  Cop calmly showed the rear-ender the *4-WAY* stop sign, then noticed a child in the rear seat, no restraint (law is all children under a certain age need to be in a child-safe car seat, and this one was under that age), and the guy was cited for the accident, a non-restrained child (which he seemed to show no interest in whether or not said child was injured during the accident), and then *another* citation for verbally abusing said officer.  Oh, and his driver’s license had previously been suspended for DUI, so he was cited for that, too (fortunately for him, he passed a breathalizer test, so he was not arrested).  Fortunately he did have insurance, the least allowed by the law, which covers the other vehicles/passengers, but not yours.  Friend was a bit shook up by the accident, but no injuries, and was VERY happy that the offender that hit her car was 1 step from being arrested — The ONE and ONLY lefthanded-pathetic-paranoid-psychotic-sarcastic-wiseass-ditzy former-blonde in Bloomington! (And proud of it, too)

Question:

Sales and service at my local BMW dealer is great (although they don’t do loaners during service and don’t wash/vacuum the car when they’re done).  The dealers I’ve found obnoxious have been the Mercedes crowd.  Won’t lift a finger to help even if you walked up and asked them.  The E and CLK class were on my short list, but I couldn’t even get a test drive. R / John     OK, everyone knows the stereotype of BMW dealers being at worse ass-holes and insufferable pricks and at best in serious need of tutelage from Lexus sales people.   So last Tuesday I park my LS400 at the Lexus dealer across the road and walk over to the used car lot at the BMW dealership in a Big Ten college town in Michigan. I’m interested in looking at a 2001 330i manual sedan. Fully expect to be treated like an annoyance to the salesman.   Instead I :get a warm greeting, am shown two cars that are in stock, am handed the keys to both cars (full tanks of gas) for test drives, am encouraged to stay out as long as I want, drive the cars alone, am not asked for any ID ("We trust people here."), am not asked my full name, am told that I can add a CD changer to one of the cars through the dealership for $900 or can get one on e-Bay for $300 and install it myself easily, get all my questions answered…and more, and when I leave am still not asked for an address or phone number – am told that if I am interested I will call or come in again myself.   I feel like I’m in some sort of dream. I remember the dealer experience more than I remember driving the cars, it was such a pleasant surprise. Even nicer than the treatment we get at the Lexus store.   I have to buy a car from these guys! This sort of behavior must be encouraged.   George Litwinski   "It’s good to want things."   S. Barr (philosopher, poet, humorist, chemist, Visual Basic.Net programmer)

Response:

  OK, everyone knows the stereotype of BMW dealers being at worse ass-holes and insufferable pricks and at best in serious need of tutelage from Lexus sales people.   So last Tuesday I park my LS400 at the Lexus dealer across the road and walk over to the used car lot at the BMW dealership in a Big Ten college town in Michigan. I’m interested in looking at a 2001 330i manual sedan. Fully expect to be treated like an annoyance to the salesman.   Instead I :get a warm greeting, am shown two cars that are in stock, am handed the keys to both cars (full tanks of gas) for test drives, am encouraged to stay out as long as I want, drive the cars alone, am not asked for any ID ("We trust people here."), am not asked my full name, am told that I can add a CD changer to one of the cars through the dealership for $900 or can get one on e-Bay for $300 and install it myself easily, get all my questions answered…and more, and when I leave am still not asked for an address or phone number – am told that if I am interested I will call or come in again myself.   I feel like I’m in some sort of dream. I remember the dealer experience more than I remember driving the cars, it was such a pleasant surprise. Even nicer than the treatment we get at the Lexus store.   I have to buy a car from these guys! This sort of behavior must be encouraged.   George Litwinski   "It’s good to want things." S. Barr (philosopher, poet, humorist, chemist, Visual Basic.Net programmer) Wish I could find the same. I politely told them to stick there car and left. In all honesty I fell in love with that car and if the sales service was better I would have got my cheque book out. So Reg Vardy in Stockton on Tees, if you are reading this I bought a lovely car (0 323ci) about a month later from Preston Hall BMW about 200 yards down the road. It cost me a bit more but who cares, Those guys are brill!

Response:

Wish I could find the same. I politely told them to stick there car and left. In all honesty I fell in love with that car and if the sales service was better I would have got my cheque book out. So Reg Vardy in Stockton on Tees, if you are reading this I bought a lovely car (0 323ci) about a month later from Preston Hall BMW about 200 yards down the road. It cost me a bit more but who cares, Those guys are brill!

lol, well I was selecting a new company car which I received on 1st August this year.  I hadn’t decided on the make other than I had a Vauxhall, and swore I would never get one again as Victory Vauxhall in Portsmouth have been less than helpful over the years. Had my heart set on a Toyota Avensis, but trying to get a test drive was harder than pulling hens teeth and the dealer in Waterlooville wasn’t interested. Toyota UK seemed to want me to jump through hurdles to get a test drive, I wondered what they had to hide!  "Hard people to do business with" I thought, remembering the Curry Motors logo "Nice people to do business with". Decided to pop into Snows in Portsmouth (in casual gear), met the sales manager who was EXTREMELY helpful, had a test drive, and I told the guy I had an open mind and was looking as VW, Audi, Hondas and Mercs  etc. He says "You are not old enough to drive a Merc", I had a quiet chuckle as I’m not 23! Nice guy, liked his style I thought, he was about 50. Then onto the VW dealer as I fancied a Golf GTi, and got this response "sorry sir, I work on retail and not company purchases", and the guy walks off.  I’m flabbergasted, so I walk out as well.  Obviously the Portsmouth VW dealer have too many customers to want one more. The Audi garage was next door, and an Audi was on my shortlist.  I was asked to sit in the coffee lounge and help myself to coffee.  After waiting long enough for a coffee and siesta, I walked out, I reckon I was forgotten about. If they don’t care about potential customers – would they care from me if I ordered a car? I thought not. I gave up looking for the Merc garage as I couldn’t find it, and pondered what a disastrous day. Anyway, decided to take a 2 day test drive and I borrowed Snows metallic blue 320D Sport.  Now you must laugh, I couldn’t figure out how to fill the car up with fuel and when I returned it, the manager refused to let me pay for the fuel I used.  I felt quite small when he showed me how to open the flap, but we had a good laugh! So that was it, good service from Snows, helpful people in all positions, and a nice car – I ordered a 320D Sport with a shed load of extras and it’s beautiful, and I’m very happy. BUT, if Snows had been unhelpful and one of the other dealers had been helpful instead, I could quite easily have not got a Beemer, and been just as happy, as when I started my car search, I had not decided on a Beemer. Anyway, what I do now is walk out and look elsewhere if I ever get bad service; there are plenty of excellent cars about. — www.redoak.co.uk      www.eze-buy.co.uk

Response:

OK, everyone knows the stereotype of BMW dealers being at worse ass-holes and insufferable pricks and at best in serious need of tutelage from Lexus sales people. So last Tuesday I park my LS400 at the Lexus dealer across the road and walk over to the used car lot at the BMW dealership in a Big Ten college town in Michigan. I’m interested in looking at a 2001 330i manual sedan. Fully expect to be treated like an annoyance to the salesman. Instead I :get a warm greeting, am shown two cars that are in stock, am handed the keys to both cars (full tanks of gas) for test drives, am encouraged to stay out as long as I want, drive the cars alone, am not asked for any ID ("We trust people here."), am not asked my full name, am told that I can add a CD changer to one of the cars through the dealership for $900 or can get one on e-Bay for $300 and install it myself easily, get all my questions answered…and more, and when I leave am still not asked for an address or phone number – am told that if I am interested I will call or come in again myself. I feel like I’m in some sort of dream. I remember the dealer experience more than I remember driving the cars, it was such a pleasant surprise. Even nicer than the treatment we get at the Lexus store. I have to buy a car from these guys! This sort of behavior must be encouraged. George Litwinski "It’s good to want things." S. Barr (philosopher, poet, humorist, chemist, Visual Basic.Net programmer)

Response:

I feel like I’m in some sort of dream. I remember the dealer experience more than I remember driving the cars, it was such a pleasant surprise. Even nicer than the treatment we get at the Lexus store.

Oh I got superb treatment when I bought mine. The problem is the servicing – three different dealers and all incompetent and dishonest. — *INDECISION is the key to FLEXIBILITY *                   To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Response:

Question:

Yes, a REAL BMW that has only two wheels and handlebars.

You mean like this? http://www.bmw-online.com/PIKE_product_display.asp?p=Q8.R+Racing+Bicy… for more: http://www.bmw-online.com/PIKE_products.asp?page=1&c=Lifestyle+2004:+…

Response:

Yes, a REAL BMW that has only two wheels and handlebars. You mean like this?

http://www.bmw-online.com/PIKE_product_display.asp?p=Q8.R+Racing+Bicy… for more:

http://www.bmw-online.com/PIKE_products.asp?page=1&c=Lifestyle+2004:+… That is a very sweet ride. But at $4k it’s priced like an M5:  Way outta’ my range!!  ;^) -Fred W

Response:

Yes, a REAL BMW that has only two wheels and handlebars.

You mean like this?

http://www.bmw-online.com/PIKE_product_display.asp?p=Q8.R+Racing+Bicy… for more:

http://www.bmw-online.com/PIKE_products.asp?page=1&c=Lifestyle+2004:+… That is a very sweet ride. But at $4k it’s priced like an M5:  Way outta’ my range!!  ;^) -Fred W

NO….those things are jokes! There’s one of those at A&S BMW in Sacramento and all the REAL Bikers laugh at it; price/quality, etc. Only self absorbed Yuppies/Ruppies buy those. A REAL BMW (bikes made weird) has: Two wheels Handlebars AN ENGINE! 160MPH TOP SPEED! Matt, The beemer burner PS: Keep in mind that on another newsgroup, someone would be saying that a REAL BMW has two WINGS and an engine…now that’s going back a LONG time!

Response:

In my house, there are 3 good (well, working and decent) cars. There is the possibility of a 4th, but it needs to fit the following qualifications. 1 – $1000 or under, 2 – Either a BMW or something similar is fun factor (triumph, mg, etc. I realize this is a BMW newsgroup, but many people are knowledgeable about other cars), 3 – It must run fine, 4 – It must be stick shift 5 – It must be fun to drive 6 – It has to be able to last at least a few thousand miles without repairs. Any ideas? Thanks, Richard

Response:

There aren’t very many cars of any make like that. Jim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In my house, there are 3 good (well, working and decent) cars. There is the possibility of a 4th, but it needs to fit the following qualifications. 1 – $1000 or under, 2 – Either a BMW or something similar is fun factor (triumph, mg, etc. I realize this is a BMW newsgroup, but many people are knowledgeable about other cars), 3 – It must run fine, 4 – It must be stick shift 5 – It must be fun to drive 6 – It has to be able to last at least a few thousand miles without repairs. Any ideas? Thanks, Richard

Response:

In my house, there are 3 good (well, working and decent) cars. There is the possibility of a 4th, but it needs to fit the following qualifications. 1 – $1000 or under, 2 – Either a BMW or something similar is fun factor (triumph, mg, etc. I realize this is a BMW newsgroup, but many people are knowledgeable about other cars), 3 – It must run fine, 4 – It must be stick shift 5 – It must be fun to drive 6 – It has to be able to last at least a few thousand miles without repairs. Any ideas? Thanks, Richard

In your case, I would rather buy a japanese car. Any BMW in that price range will be rather prone to be unreliable. Just my $.02 — Best regards. Giovanni Tarantino Bevaix (NE) Switzerland 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Q 223,000 km (137,000 miles) 1997 BMW 535i 221,000 km (134,000 miles)

Response:

Yes, a REAL BMW that has only two wheels and handlebars. BMW= Bikes Made Weird

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In my house, there are 3 good (well, working and decent) cars. There is the possibility of a 4th, but it needs to fit the following qualifications. 1 – $1000 or under, 2 – Either a BMW or something similar is fun factor (triumph, mg, etc. I realize this is a BMW newsgroup, but many people are knowledgeable about other cars), 3 – It must run fine, 4 – It must be stick shift 5 – It must be fun to drive 6 – It has to be able to last at least a few thousand miles without repairs. Any ideas? Thanks, Richard

Response:

series is a fine car to have as a toy or a project, but I doubt it would be the best car to have as a daily driver. I’m not really looking for a daily driver, just something to have some stick shift fun in for a while. I just need it to last a few thousand miles, and then when it breaks I’ll sell it. Richard

Oh.  In that case, go for.  What have you got to lose?  er, I guess $1300… -Fred W

Response:

series is a fine car to have as a toy or a project, but I doubt it would be the best car to have as a daily driver.

I’m not really looking for a daily driver, just something to have some stick shift fun in for a while. I just need it to last a few thousand miles, and then when it breaks I’ll sell it. Richard

Response:

Well, it seems like some of the early 1980’s 5-series might fit the bill, but I wonder, if I see a 1984 5-series in the newspaper for $1300, would it last a few thousand miles without repairs.

You will need to inspect the car.  Nobody can tell whether a car will last any time at all without seeing it first. But, a $1300 car is likely to need repairs sometime soon. Jim

Response:

Richard, You will not find a Triumph or MG for $1000 in driveable condition. Most of them in that price range are parts cars/basket cases. They are fun however, I have a 71 TR6 which I paid $5500 for and it still needs work two years later. Look for an older e30 – 325e/i or an e28 "5 series" – probably harder to find in a stick however. If you find a 535i, avoid any with the metric TRX tires, or you will soon be dealing with an expensive tire bill, or at least buying new rims and tires. Cheers, Howard – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In my house, there are 3 good (well, working and decent) cars. There is the possibility of a 4th, but it needs to fit the following qualifications. 1 – $1000 or under, 2 – Either a BMW or something similar is fun factor (triumph, mg, etc. I realize this is a BMW newsgroup, but many people are knowledgeable about other cars), 3 – It must run fine, 4 – It must be stick shift 5 – It must be fun to drive 6 – It has to be able to last at least a few thousand miles without repairs. Any ideas? Thanks, Richard

Response:

Well, it seems like some of the early 1980’s 5-series might fit the bill, but I wonder, if I see a 1984 5-series in the newspaper for $1300, would it last a few thousand miles without repairs. Richard

There is no such thing as a "good $1000 car" anymore.  I believe it has become extinct.  Heck, I bought my first car for $200 and drove the heck out of it for 5 years, but that was in 1972, the car was (only?) 10 years old, and sold for $2000 brand new (Ford Falcon V8 convertible). Regardless of age or mileage, a good car, that will be semi-reliable for at least a while, will likely cost you 3 or 4 times that $1000 today.  An 84 5 series is a fine car to have as a toy or a project, but I doubt it would be the best car to have as a daily driver.  Just getting many of the parts you will need when (not if) it breaks down will be a challenge.  And the biggest problem with a car that age, unless you happen to live in the desert, is the likelyhood of having body cancer (rust) which quickly reduces the value to nothing at all. YMMV… -Fred W

Response:

Well, it seems like some of the early 1980’s 5-series might fit the bill, but I wonder, if I see a 1984 5-series in the newspaper for $1300, would it last a few thousand miles without repairs. Richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There aren’t very many cars of any make like that. Jim In my house, there are 3 good (well, working and decent) cars. There is the possibility of a 4th, but it needs to fit the following qualifications. 1 – $1000 or under, 2 – Either a BMW or something similar is fun factor (triumph, mg, etc. I realize this is a BMW newsgroup, but many people are knowledgeable about other cars), 3 – It must run fine, 4 – It must be stick shift 5 – It must be fun to drive 6 – It has to be able to last at least a few thousand miles without repairs. Any ideas? Thanks, Richard

Response:

Question:

Hi Folks, I’ve just had my first bad experience with BMW and wanted to give warning(NA-BMW take note). The third week of ownership of my fully optioned Z-4 I noticed a very small wear mark on the drivers seat (left side). Of course this is the area I touch when I enter the car. I’m 6.2 and have this seat set all the way back. I advised my dealer (Weber BMW) about the problem. They said they would have their tanner check it out. Well, over the past 8 months they have been constantly reminded of the situation. (BTW: I think this dealer is fantastic and have only received great service). Trying to make a long story short: My wife took the car in today (I had to work!)and a FACTORY tech said it was normal wear and tear and for me to "pound sand". Bull Hockey!!! I’ve owned 3 other cars, 2 american made and a 560 SL MB (NA-BMW take note: The MB is a low seating sports car also!) and I have NEVER had a problem with the leather. I love this car and purchased it for the car itself and BMW’s reputation. If they would have told me to "pound sand" earlier at least I could have purchased car seat to protect the Folks, I recommend not purchasing anything from BMW until they get their workmanship/materials up to what all of us think is BMW standards. Not much to ask for from a BMW – is it?. It took me 2 months to decide between a used MB 500SL or this car – guess I made a bad choice. I now step-off my soapbox.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I’ve just had my first bad experience with BMW and wanted to give warning(NA-BMW take note). The third week of ownership of my fully optioned Z-4 I noticed a very small wear mark on the drivers seat (left side). Of course this is the area I touch when I enter the car. I’m 6.2 and have this seat set all the way back. I advised my dealer (Weber BMW) about the problem. They said they would have their tanner check it out. Well, over the past 8 months they have been constantly reminded of the situation. (BTW: I think this dealer is fantastic and have only received great service). Trying to make a long story short: My wife took the car in today (I had to work!)and a FACTORY tech said it was normal wear and tear and for me to "pound sand". Bull Hockey!!! I’ve owned 3 other cars, 2 american made and a 560 SL MB (NA-BMW take note: The MB is a low seating sports car also!) and I have NEVER had a problem with the leather. I love this car and purchased it for the car itself and BMW’s reputation. If they would have told me to "pound sand" earlier at least I could have purchased car seat to protect the Folks, I recommend not purchasing anything from BMW until they get their workmanship/materials up to what all of us think is BMW standards. Not much to ask for from a BMW – is it?. It took me 2 months to decide between a used MB 500SL or this car – guess I made a bad choice. I now step-off my soapbox.

Well, I think its your dealer and NOT BMW quality in general that you should "shoot" at. Cars, BMWs,MBs,Audis;SAABs;VOLVOs, are not supernatural "beings" that are totally spotless. A friend of mine recently purchased a 100.000$ (yep, thats the cost of a car here in norway!!:) MB who had a faulty fuel meter. After repeadly having the car in the shop, they didnt manage to fix it. My friend wrote a personal letter to the owner of the store to tell him what he thought about his firm and  sold his car and bought an Audi! Myself, I have experience from owning 4 BMW E34 5 series cars, two wagons, 92 and 93 models and two sedans 88 and 95. All cars have performed admirably in every way. I had my 88 for 7 years without one single problem exept changing wear parts and having regular services. My current 1995 5 series gives me the same confident performance and problem free driving. THe interior still looks spotless after almost 10 years on the road. Erik SMith,oslo,Norway — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I’ve just had my first bad experience with BMW and wanted to give warning(NA-BMW take note). The third week of ownership of my fully optioned Z-4 I noticed a very small wear mark on the drivers seat (left side). Of course this is the area I touch when I enter the car. I’m 6.2 and have this seat set all the way back. I advised my dealer (Weber BMW) about the problem. They said they would have their tanner check it out. Well, over the past 8 months they have been constantly reminded of the situation. (BTW: I think this dealer is fantastic and have only received great service). Trying to make a long story short: My wife took the car in today (I had to work!)and a FACTORY tech said it was normal wear and tear and for me to "pound sand". Bull Hockey!!! I’ve owned 3 other cars, 2 american made and a 560 SL MB (NA-BMW take note: The MB is a low seating sports car also!) and I have NEVER had a problem with the leather. I love this car and purchased it for the car itself and BMW’s reputation. If they would have told me to "pound sand" earlier at least I could have purchased car seat to protect the Folks, I recommend not purchasing anything from BMW until they get their workmanship/materials up to what all of us think is BMW standards. Not much to ask for from a BMW – is it?. It took me 2 months to decide between a used MB 500SL or this car – guess I made a bad choice. I now step-off my

soapbox. Perhaps that tech thought he could buffalo your wife.  After all, you didnt get that baloney when you took the car in did you? My 00 Z3 has a wear spot near the bottom of the back left bolster (bought it that way 2 years ago) which appears to have been caused by maybe a cell phone antenna rubbing on that spot.   However, in your case, after shelling out more than $40,000 for a brand new Z4, I would not be a happy camper with wear marks on my new leather seat in 3 weeks.  By the way, what does the wear mark look like?  Mine looked like the smooth leather finish and color was worn off.  The wife wanted sheepskins seatcovers, so I got a Hawaiian print cover with sheepskins down the middle. At least I dont have to worry about making my wear spot worse,  but I do intend to take it to an upholstery guy and see if they can do something with it. SC 00 Z3 97 528i

Response:

Hi Folks, I’ve just had my first bad experience with BMW and wanted to give warning(NA-BMW take note). The third week of ownership of my fully optioned Z-4 I noticed a very small wear mark on the drivers seat (left side). Of course this is the area I touch when I enter the car.

8<              8<                  8< Folks, I recommend not purchasing anything from BMW until they get their workmanship/materials up to what all of us think is BMW standards. Not much to ask for from a BMW – is it?. It took me 2 months to decide between a used MB 500SL or this car – guess I made a bad choice. I now step-off my

soapbox. So let me get this straight.  You’re posting about a wear spot in the leather bolster that you indicate you probably made in your car’s leather ("Of course this is the area I touch when I enter the car") and advise everyone that they should no longer buy this brand because neither the manufacturer nor dealer wants to pay to replace the leather seat cover? Get real.  You (or another driver) have undoubtedly chafed the finish off the leather in that spot with a belt or something you were wearing (phone, pager, etc.).  It is not a "defect" that I can see, and you didn’t really indicate any reason to believe that it was.  It can happen to a 1 day old seat or a 10 year old one.  It is leather.  Leather’s finish is susceptible to wear.  It is a wear spot. You do know that the finish can be repaired / reapplied don’t you?  Why not just pursue that instead of whining about it being such a huge travesty and defect?  And in the future watch how you drag your butt in and out of the car… Personally, I think you should have bought the MB because the seats wear so much better… -Fred W

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I’ve just had my first bad experience with BMW and wanted to give warning(NA-BMW take note). The third week of ownership of my fully optioned Z-4 I noticed a very small wear mark on the drivers seat (left side). Of course this is the area I touch when I enter the car. 8<              8<                  8< Folks, I recommend not purchasing anything from BMW until they get their workmanship/materials up to what all of us think is BMW standards. Not much to ask for from a BMW – is it?. It took me 2 months to decide between a used MB 500SL or this car – guess I made a bad choice. I now step-off my soapbox. So let me get this straight.  You’re posting about a wear spot in the leather bolster that you indicate you probably made in your car’s leather ("Of course this is the area I touch when I enter the car") and advise everyone that they should no longer buy this brand because neither the manufacturer nor dealer wants to pay to replace the leather seat cover? Get real.  You (or another driver) have undoubtedly chafed the finish off the leather in that spot with a belt or something you were wearing (phone, pager, etc.).  It is not a "defect" that I can see, and you didn’t really indicate any reason to believe that it was.  It can happen to a 1 day old seat or a 10 year old one.  It is leather.  Leather’s finish is susceptible to wear.  It is a wear spot. You do know that the finish can be repaired / reapplied don’t you?  Why not just pursue that instead of whining about it being such a huge travesty and defect?  And in the future watch how you drag your butt in and out of the car… Personally, I think you should have bought the MB because the seats wear so much better… -Fred W

I don’t know, Fred. The leather in my 1990 E30 looks brand new after 83,000 miles. He may have a point.

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I don’t know, Fred. The leather in my 1990 E30 looks brand new after 83,000 miles. He may have a point.

As does my ‘94 540i with 105k miles.  So perhaps you are right.  Or maybe you and I have been more careful when climbing in and out of our seats.  But in any case, it is certainly not a reason to boycott BMWs… -Fred W

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Question:

Take a look at some of these pictures of the 5 modded tell me what you think.  Because at first I thought I liked the 5 but, after further examination of it on the street I don’t I like that thing.  but, I maybe changing my mind looking at it with some modifications (especially with the one with the breyton wheels) . http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=162841

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As a graduate Industrial Designer who appreciates a good looking car, I can honestly say that I find the new 5 series just about as ugly as the 7 series.  The pix are OK, but I’m sorry, the flow of the body to trunk is anything but elegant, and the front end is starting to take on a Pontiac-like look. Why is it that Mercedes and Audi can stretch their "look" into new designs without offending people who actually buy these cars.  The "old" 740IL was as classy and elegant as it got, and the 5-series was great too. This also reminds me of the Taurus oval design theme that was eventually yanked.  The rear end of the new-era BMWs look more like they belong on a Dodge Stratus or something about 5 years old. You can’t hide bad design with oversize wheels and body skirting. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Take a look at some of these pictures of the 5 modded tell me what you think.  Because at first I thought I liked the 5 but, after further examination of it on the street I don’t I like that thing.  but, I maybe changing my mind looking at it with some modifications (especially with the one with the breyton wheels) . http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=162841

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My first impression of the new 7 when I saw one at the dealer was that it looked like a Buick.  The new 5 looks worse on the street – terribly over done.

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Question:

I disagree.

OK

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Agreed. But usually when anyone says "below prime" these days, they are referring to a quoted rate,

Nah, as I said before, when one speaks of "prime rate" I don’t know of anyone who suspects they are speaking about consumer rates. Because consumer rates can vary from bank to bank, while BoC or Fed Res,’s prime rates are set for all. So if you say below prime you are speaking about below the set rate. If you say below 1st Bank’s prime you are speaking about below 1st Bank’s rate for bestest customer. Which very well may not be below Vectra Bank’s prime rate. which is NEVER going to be the BofC Prime Rate. They never say they got their mortgage at the Bank of Montreal Prime less 1%. It’s more a question of common parlance than semantics.

Not at all because without knowing which banks prime you are referring to it is a meaningless comparison. It is true that with the current low prime rate consumer primes are about the same, but in times when the prime is higher (which is 98% of recorded adjusted interest history) there is a much more competitive set to what individual banks charge their bestest customers. It is for that reason that saying you were below prime means below central bank prime, and all other "below prime" comments must qualified by which consumer banks prime you are below. It really is a matter of semantics.

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Agreed. But usually when anyone says "below prime" these days, they are referring to a quoted rate, Nah, as I said before, when one speaks of "prime rate" I don’t know of anyone who suspects they are speaking about consumer rates.

I disagree. No one is goin to say that they negotiate a rate of prime +/- something and think that "prime" is the Fed discount or overnight rate, which is way way lower than anything a bank would charge. I checked and found this about the Fed, just in case I was wrong about the semantics in the US vs Canada. From this description it should be easy to see that "prime" only applies to the bank’s "prime" rate, since it seems that the Fed calls them "discount" and "overnight" rates. It would be more confusing in Canada, where these rates (rate) are/is called simply called the BofC prime – equivalent to the Fed overnight rate.  With so many different benchmark interest rates, it can all get a little confusing. The prime rate shouldn’t be confused with the discount rate – the rate at which the Federal Reserve lends money to banks. Nor should it be mistaken for the federal funds rate  - the overnight interest rate at which banks lend money to each other. Fed Chairman Alan Greenspan and crew directly control the discount rate, and set targets for the fed funds rate. (When you hear that the Fed has raised or lowered interest rates, what its policymaking committee has actually done is reset its fed funds target.) If you say below 1st Bank’s prime you are speaking about below 1st Bank’s rate for bestest customer. Which very well may not be below Vectra Bank’s prime rate.

Correct. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – which is NEVER going to be the BofC Prime Rate. They never say they got their mortgage at the Bank of Montreal Prime less 1%. It’s more a question of common parlance than semantics. Not at all because without knowing which banks prime you are referring to it is a meaningless comparison. It is true that with the current low prime rate consumer primes are about the same, but in times when the prime is higher (which is 98% of recorded adjusted interest history) there is a much more competitive set to what individual banks charge their bestest customers. It is for that reason that saying you were below prime means below central bank prime, and all other "below prime" comments must qualified by which consumer banks prime you are below.

You have just enought knowledge to make a strong (but wrong) arguement. It really is a matter of semantics.

It’s dollars and cents moron, not words.

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In Canada they are currently offering 3.30% for all 3 series.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The idea of having you go through their "Loan" process is to get the nice person in finances to sell you floor mats, lo-jack & an extended warranty, BESIDES trying to sell you their loans. Man, you guys are stuck with some real crappy dealers. Ralph Schomp in Denver, where I have purchased (and leased one) my last 3 Bimmers doesn’t even ask you to go to their finance office. We cover the financing details on the phone, and the paperwork is waiting with the salesperson when they deliver the car. No attempt to sell me anything else at all. Of course this only works if you are familiar with the financing details and potential pitfalls. Sometimes for those who don’t really understand all that it is better to go into a loan office and ask a bunch of questions, about every single line item, before signing the deal. Personally, I have had good luck with BMWFS, received extremely competitive rates, been offered great customer service, even to the point where they refunded a lease payment due to overlapping of the old lease extension and the delivery of a new purchase and had zero problems with them.

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Whoever told you that 3.3% was below prime was just kidding around. Oh really?

Yes, really. What you are showing are secondary rates, all of which are, at least, second tier lends. Prime Rate is the rate upon which that money is loaned in the first place. Canada’s Prime rate is established by your central bank…Bank of Canada, the equivilant of our Federal Reserve, This is the rate at which Canadian banks loan money to each other (further defines by the term of the loan..overnight rates are generally best) and is the rate upon which all other consumer rates are, if not based then at least centralized. Hence the term "Prime Rate". Individual banks may choose to call their current lowest based rate "prime", but of course they are not Prime Rate at all. Effectively it is not good business for consumer loans to carry interest rates below the Prime, as identified by the central bank….because they are then loaning money for less than it cost them to borrow the money in the first place. http://www.bankofcanada.ca/en/interest-look.htm Canada’s Prime rate is currently running about 2.3%.

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Hold on everyone. "Prime Rate" is like Prime Rib. It depends on where you get it. When used as an economic indicator, the "prime" rate is The Bank of Canada’s official rate (or key policy rate) is the Target for the Overnight Rate, which is the midpoint of the Bank’s operating band for overnight financing. The official rate was formerly the Bank Rate, which is the upper limit of the operating band. While this rate is the official "marker" don’t ever think you will see any financial institution offering anything below THIS prime rate. They set their own prime rate, then discount to that, not the BofC prime.

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Hold on everyone. "Prime Rate" is like Prime Rib. It depends on where you get it.

Of course, there is no confusion on that point. The point is that there isn’t anyone I know of who would consider a mention of "prime rate" to be anything other than a reference to the one established by the central bank as the rate banks, and/or other lending institutions, shall charge each other.  All other primes (consumer primes) are identified by which bank is offering it, since no bank is held to a single rate when setting the lowest rate for their best customers. If someone says "lower than prime" that means lower than the central bank’s prime, which as you say…ain’t gonna happen. Sometimes, semantics do matter :^)

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The idea of having you go through their "Loan" process is to get the nice person in finances to sell you floor mats, lo-jack & an extended warranty, BESIDES trying to sell you their loans.

Man, you guys are stuck with some real crappy dealers. Ralph Schomp in Denver, where I have purchased (and leased one) my last 3 Bimmers doesn’t even ask you to go to their finance office. We cover the financing details on the phone, and the paperwork is waiting with the salesperson when they deliver the car. No attempt to sell me anything else at all. Of course this only works if you are familiar with the financing details and potential pitfalls. Sometimes for those who don’t really understand all that it is better to go into a loan office and ask a bunch of questions, about every single line item, before signing the deal. Personally, I have had good luck with BMWFS, received extremely competitive rates, been offered great customer service, even to the point where they refunded a lease payment due to overlapping of the old lease extension and the delivery of a new purchase and had zero problems with them.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hold on everyone. "Prime Rate" is like Prime Rib. It depends on where you get it. Of course, there is no confusion on that point. The point is that there isn’t anyone I know of who would consider a mention of "prime rate" to be anything other than a reference to the one established by the central bank as the rate banks, and/or other lending institutions, shall charge each other.  All other primes (consumer primes) are identified by which bank is offering it, since no bank is held to a single rate when setting the lowest rate for their best customers. If someone says "lower than prime" that means lower than the central bank’s prime, which as you say…ain’t gonna happen. Sometimes, semantics do matter :^) Agreed. But usually when anyone says "below prime" these days, they are referring to a quoted rate, which is NEVER going to be the BofC Prime Rate. They never say they got their mortgage at the Bank of Montreal Prime less 1%. It’s more a question of common parlance than semantics.

Right! What tech27 said.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hold on everyone. "Prime Rate" is like Prime Rib. It depends on where you get it. Of course, there is no confusion on that point. The point is that there isn’t anyone I know of who would consider a mention of "prime rate" to be anything other than a reference to the one established by the central bank as the rate banks, and/or other lending institutions, shall charge each other.  All other primes (consumer primes) are identified by which bank is offering it, since no bank is held to a single rate when setting the lowest rate for their best customers. If someone says "lower than prime" that means lower than the central bank’s prime, which as you say…ain’t gonna happen. Sometimes, semantics do matter :^)

Agreed. But usually when anyone says "below prime" these days, they are referring to a quoted rate, which is NEVER going to be the BofC Prime Rate. They never say they got their mortgage at the Bank of Montreal Prime less 1%. It’s more a question of common parlance than semantics. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok, so when companies like Audi are offering 1.9% and 2.9% financing deals, the best that BMW could offer me is 4.9%, on a 60 month term, with me putting $20,000 down?  My credit score is over 720.    Even Porsche told me they could do 3.9%.   What are others’ experiences? Randy I just scored mine with 3.3% financing from BWM Canada) on a 48 month term which is below the prime rate here. Whoever told you that 3.3% was below prime was just kidding around.

Oh really? I can’t say someone told me as I was able to figure it out all on my own. The prime rate here is currently sitting at 3.75% which would make 3.3% below prime. http://www.moneysense.ca/rates/prime_rates/index.jsp The only prime rate listed there which is below 3.3% is from the Bank of Canada and only financial institutions can borrow from there. Cheers.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had a very frustrating experience with a California BMW dealer.  They force you to go through their financial loan process, even if you have the funds through another bank.  BMW Finance rates are relatively high. Best thing I found is to go through a credit union or other financial institution to pay-off the BMW loan.  Many banks/credit unions are offering new auto-loans in the 3 – 4% range. I saw an article recently that stated that the finance arms of car manufacturers are where they are making most of their money.  When LIBOR and prime rates are 1% or so, they can make a lot at 4-5%.  Don’t put up with it – walk out. Floyd

That’s exactly what I did — I walked out on the dealer in Mountain View, CA.  I then went to another dealer in San Jose, CA (just 20 minutes away) and was able to get satisfactory (although not great) service.  At least they didn’t say I MUST fill out a BMWFS loan application, even if I wasn’t planning on financing through them (which is what the Mountain View, CA dealer did).

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Ok, so when companies like Audi are offering 1.9% and 2.9% financing deals, the best that BMW could offer me is 4.9%, on a 60 month term, with me putting $20,000 down?  My credit score is over 720.    Even Porsche told me they could do 3.9%.   What are others’ experiences? Randy I just scored mine with 3.3% financing from BWM Canada) on a 48 month term which is below the prime rate here.

Whoever told you that 3.3% was below prime was just kidding around.

Response:

I had a very frustrating experience with a California BMW dealer.  They force you to go through their financial loan process, even if you have the funds through another bank.  BMW Finance rates are relatively high. Best thing I found is to go through a credit union or other financial institution to pay-off the BMW loan.  Many banks/credit unions are offering new auto-loans in the 3 – 4% range.

I saw an article recently that stated that the finance arms of car manufacturers are where they are making most of their money.  When LIBOR and prime rates are 1% or so, they can make a lot at 4-5%.  Don’t put up with it – walk out. Floyd

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Force you ???? I would be walking and ask the next dealer if you have to go through the same process. If so I would be buying used. Greg

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok, so when companies like Audi are offering 1.9% and 2.9% financing deals, the best that BMW could offer me is 4.9%, on a 60 month term, with me putting $20,000 down?  My credit score is over 720.    Even Porsche told me they could do 3.9%.   What are others’ experiences? Randy I had a very frustrating experience with a California BMW dealer.  They force you to go through their financial loan process, even if you have the funds through another bank.  BMW Finance rates are relatively high. Best thing I found is to go through a credit union or other financial institution to pay-off the BMW loan.  Many banks/credit unions are offering new auto-loans in the 3 – 4% range.

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The other nice thing about the blank check, is that to the dealer, you’re negotiating with cash.

I see people say this all the time as if it is an advantage to the buyer, but I think the concept is outdated.  These days, dealers prefer to get your business in both the sale and also the financing.  Especially any of the the big car manuafcturers that have their own in-house finance departments, of which BMW is one. It seems to me that the best way to negotiate for a "cash" deal nowadays would be to tell them that that you will be financing (but not with who) and insist on talking total price, not monthly payments.  Some will be happy to do that because they will think that they can up your finance rate a percent and make back some of the amount that they discount.  Then after you agree to a price, let them know that you will be financing elsewhere.  If they seem disappointed tell them the rate you got outside and see if they can match it or do better. If they retract the low price walk away.  It means they were going to try and screw you on the rate. -Fred W

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Ok, so when companies like Audi are offering 1.9% and 2.9% financing deals, the best that BMW could offer me is 4.9%, on a 60 month term, with me putting $20,000 down?  My credit score is over 720.    Even Porsche told me they could do 3.9%.   What are others’ experiences? Randy

Response:

Ok, so when companies like Audi are offering 1.9% and 2.9% financing deals, the best that BMW could offer me is 4.9%, on a 60 month term, with me putting $20,000 down?  My credit score is over 720.    Even Porsche told me they could do 3.9%.   What are others’ experiences? Randy

I had a very frustrating experience with a California BMW dealer.  They force you to go through their financial loan process, even if you have the funds through another bank.  BMW Finance rates are relatively high.   Best thing I found is to go through a credit union or other financial institution to pay-off the BMW loan.  Many banks/credit unions are offering new auto-loans in the 3 – 4% range.

Response:

Ok, so when companies like Audi are offering 1.9% and 2.9% financing deals, the best that BMW could offer me is 4.9%, on a 60 month term, with me putting $20,000 down?  My credit score is over 720.    Even Porsche told me they could do 3.9%.   What are others’ experiences? Randy

I just scored mine with 3.3% financing from BWM Canada) on a 48 month term which is below the prime rate here. Cheers.

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The idea of having you go through their "Loan" process is to get the nice person in finances to sell you floor mats, lo-jack & an extended warranty, BESIDES trying to sell you their loans.

Response:

Randy, I would forget financing through the dealer and go to Capital One Finance online. http://www.capitaloneautofinance.com/Public/Landing/Affiliate/Default… They will pre-approve you, and send you a blank check that you write the loan amount in for up to what you are approved for.  With them, it doesn’t really matter what you intend to put down either.  Plus, you put the dealer in a competitive position to win your finance business to, and get them to stop jacking the rates around.  I got 3.8% for a pre-owned car for 36 months.  As a rule, I do not finance beyond 36 months, so your mileage may vary  The dealer could do 3.9 %.  I financed my ‘98 z3 with BMW without any issues over the life of the loan. The other nice thing about the blank check, is that to the dealer, you’re negotiating with cash.  Maybe you already operate this way, but if you haven’t tried it, make an offer –and when they counter, politely thank them and say you’ll think about it, and then get ready to walk out.  I’m betting they’ll see things more your way.  Do it as many times as you need to.  It works miracles to swing the price in your favor.  Work with the dealer toward the end of the business day.  If s/he has sold some cars that day, s/he will feel that they’re on a roll and want to keep the momentum going. If they haven’t sold any cars that day, the sun is shining on you Just today, BMW raised their finance rates a point across the board.  I learned that today because I was at the dealer to pick up my 2001 740iL today  I closed the deal last week when their rates (certified pre-owned used) were 3.9% for a 36 month loan. Have fun! Fred " Ok, so when companies like Audi are offering 1.9% and 2.9% financing deals, the – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – best that BMW could offer me is 4.9%, on a 60 month term, with me putting $20,000 down?  My credit score is over 720.    Even Porsche told me they could do 3.9%.   What are others’ experiences?

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Question:

All, Well, I almost have the mechanical work done on my car.  The next step is the body work.  I need to get her painted, a couple rust spots cleaned up, and a couple dings taken out.  Anyone have any recomendations for body shops in the Manchester, NH area?  Quality is of the utmost concern, however cost does become a factor.  I had stopped by a shop on Saturday, and was told around $2200.  I have no experience with having a car painted, so if I would also appreciate some guestimates on what kind of price I’m looking at from the group.  Since I was lead to believe it makes a difference, the car is Tornado Red. Thank you in advance. Enjoy Bill 91 Audi 200TQ 96 Chevy K1500

Response:

All, Well, I almost have the mechanical work done on my car.  The next step is the body work.  I need to get her painted, a couple rust spots cleaned up, and a couple dings taken out.  Anyone have any recomendations for body shops in the Manchester, NH area?  Quality is of the utmost concern, however cost does become a factor.  I had stopped by a shop on Saturday, and was told around $2200.  I have no experience with having a car painted, so if I would also appreciate some guestimates on what kind of price I’m looking at from the group.  Since I was lead to believe it makes a difference, the car is Tornado Red.

$2200 doesn’t buy body work and a good paint job at most body shops. Closer to $5K. If they will do it for that price and have good references, go for it.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All, Well, I almost have the mechanical work done on my car.  The next step is the body work.  I need to get her painted, a couple rust spots cleaned up, and a couple dings taken out.  Anyone have any recomendations for body shops in the Manchester, NH area?  Quality is of the utmost concern, however cost does become a factor.  I had stopped by a shop on Saturday, and was told around $2200.  I have no experience with having a car painted, so if I would also appreciate some guestimates on what kind of price I’m looking at from the group.  Since I was lead to believe it makes a difference, the car is Tornado Red. Thank you in advance. Enjoy Bill 91 Audi 200TQ 96 Chevy K1500

I’ve had three cars repaired at ProWorks on Elm St. in Manchester, including door rust on my ‘99 A6 avant when I bought it used.  The owner, Ron stands behind their work. Stu

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know about the custom wheels aspect, but Town Fair Tire (I think that’s the name, right across from Home Depot), has treated me very well between this car and a few others. Thanks. I visited them before I went to Sullivan Tire, and their quote was about $100 more, so I decided to save some money…  You know, penny wise… I didn’t have to pay extra to Sullivan for additional balancing, but the problem is, the car is still shaking at speeds above 60…  And they say they’ve done all they can… Three times… I’ll stop by Town Fair Tire this Saturday, on my way to Home Depot I wonder how much they charge for just balancing the wheels. Oh, for others who read this, Town Fair Tire rotates wheels for free. It may be worth seeing if there is someone local to you with one of these:   http://www.gsp9700.com/ Hey, whaddya know, Sullivan Tire is listed among the proud owners and operators of that machine.  Doesn’t seem like it helped… For the last visit to their shop I was asked to bring my car on Saturday at 8 a.m. when their "specialist for the road force machine" would be available.  I did (that was a week ago).  They took about two and a half hours to "make sure everything is fine".  They even took the car on a road test (supposedly), before and after the procedure.  So?  Yes, most of the enormous vibration was gone, but some still remains.

You may have a bad tire. My suspicion is this: a machine is only as good as the operator working with it and the tuning procedures applied to it before use.  If you give even the finest machine out there to a moron, he will unlikely be able to balance his hat on his head.  If you bring the most talented mechanic to work on a machine with unknown precision and/or out of wack, he won’t be able to do much (not in two hours, anyway).

That’s another possibility Ask the shop with the hunter for the printouts from your balancing – it *should* show before/after for each time.  I forget the exact amount of ‘lbs force’ (10?) that Tireack required for a replacement.  If one tire out of the four seem much worse than the others, see if the place you purchased them from will replace it. — Have you hugged your firewall today?   No spam, thanks. Are you the police?  . . . .  No ma’am, we’re sysadmins.

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All, Well, I [...] I’ve had three cars repaired at [...]

Guys, If you know, what’s a decent place to have 17-inch custom wheels on an A4 balanced in the same area?  Sullivan Tire just can’t get them right (after three tries).  Of course, if nothing else is available, I’ll be dropping it off at the dealer… Thanks. Victor

Response:

I don’t know about the custom wheels aspect, but Town Fair Tire (I think that’s the name, right across from Home Depot), has treated me very well between this car and a few others. Enjoy Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All, Well, I [...] I’ve had three cars repaired at [...] Guys, If you know, what’s a decent place to have 17-inch custom wheels on an A4 balanced in the same area?  Sullivan Tire just can’t get them right (after three tries).  Of course, if nothing else is available, I’ll be dropping it off at the dealer… Thanks. Victor

Response:

Thanks I’ll check them out on Saturday. Enjoy Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All, Well, I almost have the mechanical work done on my car.  The next step is the body work.  I need to get her painted, a couple rust spots cleaned up, and a couple dings taken out.  Anyone have any recomendations for body shops in the Manchester, NH area?  Quality is of the utmost concern, however cost does become a factor.  I had stopped by a shop on Saturday, and was told around $2200.  I have no experience with having a car painted, so if I would also appreciate some guestimates on what kind of price I’m looking at from the group.  Since I was lead to believe it makes a difference, the car is Tornado Red. Thank you in advance. Enjoy Bill 91 Audi 200TQ 96 Chevy K1500 I’ve had three cars repaired at ProWorks on Elm St. in Manchester, including door rust on my ‘99 A6 avant when I bought it used.  The owner, Ron stands behind their work. Stu

Response:

I don’t know about the custom wheels aspect, but Town Fair Tire (I think that’s the name, right across from Home Depot), has treated me very well between this car and a few others.

Thanks. I visited them before I went to Sullivan Tire, and their quote was about $100 more, so I decided to save some money…  You know, penny wise… I didn’t have to pay extra to Sullivan for additional balancing, but the problem is, the car is still shaking at speeds above 60…  And they say they’ve done all they can… Three times… I’ll stop by Town Fair Tire this Saturday, on my way to Home Depot I wonder how much they charge for just balancing the wheels. Oh, for others who read this, Town Fair Tire rotates wheels for free. Victor – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Enjoy Bill All, Well, I [...] I’ve had three cars repaired at [...] Guys, If you know, what’s a decent place to have 17-inch custom wheels on an A4 balanced in the same area?  Sullivan Tire just can’t get them right (after three tries).  Of course, if nothing else is available, I’ll be dropping it off at the dealer… Thanks. Victor

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know about the custom wheels aspect, but Town Fair Tire (I think that’s the name, right across from Home Depot), has treated me very well between this car and a few others. Thanks. I visited them before I went to Sullivan Tire, and their quote was about $100 more, so I decided to save some money…  You know, penny wise… I didn’t have to pay extra to Sullivan for additional balancing, but the problem is, the car is still shaking at speeds above 60…  And they say they’ve done all they can… Three times… I’ll stop by Town Fair Tire this Saturday, on my way to Home Depot I wonder how much they charge for just balancing the wheels. Oh, for others who read this, Town Fair Tire rotates wheels for free.

It may be worth seeing if there is someone local to you with one of these:    http://www.gsp9700.com/ — Have you hugged your firewall today?   No spam, thanks. Are you the police?  . . . .  No ma’am, we’re sysadmins.

Response:

Unless things have changed, they are a Mon-Fri, 9-5 shop. Stu – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks I’ll check them out on Saturday. Enjoy Bill All, Well, I almost have the mechanical work done on my car.  The next step is the body work.  I need to get her painted, a couple rust spots cleaned up, and a couple dings taken out.  Anyone have any recomendations for body shops in the Manchester, NH area?  Quality is of the utmost concern, however cost does become a factor.  I had stopped by a shop on Saturday, and was told around $2200.  I have no experience with having a car painted, so if I would also appreciate some guestimates on what kind of price I’m looking at from the group.  Since I was lead to believe it makes a difference, the car is Tornado Red. Thank you in advance. Enjoy Bill 91 Audi 200TQ 96 Chevy K1500 I’ve had three cars repaired at ProWorks on Elm St. in Manchester, including door rust on my ‘99 A6 avant when I bought it used.  The owner, Ron stands behind their work. Stu

Response:

I have heard about 17 inch wheels getting bent from pot holes. They can be straightened. Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know about the custom wheels aspect, but Town Fair Tire (I think that’s the name, right across from Home Depot), has treated me very well between this car and a few others. Thanks. I visited them before I went to Sullivan Tire, and their quote was about $100 more, so I decided to save some money…  You know, penny wise… I didn’t have to pay extra to Sullivan for additional balancing, but the problem is, the car is still shaking at speeds above 60…  And they say they’ve done all they can… Three times… I’ll stop by Town Fair Tire this Saturday, on my way to Home Depot I wonder how much they charge for just balancing the wheels. Oh, for others who read this, Town Fair Tire rotates wheels for free. Victor Enjoy Bill All, Well, I [...] I’ve had three cars repaired at [...] Guys, If you know, what’s a decent place to have 17-inch custom wheels on an A4 balanced in the same area?  Sullivan Tire just can’t get them right (after three tries).  Of course, if nothing else is available, I’ll be dropping it off at the dealer… Thanks. Victor

Response:

I have heard about 17 inch wheels getting bent from pot holes. They can be straightened.

Yes, that sometimes happen.  Mine, however are new. V

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know about the custom wheels aspect, but Town Fair Tire (I think that’s the name, right across from Home Depot), has treated me very well between this car and a few others. Thanks. I visited them before I went to Sullivan Tire, and their quote was about $100 more, so I decided to save some money…  You know, penny wise… I didn’t have to pay extra to Sullivan for additional balancing, but the problem is, the car is still shaking at speeds above 60…  And they say they’ve done all they can… Three times… I’ll stop by Town Fair Tire this Saturday, on my way to Home Depot I wonder how much they charge for just balancing the wheels. Oh, for others who read this, Town Fair Tire rotates wheels for free. It may be worth seeing if there is someone local to you with one of these:    http://www.gsp9700.com/

Hey, whaddya know, Sullivan Tire is listed among the proud owners and operators of that machine.  Doesn’t seem like it helped… For the last visit to their shop I was asked to bring my car on Saturday at 8 a.m. when their "specialist for the road force machine" would be available.  I did (that was a week ago).  They took about two and a half hours to "make sure everything is fine".  They even took the car on a road test (supposedly), before and after the procedure.  So?  Yes, most of the enormous vibration was gone, but some still remains. My suspicion is this: a machine is only as good as the operator working with it and the tuning procedures applied to it before use.  If you give even the finest machine out there to a moron, he will unlikely be able to balance his hat on his head.  If you bring the most talented mechanic to work on a machine with unknown precision and/or out of wack, he won’t be able to do much (not in two hours, anyway). I am not sure I should try every shop in the area that has this machine to see if they know what buttons to press or to see if they maintain it in a workable state.  It’s just too damn expensive to try to find a shop capable of doing what I need by going from door to door… Still, thanks for the information. V

Response:

Question:

Hi, I have a 1998 525TD that has 250000 km on the counter at this moment. Apart from a problem with the airco I have not had too much trouble with it. I was wondering how many km I can reasonably expect to be able to add to the counter? Cheers

Properly serviced, it should be able to reach 450,000 km maybe more, with luck.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I have a 1998 525TD that has 250000 km on the counter at this moment. Apart from a problem with the airco I have not had too much trouble with it. I was wondering how many km I can reasonably expect to be able to add to the counter? Just look at website with 2nd hand cars, which contain plenty of examples. This link shows 86 such cars with more than 250,000 km: http://www.autoscout24.de/home/index/list.asp?make=13&model=1651&year… this one is a 1998 model with 339,000 km: http://www.autoscout24.de/home/index/detail.asp?ts=3490953&id=w3g1gjw… Hope this helps

Thanks guys, comforting information!

Response:

Hi, I have a 1998 525TD that has 250000 km on the counter at this moment. Apart from a problem with the airco I have not had too much trouble with it. I was wondering how many km I can reasonably expect to be able to add to the counter? Cheers

Response:

Hi, I have a 1998 525TD that has 250000 km on the counter at this moment. Apart from a problem with the airco I have not had too much trouble with it. I was wondering how many km I can reasonably expect to be able to add to the counter?

Just look at website with 2nd hand cars, which contain plenty of examples. This link shows 86 such cars with more than 250,000 km: http://www.autoscout24.de/home/index/list.asp?make=13&model=1651&year… this one is a 1998 model with 339,000 km: http://www.autoscout24.de/home/index/detail.asp?ts=3490953&id=w3g1gjw… Hope this helps — Best regards. Giovanni Tarantino Bevaix (NE) Switzerland 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Q 219,000 km (134,000 miles) 1997 BMW 535i 216,000 km (132,000 miles)

Response:

Question:

Hi everybody, i’m new in this NG and i would like to have an advice before decided between 2 cars. I hope not beeing unpleasant but i hesitate with a new A3 1.6L or 2.0L (petrol engine) and an Alfa 147 1.6L or 2.0L (petrol too) I like the new look of the A3 but find the Alfa more sporty exterior and the dashboard is amazing. In my family, my 2 uncles have a A4 TDI quattro AVANT and a A4 V6 quattro. Other one have a Alfa 156 , the choice is hard for me, i would like to take both the A3 and the Alfa 147 but it’s just a dream so any advices ? Thanks all B.D.

Response:

You have access to what you need.  Drive both the AUDI and the Alfa and compare the features and price.  Personally I believe the AUDI would be more reliable.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi everybody, i’m new in this NG and i would like to have an advice before decided between 2 cars. I hope not beeing unpleasant but i hesitate with a new A3 1.6L or 2.0L (petrol engine) and an Alfa 147 1.6L or 2.0L (petrol too) I like the new look of the A3 but find the Alfa more sporty exterior and the dashboard is amazing. In my family, my 2 uncles have a A4 TDI quattro AVANT and a A4 V6 quattro. Other one have a Alfa 156 , the choice is hard for me, i would like to take both the A3 and the Alfa 147 but it’s just a dream so any advices ? Thanks all B.D.

Response:

You have access to what you need.  Drive both the AUDI and the Alfa and compare the features and price.  Personally I believe the AUDI would be more reliable.

I’m waiting for a test drive for the A3 at my local dealer, i can’t compare with my uncles cars as they are not the sames models, more powered TDI and 4×4, and i don’t want diesel engine. The 156 is bigger than the 147, difficult to compare too. i would like to have differents opinions on these cars because in my family they all says that their cars are better than the others so it’s not objective opinion. BD.

Response:

I hope not beeing unpleasant but i hesitate with a new A3 1.6L or 2.0L (petrol engine) and an Alfa 147 1.6L or 2.0L (petrol too)

I personally chose between BMW Compact, Alfa 147 and new A3, and ended up to A3 2,0 FSI. I found it looks best, it’s better to drive, and, it’s not going to get replaced this year/next year, like Compact & Alfa 147. And at least here, Alfa’s have terrible resale value, they lose half of the value when you drive them out. This is mostly because of bad quality Alfa has in their cars, electricity problems and that they’re not good winter cars. Alfa is the cheapest, just buy one that’s been used a year and it’s 2/3 of the original price. That’s what made me thought about it, but the lack of quality is what makes it so cheap and I don’t want that.    - Yak

Response:

[...] i would like to have differents opinions

Different from what? on these cars because in my family they all says that their cars are better than the others so it’s not objective opinion.

And you think that here you will get an objective opinion?  How can a bunch of personal opinions make it objective?  Just like with your family, except we don’t come to your Xmas dinner.  And, beyond any doubt, my car is better than any other, simply coz it’s mine.

Response:

I personally chose between BMW Compact, Alfa 147 and new A3, and ended up to A3 2,0 FSI. I found it looks best, it’s better to drive, and, it’s not going to get replaced this year/next year, like Compact & Alfa 147. And at least here, Alfa’s have terrible resale value, they lose half of the value when you drive them out. This is mostly because of bad quality Alfa has in their cars, electricity problems and that they’re not good winter cars. Alfa is the cheapest, just buy one that’s been used a year and it’s 2/3 of the original price. That’s what made me thought about it, but the lack of quality is what makes it so cheap and I don’t want that.   – Yak

thanks for your answer, i’m going to test drive an A3 this week-end, not sure for the 147 . I know about the resale value of the Alfas but they are cheaper so the gap is not so big .The most important for me is to have pleasure when driving, the look is important too but i find both A3 and 147 pretty. i need good handling, i do not use motorway but little country roads so i want a feed back car to have fun even at legal speed limits. After test driving both i will decide, and i must look at the interior too. B.D.

Response:

I have owned a 156 and a S3. I now own an 98 A6 and a 96 Alfa Spider. My comment on all of these is, the Audi is the daily workhorse and the Alfas are the fun cars – they make you smile. In terms of reliability the S3 turned out to be the most un-reliable car I have ever – repeat ever – owned. Talk to an Alfa owner and get their opinion. Alfa’s are no way as un-reliable as history or myth would have you believe. In the UK any AA or RAC technician will tell you Audi/VW don’t deserve their reputation of good reliability, they are just good at telling us they make reliable cars. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I personally chose between BMW Compact, Alfa 147 and new A3, and ended up to A3 2,0 FSI. I found it looks best, it’s better to drive, and, it’s not going to get replaced this year/next year, like Compact & Alfa 147. And at least here, Alfa’s have terrible resale value, they lose half of the value when you drive them out. This is mostly because of bad quality Alfa has in their cars, electricity problems and that they’re not good winter cars. Alfa is the cheapest, just buy one that’s been used a year and it’s 2/3 of the original price. That’s what made me thought about it, but the lack of quality is what makes it so cheap and I don’t want that.   – Yak thanks for your answer, i’m going to test drive an A3 this week-end, not sure for the 147 . I know about the resale value of the Alfas but they are cheaper so the gap is not so big .The most important for me is to have pleasure when driving, the look is important too but i find both A3 and 147 pretty. i need good handling, i do not use motorway but little country roads so i want a feed back car to have fun even at legal speed limits. After test driving both i will decide, and i must look at the interior too. B.D.

Response:

After test driving both i will decide, and i must look at the interior too.

Well Audi make the best car interiors, end of story — Toby

Response:

I’m waiting for a test drive for the A3 at my local dealer

I’d definitely make sure you test drive the A3, especially if you’re considering the 1.6 as the car is quite heavy and the 1.6 might feel rather lethargic. — Toby

Response:

Question:

The radio in my Audi 5000 CS Quattro has a loose wire behind it. The speakers keep cutting out unless I push the radio/cassette unit in … Any help is appreciated. David

Response:

David, The problem might be the wires that plug into the back of the unit – or it might be an internal problem.  Removing the unit from the dash and making sure everything is plugged in well is a good idea – also check the continuity between the speakers and the plugs.  If the problem is in the head unit itself, you might consider getting one from eBay or www.car-part.com instead of fixing it – unless you’re emotionally attached to this one, you can get mid-80’s Audi radios for cheap, considering how many of the cars were out there before the UA fiasco really took hold. I repaired one of the (Canadian version – push button volume with a remote control) radios using parts from a couple of inoperable ones I have in my parts bin – one had a busted display, one had a 2 position volume (full or off) and one had a busted security chip.  The "Frankenradio" was created using plug-in components from the other radios – forget about fixing circuits.  I got the parts radios for about $10 to $20 each. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ – radio fixed, still lost some hearing. 1980 Audi 5k – radio to be re-installed 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – AM tube radio singing away in the dash

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The radio in my Audi 5000 CS Quattro has a loose wire behind it. The speakers keep cutting out unless I push the radio/cassette unit in … Any help is appreciated. David

Response:

Steve, thanks for responding..my problem is removing the unit from the dash to get a good look at it. I removed the side panels but could find what was holding the damn thing in. That’s why I was looking for a manual that could tell me. I think the problem is in the unit itself. I have a cassette adapter which I hook my mp3 player thru the speakers, it works w/o a hitch, but when I eject it and just play the radio I get the cut outs … very annoying … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David, The problem might be the wires that plug into the back of the unit – or it might be an internal problem.  Removing the unit from the dash and making sure everything is plugged in well is a good idea – also check the continuity between the speakers and the plugs.  If the problem is in the head unit itself, you might consider getting one from eBay or www.car-part.com instead of fixing it – unless you’re emotionally attached to this one, you can get mid-80’s Audi radios for cheap, considering how many of the cars were out there before the UA fiasco really took hold. I repaired one of the (Canadian version – push button volume with a remote control) radios using parts from a couple of inoperable ones I have in my parts bin – one had a busted display, one had a 2 position volume (full or off) and one had a busted security chip.  The "Frankenradio" was created using plug-in components from the other radios – forget about fixing circuits.  I got the parts radios for about $10 to $20 each. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ – radio fixed, still lost some hearing. 1980 Audi 5k – radio to be re-installed 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – AM tube radio singing away in the dash The radio in my Audi 5000 CS Quattro has a loose wire behind it. The speakers keep cutting out unless I push the radio/cassette unit in … Any help is appreciated. David

Response:

There are four holes in the face plate – two on each side. Insert coat hanger wires in the holes to release the clips and pry out carefully. Tony ‘91 100q 5spd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Steve, thanks for responding..my problem is removing the unit from the dash to get a good look at it. I removed the side panels but could find what was holding the damn thing in. That’s why I was looking for a manual that could tell me. I think the problem is in the unit itself. I have a cassette adapter which I hook my mp3 player thru the speakers, it works w/o a hitch, but when I eject it and just play the radio I get the cut outs … very annoying … David, The problem might be the wires that plug into the back of the unit – or it might be an internal problem.  Removing the unit from the dash and making sure everything is plugged in well is a good idea – also check the continuity between the speakers and the plugs.  If the problem is in the head unit itself, you might consider getting one from eBay or www.car-part.com instead of fixing it – unless you’re emotionally attached to this one, you can get mid-80’s Audi radios for cheap, considering how many of the cars were out there before the UA fiasco really took hold. I repaired one of the (Canadian version – push button volume with a remote control) radios using parts from a couple of inoperable ones I have in my parts bin – one had a busted display, one had a 2 position volume (full or off) and one had a busted security chip.  The "Frankenradio" was created using plug-in components from the other radios – forget about fixing circuits.  I got the parts radios for about $10 to $20 each. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ – radio fixed, still lost some hearing. 1980 Audi 5k – radio to be re-installed 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – AM tube radio singing away in the dash The radio in my Audi 5000 CS Quattro has a loose wire behind it. The speakers keep cutting out unless I push the radio/cassette unit in … Any help is appreciated. David

Response:

Thank you! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -There are four holes in the face plate – two on each side. Insert coat hanger wires in the holes to release the clips and pry out carefully. Tony ‘91 100q 5spd Steve, thanks for responding..my problem is removing the unit from the dash to get a good look at it. I removed the side panels but could find what was holding the damn thing in. That’s why I was looking for a manual that could tell me. I think the problem is in the unit itself. I have a cassette adapter which I hook my mp3 player thru the speakers, it works w/o a hitch, but when I eject it and just play the radio I get the cut outs … very annoying … David

Response: