Question:

Have to replace cv boots on 95 neon. I replace the cv boots a number of years ago on a dodge 600 so I think it will be the same but, can remember all the details . -removal axle nut -can I get the axil out of the hub without undoing steering and shock? -pull axle out of transmission. -C clip to hold outer cv joint in place. -twist cv joint to remove balls and race -inner cv there is a metal ring that must be bent to remove joint? (I think). -check for wear -replace boots and re-install Thanks for your help Len

Response:

says… Have to replace cv boots on 95 neon. I replace the cv boots a number of years ago on a dodge 600 so I think it will be the same but, can remember all the details . -removal axle nut -can I get the axil out of the hub without undoing steering and shock?

I’ve done a few cars and I never had to undo the shock/strut.  I always had to pull the tie rod end and the ball joint.  Then the hub can move enough to give you the necessary clearance to get the axle out. -pull axle out of transmission. -C clip to hold outer cv joint in place.

Some have spring loaded clips.  You just need to hammer the joint past the clip. -twist cv joint to remove balls and race -inner cv there is a metal ring that must be bent to remove joint? (I think). -check for wear -replace boots and re-install

You forgot to thoroughly clean the joint and use CV joint grease, should come with the new boot.   Alex

Response:

Have to replace cv boots on 95 neon. I replace the cv boots a number of years ago on a dodge 600 so I think it will be the same but, can remember all the details . -removal axle nut -can I get the axil out of the hub without undoing steering and shock? -pull axle out of transmission. -C clip to hold outer cv joint in place. -twist cv joint to remove balls and race -inner cv there is a metal ring that must be bent to remove joint? (I think). -check for wear -replace boots and re-install Thanks for your help Len

Response:

says… Have to replace cv boots on 95 neon. I replace the cv boots a number of years ago on a dodge 600 so I think it will be the same but, can remember all the details . -removal axle nut -can I get the axil out of the hub without undoing steering and shock?

I’ve done a few cars and I never had to undo the shock/strut.  I always had to pull the tie rod end and the ball joint.  Then the hub can move enough to give you the necessary clearance to get the axle out. -pull axle out of transmission. -C clip to hold outer cv joint in place.

Some have spring loaded clips.  You just need to hammer the joint past the clip. -twist cv joint to remove balls and race -inner cv there is a metal ring that must be bent to remove joint? (I think). -check for wear -replace boots and re-install

You forgot to thoroughly clean the joint and use CV joint grease, should come with the new boot.   Alex

Response:

Question:

Thanks for information, I would still like to just remove the speed signal from the chime if that is at all possible because i haven’t seen in the UK a headlamp chime as an add on. regards.

Headlamp chime add-ons are readily available in the UK. Hella makes one, no. 3SB 004 438-801. I see them go by on Ebay from time to time, viz: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7919200725 But if you don’t spot one on Ebay, your local Hella stockist can furnish this item. DS

Response:

My car is fitted with a speed chime which activates at approx 74 mph, how can it be switched of or changed to 100mph.

Response:

My car is fitted with a speed chime which activates at approx 74 mph, how can it be switched of or changed to 100mph.

What country are you located in? The 75mph speed chime is a requirement in certain Middle Eastern countries. DS

Response:

The car was purchased in the UAE and has now been imported to the UK

Response:

My car is fitted with a speed chime which activates at approx 74 mph, how can it be switched of or changed to 100mph. What country are you located in? The 75mph speed chime is a requirement in certain Middle Eastern countries. The car was purchased in the UAE and has now been imported to the UK

Oh, *wow*. Now that must’ve been one hell of a SVA conversion job. If I’m not mistaken, the Dodge Spirits sold in the Middle Eastern market were mostly equipped with 3.0 litre V6s with leaded-fuel emissions systems (no O2 sensor, no catcon) and equipped with mostly US-spec safety equipment (lights, mirrors, etc.) Unless you got very lucky, I bet you had to do a great deal of retrofit/conversion work to get the car past MoT. The speed warning chime is obviously going to be a nuisance with UK motorway speeds. Unfortunately, the "domestic" (US) service manuals are almost completely silent on production variants for other markets, even Canada, let alone all the other places the Spirit/Acclaim/Saratoga cars were sold (all of Europe, Mexico, Argentina in mostly Mexican-spec form, Israel in mostly European-spec form, much of the rest of the middle east in mostly US-spec form…). You can disconnect the chime itself — it is located behind the dashboard, and is relatively easy to find if you simply open the driver’s door and turn on the headlamps with the ignition switched off so you can follow the chiming sound — but this will lose you the headlamps-on warning. If you can live without that (or simply install an aftermarket lights-on warning buzzer) that’s probably the easiest way to disable the annoying chime. DS

Response:

Thanks for information, I would still like to just remove the speed signal from the chime if that is at all possible because i haven’t seen in the UK a headlamp chime as an add on. regards.

Response:

My car is fitted with a speed chime which activates at approx 74 mph, how can it be switched of or changed to 100mph.

Response:

My car is fitted with a speed chime which activates at approx 74 mph, how can it be switched of or changed to 100mph.

What country are you located in? The 75mph speed chime is a requirement in certain Middle Eastern countries. DS

Response:

The car was purchased in the UAE and has now been imported to the UK

Response:

My car is fitted with a speed chime which activates at approx 74 mph, how can it be switched of or changed to 100mph. What country are you located in? The 75mph speed chime is a requirement in certain Middle Eastern countries. The car was purchased in the UAE and has now been imported to the UK

Oh, *wow*. Now that must’ve been one hell of a SVA conversion job. If I’m not mistaken, the Dodge Spirits sold in the Middle Eastern market were mostly equipped with 3.0 litre V6s with leaded-fuel emissions systems (no O2 sensor, no catcon) and equipped with mostly US-spec safety equipment (lights, mirrors, etc.) Unless you got very lucky, I bet you had to do a great deal of retrofit/conversion work to get the car past MoT. The speed warning chime is obviously going to be a nuisance with UK motorway speeds. Unfortunately, the "domestic" (US) service manuals are almost completely silent on production variants for other markets, even Canada, let alone all the other places the Spirit/Acclaim/Saratoga cars were sold (all of Europe, Mexico, Argentina in mostly Mexican-spec form, Israel in mostly European-spec form, much of the rest of the middle east in mostly US-spec form…). You can disconnect the chime itself — it is located behind the dashboard, and is relatively easy to find if you simply open the driver’s door and turn on the headlamps with the ignition switched off so you can follow the chiming sound — but this will lose you the headlamps-on warning. If you can live without that (or simply install an aftermarket lights-on warning buzzer) that’s probably the easiest way to disable the annoying chime. DS

Response:

Thanks for information, I would still like to just remove the speed signal from the chime if that is at all possible because i haven’t seen in the UK a headlamp chime as an add on. regards.

Response:

Thanks for information, I would still like to just remove the speed signal from the chime if that is at all possible because i haven’t seen in the UK a headlamp chime as an add on. regards.

Headlamp chime add-ons are readily available in the UK. Hella makes one, no. 3SB 004 438-801. I see them go by on Ebay from time to time, viz: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7919200725 But if you don’t spot one on Ebay, your local Hella stockist can furnish this item. DS

Response:

Question:

Hi Steve. The van has no sentimental value. So I’ll take whatever I can get for it. At the junkyard or something. Alvie. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie. Depends on who you are and what you want. If you’re looking for a good reliable engine, the Mitsu 2.6 (not 2.4) is worthless. You’d have to pay most knowledgable folks to own one. But the funny thing about really BAD engines is that if you’re in the used parts business, they can make your annual income because there’s such a a high demand for replacements (actually, I think even that time has passed for the Mitsu 2.6). As an example, a friend of mine has owned a salvage operation for decades, and he says the most profitable engines he ever dealt with were 1) the Cadillac HT4100, and 2) the Mitsu 2.6. Sure, a lot of cars wound up in his junkyard BECAUSE those lousy engines had exploded, but on the other hand whenever a wrecked Cadillac or Dodge Minivan with one of those engines that still ran would come in, he could put any price he wanted on it and sell it "no warranty" and it would be gone in a matter of days if not hours, because the market was so starved for running engines of those types.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all?

He’s confusing this with the vans that came with turbo 2.5L 4 bangers in 1989 and 1990. Ted

Response:

Hi all, Thanks for the info. It is much appreciated. I think it is a 2.6 I4, but I wasn’t sure.

