Question:

George, For situation 2, it is quite noraml for the wheel nuts to heat up after driving for a while. Part of the heat comes from braking and part from the transmission. As a result, the front wheels’ nuts are hotter the rear. I once owned an Accord and now a Civic, and both of their front wheels’ nuts are hotter after some driving. The reason I first noticed that they are hot is that I saw some smoke coming out from  the inside of the front wheels when I once washed the car immediately after a 20 minutes highway driving. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 2001 Accord LX-V6 with standard wheel covers. Situation 1: About 2 months ago I noticed that the surface of the right front wheel cover was peeling and losing its silver and clear coat coating in spots outside the lug nut area. At first I thought I might have scraped up against something, but I didn’t remember having done so and the flaking is happening as circles, not scrapes. The flaking continues to get worse. Now I have noticed that the flaking is starting to happen with the remaining three wheel covers as well, although in this case the flaking is happening right around the lug nuts and inside the H logo at the center of the wheel covers. This got me to thinking that this summer I started to use one of those soft-cloth car washes that pulls the car through on a track and maybe that is what is causing this flaking problem with the wheel covers. (But why wouldn’t I see a ton of other cars around with this same flaking problem?) What do you think? Situation 2: Yesterday I stopped by a hubcap shop to buy a replacement for the right front. In the process of checking things out on my car I noticed that the front lug nuts on both sides were so hot that I could hardly keep my finger on them. The rear lug nuts were warm. I had been doing about 15 minutes of highway driving. Is it normal for the front lug nuts to get so hot? Is it possible that something is up with my brakes which is generating extra heat which is contributing to the wheel covers flaking? My brake service has always been done at the dealer, and in informal testing yesterday, when I put my car in neutral on a gentle incline it rolled freely . . . What do you think? George

Response:

"George Earl" wrote This got me to thinking that this summer I started to use one of those soft-cloth car washes that pulls the car through on a track and maybe that is what is causing this flaking problem with the wheel covers. (But why wouldn’t I see a ton of other cars around with this same flaking problem?) What do you think?

That would be my guess, too.  Most of those automatic car washes use very strong detergents, and when you drive into cool water with hot wheels/hubcaps, it’s bound to take its toll eventually.  I bought a few-year-old Nissan Stanza once – its hubcaps were similarly destroyed. And I’ve seen a bunch of other cars looking like that on the roads as well. I always let my wheels cool off for at least half hour before washing because they can get pretty hot at times.  Drastic temp. changes (like when you pour cool water on hot surfaces) aren’t too good for the paint finish. Cheers, Pete

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 2001 Accord LX-V6 with standard wheel covers. Situation 1: About 2 months ago I noticed that the surface of the right front wheel cover was peeling and losing its silver and clear coat coating in spots outside the lug nut area. At first I thought I might have scraped up against something, but I didn’t remember having done so and the flaking is happening as circles, not scrapes. The flaking continues to get worse. Now I have noticed that the flaking is starting to happen with the remaining three wheel covers as well, although in this case the flaking is happening right around the lug nuts and inside the H logo at the center of the wheel covers. This got me to thinking that this summer I started to use one of those soft-cloth car washes that pulls the car through on a track and maybe that is what is causing this flaking problem with the wheel covers. (But why wouldn’t I see a ton of other cars around with this same flaking problem?) What do you think?

i think you ought to take them off, lightly scuff sand, then repaint with a silver paint made for wheel covers. theyll look good. Situation 2: Yesterday I stopped by a hubcap shop to buy a replacement for the right front. In the process of checking things out on my car I noticed that the front lug nuts on both sides were so hot that I could hardly keep my finger on them. The rear lug nuts were warm. I had been doing about 15 minutes of highway driving. Is it normal for the front lug nuts to get so hot?

IMO, no. id jack up the front end, remove both wheels, and turn the rotors by hand to check for dragging. id also check the condition of the pads as well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is it possible that something is up with my brakes which is generating extra heat which is contributing to the wheel covers flaking? My brake service has always been done at the dealer, and in informal testing yesterday, when I put my car in neutral on a gentle incline it rolled freely . . . What do you think? George

Response:

I have a 2001 Accord LX-V6 with standard wheel covers. Situation 1: About 2 months ago I noticed that the surface of the right front wheel cover was peeling and losing its silver and clear coat coating in spots outside the lug nut area. At first I thought I might have scraped up against something, but I didn’t remember having done so and the flaking is happening as circles, not scrapes. The flaking continues to get worse. Now I have noticed that the flaking is starting to happen with the remaining three wheel covers as well, although in this case the flaking is happening right around the lug nuts and inside the H logo at the center of the wheel covers. This got me to thinking that this summer I started to use one of those soft-cloth car washes that pulls the car through on a track and maybe that is what is causing this flaking problem with the wheel covers. (But why wouldn’t I see a ton of other cars around with this same flaking problem?) What do you think? Situation 2: Yesterday I stopped by a hubcap shop to buy a replacement for the right front. In the process of checking things out on my car I noticed that the front lug nuts on both sides were so hot that I could hardly keep my finger on them. The rear lug nuts were warm. I had been doing about 15 minutes of highway driving. Is it normal for the front lug nuts to get so hot? Is it possible that something is up with my brakes which is generating extra heat which is contributing to the wheel covers flaking? My brake service has always been done at the dealer, and in informal testing yesterday, when I put my car in neutral on a gentle incline it rolled freely . . . What do you think? George

Response:

Question:

No complaint. Cheers Jim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Portnoy ? Oh boy, I’m glad you said it was the leather seats – I’ll have to try that one on my family the next time I detonate inside the car. If your going to start seat sniffing then at least let them know why. might save some embarrassment. AJS — X-No-Archive: Yes

Response:

Oh boy, I’m glad you said it was the leather seats – I’ll have to try that one on my family the next time I detonate inside the car.

If your going to start seat sniffing then at least let them know why. might save some embarrassment. AJS

Response:

Portnoy ? Oh boy, I’m glad you said it was the leather seats – I’ll have to try that one on my family the next time I detonate inside the car. If your going to start seat sniffing then at least let them know why. might save some embarrassment. AJS

– X-No-Archive: Yes

Response:

Anyone here have or know personally of perons who suffer from the smells set-off by the materilas in a Nissan X-trail series 1 with the leather seat

Oh boy, I’m glad you said it was the leather seats – I’ll have to try that one on my family the next time I detonate inside the car.

Response:

Yes. People have allergies to certain chemicals, I do and some smells that others like, make me sick or fill up my sinuses bad. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33×9.5 BFG Muds, ‘glass nose to tail in ‘00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT’s – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone here have or know personally of perons who suffer from the smells set-off by the materilas in a Nissan X-trail series 1 with the leather seat option? My missus gets sick from the X trail which we have had for a year, but never had the problem in a new Holden Commodore VX.

Response:

Anyone here have or know personally of perons who suffer from the smells set-off by the materilas in a Nissan X-trail series 1 with the leather seat option? My missus gets sick from the X trail which we have had for a year, but never had the problem in a new Holden Commodore VX.

Response:

There’s nothing more reassuring than the smell of a new car.  Ever since the car was invented, it’s a feeling that motorists have treasured.  But following ground breaking research, Australian scientists have warned that the smell of a new car actually contains high levels of toxic air emissions that are making some drivers ill.  We’re all aware of the problems associated with exhaust emissions.  But pollution inside the car is something that hasn’t received much attention.  So, what have scientists found?  According to a report by Reuters, a study by Australians main scientific body, the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO), found high levels of toxic emissions for up to six months and longer after the cars left the showroom. "Just as air inside our homes and workplaces are often much more polluted than the air outside, so sitting in a new car can expose you to levels of toxic emissions many times beyond (health guideline) goals," said Steve Brown, head of the CSIRO’s air quality control research unit. The toxic emissions they had found included benzene, acetone, ethylbenzene and  xylene isomers. "To avoid some exposure to this toxic cocktail, people who buy new cars should make sure that there is plenty of outside air entering the vehicle while they drive,: Brown said. In other words, keep your windows open. The two year study of three new vehicles found anecdotal evidence that drivers were becoming ill when they drove their cars. A lawyer reported being ill with headaches, lung irritation and swellings for several days after collecting a new car and driving it for only ten minutes.  When he swapped his new car for an 18 month old one, his symptoms disappeared. A public servant felt ill when driving a new government car for the first six months, a chemically sensitised person felt "Spaced out" when driving a new car and a salesperson who regularly updated his car became lethargic on long trips. The study found two new Australian made cars had very high levels of volatile organic compounds, up to 64,000 micrograms per cubic metre, three to ten weeks after manufacture.  A control group of people exposed to half this amount reported within minutes feeling discomfort, drowsiness, fatigue and confusion headaches and eye, ear and nose irritation. The CSIRO said the toxic air emissions decrease 60 percent in the first month but where still well above the Australian recommended health level of 500 micrograms per cubic metre. A third car in the study was imported to Australia, but four months after manufacture it contained 2,000 micrograms per cubic metre. "This is still four times more than the recommended goal and remains a concern," said Brown. Regardless of whether or not you’ve just bought your car, or driving a new hire car, the CSIRO message seems clear. With new cars, they recommend that you keep your windows open for six months. Or at least until the ‘New car’ smell fade’s away. Courtesy of the RACQ "Road Ahead" magazine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone here have or know personally of perons who suffer from the smells set-off by the materilas in a Nissan X-trail series 1 with the leather seat option? My missus gets sick from the X trail which we have had for a year, but never had the problem in a new Holden Commodore VX.

Response:

There’s nothing more reassuring than the smell of a new car.  Ever since the car was invented, it’s a feeling that motorists have treasured.  But following ground breaking research, Australian scientists have warned that the smell of a new car actually contains high levels of toxic air emissions that are making some drivers ill.

Just look at the crap that vapor-deposits on the windshield of a new vehicle! Glenn

Response:

| | There’s nothing more reassuring than the smell of a new car.  Ever since the | car was invented, it’s a feeling that motorists have treasured.  But | following ground breaking research, Australian scientists have warned that | the smell of a new car actually contains high levels of toxic air emissions | that are making some drivers ill. | | Just look at the crap that vapor-deposits on the windshield of a new vehicle! | | Glenn | Yes, I’ve noticed the haze too. Same think happens when one has new carpet, paint, draperies or floor refinishing etc. done in their homes.

Response:

| | Yes, I’ve noticed the haze too. | | Same think happens when one has new carpet, paint, draperies or floor | refinishing etc. done in their homes. | | Outgassing, nothing new, been happening for years. | | Yep.  The only difference is that lawyers are likely involved now…so it’s a "new" issue and many thousands are being harmed significantly enough to be made millionaires.  I wonder if the silliness will ever end!

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Question:

Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!!  Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats.  Are you one of those folks ?? -ERIC 89 5.0 LX Vert w/93 Cobra long block, GT-40 heads, Unknown Camshaft(??), HyperTech Chip, 73mm C&L MAF, BBK 2.5" O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series Deltas,  King Cobra Clutch Set, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Poly bushings.

Response:

While if I were to buy a new Cobra or Mach it would not likely see anything but fair weather use, it would most definately be driven home!! Kind of reminds me years ago when I was in the market for my first new Explorer.  Stopped in and was talking to a salesman.  I asked if I could take one on the lot for a test drive, and he said I could only do that if I was ready to buy.  I left and took my $25k to a dealership that was a bit more buyer friendly. Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!!  Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats.  Are you one of those folks ?? -ERIC 89 5.0 LX Vert w/93 Cobra long block, GT-40 heads, Unknown Camshaft(??), HyperTech Chip, 73mm C&L MAF, BBK 2.5" O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series Deltas,  King Cobra Clutch Set, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Poly bushings.

Response:

Yeah I *hate* dealerships (especially the smaller ones) where you can only get decent service if you’ve got a fat wallet ready to hand over to ‘em. -Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While if I were to buy a new Cobra or Mach it would not likely see anything but fair weather use, it would most definately be driven home!! Kind of reminds me years ago when I was in the market for my first new Explorer.  Stopped in and was talking to a salesman.  I asked if I could take one on the lot for a test drive, and he said I could only do that if I was ready to buy.  I left and took my $25k to a dealership that was a bit more buyer friendly. Jason Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!!  Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats.  Are you one of those folks ?? -ERIC 89 5.0 LX Vert w/93 Cobra long block, GT-40 heads, Unknown Camshaft(??), HyperTech Chip, 73mm C&L MAF, BBK 2.5" O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series Deltas,  King Cobra Clutch Set, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Poly bushings.

Response:

The sales manager at my dealer insisted I take a nice long test drive before I bought my Mach 1, so I grabbed  the young 21 y/o salesman helping me and took him for a real ride!  I thanked them by laying about 300 feet of rubber across the front of the building after I signed the paperwork.  That was October, and they’re still talking about it! For those of you wondering… I bought the Mach I tested, since I knew for sure it ran like it had demons in the fuel tank…  I had bought 3 Dodge Rams from that sales manager when he worked for the Dodge dealership… He knew I wouldn’t be looking if I wasn’t serious. I’m sure he’ll get more of my money when I go back for that F-250 later in the year.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While if I were to buy a new Cobra or Mach it would not likely see anything but fair weather use, it would most definately be driven home!! Kind of reminds me years ago when I was in the market for my first new Explorer.  Stopped in and was talking to a salesman.  I asked if I could take one on the lot for a test drive, and he said I could only do that if I was ready to buy.  I left and took my $25k to a dealership that was a bit more buyer friendly. Jason Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!!  Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats.  Are you one of those folks ?? -ERIC 89 5.0 LX Vert w/93 Cobra long block, GT-40 heads, Unknown Camshaft(??), HyperTech Chip, 73mm C&L MAF, BBK 2.5" O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series Deltas,  King Cobra Clutch Set, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Poly bushings.

Response:

Now I see why the recent posts imply NC is somewhat behind the times, Jan 1 we brought the old car in , talked to the salesman for about 2 min, he copied my liscense and handed us the keys. (bought it the same day) but no one rode with us on the test drive.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!!  Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats.  Are you one of those folks ?? -ERIC 89 5.0 LX Vert w/93 Cobra long block, GT-40 heads, Unknown Camshaft(??), HyperTech Chip, 73mm C&L MAF, BBK 2.5" O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series Deltas,  King Cobra Clutch Set, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Poly bushings.

Response:

I would never buy *any* car without driving it first.  I would walk from any dealer that tells me I can’t drive my prospective purchase.  If that was my only choice, I’d ask to speak with the owner – not the manager.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!!  Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats.  Are you one of those folks ?? -ERIC 89 5.0 LX Vert w/93 Cobra long block, GT-40 heads, Unknown Camshaft(??), HyperTech Chip, 73mm C&L MAF, BBK 2.5" O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series Deltas,  King Cobra Clutch Set, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Poly bushings.

Response:

Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!!  Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats.  Are you one of those folks ??

Not in this lifetime.  In fact,  I got a ride in a yellow 2003 Mach-1 and the salesman almost ran a Nissan 350 off the highway!  It was fun. -Rich

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – wrote something wonderfully witty: Old news I’m sure, but I don’t frequent the VULTURES at Car Dealerships to often. OK, maybe you can get a Test drive for a NEW Cobra or Mach I, but only a REAL SHORT one at that!! Salesman said ALOT of Cobra/Mach I new buyers trailer their cars off the lot. Also, alot of the new buyers want the plastic still kept on the seats. Are you one of those folks ?? Don’t know where & how you conduct your business, but I have never been refused a test-drive on any car.

  I wasn’t seriously looking to buy, so I didn’t push the issue.  The reason for the SHORT test drive they say is cause folks that DO buy them want the lowest possible mileage on them when they get them. That’s understandable cause I bet most folks the test drive these cars beat the piss out of them.  I know I would !! -ERIC 89 5.0 LX Vert w/93 Cobra long block, GT-40 heads, Unknown Camshaft(??), HyperTech Chip, 73mm C&L MAF, BBK 2.5" O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series Deltas,  King Cobra Clutch Set, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Poly bushings.   Last week I was making the – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – rounds of the local Ford dealerships shopping for a ne F-150.  At the same dealer I bought my `01 ragtop from  the sales monkey and I cruised their lot looking for trucks configured the way I want. Suddenly a yellow & black Mach I starts whispering my name I stop and start goggling it.  Sales monkey asks if I’m interested.  I tell him no the wife would kill me if I came home in that.  So I finish up my mental masturbation, find a truck, go for a test drive.  When we get back I park next to that Mach I and start into drooling on it again. Sales monkey asks if I want to take it for a spin, already has the temp plate from the truck.  I tell him no if I drive it I’ll want to buy it and just can’t at this time.  He says aww what the hell, let’s go for a joy ride then.   I think the sales monkey want to go as bad as I did.  At that point there was no resistance left in me an off we went, 40 minutes or so later we pulled back in after putting her through her paces.  I’m not going to say she was put up wet, but she certainly was breathing hard.  Or was that me? Whether he did it thinking I would buy the truck out of gratitude for the joy ride (truck is more expensive then the Mach I) or perhaps the greedy little bastard thought I would buy both, I don’t know. However, that dealership will be # 1 on my go to list from now on. As to what I would do with a Cobra or Mach I after purchasing it, I would drive it hard and I would drive it daily.  That is the reason the boys in the factory engineer and build them.  I don’t need any garage jewelry. I have been told I am not allowed to use a broadsword to disprove

Question:

1996 Nissan 4×2 king cab pickup. Just bought used with 65,000 miles. Shocks are worn but not leaking, I want to replace them for the best ride possable. I travel 30 miles each way to work. all highway. Is there much difference between the $20 ~ $30 ~ $50 shocks I see At the local autoparts or sears store? I wont haul heavy loads very often. Back and forth to work with occasional trips to the lumber yard and dump. Thanks for any advice on choosing shocks! Steve

Response:

1996 Nissan 4×2 king cab pickup. Just bought used with 65,000 miles. Shocks are worn but not leaking, I want to replace them for the best ride possable. I travel 30 miles each way to work. all highway. Is there much difference between the $20 ~ $30 ~ $50 shocks I see At the local autoparts or sears store? I wont haul heavy loads very often. Back and forth to work with occasional trips to the lumber yard and dump. Thanks for any advice on choosing shocks! Steve

For your truck I would advice you to find someplace local that deals with trucks (locally we have a place called TRICK TRUCKS) which deals in aftermarket everything for trucks … and the guys there do know trucks …and they know suspensions etc…. I play with 60 era muscle cars and Corvettes as a hobby  and I prefer KYB brand shocks (not the  gray ones the white ones…forget the actual model numbers ) for those cars as it stiffens up the outdated suspensions …on my newer vehicles I perfer Blistein (spelling ?) but again individual model numbers from each manufacturer all differ in REBOUND AND COMPRESSION VALVING… and until you get a handle on what works for you on each individual vehicle you are guessing… Forget Pep Boys, Sears etc..and find a TRUCK place ask a bunch of questions and you may  get what you want …(always a chance that dumb dumb is working so you are always taking a chance… ).. Sorry there is just no single answer to your question…except that a 20 buck shock will not preform as well for as long as a 50 buck shock…but that same 20 buck may still be a better shock for what you need and want…         Bob Griffiths  

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Question:

Don’t you have a Powersmoke though Chris. I would expect any decent diesel would out pull most any gasser <g. I like the torque of the V10, wouldn’t mind having over 400 lb/ft.

Yep.  It is even enough most of the time.  In the hills, though, it will downshift, unfortunately.  Oh well, I guess I’ll never be satisfied.

Response:

Don’t you have a Powersmoke though Chris. I would expect any decent diesel would out pull most any gasser <g. I like the torque of the V10, wouldn’t mind having over 400 lb/ft. Yep.  It is even enough most of the time.  In the hills, though, it will downshift, unfortunately.  Oh well, I guess I’ll never be satisfied.

Sounds like you "need" to chip it then <g. Or go for granny gearing for the axles. A friend of ours has had several F350 crew cabs for pulling his 5th wheel. He added a chip, don’t know which one, which he only used when towing. Nice truck. I think the last one he had is/was an ‘02. He had a nice ‘00 same model, but got such a good deal for a new one he decided to change trucks. Now he’s got a National V10 powered motorhome but he ain’t too happy with it. He had to get the roof replaced last year because of leakage. I wouldn’t be surprised to see him pull in with his 5th wheel. He went from a really nice three slide model with washer/dryer to a lot less room in the motorhome. HD in NY

Response:

Don’t you have a Powersmoke though Chris. I would expect any decent diesel would out pull most any gasser <g. I like the torque of the V10, wouldn’t mind having over 400 lb/ft. Yep.  It is even enough most of the time.  In the hills, though, it will downshift, unfortunately.  Oh well, I guess I’ll never be satisfied.

Dodge is getting ready to introduce a new truck called the SRT-10. It uses the Viper motor. 500 hp and 525 lb-ft torque. I bet this thing will suck down plenty of gas.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It looks decent in the horsepower department, but the torque seems a little weak to haul that sort of a load.  Combine that with 17-inch wheels, and I suspect it’ll need a 4.10 or numerically higher to do what they claim.  I’d rather have a v10 or diesel to haul that kind of load.  All I could find was on the nissanusa web page, and it didn’t mention rear-end ratio or anything about any possible towing limitations such as frontal area. According to this web page <http://www.freshalloy.com/site/cars/nissan/2004/titan/roadtest/home.s… it looks like 90% of maximum torque is available from 2600 rpm up and since it’s got 379 lb/ft, that’s a lot. It really sounds like they did their homework on this package. It won’t be worth a darn though towing a long heavy trailer. In a couple of driving impressions I read, the drivers commented on how "good" the ride was. Not hard but smooth. That doesn’t speak well for a heavy 30′ trailer whipping its butt around. It’s the stiffer suspension of this ‘03 Ram that makes it good for towing.

That could definitely be a problem.  The torque isn’t near as good as on my f350, so I still suspect with a heavy trailer it will spend a lot of time wound up in a lower gear.  I’m impressed that they have a locking differential option available, that would be handy in the mud. Who knows, maybe they’ve got something there, time will tell.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On a related topic, has anyone seen the new Nissan Titan yet?  The specs sound promising. Jim I saw the specs.  It took me a bit of time to stop laughing.  Only question I have is what rear-end ratio are they going to put under it so it can tow that weight?  It’ll have to be pretty low and they’ll have to do a lot of work to keep the cab quiet enough with the engine having to run 4-5krpm just to tow at a reasonable speed.

Are they that under powered? HD in NY

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I saw the specs.  It took me a bit of time to stop laughing.  Only question I have is what rear-end ratio are they going to put under it so it can tow that weight?  It’ll have to be pretty low and they’ll have to do a lot of work to keep the cab quiet enough with the engine having to run 4-5krpm just to tow at a reasonable speed. Are they that under powered?

It looks decent in the horsepower department, but the torque seems a little weak to haul that sort of a load.  Combine that with 17-inch wheels, and I suspect it’ll need a 4.10 or numerically higher to do what they claim.  I’d rather have a v10 or diesel to haul that kind of load.  All I could find was on the nissanusa web page, and it didn’t mention rear-end ratio or anything about any possible towing limitations such as frontal area. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -HD in NY

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I saw the specs.  It took me a bit of time to stop laughing.  Only question I have is what rear-end ratio are they going to put under it so it can tow that weight?  It’ll have to be pretty low and they’ll have to do a lot of work to keep the cab quiet enough with the engine having to run 4-5krpm just to tow at a reasonable speed. Are they that under powered? It looks decent in the horsepower department, but the torque seems a little weak to haul that sort of a load.  Combine that with 17-inch wheels, and I suspect it’ll need a 4.10 or numerically higher to do what they claim.  I’d rather have a v10 or diesel to haul that kind of load.  All I could find was on the nissanusa web page, and it didn’t mention rear-end ratio or anything about any possible towing limitations such as frontal area.

According to this web page <http://www.freshalloy.com/site/cars/nissan/2004/titan/roadtest/home.s… it looks like 90% of maximum torque is available from 2600 rpm up and since it’s got 379 lb/ft, that’s a lot. It really sounds like they did their homework on this package. It won’t be worth a darn though towing a long heavy trailer. In a couple of driving impressions I read, the drivers commented on how "good" the ride was. Not hard but smooth. That doesn’t speak well for a heavy 30′ trailer whipping its butt around. It’s the stiffer suspension of this ‘03 Ram that makes it good for towing. HD in NY

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snipped That could definitely be a problem.  The torque isn’t near as good as on my f350, so I still suspect with a heavy trailer it will spend a lot of time wound up in a lower gear.  I’m impressed that they have a locking differential option available, that would be handy in the mud. Who knows, maybe they’ve got something there, time will tell.

Don’t you have a Powersmoke though Chris. I would expect any decent diesel would out pull most any gasser <g. I like the torque of the V10, wouldn’t mind having over 400 lb/ft. HD in NY

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As the original poster, thanks everyone for the comments.  By the way, it may not matter but the actual maximum total trailer weight of those I looked at was 6,600#, most were a couple hundred # less. On a related topic, has anyone seen the new Nissan Titan yet?  The specs sound promising. Jim

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On a related topic, has anyone seen the new Nissan Titan yet?  The specs sound promising. Jim

I saw the specs.  It took me a bit of time to stop laughing.  Only question I have is what rear-end ratio are they going to put under it so it can tow that weight?  It’ll have to be pretty low and they’ll have to do a lot of work to keep the cab quiet enough with the engine having to run 4-5krpm just to tow at a reasonable speed.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – snipped HD Which issue of Trailer Life was that test in? Couldn’t find it. Max It’s the December, ‘03 issue. The Durango is on page 23 and the F150 is on page 40. I’ll give the pertinent specs I’m referring to; Durango towing a 6,800 lb boat. This wasn’t a full blown test. 0 to 60 – 21.0 seconds 40 to 60 – 10.9 seconds F150 towing an Outback 28′, 6,240 lbs. This was a test. 0 to 60 – 32 seconds 40 to 60 – 14.6 seconds HD in NY

Found it. Thanks. That new Hemi is impressive.  My only problem with Dodge was with body integrity. Not so much from any personal experience but from anecdotes from friends, etc.  If Dodge has that problem solved they’ve got a real winner. Max

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As the original poster, thanks everyone for the comments.  By the way, it may not matter but the actual maximum total trailer weight of those I looked at was 6,600#, most were a couple hundred # less. On a related topic, has anyone seen the new Nissan Titan yet?  The specs sound promising. Jim

I was intriged by the new Nissan Pathfinder Armada – 5.6 300 hp V8 with towing spec of 9,100 lbs. Ya, right! Like the Durango specs. And expensive! Marv

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snipped Found it. Thanks. That new Hemi is impressive.  My only problem with Dodge was with body integrity. Not so much from any personal experience but from anecdotes from friends, etc.  If Dodge has that problem solved they’ve got a real winner. Max

We’ll see in about 8 or so years <g. This is probably our last tow vehicle. By the time we would need to replace it, I’ll be too damn old to haul a big trailer over the road. I’m hoping DC has cured the problems of the past and I don’t have to trade this puppy for a different make. So far it has been good, with the exception of the windshield washer motor which is being replaced Monday morning. There are no noises in it from poor fitting parts and the exhaust sound is worth the price of admission <g. It made the trip from central NY to Smithfield, NC with ease. Nice ride, good company and decent mileage. HD in NY

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You won’t be happy with that size truck and engine/differential combination pulling a 7000 lb. trailer, IMO.

Rich is right, I have a trailer that weighed a bit less dry, I dragged it home from the dealer using my 1/2 ton Suburban with a 5.7 engine… the truck wasn’t powerful enough.  1/2 ton trucks are basically grocery haulers.  When looking for a tow vehcile to tow a heavy trailer go to a 3/4 ton truck.   I sold my 1/2 ton, got the 3/4 ton and never looked back. Hunter http://members.aol.com/airstm2268/roadtrip2003.htm

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You won’t be happy with that size truck and engine/differential combination pulling a 7000 lb. trailer, IMO. Rich is right, I have a trailer that weighed a bit less dry, I dragged it home from the dealer using my 1/2 ton Suburban with a 5.7 engine… the truck wasn’t powerful enough.  1/2 ton trucks are basically grocery haulers.  When looking for a tow vehcile to tow a heavy trailer go to a 3/4 ton truck.   I sold my 1/2 ton, got the 3/4 ton and never looked back. Hunter http://members.aol.com/airstm2268/roadtrip2003.htm

I’m laughing at that Hunter. Too compare the 5.7L you had to the new 5.3L is not realistic. I think the advice to get the 2500 which comes with the 6.0L is good, not because the 1500 can’t pull the 7,000 lb trailer but because the 5.3L is at its limit doing it. On the other hand, the Ram 1500 with the Hemi is more than capable ot towing the 7,000 lb trailer. And safely too. The F150 with the 5.4L is in the same boat as the GM 5.3L, at the end of it’s limit. The 5.7L Hemi is just getting started at 7,000 lbs. HD in NY

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I’m laughing at that Hunter. Too compare the 5.7L you had to the new 5.3L is not realistic. I think the advice to get the 2500 which comes with the 6.0L is good, not because the 1500 can’t pull the 7,000 lb trailer but because the 5.3L is at its limit doing it. On the other hand, the Ram 1500 with the Hemi is more than capable ot towing the 7,000 lb trailer. And safely too. The F150 with the 5.4L is in the same boat as the GM 5.3L, at the end of it’s limit. The 5.7L Hemi is just getting started at 7,000 lbs.

My 2004 F-150 4×4 is rated for 8800 lbs. It is 300 hp/365 ft-lbs torque and could probably handle the same weight that the Hemi does.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m laughing at that Hunter. Too compare the 5.7L you had to the new 5.3L is not realistic. I think the advice to get the 2500 which comes with the 6.0L is good, not because the 1500 can’t pull the 7,000 lb trailer but because the 5.3L is at its limit doing it. On the other hand, the Ram 1500 with the Hemi is more than capable ot towing the 7,000 lb trailer. And safely too. The F150 with the 5.4L is in the same boat as the GM 5.3L, at the end of it’s limit. The 5.7L Hemi is just getting started at 7,000 lbs. My 2004 F-150 4×4 is rated for 8800 lbs. It is 300 hp/365 ft-lbs torque and could probably handle the same weight that the Hemi does.

Nope. Take a look at the latest issue of Trailer Life. I thought so too until I read that. The test they did with the ‘04 Durango and the ‘04 F150 was an eye-opener. Putting aside whether the two vehicles should be towing a 7,000 lb trailer, the Durango with it’s detuned engine, walked all over the 5.4L F150. I was really surprised as I expected the 5.4L to do nearly as well as the Hemi. It didn’t. The Ram Hemi should widen the gap even more. HD in NY

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I am currently looking to trade up to a 1/2 ton with the intention of buying a travel trailer.  Having seen so many people with mismatched vehicles/trailers I am looking at both at the same time to be sure of a correct match. Any trailer that I am interested in weighs in around the 6000lb (dry), 7000lb (loaded), range. For various reasons we have decided on the Sierra/Silverado(1500 2WD) with the 5.3V8 and 3.73 axle along with the trailer package which gives a tow rating of 8100lbs

I don’t think you’ll be satisfied with the pulling power of the 5.3L, 3.73 combination.  The 6.0L is available in a 1/2 ton but I would strongly recommend getting a 3/4 ton. The brakes, springs, axles, frame members, etc. are stronger. (all info you can get from the dealer) I pull a 7200 (loaded) trailer with a Sierra 2500HD, 6.0L, 4.10 axle and while I’m satisfied with the performance I wouldn’t want to pull anything heavier. So I am not sure what to say to the truck dealer – is the class 3/4 OK

Non issue. Just to add to the confusion, I am aware of other hitches like PullRite and Hensley($$)and was wondering if I should try out the regular hitch with all the WD gear first

Any RV dealer worth doing business with will include the hitch in the sale so ask him for a hitch from Equal-i-zer (www.equalizerhitch.com). The weight distributing bars on that particular hitch also serve as sway dampeners and the hitch is not significantly more expensive than others in that category. Notice I didn’t say sway "control". No such thing. Thanks for any advice to a newbie. Jim

Good luck, Max

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snipped I don’t think you’ll be satisfied with the pulling power of the 5.3L, 3.73 combination.  The 6.0L is available in a 1/2 ton but I would

snipped And, it was a 2500 in disguise, not a 1500. That was a good pick for serious towing but GM dropped it. The same basic truck can be bought as a standard 2500. HD in NY

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Nope. Take a look at the latest issue of Trailer Life. I thought so too until I read that. The test they did with the ‘04 Durango and the ‘04 F150 was an eye-opener. Putting aside whether the two vehicles should be towing a 7,000 lb trailer, the Durango with it’s detuned engine, walked all over the 5.4L F150. I was really surprised as I expected the 5.4L to do nearly as well as the Hemi. It didn’t. The Ram Hemi should widen the gap even more. HD in NY

HD Which issue of Trailer Life was that test in? Couldn’t find it. Max

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snipped HD Which issue of Trailer Life was that test in? Couldn’t find it. Max

It’s the December, ‘03 issue. The Durango is on page 23 and the F150 is on page 40. I’ll give the pertinent specs I’m referring to; Durango towing a 6,800 lb boat. This wasn’t a full blown test. 0 to 60 – 21.0 seconds 40 to 60 – 10.9 seconds F150 towing an Outback 28′, 6,240 lbs. This was a test. 0 to 60 – 32 seconds 40 to 60 – 14.6 seconds It isn’t a real close comparison but you can see how much stronger the Hemi was than the 5.4L. It really surprised me as the axle ratios were in the F150s favor. The Durango had P245/75R/17s and 3.55 gears, while the F150 had 265/60R/18s with 3.73 gears. I didn’t check the actual diameters of each tire size and compare the effective ratios but on the surface they look close. I could understand a little about the 0 to 60 time if I look at the low gear ratio of the Dodge. It has a 3:1 first gear but that doesn’t explain the 40 to 60 passing test difference. Like I said, the Hemi is slightly detuned for the Durango. It puts out 330 hp and 370 lb/ft compared to 345 hp and 375 lb/ft for the Ram Hemi. In any case, I’m glad the Ford dealer didn’t bother calling me back when he found a truck that matched my specs <g. The Dodge dealer was glad to get my ‘02 Sierra in trade. HD in NY

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I am currently looking to trade up to a 1/2 ton with the intention of buying a travel trailer.  Having seen so many people with mismatched vehicles/trailers I am looking at both at the same time to be sure of a correct match. Any trailer that I am interested in weighs in around the 6000lb (dry), 7000lb (loaded), range. For various reasons we have decided on the Sierra/Silverado(1500 2WD) with the 5.3V8 and 3.73 axle along with the trailer package which gives a tow rating of 8100lbs.

You’ll spend a lot of time cussing on the road that you didn’t move up to a bigger truck and power plant. You need at least a 6.0 V-8 and 2500 series. The 3/4 hitch means it’ll accomodate either; it’s a non-issue. Go by the trailer’s GVWR, not any "dry wgt", "loaded wgt" estimate. Just my 2 cents; you’ll probably get a lot more from others. Marv

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The 3/4 hitch means it’ll accomodate either; it’s a non-issue. Go by the trailer’s GVWR, not any "dry wgt", "loaded wgt" estimate.

A 3/4 ton costs very little more, its a must. Sorobon

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snipped Thanks for any advice to a newbie. Jim

I can tell you my experience. Our ‘02 Sierra 1500 had the tow package and IMHO the standard hitch is poor. Our former HR Alumalite trailer had a hitch weight of about 600 lbs. When I cranked it up to put the weight distributing bars on, the hitch receiver moved up, which showed there was some weakness in the hitch. When we got the newer ‘00 HR Alumascape, it had a hitch weight of about 1,000 lbs. Raising the hitch to put the bars on resulted in even more movement. Even though the hitch was rated for more than I put on it, it still wasn’t as strong as it should have been. Our current ‘03 Ram 1500 hitch on the other hand, doesn’t move up at all. The hitch is much stronger than the GM hitch. Once the GM 1500 was hooked up, it was fine. But I have to admit, the Ram is far better. Do yourself a favor and take a good look at the new Ram 1500 with the Hemi. It has more power and more capability than either the Silverado/Sierra or the Ford. A test of the new Dodge Durango with a detuned Hemi in it and a test of a new ‘04 Ford F150 point out just how strong the Dodge Hemi is. They towed a 6,800 lb boat with the Durango and a 6,100 lb travel trailer with the Ford. The 0 to 60 times were much better with the Hemi, in spite of it towing a heavier load. My mileage with the Hemi is better than I got with the Sierra 4.8L. JMHO HD in NY

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I am currently looking to trade up to a 1/2 ton with the intention of buying a travel trailer.  Having seen so many people with mismatched vehicles/trailers I am looking at both at the same time to be sure of a correct match. Any trailer that I am interested in weighs in around the 6000lb (dry), 7000lb (loaded), range. For various reasons we have decided on the Sierra/Silverado(1500 2WD) with the 5.3V8 and 3.73 axle along with the trailer package which gives a tow rating of 8100lbs. Now here is the dumb question of the day…the trailer package includes a hitch which is rated as a Class 3, or Class 4 with weight ditribution bars.  The trailer dealer says I should have a Class 4 hitch.  Some hitch web sites do seem to jump from class 3 to class 5 and mention WD for class 4 while others show a class 4. So I am not sure what to say to the truck dealer – is the class 3/4 OK or do I say I want the trailer package w/o the hitch and I’ll get my own, or insist they install a real class 4? Just to add to the confusion, I am aware of other hitches like PullRite and Hensley($$)and was wondering if I should try out the regular hitch with all the WD gear first then decide if I need an alternate one.  I will be doing some long distance/long term hauling. By the way, I have been pulling trailers for years but on a smaller scale and have never had to face these issues. Thanks for any advice to a newbie. Jim

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Question:

Okay, Nissan does some cool commercials, not enough to make me buy one of their cars, but I have to admit, doing a surfers in an SUV commercial was nothing special until I recognized Dale’s guitar, and then the man himself, and he turned out to be the guest of honor of the whole thing, that was really cool.  I suppose we should all brace ourselves for the day when Ritchie Blackmore performs from the roof of a minivan, sooner or later they’ll all end up in an ad.

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Okay, Nissan does some cool commercials, not enough to make me buy one of their cars, but I have to admit, doing a surfers in an

Renault controls Nissan.  If you buy one of their cars or trucks, the profits end up in FRANCE!!!

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Okay, Nissan does some cool commercials, not enough to make me buy one of their cars, but I have to admit, doing a surfers in an Renault controls Nissan.  If you buy one of their cars or trucks, the profits end up in FRANCE!!!

Vive la France! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Question:

I’m looking to buy a cheaper pickup.  I have to keep it under $3,000. Pretty much its for carrying around stuff and some remodeling work. But mostly cause I want to get a pickup.  I am looking at 1/2 ton full sized trucks between the years of ‘87 to ‘94 with mostly over 100K miles on them.  It would be nice to have 4wd, but really if its going to be more headaches with this age/mileage I could go without.  So any suggestions on what to go with or stay away from?  I want either Ford or Chevy/GMC (no dodge).  Auto would be nice, but once again, if manual if less headaches that would be best.  6 cylinder or 8?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I’m not towing anything. db

If you want something reliable, I would drop the Chevy/GMC and Ford brands and go with something Jap.

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I’m not going to flame on about Jap vehicles… for all I know a tundra is a pretty good occasional use truck… but YOU are fulla shit. BOTH GM and Ford full size pickups are reliable. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you want something reliable, I would drop the Chevy/GMC and Ford brands and go with something Jap.

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I’m not going to flame on about Jap vehicles… for all I know a tundra is a pretty good occasional use truck… but YOU are fulla shit. BOTH GM and Ford full size pickups are reliable.

I think that’s an understatement, at least about the older ones in that price range. I don’t know about the news ones but the older ones will run for a long, long time and be pretty cheap to fix when you do have problems. For $3000 you won’t find a Japanese truck that will be in anywhere near as good condition as a domestic truck. Sean

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i have a 90 toyota 4 wheel drive been driving it for 5 years pulls a pontoon boat  100 miles round trip every weekend also pulls my kubota bx22 backhoe and 1400 lb dump trailer with 3.5 tons and can go over any hill around  with boat or hoe on back ,toyota is great i can prove it ford sucks don’t bother checking anything on them cause their alreaady junk ,chevy 350 good more powerful more maintenance i have both

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i have a 90 toyota 4 wheel drive been driving it for 5 years pulls a pontoon boat  100 miles round trip every weekend also pulls my kubota bx22 backhoe and 1400 lb dump trailer with 3.5 tons and can go over any hill around  with boat or hoe on back ,toyota is great i can prove it ford sucks don’t bother checking anything on them cause their alreaady junk ,chevy 350 good more powerful more maintenance i have both

I think Ford did turn around a bit. Looking at their entry model trucks, jdpower is giving them 5 out of 5 stars for mechanical quality. I think that’s great! However, for older models, I believe Ford is not so great. Specifically late 80s early 90s. My original point was that Toyota or Nissan would be a better choice if getting something that old. I am glad to see the big 3 finally come around (however I believe Dodge still has a few years to go before it’s quality is up to par)

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That’s because you are horribly misinformed… Everyone has a right to remain ignorant, carry on. 351CJ

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to buy a cheaper pickup.  I have to keep it under $3,000. Pretty much its for carrying around stuff and some remodeling work. But mostly cause I want to get a pickup.  I am looking at 1/2 ton full sized trucks between the years of ‘87 to ‘94 with mostly over 100K miles on them.  It would be nice to have 4wd, but really if its going to be more headaches with this age/mileage I could go without.  So any suggestions on what to go with or stay away from?  I want either Ford or Chevy/GMC (no dodge).  Auto would be nice, but once again, if manual if less headaches that would be best.  6 cylinder or 8?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I’m not towing anything. db If you want something reliable, I would drop the Chevy/GMC and Ford brands and go with something Jap.

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That’s because you are horribly misinformed… Everyone has a right to remain ignorant, carry on. 351CJ

I am not sure if this reply was meant to go to me, since you top-posted, however if it did, I am still not sure what’s misinformed about my statement. FORD has serious reliability issues. Ford’s trucks are much better than the cars. I believe FORD is doing a great job of coming around, but for now I am not willing to subsidize this re-tooling of quality with my own money. I am also talking facts. Look at the long term reports for Fords. They are very well below average. I can’t wait for the large Japanese trucks to come out (like the Nissan Titan), to compete directly with the big 3. This is the only way reliability will go up.

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and Ford brands and go with something Jap.

And what would you do with it? Use it to all your flower home from Home Depot? The Jap trucks may be marginally OK for use as a commuter vehicle but they are damn poor work vehicles. Heck my 11 year old F150 is a better work truck than a new Tundra. However, I suppose if you can stand the tacky looking interior, incredibly high price, mediocre reliability, third rate cargo capacity, and high cost of operation, a Tundra is probably OK to tow a 12 foot aluminum john boat down to the lake (just don’t try to haul monre than 2 people when the boat is hooked on). People who buy Jap trucks, don’t need a truck – if they did they would know better than to buy a Jap truck. Ed

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For under 3 grand you may have to settle for a 6 cylinder, but I’d recommend an 8 if you have any hills to climb.  There are lots of auto transmissions out there.  Pull the tranny stick and make sure the color of the fluid isn’t too dark.  I’m not a pickup owner but I’ve borrowed friends Ford and Chevys and I’m not aware of one being superior to the other.  I suppose if I had to choose between the two, I’d pick the chevy.  Engage your local mechanic in a conversation.  He’ll have an opinion to share.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to buy a cheaper pickup.  I have to keep it under $3,000. Pretty much its for carrying around stuff and some remodeling work. But mostly cause I want to get a pickup.  I am looking at 1/2 ton full sized trucks between the years of ‘87 to ‘94 with mostly over 100K miles on them.  It would be nice to have 4wd, but really if its going to be more headaches with this age/mileage I could go without.  So any suggestions on what to go with or stay away from?  I want either Ford or Chevy/GMC (no dodge).  Auto would be nice, but once again, if manual if less headaches that would be best.  6 cylinder or 8?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I’m not towing anything. db

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I’m looking to buy a cheaper pickup.  I have to keep it under $3,000. Pretty much its for carrying around stuff and some remodeling work. But mostly cause I want to get a pickup.  I am looking at 1/2 ton full sized trucks between the years of ‘87 to ‘94 with mostly over 100K miles on them.  It would be nice to have 4wd, but really if its going to be more headaches with this age/mileage I could go without.  So any suggestions on what to go with or stay away from?  I want either Ford or Chevy/GMC (no dodge).  Auto would be nice, but once again, if manual if less headaches that would be best.  6 cylinder or 8?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I’m not towing anything. db

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Question:

I have read up on forced induction and all the other things people do to get extra power. One way, is to put an intercooler between your compressor and your air intake, to cool the air. How crazy would it be to do this WITHOUT any sort of forced induction? Of course, the heat has to have somewhere to go, so if the intercooler was mounted in front of the radiator, AND the air intake was placed somewhere in front of the radiator (to take in cooler air), AND some sort of sprayer continuously sprayed the intercooler with ice-water mist, I’m thinking I could get the intake temperature down to around 70 F. (I’ve read that people have achieved exactly this in forced induction systems, using water spray on the intercooler, even though the input air is MUCH hotter than 150 F). So in theory, if we take the air from 150 to 70, that is an increase in density of 1.15, and a 100 hp engine would gain 15 hp… right?

You’re dealing with two things here.  First, your engine needs fuel and air to run, at an optimum mix, depending on many other things.  If the air is too hot it is not as dense, therefor your fuel/air mix becomes too rich … the computer attempts to lean it out by cutting down on the fuel … net result is less power, but it runs.  Second, the fuel needs to be atomized some way so that it mixes well with the air as it is put into the cylinder to compress and ignite.  Carburators need hot fuel to atomize more readily and coolish air for the density to create max efficiency.  You get more air (oxygen) in cooler air than hot air.  Fuel injectors have less of a problem creating atomized gas than a carburator, so there would be more of a problem with the temperature of the air than with the temperature of the fuel when talking about injectors, but heat would help to a point there too. You might check to see if there is some sort of warm air damper that diverts air from some warmer part of the engine for cold weather starts that is not closing properly when it’s hot out … all older cars used this .. don’t know if that’s a common scheme nowadays.  But your fresh air intake should be out in front of the radiator to pull in the coolest air possible and also it would be at a temperature that wouldn’t change as drastically as you indicate.  It sounds like your air is coming from under the hood instead of outside the hood, not good. Along these lines of reasoning, wouldn’t cars get much more power in the winter? When I first got my car (in January), I can remember spinning the tires a lot in first gear, but now that its summer time, it seems like its really hard to get the tires to break loose. Is my brain playing tricks on me, or do I have noticeably less power now?

Another thing about tires and road surfaces in the winter, they wouldn’t bond as well as in the summer heat.  Lower coefficient of friction.

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I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra Spec V (yellow, if you care), and decided to do an experiment. I stuck a Taylor(R) indoor/outdoor digital thermometer’s probe in front of my air filter, in my airbox, and placed the readout on my dash. Then, on a 92 degree day, under the mid day sun, with 70% humidity, I drove around town, and took it out on the highway, to see how the intake temperatures varied. Results: 0 mph (stuck in traffic)        150 F 30 mph                          120 F 45 mph                          100 F 80 mph                          95 F I drove around enough to be sure that the above values were consistent observations, as a function of driving speed. Another interesting observation around 40 mph was the effect of using the accelerator. If the car is out of gear, coming down from highway speed (80 mph), the temperature holds pretty steadily at 95-96. However, I put the car in gear, and especially, if I gave it a little gas (at about 40mph), I instantly saw the temp jump to 100, then 105, then 110. Once stopped at the stoplight, it climbed to 120, and by the time I got home and parked, it was about 150 again. It seems that the placement of the air intake in my car is such that the air is heated (almost) directly by the radiator. I was surprised how quickly the transition took place between giving it gas, and watching the intake temperature jump (literally, a matter of a few seconds). I have read up on forced induction and all the other things people do to get extra power. One way, is to put an intercooler between your compressor and your air intake, to cool the air. How crazy would it be to do this WITHOUT any sort of forced induction? Of course, the heat has to have somewhere to go, so if the intercooler was mounted in front of the radiator, AND the air intake was placed somewhere in front of the radiator (to take in cooler air), AND some sort of sprayer continuously sprayed the intercooler with ice-water mist, I’m thinking I could get the intake temperature down to around 70 F. (I’ve read that people have achieved exactly this in forced induction systems, using water spray on the intercooler, even though the input air is MUCH hotter than 150 F). So in theory, if we take the air from 150 to 70, that is an increase in density of 1.15, and a 100 hp engine would gain 15 hp… right? Along these lines of reasoning, wouldn’t cars get much more power in the winter? When I first got my car (in January), I can remember spinning the tires a lot in first gear, but now that its summer time, it seems like its really hard to get the tires to break loose. Is my brain playing tricks on me, or do I have noticeably less power now? I guess it kind of annoys me that if I were to do a weird mod, as described above, it would only be of real benefit in the summer. C’est la vie. (sic?) If anyone has any thoughts, or answers to my (somewhat) open-ended questions, feel free to elaborate via a follow-up or an email. -Erik Buehler I am bold and post my real email, because I have a spam blocking service that is immune to automated spammers. It takes a real human to spam me (but then its not spam, is it? its just an annoying person annoying me). You can email me if you are not an annoying person, ie, trying to sell something. Otherwise, I’ll write a response that will be sure to offend you.

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Question:

You’re not from around here, are ya Scotter!! Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My impression was that solid rear axle was best for non-varying surfaces such as race tracks but when you start encountering random bumpiness that is when an independent suspension comes in more handy. I would say the solid rear axle in a Mustang GT that is going to be a daily driver is a very slight negative that is muchly overbalanced by the positives of (a) otherwise great handling – I just love the simple point-and-shoot ease of whipping this car around corners and wow it handles amazingly better than my old 85 GT did, (b) awesome torque at even low RPMs, (c) overall sturdiness – based on my 96 GT Convertible holding up very well with lots of rough treatment, (d) comfortable seating – again here I’m 5′8" and this car fits me like a glove. Taller folx I hear have problems.    I’ve owned several cars with independent rear suspension, including a couple of ‘Vettes, a Nissan 240SX, and a Mazda RX-7, and my ‘84 Mustang handles about as well as any of them under even rather extreme conditions on the street. I doubt you’d see much real difference in handling on anything short of a race track. Dear group: I am considering purchasing a Mustang GT (8 cylinders). Basically, what I want is a car that’s fun to drive, and obviously the GT qualifies (believe it or not, but I am considering the Mini Cooper and the Miata). However, I am not clear on a couple of points regarding the GT: 1) the solid rear axle: it is a design that belongs in a dump truck, and I imagine that it can have a very negative impact on the way the car handles. Is this true in practice, on the public roads? 2) I saw the upcoming Mustang (2004) on edmunds.com. To me, that looks like a $30K car at the very minimum.  I dont have that kind of money. Is the 2003 GT the last chance for buying a new, relatively cheap, V8 car? Thank you for your help.

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Dear group: I am considering purchasing a Mustang GT (8 cylinders). Basically, what I want is a car that’s fun to drive, and obviously the GT qualifies (believe it or not, but I am considering the Mini Cooper and the Miata). However, I am not clear on a couple of points regarding the GT: 1) the solid rear axle: it is a design that belongs in a dump truck, and I imagine that it can have a very negative impact on the way the car handles. Is this true in practice, on the public roads? 2) I saw the upcoming Mustang (2004) on edmunds.com. To me, that looks like a $30K car at the very minimum.  I dont have that kind of money. Is the 2003 GT the last chance for buying a new, relatively cheap, V8 car? Thank you for your help.

Response:

I dunno about the price or anything else, but the solid rear axle is not a bad thing at all.  Mustangs handle pretty decent straight off of the showroom floor and can be upgraded to handle extremely well.  In fact, many people with cobra’s converted their cars from independant rear suspension to solid axles, but usually they do it for drag racin reasons.  Either way though, there is nothing wrong with solid axles. Test drive one, and then you’ll see what I mean. Erik D. ‘94 white lightning – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear group: I am considering purchasing a Mustang GT (8 cylinders). Basically, what I want is a car that’s fun to drive, and obviously the GT qualifies (believe it or not, but I am considering the Mini Cooper and the Miata). However, I am not clear on a couple of points regarding the GT: 1) the solid rear axle: it is a design that belongs in a dump truck, and I imagine that it can have a very negative impact on the way the car handles. Is this true in practice, on the public roads? 2) I saw the upcoming Mustang (2004) on edmunds.com. To me, that looks like a $30K car at the very minimum.  I dont have that kind of money. Is the 2003 GT the last chance for buying a new, relatively cheap, V8 car? Thank you for your help.

Response:

   I’ve owned several cars with independent rear suspension, including a couple of ‘Vettes, a Nissan 240SX, and a Mazda RX-7, and my ‘84 Mustang handles about as well as any of them under even rather extreme conditions on the street. I doubt you’d see much real difference in handling on anything short of a race track.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear group: I am considering purchasing a Mustang GT (8 cylinders). Basically, what I want is a car that’s fun to drive, and obviously the GT qualifies (believe it or not, but I am considering the Mini Cooper and the Miata). However, I am not clear on a couple of points regarding the GT: 1) the solid rear axle: it is a design that belongs in a dump truck, and I imagine that it can have a very negative impact on the way the car handles. Is this true in practice, on the public roads? 2) I saw the upcoming Mustang (2004) on edmunds.com. To me, that looks like a $30K car at the very minimum.  I dont have that kind of money. Is the 2003 GT the last chance for buying a new, relatively cheap, V8 car? Thank you for your help.

Response:

My impression was that solid rear axle was best for non-varying surfaces such as race tracks but when you start encountering random bumpiness that is when an independent suspension comes in more handy. I would say the solid rear axle in a Mustang GT that is going to be a daily driver is a very slight negative that is muchly overbalanced by the positives of (a) otherwise great handling – I just love the simple point-and-shoot ease of whipping this car around corners and wow it handles amazingly better than my old 85 GT did, (b) awesome torque at even low RPMs, (c) overall sturdiness – based on my 96 GT Convertible holding up very well with lots of rough treatment, (d) comfortable seating – again here I’m 5′8" and this car fits me like a glove. Taller folx I hear have problems.

   I’ve owned several cars with independent rear suspension, including a couple of ‘Vettes, a Nissan 240SX, and a Mazda RX-7, and my ‘84 Mustang handles about as well as any of them under even rather extreme conditions on the street. I doubt you’d see much real difference in handling on anything short of a race track.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear group: I am considering purchasing a Mustang GT (8 cylinders). Basically, what I want is a car that’s fun to drive, and obviously the GT qualifies (believe it or not, but I am considering the Mini Cooper and the Miata). However, I am not clear on a couple of points regarding the GT: 1) the solid rear axle: it is a design that belongs in a dump truck, and I imagine that it can have a very negative impact on the way the car handles. Is this true in practice, on the public roads? 2) I saw the upcoming Mustang (2004) on edmunds.com. To me, that looks like a $30K car at the very minimum.  I dont have that kind of money. Is the 2003 GT the last chance for buying a new, relatively cheap, V8 car? Thank you for your help.

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Question:

Yep Saintor! It’s nice & safe for all those people in the SUV’s – what about the rest of us in regular cars?… You don’t care? Well that just sums up the whole attitude towards SUV drivers!!

Amen.  I was in traffic today in my little economical car, utterly surrounded by F350’s, Dodge Rams, Expeditions, etc., and I feel like a puny ant looking around in every direction.  At the same time I am listening to the news on the "war", so the irony was pretty thick.  I do believe that a lot of Americans or unable or unwilling to make the same sacrifices that previous generations did during war, especially since this war is more or less about oil. Anyway, I despise SUV’s and contrary to what SUV owners believe it is not about envy.  If I could afford a new vehicle in that price range I would much rather have a nice Volvo or even the new decked out Accord. LP

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and if UK and Japan did not adhere to a Socialist form of Government and tax everything that contains matter including gasoline then you would see SUV in those countries as well. As usual, the citizens of the mediocre socialist European states blame the worlds problems on the US.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – SUVs are creating big danger for our environment.  For a better and greener America – do NOT buy SUVs…  I believe that the government should have the SUV manufacturing stopped.  Second thing the government should do is to increase oil price to $5/gal so that people should begin buying more gas economic cars than SUVs.

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Just trying to influence an incorrect point of view.

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I can use that phrase as many times as I feel fit.   Alot of you mindless NG readers apparantly aspire to the philosophies of the  ’elitist left-wing’ scum in our society, so I call them as I see them.   I have a good life and figure that those of you that will never aspire to my social and economic status always sink to the actions of the left by immature mindless name calling.  My eyes are wide open to the danger the presence of the brand of socialism you traitors subscribe to, and I will oppose it until my last dying breath.  My children also have a good life that they created for themselves by hard work and determination and we do sometimes differ on philosophical outlooks.   My only error of ways is paying any attention to the insignificant rants of some of the hypocrites that respond to this newsgroup and wasting my valuable time replying to them.   But someone has to help educate them.        

This IS satire, right?

Response:

Hey, who asked for the extremist, paranoid, gun-toting, conspiracy theorist’s opinion??? I sure didn’t.  If your time is so valuable, do us all a favor and don’t spend it here… I can assure you that you won’t be ‘educating’ us, except with respect to how NOT to behave.  I’m sure any attempt to bring us up to your ’social and economic status’ will be in vain, so I urge you to enjoy your life and keep to yourself… we’d all appreciate it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can use that phrase as many times as I feel fit.   Alot of you mindless NG readers apparantly aspire to the philosophies of the  ’elitist left-wing’ scum in our society, so I call them as I see them.   I have a good life and figure that those of you that will never aspire to my social and economic status always sink to the actions of the left by immature mindless name calling. My eyes are wide open to the danger the presence of the brand of socialism you traitors subscribe to, and I will oppose it until my last dying breath. My children also have a good life that they created for themselves by hard work and determination and we do sometimes differ on philosophical outlooks. My only error of ways is paying any attention to the insignificant rants of some of the hypocrites that respond to this newsgroup and wasting my valuable time replying to them.   But someone has to help educate them.

Response:

I can use that phrase as many times as I feel fit.   Alot of you mindless NG readers apparantly aspire to the philosophies of the  ’elitist left-wing’ scum in our society, so I call them as I see them.   I have a good life and figure that those of you that will never aspire to my social and economic status always sink to the actions of the left by immature mindless name calling.  My eyes are wide open to the danger the presence of the brand of socialism you traitors subscribe to, and I will oppose it until my last dying breath.  My children also have a good life that they created for themselves by hard work and determination and we do sometimes differ on philosophical outlooks.   My only error of ways is paying any attention to the insignificant rants of some of the hypocrites that respond to this newsgroup and wasting my valuable time replying to them.   But someone has to help educate them.        

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Two weeks ago I got to witness a rearender between a small sedan (Nissan I think) and an H2.  The car literally had NO backseat left.  It’s a DAMNED good thing there was no passengers nor a baby seat in the car!

Some people on this newsgroup would argue the fault is with the driver of the Nissan, for not having an SUV instead.

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Alot of you mindless NG readers apparantly aspire to the philosophies of the  ’elitist left-wing’ scum in our society, so I call them as I see them.

But the philosophies of ’selfish right-wing’ scum are okay?

Response:

possible suggestions… ** require a driving safety course for SUV drivers. they have such courses for motorcyle and ATV riders, why not SUV drivers too? ** add speed limiters to SUV’s. honestly, these things do not need to go faster than 55 MPH. SUV’s are for towing, transporting people and cargo, and for off-roading. they are not supposed to be used as urban assualt vehicles bullying their way through traffic at 80 MPH. . i work in a posh area and there are H2’s everywhere here. and for some reason, they are all yellow. strange. — rich – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah, no sh*t!!!  This afternoon, I was casually cruising down the highway in my 86 CRX in heavy traffic at 75 mph.  A Hummer-H2 was following about 2 car lengths behind me.  I can’t stand people who drive their SUV’s as if they were sports cars.  Do they actually think that they’re going to have the same stopping distance in a 7000 pound vehicle as they will in a small car??? Two weeks ago I got to witness a rearender between a small sedan (Nissan I think) and an H2.  The car literally had NO backseat left.  It’s a DAMNED good thing there was no passengers nor a baby seat in the car! Personally, I think that vehicles that big should require a different class of driver’s license.  A large number of people clearly have no idea how to handle them safely.  (sure THEY are safe but at the risk of every other person on the roads!)

Response:

Welcome to the real world.  No, I don’t care about anybody but myself and my family.  Nobody else is looking out for me but me.  If I’m OK, my family is OK.  Freedom is a wonderful thing isn’t it? I don’t care what you think about me.  Your opinion has zero effect on me.    

yeah… I’m guessing that the fellow who crossed two lanes of oncoming traffic today to intentionally run over a stray dog had exactly the same opinion… Some days, I have to wonder about humanity. Go n-ithe an cat th