If it’s a Mitsu 2.6, its value is not just 0 but negative and its only use is as an anchor for a fairly small boat. — Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D.       Phone — (505) 646-1605 Department of Computer Science       FAX   — (505) 646-1002 New Mexico State University          http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer

Response:

Hi all, Thanks for the info. It is much appreciated. I think it is a 2.6 I4, but I wasn’t sure. Thanks again. Alvie. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Depends on who you are and what you want. If you’re looking for a good reliable engine, the Mitsu 2.6 (not 2.4) is worthless. You’d have to pay most knowledgable folks to own one. But the funny thing about really BAD engines is that if you’re in the used parts business, they can make your annual income because there’s such a a high demand for replacements (actually, I think even that time has passed for the Mitsu 2.6). As an example, a friend of mine has owned a salvage operation for decades, and he says the most profitable engines he ever dealt with were 1) the Cadillac HT4100, and 2) the Mitsu 2.6. Sure, a lot of cars wound up in his junkyard BECAUSE those lousy engines had exploded, but on the other hand whenever a wrecked Cadillac or Dodge Minivan with one of those engines that still ran would come in, he could put any price he wanted on it and sell it "no warranty" and it would be gone in a matter of days if not hours, because the market was so starved for running engines of those types.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

If you are in North America, that Mitsu is a 2.6 liter, and it is a "timb bomb". Not much value for anything but a boat anchor unless it has been properly overhauled and all of the dozen or so modifications required made properly.

Response:

Scrap iron basically. Probably one of the worst engines ever made. May have some value for someone trying to hold on to an old vehicle with one otherwise it’s an orphaned product. Larry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Response:

Scrap iron basically. Probably one of the worst engines ever made. May have some value for someone trying to hold on to an old vehicle with one otherwise it’s an orphaned product. Larry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

If you are in North America, that Mitsu is a 2.6 liter, and it is a "timb bomb". Not much value for anything but a boat anchor unless it has been properly overhauled and all of the dozen or so modifications required made properly.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Depends on who you are and what you want. If you’re looking for a good reliable engine, the Mitsu 2.6 (not 2.4) is worthless. You’d have to pay most knowledgable folks to own one. But the funny thing about really BAD engines is that if you’re in the used parts business, they can make your annual income because there’s such a a high demand for replacements (actually, I think even that time has passed for the Mitsu 2.6). As an example, a friend of mine has owned a salvage operation for decades, and he says the most profitable engines he ever dealt with were 1) the Cadillac HT4100, and 2) the Mitsu 2.6. Sure, a lot of cars wound up in his junkyard BECAUSE those lousy engines had exploded, but on the other hand whenever a wrecked Cadillac or Dodge Minivan with one of those engines that still ran would come in, he could put any price he wanted on it and sell it "no warranty" and it would be gone in a matter of days if not hours, because the market was so starved for running engines of those types.

Response:

Hi all, Thanks for the info. It is much appreciated. I think it is a 2.6 I4, but I wasn’t sure. Thanks again. Alvie. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie.

Response:

Hi Steve. The van has no sentimental value. So I’ll take whatever I can get for it. At the junkyard or something. Alvie. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all? Thanks. Alvie. Depends on who you are and what you want. If you’re looking for a good reliable engine, the Mitsu 2.6 (not 2.4) is worthless. You’d have to pay most knowledgable folks to own one. But the funny thing about really BAD engines is that if you’re in the used parts business, they can make your annual income because there’s such a a high demand for replacements (actually, I think even that time has passed for the Mitsu 2.6). As an example, a friend of mine has owned a salvage operation for decades, and he says the most profitable engines he ever dealt with were 1) the Cadillac HT4100, and 2) the Mitsu 2.6. Sure, a lot of cars wound up in his junkyard BECAUSE those lousy engines had exploded, but on the other hand whenever a wrecked Cadillac or Dodge Minivan with one of those engines that still ran would come in, he could put any price he wanted on it and sell it "no warranty" and it would be gone in a matter of days if not hours, because the market was so starved for running engines of those types.

Response:

Hi all; This question may sound really dumb. But I’ll ask anyway. I have an older, 1986, Plymouth Voyager with a carburated Mitsu 2.4 I4 and automatic tranny. A friend of my dads said that particular engine is supposedly worth some decent money. I’m not convinced so thats why I’m here and ask: Is the engine actually worth anything at all?

He’s confusing this with the vans that came with turbo 2.5L 4 bangers in 1989 and 1990. Ted

Response:

Hi all, Thanks for the info. It is much appreciated. I think it is a 2.6 I4, but I wasn’t sure.

If it’s a Mitsu 2.6, its value is not just 0 but negative and its only use is as an anchor for a fairly small boat. — Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D.       Phone — (505) 646-1605 Department of Computer Science       FAX   — (505) 646-1002 New Mexico State University          http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer

Response:

Question:

 have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? Changing From a 904G to a 727 in a 71 Valiant

Response:

All you should need is a shorter drive shaft. Barry A. Lee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? Changing From a 904G to a 727 in a 71 Valiant

Response:

have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up?

The 904 and 727 use a different spline on the output shaft so a different slip yoke will be needed in addition to shortening the drive shaft. Depending on whether it has a column or console shifter, some pieces of the shift linkage are different between a 904 and 727 installation. Since the 727 is most likely from a truck, the bottom of the tailhousing may not have the mounting boss for the console shifter bellcrank support.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? The 904 and 727 use a different spline on the output shaft so a different slip yoke will be needed in addition to shortening the drive shaft. Depending on whether it has a column or console shifter, some pieces of the shift linkage are different between a 904 and 727 installation. Since the 727 is most likely from a truck, the bottom of the tailhousing may not have the mounting boss for the console shifter bellcrank support.

The 225/727 was pulled out of a dodge dart I think. the car from what I have been told by the buddy that pulled it the car ran like a bat out of hell(he just forgot to pull the drive line). it was purchased from an auction to be scraped. since it came out of an dodge dart(i think, but it was a car not truck), would there be that much of a clerance diffrence?

Response:

No, you’d also need a different slip-yoke. 727 splines are different than 904 splines. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All you should need is a shorter drive shaft. Barry A. Lee  have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? Changing From a 904G to a 727 in a 71 Valiant

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? The 904 and 727 use a different spline on the output shaft so a different slip yoke will be needed in addition to shortening the drive shaft. Depending on whether it has a column or console shifter, some pieces of the shift linkage are different between a 904 and 727 installation. Since the 727 is most likely from a truck, the bottom of the tailhousing may not have the mounting boss for the console shifter bellcrank support. The 225/727 was pulled out of a dodge dart I think. the car from what I have been told by the buddy that pulled it the car ran like a bat out of hell(he just forgot to pull the drive line). it was purchased from an auction to be scraped. since it came out of an dodge dart(i think, but it was a car not truck), would there be that much of a clerance diffrence?

Since the ‘71 V8 A body car (Dart/Valiant) could be equipped with a 727, there should be no floor clearance issues but the driveline will still need shortening and the yoke replaced. The 727 is physically larger and this affects some of the linkage components. Most of the /6 727’s were from trucks and police/taxi car installations and these weren’t usually A body cars, so it’s unlikely it came from a Dart originally. Locate the part number stamped in the drivers side pan rail just above the pan gasket and post it here; I can tell you what it originally came in.

Response:

 have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? Changing From a 904G to a 727 in a 71 Valiant

Response:

All you should need is a shorter drive shaft. Barry A. Lee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? Changing From a 904G to a 727 in a 71 Valiant

Response:

have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up?

The 904 and 727 use a different spline on the output shaft so a different slip yoke will be needed in addition to shortening the drive shaft. Depending on whether it has a column or console shifter, some pieces of the shift linkage are different between a 904 and 727 installation. Since the 727 is most likely from a truck, the bottom of the tailhousing may not have the mounting boss for the console shifter bellcrank support.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? The 904 and 727 use a different spline on the output shaft so a different slip yoke will be needed in addition to shortening the drive shaft. Depending on whether it has a column or console shifter, some pieces of the shift linkage are different between a 904 and 727 installation. Since the 727 is most likely from a truck, the bottom of the tailhousing may not have the mounting boss for the console shifter bellcrank support.

The 225/727 was pulled out of a dodge dart I think. the car from what I have been told by the buddy that pulled it the car ran like a bat out of hell(he just forgot to pull the drive line). it was purchased from an auction to be scraped. since it came out of an dodge dart(i think, but it was a car not truck), would there be that much of a clerance diffrence?

Response:

No, you’d also need a different slip-yoke. 727 splines are different than 904 splines. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All you should need is a shorter drive shaft. Barry A. Lee  have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? Changing From a 904G to a 727 in a 71 Valiant

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – have a few questions about swapping a /6 904g with a /6 727. the reason is that the ring gear on the  torque converter on the 904 is bare and I can get a FREE 225/6 and 727, so I was thinking about just swapping the trans. I was wondering how possible this is? Will I need to replace the drive line with a shorter one? Will the shift linkage bolt right up? The 904 and 727 use a different spline on the output shaft so a different slip yoke will be needed in addition to shortening the drive shaft. Depending on whether it has a column or console shifter, some pieces of the shift linkage are different between a 904 and 727 installation. Since the 727 is most likely from a truck, the bottom of the tailhousing may not have the mounting boss for the console shifter bellcrank support. The 225/727 was pulled out of a dodge dart I think. the car from what I have been told by the buddy that pulled it the car ran like a bat out of hell(he just forgot to pull the drive line). it was purchased from an auction to be scraped. since it came out of an dodge dart(i think, but it was a car not truck), would there be that much of a clerance diffrence?

Since the ‘71 V8 A body car (Dart/Valiant) could be equipped with a 727, there should be no floor clearance issues but the driveline will still need shortening and the yoke replaced. The 727 is physically larger and this affects some of the linkage components. Most of the /6 727’s were from trucks and police/taxi car installations and these weren’t usually A body cars, so it’s unlikely it came from a Dart originally. Locate the part number stamped in the drivers side pan rail just above the pan gasket and post it here; I can tell you what it originally came in.

Response:

Question:

I asked: If you’re in a truck with a high center of gravity and you leave the pavement at 70+ miles an hour and you land on gravel or in water and your vehicle starts to vector off at about 20 degrees what is the best thing to do? We have a highrider chevy s10 and that happens to us sometimes.

And Jull responded: Ok, if you leave the pavement on a road or road course it means you put in too much input for conditions (like you were going too fast into a corner or you applied too much braking for road conditions).

Yup! Once you leave the pavement and you go into water or gravel you have many fewer options. One is the age old rule ‘in a spin both feet in, when in doubt both feet out’ In other words either stand on the brake and clutch HARD or take your feet off of everything altogether.

We’ve been doing the second, for just long enough to get the truck back under control. Fortunately the road rises steeply just at that point. Doing this helps a lot as it removes variables and allows you to concentrate on driving a straight line and/or driving back on the pavement. Most likely what you describe is not a spin so I would not suggest standing on the brakes. That might upset the vehicle enough to tip it over. This is bad on the paint .

: More than anything you want to do as little as possible. Don’t do anything fast or abruptly or aggressively. That is how you flip.

Good. Because that’s pretty much how we handle it. I would most likely either slow and stop the vehicle and then drive back on the pavement or I would reduce input by lifting off the throttle and then slowly steer back onto the road in a gradual way. Especially with gravel. It can grab your tires and debead them quite easily.

Debead? Or it can catch your tires and flip you. In gravel I always try to straighten my wheels and drive straight until I lose a lot of speed. In water it isn’t as bad because the usually the worst that can happen is that you hydroplane (which is fun but not as likely to flip you:). Unless you hydroplane into a wall or a tree.

That’s a distinct possibility. The road has steep banks at that point and woods on both sides. It doesn’t happen all the time btw. Just sometimes we don’t know what the road will be like at that point because of freezing and rains and construction vehicle caused damage. There’s another spot I was thinking about too that is on pavement. But it’s winedy hills ( sp?). The Cheif caught us on two wheels there once; boy, was he mad! That is _really_bad on the paint!

: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Oh, and how do you know what is too much speed in the corners? With street tires there is an easy way to tell. They ’sing’ when you go the right speed. Of course the real problem isn’t if you are going too fast but if you are going a speed that _you_ can handle. In our school the instructors talk about things in terms of 10/10ths. The car has 10ths as does the driver. So, if you are a new driver you might be driving at 10/10th of your ability but the car is only at 1/10th of _it’s_ ability. The trick is to _never_ go over 8/10ths of the _car’s_ ability accidentally. Sometimes one can do this on purpose but you have to be a very good driver to do this. On the road one should never go over 5/10ths of your driving ability. This gives you a large buffer of ability to work in if something happens abruptly (like a car drives right at you and you have to take evasive action).

That makes sense. I also use the sensation of body roll in trucks. This is a good indicator. The best way to do this is to take the truck out to some large open area (a parking lot on a sunday for example) and practice turning over and over at different speeds. You will eventually learn the feel of that particular vehicle and know when you can sense body roll. Trucks are so much more prone to tipping over that you have to be careful to respect this limit. Cars are more self righting if they get up on two wheels. I have found that I will feel freaked out _way_ before I am up on two wheels in a truck. I respect this limit absolutely!

We’ve been there. It’s easier to know in a small vehicle you are familiar with but how about if yo’re driving a big rig the size of a small semi? Don’t I wish!!! The biggest things I ever drove was a 79 gmc jimmy and a dodge maxi van (also known as an 18 passenger van). They were big but not really big. Some day I want to learn to drive a truck, a _real_ truck! (moving van size would be nice:)

These are a little smaller than semis. The biggest carries about 27500 lbs of water. We have a new one. It’s an automatic. The 12 speed manual was fun to drive but scary to get stopped on a one lane, steep incline, dirt road with huge ditches and soft shoulders on the side. I loved it when we would drive her. The bigger the vehicle the more you have to pay attention because it is always closer to it’s 10/10ths than you think. There is less margin for error and it is harder to fix mistakes. Always drive these things at a lower level of _your_ ability than you think you have to. You might feel comfortable at 5/10ths on the street so you should drive only at 4/10ths just to be safe.

Thanks. Can’t always do that though. Tonight we had E1-1 fishtailing on a dirt road. E1-1 carries about 10,000lbs of water plus whatever the truck herself weighs. Do you still race? Have your little ones gotten to watch you? We went out last year and the SO broke the race car We can’t figure out _how_ though so we haven’t fixed it yet. We _think_ it is the relay that controls power to the entire car. It acts like the battery is dead but it isn’t. It also isn’t the starter or the solenoid. At the moment we aren’t racing my street car because we rely on it heavily for daily driving and we aren’t in a position to get along with only one vehicle right now. So, we haven’t raced at all this year yet.

I hope you get it fixed before the season is over. Do your cars have to be specially fitted for the altitude? Yes, the kids get to watch. They are the crew They can change oil, take on and off the lug nuts, take tire temps. dust the car, wash windows, chalk tires and move tools around (like the jack or the tool box). They also like to use the screwdriver on everything (not necessarily because it needs it just that they like trying to turn screws. We have to watch that!!!). We don’t allow them to use hammers on the cars *huge grin*

I bet they love it! Thanks for the ideas, Jill. n Rainbow Colors (Jill)

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Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I asked: If you’re in a truck with a high center of gravity and you leave the pavement at 70+ miles an hour and you land on gravel or in water and your vehicle starts to vector off at about 20 degrees what is the best thing to do? We have a highrider chevy s10 and that happens to us sometimes. And Jull responded: Ok, if you leave the pavement on a road or road course it means you put in too much input for conditions (like you were going too fast into a corner or you applied too much braking for road conditions). Yup! Once you leave the pavement and you go into water or gravel you have many fewer options. One is the age old rule ‘in a spin both feet in, when in doubt both feet out’ In other words either stand on the brake and clutch HARD or take your feet off of everything altogether. We’ve been doing the second, for just long enough to get the truck back under control. Fortunately the road rises steeply just at that point.

That is _always_ the safer option. Of course on the track it scrubs off way too much speed and wastes time, but on the road the two/three seconds it takes to accelerate back up to speed is not significant. Doing this helps a lot as it removes variables and allows you to concentrate on driving a straight line and/or driving back on the pavement. Most likely what you describe is not a spin so I would not suggest standing on the brakes. That might upset the vehicle enough to tip it over. This is bad on the paint . : More than anything you want to do as little as possible. Don’t do anything fast or abruptly or aggressively. That is how you flip. Good. Because that’s pretty much how we handle it.

Probly you are overall going a bit too fast at that point on the road. Maybe try lowering your speed by just a bit just before you enter that section. I would most likely either slow and stop the vehicle and then drive back on the pavement or I would reduce input by lifting off the throttle and then slowly steer back onto the road in a gradual way. Especially with gravel. It can grab your tires and debead them quite easily. Debead?

Pop the sides of the tires off the wheel rim. Not a good thing! Ruins the tires, ruins the wheels, makes the vehicle pull severely to one side, hard on the paint. Or it can catch your tires and flip you. In gravel I always try to straighten my wheels and drive straight until I lose a lot of speed. In water it isn’t as bad because the usually the worst that can happen is that you hydroplane (which is fun but not as likely to flip you:). Unless you hydroplane into a wall or a tree. That’s a distinct possibility. The road has steep banks at that point and woods on both sides.

Definitely then you want to go just a bit slower as you enter that area if there is any chance there is water on the road! It doesn’t happen all the time btw. Just sometimes we don’t know what the road will be like at that point because of freezing and rains and construction vehicle caused damage. There’s another spot I was thinking about too that is on pavement. But it’s winedy hills ( sp?). The Cheif caught us on two wheels there once; boy, was he mad!

Probly a good idea to slow it down a bit then. Save your speed for the straight parts A water truck rolled near us and put the driver in the hosp for a long time with permanent head injuries. If he had just lifted before entering the turn he would have been ok. It’s easier to know in a small vehicle you are familiar with but how about if yo’re driving a big rig the size of a small semi? Don’t I wish!!! The biggest things I ever drove was a 79 gmc jimmy and a dodge maxi van (also known as an 18 passenger van). They were big but not really big. Some day I want to learn to drive a truck, a _real_ truck! (moving van size would be nice:) These are a little smaller than semis. The biggest carries about 27500 lbs of water. We have a new one. It’s an automatic. The 12 speed manual was fun to drive but scary to get stopped on a one lane, steep incline, dirt road with huge ditches and soft shoulders on the side. I loved it when we would drive her.

We had a guy get stuck on our driveway once. He came to bring us a load of gravel. He was in a smallish dump truck. He pulled onto a soft spot and when he tried to pull away the wheels just spun. I was afraid he was going to drift off the edge of the driveway. He was afraid he was going to dig in and have to call a tow truck. The bigger the vehicle the more you have to pay attention because it is always closer to it’s 10/10ths than you think. There is less margin for error and it is harder to fix mistakes. Always drive these things at a lower level of _your_ ability than you think you have to. You might feel comfortable at 5/10ths on the street so you should drive only at 4/10ths just to be safe. Thanks. Can’t always do that though. Tonight we had E1-1 fishtailing on a dirt road. E1-1 carries about 10,000lbs of water plus whatever the truck herself weighs.

Then I would strongly suggest practice. The more comfortable you are driving close to 10/10ths of your ability the easier it is. And the more your ability moves ‘up’ as it were. A professional race car driver can practically _sleep_ at what I consider 10/10ths of my ability. Do you still race? Have your little ones gotten to watch you? We went out last year and the SO broke the race car We can’t figure out _how_ though so we haven’t fixed it yet. We _think_ it is the relay that controls power to the entire car. It acts like the battery is dead but it isn’t. It also isn’t the starter or the solenoid. At the moment we aren’t racing my street car because we rely on it heavily for daily driving and we aren’t in a position to get along with only one vehicle right now. So, we haven’t raced at all this year yet. I hope you get it fixed before the season is over. Do your cars have to be specially fitted for the altitude?

Most of our racing is done down on the flat parts so it is ‘only’ 5 to 6 thousand feelt elevation We adjust the carb, choke or fuel injectors to match the mixture that works best at our altitude. We get the computer set to match the altitude (if it is adjustable, the older computers can’t be reset in this way). It really comes down to a feeling one has in how fast/hard to push down on the throttle during the initial take off from a stop. Once you are moving it doesn’t matter at all at only 5 or 6 thousand. Rainbow Colors (Jill) —      The colors blend, the edges soften. Swirling and mixing                    we are becoming white light.

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.   Um, okay. Just to refresh your memory, part of your original post stated exactly this: "but does anybody know if the drive shaft or anything else will have to be replaced?  How much labor do you think I would be looking at for a job like this and would this be something that I could do myself." Gee wiz, D, sounds like you are asking for a diagnosis to me. How else could the above statement be interpreted? You obviously do not read any of the VERY helpful info that Dan REGULARLY gives on this newsgroup. I can’t blame him for making a mockery of very stupid questions/responses/replys/reposts.

I read the OP differntly. He has a car with a ripped boot. He asked if anything other than the boot needed to be replaced. The car also makes a noise. The answer to his question? Very simple. It depends. On what? How long has the boot been ripped? Has the grease either left the joint or been contaminated with dirt and/or water? If so, has the joint beed worn/damaged? If so, the joint needs replacing. If not, it needs dissassembling and cleaning and repacking. If during the dissassembly, cleaning and repacking, it is determined the joint has been damaged, it requires replacement. If after the joint has been addressed, the noise remains, THEN it is time to look farther and determine : 1) if the noise is abnormal 2) if the noise indicates something serious 3) what is causing the noise. THEN the issue of how to correct it can be answered. As for the inner joint boots ripping on Chrysler front wheel drive vehicles, it is a common occurence – even when the engine mounts are good and properly adjusted – and it can happen on either side. Another reason for "preventative" maintenance. When the car is on the hoist for an oil change, things like axle boots are readily checked and you KNOW they have been damaged for less than 3 months when they are discovered – ASSUMING you are either doing the maintenance yourself and know what you are doing, or you have a real mechanic, not a lube shop droid doing the maintenance. In most cases, a joint that has had a cracked boot for less than 3 months can be put back in service with  a clean/lube/replace boot. In MOST cases, one that has been open for 4 or more months has suffered damage requiring replacement. Not to say a joint cannot get enough water and dirt into it in a week to do damage, or that a joint can NOT go six months without being damaged – but the odds are against both.

Response:

It has become obvious to me that you don’t know what you’re talking about, because you are spending more time making stupid jokes than answering a question.  If you can’t answer it, then just leave it be. You haven’t drove this car, you haven’t even seen it and I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.  Mechanics charge to look at/work on vehicles.  I wouldn’t pay for your worthless advice anyway.  I haven’t been anything but respectful to all of you and it seems to me like all you have to do is piss people off.  Well fine, you aren’t the only person in the world that knows something, if anything, about cars. Get a life!

Response:

It has become obvious to me that you don’t know what you’re talking about

Suit yourself. I’ve owned a total of four and maintained a total of six of your exact vehicle. I guess you’re right, though, I must not know what I’m talking about. because you are spending more time making stupid jokes than answering a question.

I guess you’re right. That whole thing about how your noise is caused by the engine mount, and there being an exact procedure for centering the engine to correct this noise, and the procedure being contained on pages 9-12 to 9-13 of the factory serbive manual under "ENGINE MOUNTS", with further information about solving this noise contained in Technical Service Bulletin number 090192? All that stuff? Just forget it. It was all a stupid joke. If you can’t answer it, then just leave it be.

I guess you must be right, I can’t answer it. You haven’t drove this car, you haven’t even seen it and I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it

That is exactly what you asked. I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.

That is exactly what you got. (Though, remember, it was all a big made-up joke.) I wouldn’t pay for your worthless advice anyway.

Good thing it costs $0.00, then. I haven’t been anything but respectful to all of you

Yeah, because lamely answering "I didn’t think the same people would answer the question when I asked this time" is being all respectful ‘n’ stuff. and it seems to me like all you have to do is piss people off.

Well, gosh, darn, you caught me. I guess the jig is up and I can no longer post accurate and precise information in response to anybody’s questions, complete with references to factory documentation, because Mr. D has figured me out. Shee-yoot, now I’m all sad and mopey.

Response:

I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.  

Um, okay. Just to refresh your memory, part of your original post stated exactly this: "but does anybody know if the drive shaft or anything else will have to be replaced?  How much labor do you think I would be looking at for a job like this and would this be something that I could do myself." Gee wiz, D, sounds like you are asking for a diagnosis to me. How else could the above statement be interpreted? You obviously do not read any of the VERY helpful info that Dan REGULARLY gives on this newsgroup. I can’t blame him for making a mockery of very stupid questions/responses/replys/reposts. — Nick

Response:

Here’s a link that will give you an *idea* what is involved,, not exactly the same but close… courtesy of Paul Smith and whatever manual he pirated for the pics.. http://www.turbovan.net/axlechng.htm The job is charged 2 hours in Chicago (~125/hr here) and the part is about $70 so it’s about $300 to have it done here. My *free* advice is if you are going to do it yourself ,, take it to a local rebuilder and have them rebuild it for you.. I for one have had terrible results from the chains  (Peps, Murrays, and Autozone)  dunno about NAPA none close to me,, they just don’t hold up..Although if you go to poops and have it done, they may have an extended warranty on it if you don’t mind going back again and again. I had 4 of those cars over the years,, 3 Acclaims and 1 Spirit,, all 4cyls,, and put almost a million miles on them..and they all had that noise.. These are just absolutely awesome vehicles,, In all those miles,, NEVER left me stranded once..  Fix it until the body falls off. Repad the seats,, overhaul engines, trans,, whatever..!!  Believe me ,, once you get *spoiled* by the cheap operation of this vehicle,, you will be spoiled forever..

Response:

You know watching Dan Stern post over the years in everything from bobistheoilman.com forums to the Shelby Dodge forums, one thing is clear: The guy knows what he’s talking about. He comes off as cynical sometimes but there’s always at least a valid suggestion for the presented problem, especially when it comes to automotive lighting, but in general technical areas as well. I’d cut him some slack and brush it off if you don’t like what you’re being told.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It has become obvious to me that you don’t know what you’re talking about, because you are spending more time making stupid jokes than answering a question.  If you can’t answer it, then just leave it be. You haven’t drove this car, you haven’t even seen it and I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.  Mechanics charge to look at/work on vehicles.  I wouldn’t pay for your worthless advice anyway.  I haven’t been anything but respectful to all of you and it seems to me like all you have to do is piss people off.  Well fine, you aren’t the only person in the world that knows something, if anything, about cars. Get a life!

Response:

It has become obvious to me that you don’t know what you’re talking about, because you are spending more time making stupid jokes than answering a question.  If you can’t answer it, then just leave it be. You haven’t drove this car, you haven’t even seen it and I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.  Mechanics charge to look at/work on vehicles.  I wouldn’t pay for your worthless advice anyway.  I haven’t been anything but respectful to all of you and it seems to me like all you have to do is piss people off.  Well fine, you aren’t the only person in the world that knows something, if anything, about cars. Get a life!

Response:

It has become obvious to me that you don’t know what you’re talking about

Suit yourself. I’ve owned a total of four and maintained a total of six of your exact vehicle. I guess you’re right, though, I must not know what I’m talking about. because you are spending more time making stupid jokes than answering a question.

I guess you’re right. That whole thing about how your noise is caused by the engine mount, and there being an exact procedure for centering the engine to correct this noise, and the procedure being contained on pages 9-12 to 9-13 of the factory serbive manual under "ENGINE MOUNTS", with further information about solving this noise contained in Technical Service Bulletin number 090192? All that stuff? Just forget it. It was all a stupid joke. If you can’t answer it, then just leave it be.

I guess you must be right, I can’t answer it. You haven’t drove this car, you haven’t even seen it and I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it

That is exactly what you asked. I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.

That is exactly what you got. (Though, remember, it was all a big made-up joke.) I wouldn’t pay for your worthless advice anyway.

Good thing it costs $0.00, then. I haven’t been anything but respectful to all of you

Yeah, because lamely answering "I didn’t think the same people would answer the question when I asked this time" is being all respectful ‘n’ stuff. and it seems to me like all you have to do is piss people off.

Well, gosh, darn, you caught me. I guess the jig is up and I can no longer post accurate and precise information in response to anybody’s questions, complete with references to factory documentation, because Mr. D has figured me out. Shee-yoot, now I’m all sad and mopey.

Response:

I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.  

Um, okay. Just to refresh your memory, part of your original post stated exactly this: "but does anybody know if the drive shaft or anything else will have to be replaced?  How much labor do you think I would be looking at for a job like this and would this be something that I could do myself." Gee wiz, D, sounds like you are asking for a diagnosis to me. How else could the above statement be interpreted? You obviously do not read any of the VERY helpful info that Dan REGULARLY gives on this newsgroup. I can’t blame him for making a mockery of very stupid questions/responses/replys/reposts. — Nick

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.   Um, okay. Just to refresh your memory, part of your original post stated exactly this: "but does anybody know if the drive shaft or anything else will have to be replaced?  How much labor do you think I would be looking at for a job like this and would this be something that I could do myself." Gee wiz, D, sounds like you are asking for a diagnosis to me. How else could the above statement be interpreted? You obviously do not read any of the VERY helpful info that Dan REGULARLY gives on this newsgroup. I can’t blame him for making a mockery of very stupid questions/responses/replys/reposts.

I read the OP differntly. He has a car with a ripped boot. He asked if anything other than the boot needed to be replaced. The car also makes a noise. The answer to his question? Very simple. It depends. On what? How long has the boot been ripped? Has the grease either left the joint or been contaminated with dirt and/or water? If so, has the joint beed worn/damaged? If so, the joint needs replacing. If not, it needs dissassembling and cleaning and repacking. If during the dissassembly, cleaning and repacking, it is determined the joint has been damaged, it requires replacement. If after the joint has been addressed, the noise remains, THEN it is time to look farther and determine : 1) if the noise is abnormal 2) if the noise indicates something serious 3) what is causing the noise. THEN the issue of how to correct it can be answered. As for the inner joint boots ripping on Chrysler front wheel drive vehicles, it is a common occurence – even when the engine mounts are good and properly adjusted – and it can happen on either side. Another reason for "preventative" maintenance. When the car is on the hoist for an oil change, things like axle boots are readily checked and you KNOW they have been damaged for less than 3 months when they are discovered – ASSUMING you are either doing the maintenance yourself and know what you are doing, or you have a real mechanic, not a lube shop droid doing the maintenance. In most cases, a joint that has had a cracked boot for less than 3 months can be put back in service with  a clean/lube/replace boot. In MOST cases, one that has been open for 4 or more months has suffered damage requiring replacement. Not to say a joint cannot get enough water and dirt into it in a week to do damage, or that a joint can NOT go six months without being damaged – but the odds are against both.

Response:

You know watching Dan Stern post over the years in everything from bobistheoilman.com forums to the Shelby Dodge forums, one thing is clear: The guy knows what he’s talking about. He comes off as cynical sometimes but there’s always at least a valid suggestion for the presented problem, especially when it comes to automotive lighting, but in general technical areas as well. I’d cut him some slack and brush it off if you don’t like what you’re being told.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It has become obvious to me that you don’t know what you’re talking about, because you are spending more time making stupid jokes than answering a question.  If you can’t answer it, then just leave it be. You haven’t drove this car, you haven’t even seen it and I wasn’t asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the problem "might" be.  Mechanics charge to look at/work on vehicles.  I wouldn’t pay for your worthless advice anyway.  I haven’t been anything but respectful to all of you and it seems to me like all you have to do is piss people off.  Well fine, you aren’t the only person in the world that knows something, if anything, about cars. Get a life!

Response:

Here’s a link that will give you an *idea* what is involved,, not exactly the same but close… courtesy of Paul Smith and whatever manual he pirated for the pics.. http://www.turbovan.net/axlechng.htm The job is charged 2 hours in Chicago (~125/hr here) and the part is about $70 so it’s about $300 to have it done here. My *free* advice is if you are going to do it yourself ,, take it to a local rebuilder and have them rebuild it for you.. I for one have had terrible results from the chains  (Peps, Murrays, and Autozone)  dunno about NAPA none close to me,, they just don’t hold up..Although if you go to poops and have it done, they may have an extended warranty on it if you don’t mind going back again and again. I had 4 of those cars over the years,, 3 Acclaims and 1 Spirit,, all 4cyls,, and put almost a million miles on them..and they all had that noise.. These are just absolutely awesome vehicles,, In all those miles,, NEVER left me stranded once..  Fix it until the body falls off. Repad the seats,, overhaul engines, trans,, whatever..!!  Believe me ,, once you get *spoiled* by the cheap operation of this vehicle,, you will be spoiled forever..

Response:

Question:

A price war drove it briefly down to $0.21/litre or $0.76 U.S. gallon. Price per U.S. gal in U.S. dollars at the time would have been:  $0.61.  -Rich

Response:

** A price war drove it briefly down to $0.21/litre or $0.76 U.S. gallon. ** Price per U.S. gal in U.S. dollars at the time would have been:  $0.61. **  -Rich Bring that battle to the States!  I’m old enough to remember .61 cent/gal. fuel back in 1976 here in Killafornia.  Smokes were about six bucks a carton, cold brew hovered around $3.00 for a 6′er o’ long-neck bottles, and newspapers were still a dime.  A phone call ran you a thin dime as well, and cars with Kettering ignition systems (points!) were still being sold. Men were still men, and women were …well, all hot-n-lusty babes, especially the Disco Queens.  Travolta and the Bee Gee’s ruled, Journey and Deep Purple were rockin’ hard, and the streets were ruled by Mustangs, Camaros and Dodge Challenger 426-hemi’s.  And you could still get some of that good-smelling 103 octane pump fuel for a song.  AIDS didn’t keep you celibate,  and angry, ugly short-haired, suburban diesel-dike cell-phone-SUV-tailgating-Starbuck-suckin’ morons didn’t have their entire winkled, pimply FACE pressed into your ass every minute you drove somewhere.  Shit, times were good!  You could still get laid at the Motor Movies, cruise malls and just hang out with your friends without cops beating the piss out of you for breathing wrong.  Good weed was plentiful, potent and cheap, and did I mention, the gals were cute as hell and fun to hang out with? God I miss the 70’s.  <sniff. -JD Enlightenment for The Masses: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams

Response:

The tree fort I built in 1975 had a gas station sign on a piece of plywood with 39.9 cents painted on it. That’s an IMPERIAL gallon. My dad drove a Marquis with a 429 4V in it at the time. What a great old barge! Then again the car was $4,000 new and our house cost 17,000 dollars and the old man was well paid at 20K a year. StuK

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ** A price war drove it briefly down to $0.21/litre or $0.76 U.S. gallon. ** Price per U.S. gal in U.S. dollars at the time would have been:  $0.61. **  -Rich Bring that battle to the States!  I’m old enough to remember .61 cent/gal. fuel back in 1976 here in Killafornia.  Smokes were about six bucks a carton, cold brew hovered around $3.00 for a 6′er o’ long-neck bottles, and newspapers were still a dime.  A phone call ran you a thin dime as well, and cars with Kettering ignition systems (points!) were still being sold. Men were still men, and women were …well, all hot-n-lusty babes, especially the Disco Queens.  Travolta and the Bee Gee’s ruled, Journey and Deep Purple were rockin’ hard, and the streets were ruled by Mustangs, Camaros and Dodge Challenger 426-hemi’s.  And you could still get some of that good-smelling 103 octane pump fuel for a song.  AIDS didn’t keep you celibate,  and angry, ugly short-haired, suburban diesel-dike cell-phone-SUV-tailgating-Starbuck-suckin’ morons didn’t have their entire winkled, pimply FACE pressed into your ass every minute you drove somewhere.  Shit, times were good!  You could still get laid at the Motor Movies, cruise malls and just hang out with your friends without cops beating the piss out of you for breathing wrong.  Good weed was plentiful, potent and cheap, and did I mention, the gals were cute as hell and fun to hang out with? God I miss the 70’s.  <sniff. -JD Enlightenment for The Masses: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams

Response:

: A price war drove it briefly down to $0.21/litre or $0.76 U.S. gallon. : Price per U.S. gal in U.S. dollars at the time would have been:  $0.61. :  -Rich I can remember paying about $1.40/gallon in Texas in late spring/early summer 1981. And those were 1981 dollars. It was not the best time to be driving a ‘66 Mustang V8 that averaged about 13-14 mpg, aside from the fact that anytime is a good time to be driving a ‘66 Mustang. Paul

Response:

** A price war drove it briefly down to $0.21/litre or $0.76 U.S. gallon. ** Price per U.S. gal in U.S. dollars at the time would have been:  $0.61. **  -Rich Bring that battle to the States!  I’m old enough to remember .61 cent/gal. fuel back in 1976 here in Killafornia.  

   That was after the hike. I bought my GT/CS in Aug of ‘73, and I remember cursing ‘cuz Texaco premium just jumped to .36/gallon. Smokes were about six bucks a carton,

   They *only* thing I smoked was tires. Several times. cold brew hovered around $3.00 for a 6′er o’ long-neck bottles,

   I remember getting sick on Tequila and Southern Comfort. Several times. and newspapers were still a dime.  A phone call ran you a thin dime as well, and cars with Kettering ignition systems (points!) were still being sold.

   Points rock. Proves your a man. Men were still men, and women were …well, all hot-n-lusty babes, especially the Disco Queens.

   Gotta love them. I did. Several times. Travolta and the Bee Gee’s ruled, Journey and Deep Purple were rockin’ hard, and the streets were ruled by Mustangs, Camaros and Dodge Challenger 426-hemi’s.  And you could still get some of that good-smelling 103 octane pump fuel for a song.  

   We used to get 115 green gas from the local short track supplier for .60 a gallon. AIDS didn’t keep you celibate,  and angry, ugly short-haired, suburban diesel-dike cell-phone-SUV-tailgating-Starbuck-suckin’ morons didn’t have their entire winkled, pimply FACE pressed into your ass every minute you drove somewhere.

   Celibate, my ass, that description’s enough to make me go impotent. Several times. Shit, times were good!  You could still get laid at the Motor Movies, cruise malls and just hang out with your friends without cops beating the piss out of you for breathing wrong.  Good weed was plentiful, potent and cheap, and did I mention, the gals were cute as hell and fun to hang out with? God I miss the 70’s.  <sniff.

   Me, too.  <sniff. several times    CobraJet – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – -JD Enlightenment for The Masses: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams

Response:

Question:

HOWEDY Samantha,

I am not going to say either way my opinion between high-priced pedigree dogs vs. free/lowpriced just as fun mutts .

FREE is always good unless it’s stolen or kidnapped off the street like a few of HOWER dog lovers are known to have done to acquire their dogs. HOWEver, the industry today markets mix or cross breed pupies in upscale malls and puppy mill pet shops for obscene prices. That’s up to the consumer "whatever the market will bear" is the American Way. HOWEver, misrepresentation of quality and "bogus" registrations and erroneHOWES or fraudulent documentation are legal issues pertinent to any industry. But here is a great website that may be able to tell you of a breeder locally in the states . This website is based in Australia . http://www.rutlandmanor.com

Very interesting. Looks like a nice breed. Looks like they’ve taken the ideas of Louis Doberman and put them into action for their own preference for a new breed X. The Amazing Puppy Wizard neither agrees or disagrees with information on that site as HE hasn’t read it in depth. The prices of the pups were not fHOWEND. SBA

HOWER dog lovers LOVE to blame commercial breeders and pet shops as bein the VILLIAN in having to MURDER millions of dogs every year. Here’s a typical puppy mill pet shop raised dog goin through the typical life of a modern dog in a ordinary upscale HOWES: Starr’s Story To whom it may concern, My name is Crystal Arcidy I am the proud owner of a beautiful 3 year old white German Shepherd named Starr. I am writing to inform you of a training method that is truly amazing. Starr is by nature very cautious and fearful and because of this and my not knowing how to handle it she became environmentally shy as well. Before Starr came into my life I never would have believed that a dog could be the way she was unless it had been badly abused or trained to be aggressive. Now I’m finding out more and more that there are lots of dogs with serious behavior problems who were never abused, but mishandled. Before I tell you about my experience with Jerry Howe, Doggy Do Right, and  the Wits End Dog Training Technique I would like to relate to you Starr’s story so you’ll have a better understanding as to what I was dealing with: Starr was three months old when I brought her home from a local pet shop. A few days later a friend came by to see her and that was when I first saw that Starr was by no means friendly. She was so shy she tried to pull away and hide. I was told that dogs go through a "fear stage" and thought that was all I was dealing with. But after a week or two Starr began barking protectively at  guests and neighbors from inside the house. The only way I could stop the barking, and later howling, was if I picked her up and held her. Outside Starr’s behavior was not protective it was horribly fearful. It got  to the point that when I would ask, "You want to go outside?" Starr would run the other way and dodge me so I would make her go. She went out only to relieve herself and then she’d dash back to the house. I could not take her for walks and she wouldn’t even sit on my back deck without crying. Starr was afraid of other dogs, people, cars, loud noises, open spaces….everything. I was sure that she had the potential of becoming a fear biter and that worried me. I spoke with an amateur dog trainer who said that shepherd’s are sometimes fearful as puppies, especially females, and that training and socializing would help. She said I could bring Starr to the vet and just sit with her so she could watch the other dogs. But Starr was a nervous wreck in the vets. She would get in a corner and shake terribly. It didn’t seem like it was helping at all with my dog’s anxiety and I asked the vet what to do to get her over her fears. The doctor recommended a trainer/behaviorist and we called and set up a meeting. And so I took Starr to her first trainer at six months old. She was terrified. The trainer assured me that he could ‘get her through’ her fears. He explained to me how training would lessen Starr’s anxiety and build confidence. Because Starr was so timid he wanted to start out with clicker training. He said it was the best form of training for shy dogs. He instructed me to get a thin three foot stick to be the focus, the object being Starr would learn to follow the stick. Every time she touched it with her nose she got a click and a treat. After I got Starr home it only took about a minute for Starr to get the idea. But these results were restricted to inside my house. When I took Starr outside or to her lessons she was just too nervous to care about eating. The reward was not worth it. All Starr wanted was to get back  to the house, where she felt safe. When the trainer realized that Starr was too uncomfortable at his place he suggested we meet and work at my house. It was then that he saw that Starr was not going to progress using the clicker training. [Forcing food into her mouth didn't make her want to eat it] So he reverted to conventional methods. *(The "BALANCED TRAINER" IOW, knows WHEN to HURT… jh.) We started using a flat collar but with all the pulling Starr would do the trainer quickly advised me to purchase a choke chain. I did so and he showed me how to use it. I was very hesitant but he assured me that I could not hurt the dog. We continued working in an area Starr was pretty comfortable in, then proceeded out to the street.  Starr was very scared and would bolt, whine, shake horribly and grind her teeth. All of which got corrected by a quick, sharp jerk on the chain and a firm "No!" Of course now I know that these firm corrections were just creating more anxiety for my dog. But at the time it seemed to make sense. After seeing how afraid Starr actually was on the street the trainer told me to get some Serene-um, an herbal product that would calm her down. It took the edge off her fear, but I had to give her beyond  the dosage recommended for her weight. The trainer said that was fine. He also told me that putting her on adult food would help. That  way she wouldn’t have as much energy that was just being turned into nervous energy and making her worse. I changed her food and he later recommended senior food. I decided against that. The trainer told me not to speak reassuringly when Starr was scared because she would think she was being praised for being afraid, that I wanted that behavior. He told me never to praise her for barking because it would encourage aggression. When Starr would bark at the neighbors dog aggressively I was to force her into a submissive down, the Alpha Rollover, which I was never able to maneuver. I told the trainer that Starr was still uncontrollable even with the choker. Her fear seemed more important than the pain she experienced from the collar. He suggested getting her a Gentle Leader. Its worn around the dog’s head. I’m sure you’re familiar with the product. This gave me more control over her bolting but when she got spooked by something she would pull away and reared up like a wild horse. It was very difficult to get her to calm down even a little after she had gone to this extreme. I later found out that I was misdirected on how to use the Gentle Leader. After about seven months of this Starr had made very little progress. She knew all the commands and would do them perfect when calm, but the fear and anxiety were still there and still very much in control of her. The trainer thought she was all right and told me he was happy with the results. At that point I was hardly listening to anything he said. I knew he was trying to help but I also knew that Starr was beyond him and I had already set up a meeting with another trainer, one that came highly recommended. The second trainer referred to her place as doggy boot camp and said that kind of discipline and structure is what dogs, especially  dogs like Starr, really needed. She was a breeder of German  Shepherds and several of her dogs were used in movies and as therapy and protection dogs. *(Our "ETHICAL" breeders… jh.) She told me that Starr needed to get away from me, her ’security blanket’ and learn to be on her  own. She told me that when I got Starr back she would be a totally different dog. I left Starr for eleven days with this trainer. When I went to pick her up I was informed that Starr had been hiding for the first three days of her stay. But the trainer was happy with her progress. When Starr was brought out I was told to ignore her until the trainer said it was okay and even then I couldn’t pet her or kneel down to see her. [I still don't know why.] My formerly 65 lb. German Shepherd looked like a Greyhound she was so thin. But she did look much more confident. Her face seemed relaxed, but her tail was tucked up  under her. When I asked about that the trainer said it was nothing. She said her tail was not suppose to curl up the way it did. I was then informed that I needed to buy a pinch collar and leather leash. Starr was too strong and determined in her pulling for me to get by with just the choker. [ This trainer laughed at the Gentle Leader and said it was not a training tool.] The trainer showed me how to use the collar and I flinched as she did and Starr let out a  sharp cry. The trainer noticed my reaction and insisted that she wasn’t hurting my dog, saying that I have to stop treating Starr like a ‘piece of china’, saying that she was a strong dog and needed to be told who was boss. I accepted what she said and she proceeded to teach me all that she had taught Starr. She used the word ‘Here’ instead of ‘Come’ saying that it sounded nicer to the dog and more inviting. I was told that its best if when called Starr comes right up close, attaining physical contact. Everything seemed to be going well, though I … read more »

Response:

I am not going to say either way my opinion between high-priced pedigree dogs vs. free/lowpriced just as fun mutts . But here is a great website that may be able to tell you of a breeder locally in the states . This website is based in Australia . http://www.rutlandmanor.com SBA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – HOWEDY Master Of Deception blankman, Those RESPONSIBLE breeders you’re talkin abHOWET are no better than the puppymillers. You’re a FRAUD a LIAR a DOG ABUSER and a MENTAL CASE. The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~  )   Arkansas is almost as bad as Mo. for puppy mills nad BYB’s. why would anyone want a high priced mixbreed? Why would anyone want a high priced dog of any kind?  Presumably it is because they think it has some qualities they want or need.  The primary inherent difference between mixed breeds and purebreds is predictability. That alone does not seem to me sufficient to warrant adding dogs to the population.  Especially since that predictability really only applies to breedings where the breeder has half a clue.  Crossbreeds such as the poo mixes have greater predicatablity than random breds, but less than carefully bred purebreds.  I still don’ think that’s enough to justify adding more dogs to the population.  However, I don’t want dogs to become extinct and I’d rather our genetic material tend to the healthy. I’m not going to argue against ALL breeding.  Instead I want to know if the breeder is working on pushing that genetic material toward healthy, if the breeder actually cares a nickel about the dogs, and if the breeder will cross hell and high water to prevent the dogs created from dying unwanted. I am strongly in favor of keeping firmly focussed on the PROBLEM.  And educating and advocating that people make choices that do not contribute to the problem.  We might disagree on what that problem is, but in my opinion the mere fact that a dog is not purebred is NOT the problem.  The number one problem is breeders who will place without taking steps to make sure the dog they place isn’t dumped.  The number two problem is people who get dogs without being prepared to provide for their needs. Predicatability can help with problem number two and is thus a benefit to dogs, as much as I prefer and adore my own mixed breeds.  Good health is more difficult to accomplish with random breeding.  But lousy purebred breeding is worse than random breeding.  So to focus on the PROBLEM it isn’t mixed breed vs purebred, it is LOUSY CARELESS breeding of any kind whatsoever. So MY QUESTION  is Why would anyone want a high priced poorly bred dog? And why would anyone want to encourage breeding without concern for the health and welfare of the dog – regardless of whether it is mixed or purebred? — Diane Blackman http://dog-play.com/ http://dog-play.com/shop2.html

Response:

HOWEDY Master Of Deception blankman, Those RESPONSIBLE breeders you’re talkin abHOWET are no better than the puppymillers. You’re a FRAUD a LIAR a DOG ABUSER and a MENTAL CASE. The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~  )  

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Arkansas is almost as bad as Mo. for puppy mills nad BYB’s. why would anyone want a high priced mixbreed? Why would anyone want a high priced dog of any kind?  Presumably it is because they think it has some qualities they want or need.  The primary inherent difference between mixed breeds and purebreds is predictability. That alone does not seem to me sufficient to warrant adding dogs to the population.  Especially since that predictability really only applies to breedings where the breeder has half a clue.  Crossbreeds such as the poo mixes have greater predicatablity than random breds, but less than carefully bred purebreds.  I still don’ think that’s enough to justify adding more dogs to the population.  However, I don’t want dogs to become extinct and I’d rather our genetic material tend to the healthy. I’m not going to argue against ALL breeding.  Instead I want to know if the breeder is working on pushing that genetic material toward healthy, if the breeder actually cares a nickel about the dogs, and if the breeder will cross hell and high water to prevent the dogs created from dying unwanted. I am strongly in favor of keeping firmly focussed on the PROBLEM.  And educating and advocating that people make choices that do not contribute to the problem.  We might disagree on what that problem is, but in my opinion the mere fact that a dog is not purebred is NOT the problem.  The number one problem is breeders who will place without taking steps to make sure the dog they place isn’t dumped.  The number two problem is people who get dogs without being prepared to provide for their needs. Predicatability can help with problem number two and is thus a benefit to dogs, as much as I prefer and adore my own mixed breeds.  Good health is more difficult to accomplish with random breeding.  But lousy purebred breeding is worse than random breeding.  So to focus on the PROBLEM it isn’t mixed breed vs purebred, it is LOUSY CARELESS breeding of any kind whatsoever. So MY QUESTION  is Why would anyone want a high priced poorly bred dog? And why would anyone want to encourage breeding without concern for the health and welfare of the dog – regardless of whether it is mixed or purebred? — Diane Blackman http://dog-play.com/ http://dog-play.com/shop2.html

Response:

Question:

To limit the penetration depth of a drill bit, you can slip a piece of vacuum hose over the bit. For those a little more daring and/or "surefooted", a piece of tape around the bit as a depth "flag" also works well. Even more dangerous (damaging?) is drilling the hole just the way you want and then absentmindedly winding a 2 inch long screw into the hole… the stories I could tell if we only had the time….

I can give you a quick one. Another guy in the shop (when I used to spend my days building police cars) put in the video system on a CV. Of course, the lockdown unit goes in the trunk and he used the wrong screws to secure it. 2 days later the car comes back and the driver is a BIT upset. He was getting a wee bit woozy while driving from the gas fumes. Don Manning – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jim Warman Unless your shooting for a really fancy install, I’d just go with the back of the rear fold down seats.  Now, if you want to expand on that a bit you can build an amp rack and mount it to the floor.  If it were me, I’d lower the tank via a floor jack just enough to ensure your not drilling into the tank, fuel lines, etc.  It’s really the safest way. Don’t guess…KNOW what is underneath whatever your drilling In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes. Mike 1995 Eagle Talon TSi

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Best one I ever saw was an in-car warmer (you have to live where it gets cold for that one) installed in a new late 80s Dodge car. The logic module on these was behind the right kick panel……. unfortunately, the DIYer decided that the right kick panel was the ideal place for the in car warmer….. the in car warmer had 4 mounting screws…… needless to say, the warranty claim was denied but the module is still making the rounds here in Alberta as a "perfect" example….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To limit the penetration depth of a drill bit, you can slip a piece of vacuum hose over the bit. For those a little more daring and/or "surefooted", a piece of tape around the bit as a depth "flag" also works well. Even more dangerous (damaging?) is drilling the hole just the way you want and then absentmindedly winding a 2 inch long screw into the hole… the stories I could tell if we only had the time…. I can give you a quick one. Another guy in the shop (when I used to spend my days building police cars) put in the video system on a CV. Of course, the lockdown unit goes in the trunk and he used the wrong screws to secure it. 2 days later the car comes back and the driver is a BIT upset. He was getting a wee bit woozy while driving from the gas fumes. Don Manning Jim Warman Unless your shooting for a really fancy install, I’d just go with the back of the rear fold down seats.  Now, if you want to expand on that a bit you can build an amp rack and mount it to the floor.  If it were me, I’d lower the tank via a floor jack just enough to ensure your not drilling into the tank, fuel lines, etc.  It’s really the safest way. Don’t guess…KNOW what is underneath whatever your drilling In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes. Mike 1995 Eagle Talon TSi — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I’ve always got time to hear those kind of stories!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To limit the penetration depth of a drill bit, you can slip a piece of vacuum hose over the bit. For those a little more daring and/or "surefooted", a piece of tape around the bit as a depth "flag" also works well. Even more dangerous (damaging?) is drilling the hole just the way you want and then absentmindedly winding a 2 inch long screw into the hole… the stories I could tell if we only had the time…. Jim Warman Unless your shooting for a really fancy install, I’d just go with the back of the rear fold down seats.  Now, if you want to expand on that a bit you can build an amp rack and mount it to the floor.  If it were me, I’d lower the tank via a floor jack just enough to ensure your not drilling into the tank, fuel lines, etc.  It’s really the safest way. Don’t guess…KNOW what is underneath whatever your drilling In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes. Mike 1995 Eagle Talon TSi

Response:

Crutchfield used to recommend that you mount the amp to a board then mount the board to the car.  In my application I used double sided tape and just taped the amp to bare metal.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Can anyone give me advice on mounting amplifiers in my rear trunk? In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes. Thanks, John

Response:

Hi, Can anyone give me advice on mounting amplifiers in my rear trunk? In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes. Thanks, John

Response:

Unless your shooting for a really fancy install, I’d just go with the back of the rear fold down seats.  Now, if you want to expand on that a bit you can build an amp rack and mount it to the floor.  If it were me, I’d lower the tank via a floor jack just enough to ensure your not drilling into the tank, fuel lines, etc.  It’s really the safest way. Don’t guess…KNOW what is underneath whatever your drilling   In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes.

Mike 1995 Eagle Talon TSi

Response:

Thanks for the reply. What do you mean the floor?  Inside the passenger compartment? John

Response:

I cut a piece of mdf the shape of my trunk and mounted two amps and braces for a dual 12" enclosure. Carpeted it, too. Worked great! Cindy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Can anyone give me advice on mounting amplifiers in my rear trunk? In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes. Thanks, John

Response:

To limit the penetration depth of a drill bit, you can slip a piece of vacuum hose over the bit. For those a little more daring and/or "surefooted", a piece of tape around the bit as a depth "flag" also works well. Even more dangerous (damaging?) is drilling the hole just the way you want and then absentmindedly winding a 2 inch long screw into the hole… the stories I could tell if we only had the time…. Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Unless your shooting for a really fancy install, I’d just go with the back of the rear fold down seats.  Now, if you want to expand on that a bit you can build an amp rack and mount it to the floor.  If it were me, I’d lower the tank via a floor jack just enough to ensure your not drilling into the tank, fuel lines, etc.  It’s really the safest way. Don’t guess…KNOW what is underneath whatever your drilling In my 2002 GT it looks like the gas tank is right underneath, so I’m a little nervous about drilling holes. Mike 1995 Eagle Talon TSi

Response:

Question:

Hi Matt, Had the same problem about a year after I purchassed my 96 Dodge Caravan… Problem was in the sensor located inside the gas tank with the pump assembly….. Had to get it replaced….only thing mine at the time was under waranty….good luck Latter…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

I had it done a few years ago and can’t remember how much I paid.  Probably around $300 parts/labor.  I’ve done this job on my ‘88 and am familiar with that, but not the ‘96.  I imagine you have to drop the fuel tank to get access to the sending unit.  Dropping the fuel tank has some complications the first timer will need to prepare for, such as preventing the vent hose from breaking, spilling fuel, disconnecting the filler tube and supporting the tank while it’s unbolted.  The other thing is cleaning the top of the tank to prevent dust from falling in (and fouling the fuel pump).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David: Do you recall what the cost of sending unit replacement was? Do you know where is the sending unit located, is it an easy DIY? Thanks Matt ‘This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump ‘module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had ‘my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for ‘it. ‘ ‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt

Response:

David: Do you recall what the cost of sending unit replacement was? Do you know where is the sending unit located, is it an easy DIY? Thanks Matt ‘This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump ‘module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had ‘my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for ‘it. ‘ ‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt

Response:

There isn’t one on the module, it’s on the gasket and nut. Quite often they wind up having to replace the module, and the tank because things don’t go back together right, and it leaks. It happened to mine, and both of the Caravans my parents owned. The idea here is that if they have to mess with it anyway, let them, and if they break it, or find it broken, it’ll be be fixed. If the gauge still wanders after they’re done, ask why the gauge keeps wandering.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for it. Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall. In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall. In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

The fan relay recall was done a few years ago but that was the last recall notice that I ever received.  My address is unchanged and I never received a notice on this in tank ‘fuel pump module’ recall.  I would greatly appreciate if you could indicate the recall number and any other info that is available to you.

Yes, Bob – if you could please post the recall number, or how to locate it I, too, would appreciate it. Thanks! R. Phillips

Response:

There’s several for that vehicle. I had one. Look here for details: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/ Also, you need to complain about the airbag light coming on intermittantly. They need to replace the clockspring, but they won’t do it until it fails – SRS light = open circuit to airbag squib = airbag inoperable. I tried to get them to fix it prior to the recall. I got to pay for the clockspring, and no, I cannot get a refund because I don’t own the vehicle anymore. Recall number for fuel tank: 99V216000

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ‘Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still ‘jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They ‘had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. ‘Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to ‘replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall. ‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt ‘ Thanks for the reply Bob. The fan relay recall was done a few years ago but that was the last recall notice that I ever received.  My address is unchanged and I never received a notice on this in tank ‘fuel pump module’ recall.  I would greatly appreciate if you could indicate the recall number and any other info that is available to you. Thanks, again Matt ‘

Response:

‘Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still ‘jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They ‘had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. ‘Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to ‘replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall.

‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt ‘ Thanks for the reply Bob. The fan relay recall was done a few years ago but that was the last recall notice that I ever received.  My address is unchanged and I never received a notice on this in tank ‘fuel pump module’ recall.  I would greatly appreciate if you could indicate the recall number and any other info that is available to you. Thanks, again Matt ‘

Response:

Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

‘Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still ‘jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They ‘had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. ‘Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to ‘replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall.

‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt ‘ Thanks for the reply Bob. The fan relay recall was done a few years ago but that was the last recall notice that I ever received.  My address is unchanged and I never received a notice on this in tank ‘fuel pump module’ recall.  I would greatly appreciate if you could indicate the recall number and any other info that is available to you. Thanks, again Matt ‘

Response:

The fan relay recall was done a few years ago but that was the last recall notice that I ever received.  My address is unchanged and I never received a notice on this in tank ‘fuel pump module’ recall.  I would greatly appreciate if you could indicate the recall number and any other info that is available to you.

Yes, Bob – if you could please post the recall number, or how to locate it I, too, would appreciate it. Thanks! R. Phillips

Response:

There’s several for that vehicle. I had one. Look here for details: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/ Also, you need to complain about the airbag light coming on intermittantly. They need to replace the clockspring, but they won’t do it until it fails – SRS light = open circuit to airbag squib = airbag inoperable. I tried to get them to fix it prior to the recall. I got to pay for the clockspring, and no, I cannot get a refund because I don’t own the vehicle anymore. Recall number for fuel tank: 99V216000

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ‘Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still ‘jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They ‘had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. ‘Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to ‘replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall. ‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt ‘ Thanks for the reply Bob. The fan relay recall was done a few years ago but that was the last recall notice that I ever received.  My address is unchanged and I never received a notice on this in tank ‘fuel pump module’ recall.  I would greatly appreciate if you could indicate the recall number and any other info that is available to you. Thanks, again Matt ‘

Response:

This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall. In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

There isn’t one on the module, it’s on the gasket and nut. Quite often they wind up having to replace the module, and the tank because things don’t go back together right, and it leaks. It happened to mine, and both of the Caravans my parents owned. The idea here is that if they have to mess with it anyway, let them, and if they break it, or find it broken, it’ll be be fixed. If the gauge still wanders after they’re done, ask why the gauge keeps wandering.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for it. Go get the recall done for the in tank fuel pump module. If the gauge still jumps all over the place, go back and complain to the dealer about it. They had to replace the module, and the tank because they screwed up the recall. Also, get the fan relay recall done too. The dealer destroyed and had to replace the PCM in the process of doing that recall. In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response:

David: Do you recall what the cost of sending unit replacement was? Do you know where is the sending unit located, is it an easy DIY? Thanks Matt ‘This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump ‘module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had ‘my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for ‘it. ‘ ‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt

Response:

I had it done a few years ago and can’t remember how much I paid.  Probably around $300 parts/labor.  I’ve done this job on my ‘88 and am familiar with that, but not the ‘96.  I imagine you have to drop the fuel tank to get access to the sending unit.  Dropping the fuel tank has some complications the first timer will need to prepare for, such as preventing the vent hose from breaking, spilling fuel, disconnecting the filler tube and supporting the tank while it’s unbolted.  The other thing is cleaning the top of the tank to prevent dust from falling in (and fouling the fuel pump).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David: Do you recall what the cost of sending unit replacement was? Do you know where is the sending unit located, is it an easy DIY? Thanks Matt ‘This problem sounds like a bad sending unit.  Is that part of the fuel pump ‘module?  I wasn’t aware there was a recall on the fuel pump module.  I had ‘my sending unit replace a few years ago for this exact problem and paid for ‘it. ‘ ‘ In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over ‘ the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in ‘ motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel ‘ tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away ‘ for weeks at a time only to come back later. ‘ ‘ What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this ‘ problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire ‘ harness under the hood. ‘ ‘ Any help would be greatly appreciated. ‘ ‘ Matt

Response:

Hi Matt, Had the same problem about a year after I purchassed my 96 Dodge Caravan… Problem was in the sensor located inside the gas tank with the pump assembly….. Had to get it replaced….only thing mine at the time was under waranty….good luck Latter…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In my Dodge Caravan ‘96 (3.0L engine) the fuel gauge jumps all over the place and triggers the sound of low fuel level, when vehicle is in motion, especially when I break.  It happens more frequently when fuel tank is full or close to this level.  Sometimes the problems goes away for weeks at a time only to come back later. What is causing it, and where exactly should I look to fix this problem, I do not see any loose wire connection or damage to a wire harness under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

Response: