Question:

I had it aligned today and it is still pulling to the left and is still touching the inside of the wheel-well when I turn the steering all the way to the left.

I forgot to say that, by mistake, I told them it was a 91 when it was a 1992, is there a difference in the alignment specifications? I know of the listake because I saw it on the receipt.

Response:

I think some rubbing is commonplace now in these cars with tighter wheelwells and wider tires. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~299, 729 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

The right tire on my 92 Bonneville touches the inside wheel-well when I turn the steering all the way to the left. Does this means it is out of alignment? Thank you Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Accounts Starting At $6.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com               <<<<<<<   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <<<<<<<<

I have the same year and model car and have never had problems with the tires rubbing the wheel wells.  Are the rims and tires on your car stock size?  If they are it sounds like you have a worn or damaged suspension and need to have it checked by a competent mechanic ASAP!.

Response:

The right tire on my 92 Bonneville touches the inside wheel-well when I turn the steering all the way to the left. Does this means it is out of alignment? Thank you Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Accounts Starting At $6.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com                <<<<<<<   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <<<<<<<<

Response:

I had it aligned today and it is still pulling to the left and is still touching the inside of the wheel-well when I turn the steering all the way to the left.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The right tire on my 92 Bonneville touches the inside wheel-well when I turn the steering all the way to the left. Does this means it is out of alignment? Thank you Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Accounts Starting At $6.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com               <<<<<<<   The Worlds Uncensored News Source <<<<<<<<

Response:

Question:

Scott Trans oil & filter have been changed every 50,000 before the rebuild. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~298,984 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

What does this do about the dirty filter? It is my theory that transmission problems are caused by restricted filters that reduce fluid flow and damaging things.

Of course the filter needs to be changed.  That’s a given. But when you change the filter on an auto trans, you only retrieve approx 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid.  So the idea of a "flush" is to completely change all the fluid in the transmission, along with changing the filter and cleaning the oil pan. Ian

Response:

What does this do about the dirty filter? It is my theory that transmission problems are caused by restricted filters that reduce fluid flow and damaging things. Harry, just to clarify: You did regular filter and fluid change before you needed a rebuild at about 180,000 miles?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks for the info.  I like this procedure. I was reading the cadillac forums and an individual by the name of bbobynski was posting the dangers of transmission flushes. He supposedly is a GM powertrain engineer for 32 years and he is against the transmission flush.  The pitfalls he mentions are: The last vehicle that was hooked up to that flushing machine was probably on its last leg and was generating tons of debris. Most owners, when the transmission starts to act up, rush to get a "flush" in the hope that it will cure the problem.  So…flush machines, by definition, see the worst of the worst.  If the lines aren’t cleaned, hooked up improperly, oil is re-used or recycled, etc..  then you are screwed as your transmission gets the dose of debris from the last transmission. He says that no matter how good the intentions of the shop, one simple mistake and your transmission gets the debris. He then mentions that Transmission Flushes are money makers for shops and dealerships because they are quick and easy and they can actually charge more money for it under the guise of it being better for the trans. Harryface, has your bonneville with close to 300K miles had flushes or just fluid and filter changes?  I know you have had a transmission rebuild but you seem to have good luck with the number of miles your parts last. In the old service manuals I have they specified a procedure for flushing the trans that seemed to be safe and thorough. It said to remove the transmission cooler return line from the radiator (I think it was the top line, for GM anyway) and connect a length of hose to it and put the other end into a 5 gal. bucket of clean fluid. Take an appropriate size nipple and thread it into the radiator where you took off the cooler return line and connect a piece of hose to that going into an empty container (big enough to hold a few gallons). The return line will always be sucking fresh fluid.. Start it up, and (with the parking and service brakes applied) and put it into reverse, drive, 2nd, 1st, and back into park. It helps if you have someone else do it, so you can watch the fluid coming out. Let the car run until the fluid is coming out clean. This way even the valve body and cooler in the radiator are flushed. Filter change could probably be done first, to lessen the amount of time to flush and fluid wasted. — Happy Trails, Paul a.k.a. Commander Bushkisser see http://cheekysquirrel.net/squirrelname/index.php ‘91 XL1200 ‘77 GL1000 (W.I.P.) "I just keep gettin younger, my life is funny that way.. Before I learned how to talk, I forgot what to say."  -Neil Young

Response:

Thanks for the info.  I like this procedure.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was reading the cadillac forums and an individual by the name of bbobynski was posting the dangers of transmission flushes. He supposedly is a GM powertrain engineer for 32 years and he is against the transmission flush.  The pitfalls he mentions are: The last vehicle that was hooked up to that flushing machine was probably on its last leg and was generating tons of debris. Most owners, when the transmission starts to act up, rush to get a "flush" in the hope that it will cure the problem.  So…flush machines, by definition, see the worst of the worst.  If the lines aren’t cleaned, hooked up improperly, oil is re-used or recycled, etc..  then you are screwed as your transmission gets the dose of debris from the last transmission. He says that no matter how good the intentions of the shop, one simple mistake and your transmission gets the debris. He then mentions that Transmission Flushes are money makers for shops and dealerships because they are quick and easy and they can actually charge more money for it under the guise of it being better for the trans. Harryface, has your bonneville with close to 300K miles had flushes or just fluid and filter changes?  I know you have had a transmission rebuild but you seem to have good luck with the number of miles your parts last. In the old service manuals I have they specified a procedure for flushing the trans that seemed to be safe and thorough. It said to remove the transmission cooler return line from the radiator (I think it was the top line, for GM anyway) and connect a length of hose to it and put the other end into a 5 gal. bucket of clean fluid. Take an appropriate size nipple and thread it into the radiator where you took off the cooler return line and connect a piece of hose to that going into an empty container (big enough to hold a few gallons). The return line will always be sucking fresh fluid.. Start it up, and (with the parking and service brakes applied) and put it into reverse, drive, 2nd, 1st, and back into park. It helps if you have someone else do it, so you can watch the fluid coming out. Let the car run until the fluid is coming out clean. This way even the valve body and cooler in the radiator are flushed. Filter change could probably be done first, to lessen the amount of time to flush and fluid wasted. — Happy Trails, Paul a.k.a. Commander Bushkisser see http://cheekysquirrel.net/squirrelname/index.php ‘91 XL1200 ‘77 GL1000 (W.I.P.) "I just keep gettin younger, my life is funny that way.. Before I learned how to talk, I forgot what to say."  -Neil Young

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was reading the cadillac forums and an individual by the name of bbobynski was posting the dangers of transmission flushes. He supposedly is a GM powertrain engineer for 32 years and he is against the transmission flush.  The pitfalls he mentions are: The last vehicle that was hooked up to that flushing machine was probably on its last leg and was generating tons of debris. Most owners, when the transmission starts to act up, rush to get a "flush" in the hope that it will cure the problem.  So…flush machines, by definition, see the worst of the worst.  If the lines aren’t cleaned, hooked up improperly, oil is re-used or recycled, etc..  then you are screwed as your transmission gets the dose of debris from the last transmission. He says that no matter how good the intentions of the shop, one simple mistake and your transmission gets the debris. He then mentions that Transmission Flushes are money makers for shops and dealerships because they are quick and easy and they can actually charge more money for it under the guise of it being better for the trans. Harryface, has your bonneville with close to 300K miles had flushes or just fluid and filter changes?  I know you have had a transmission rebuild but you seem to have good luck with the number of miles your parts last.

In the old service manuals I have they specified a procedure for flushing the trans that seemed to be safe and thorough. It said to remove the transmission cooler return line from the radiator (I think it was the top line, for GM anyway) and connect a length of hose to it and put the other end into a 5 gal. bucket of clean fluid. Take an appropriate size nipple and thread it into the radiator where you took off the cooler return line and connect a piece of hose to that going into an empty container (big enough to hold a few gallons). The return line will always be sucking fresh fluid.. Start it up, and (with the parking and service brakes applied) and put it into reverse, drive, 2nd, 1st, and back into park. It helps if you have someone else do it, so you can watch the fluid coming out. Let the car run until the fluid is coming out clean. This way even the valve body and cooler in the radiator are flushed. Filter change could probably be done first, to lessen the amount of time to flush and fluid wasted. — Happy Trails, Paul a.k.a. Commander Bushkisser see http://cheekysquirrel.net/squirrelname/index.php ‘91 XL1200 ‘77 GL1000 (W.I.P.) "I just keep gettin younger, my life is funny that way.. Before I learned how to talk, I forgot what to say."  -Neil Young

Response:

I want to fully understand your transmission flushing procedure.  By remove the line come into tranny, (there are two lines, is it the top one?) running the engine to empty the fluid from lock-up converter.  One empty, immediately shut the engine off that should take no more than few minutes. This procedure should empty entire transmission fuild? Drop the tranny oil pan and clean the pan/magnet and install new filter Add new tranny oil. Start the engine then check for oil level Questions: 1/ Any concern with air entrapment? (another word is there a bleeding procedure?) 2/ Is ther an oil pump in tranny? any concern about oil pump damage due to oil starvation? 3/ Generally, I drop the tranny oil pan to drain the oil.  Clean the pan and top it up with new oil.  If one is corner about the oil lubrication quality, should we change the oil often or doing the job twice. Sorry for asking many questions!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Vince, I probably shouldn’t tell you what I do, but what the heck, its worked for years with no problems. We’ll let the boys in here chew on this routine for awhile. Before I remove the trans  pan & filter I remove the trans line going into the side of the case and then start the car up to pump the oil out. I got a clear tupperware storage container I let the fluid run into. I got a line on the side of the container which is the 2 gallon mark, then I shut the car off.  Other guys I know would shut the car off when the oil stops spurting out, but then the trans may get to hot. Afterwards , I drop the pan & filter. Depending how much oil is around the house I may pull the line of a day later and pump out another gallon or so, then  refill. Of course since my transmission was rebuilt it runs 5 more quarts than originally intended, 15 instead of 9. The trans man said this trans should run with more oil than what GM originally specified. He said that there were independent tests done and it was determined 15 quarts of oil was better for this trans. Of course nobody at the Chevy dealer I deal with has ever heard of this, nor anybody else I’ve mentioned it to. But, our trans man has been in business since the early 70’s and he does alot of speed work, shift kits & race cars, so I trust his work. 108,000 miles on the rebuild trans. So, 15 quarts have been in it since 2001 and it don’t foam up and works just fine. Now I change it every 30,000 miles. or once a year say. This is the old style hydraulic trans, not the all electric style like 92 & up. Good Luck. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~298,614 miles_~_~_ ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

Thanks for the quick replies.  I appreciate the information. Vince

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was reading the cadillac forums and an individual by the name of bbobynski was posting the dangers of transmission flushes. He supposedly is a GM powertrain engineer for 32 years and he is against the transmission flush. Yeah, I’ve read numerous posts of his, and have both argued for and against whatever he believes in.  He is very knowledgeable, but has this very "corporate" attitude, ie: GM can do no wrong, most problems with their vehicles are the customers fault.  Which a bunch of BS…but he does seem to spout the corporate line. The pitfalls he mentions are: The last vehicle that was hooked up to that flushing machine was probably on its last leg and was generating tons of debris. Most owners, when the transmission starts to act up, rush to get a "flush" in the hope that it will cure the problem. In our dealership, the above is almost totally untrue.  And if we have a transmission that is "that" bad….we can decide how much fluid we flush through it….and can simply flush more thru until the fluid is coming out clean.  I’d say that 99% of the flushes that we do are regularly maintained vehicles that are regular customers. And I’ve yet to see any trans failure that could be even remotely attributed to using this "flushing" machine. So…flush machines, by definition, see the worst of the worst.  If the lines aren’t cleaned, hooked up improperly, oil is re-used or recycled, etc..  then you are screwed as your transmission gets the dose of debris from the last transmission. This all depends on the machine and it’s design.  Our machines are auto sensing when it comes to hooking up the lines…you can’t hook it up backwards….the oil used is brand new…etc.  Our machines are actually "approved" by GM. He says that no matter how good the intentions of the shop, one simple mistake and your transmission gets the debris. Scare tactics…..and it’s funny too…..he’s a Cadillac engineer and guess where they decided to put the filter in their big 4 speed transmissions that come in the full size Caddies?  Under the side cover, where you can’t get at it without either removing the trans, or at least dropping the drivers side of the subframe "way" down.  So in other words, you can’t do the typical "trans service" on those trannies anyway.  At least with the flush, you are able to get "all" the old fluid out.  It would take you 3-4 "services" to do that normally.  Cadillac thinks their transmissions don’t need any maintenance, but what I see in the shop says otherwise. He then mentions that Transmission Flushes are money makers for shops and dealerships because they are quick and easy and they can actually charge more money for it under the guise of it being better for the trans. Yeah…so what?  What does he think that repair shops and mechanics are working for?  Just so we can work for nothing and provide a service with no profit? Of course these machines are money makers….but they perform a service that you could not do easily without the machine. Brake lathes make machining rotors and drums "quick and easy".  I wonder whether he thinks we ought to have to just manually file them to get them straight and true? Harryface, has your bonneville with close to 300K miles had flushes or just fluid and filter changes?  I know you have had a transmission rebuild but you seem to have good luck with the number of miles your parts last. Having said all this….our shop provides both types of transmission services.  The choice is up to the customer, we often simply alternate the two services at the mileages that have been set up in the maintenance schedule.  We probably do as many or more old style "transmission services" as we do the flushes.

Response:

I was reading the cadillac forums and an individual by the name of bbobynski was posting the dangers of transmission flushes. He supposedly is a GM powertrain engineer for 32 years and he is against the transmission flush.

Yeah, I’ve read numerous posts of his, and have both argued for and against whatever he believes in.  He is very knowledgeable, but has this very "corporate" attitude, ie: GM can do no wrong, most problems with their vehicles are the customers fault.  Which a bunch of BS…but he does seem to spout the corporate line. The pitfalls he mentions are: The last vehicle that was hooked up to that flushing machine was probably on its last leg and was generating tons of debris. Most owners, when the transmission starts to act up, rush to get a "flush" in the hope that it will cure the problem.

In our dealership, the above is almost totally untrue.  And if we have a transmission that is "that" bad….we can decide how much fluid we flush through it….and can simply flush more thru until the fluid is coming out clean.  I’d say that 99% of the flushes that we do are regularly maintained vehicles that are regular customers. And I’ve yet to see any trans failure that could be even remotely attributed to using this "flushing" machine. So…flush machines, by definition, see the worst of the worst.  If the lines aren’t cleaned, hooked up improperly, oil is re-used or recycled, etc..  then you are screwed as your transmission gets the dose of debris from the last transmission.

This all depends on the machine and it’s design.  Our machines are auto sensing when it comes to hooking up the lines…you can’t hook it up backwards….the oil used is brand new…etc.  Our machines are actually "approved" by GM. He says that no matter how good the intentions of the shop, one simple mistake and your transmission gets the debris.

Scare tactics…..and it’s funny too…..he’s a Cadillac engineer and guess where they decided to put the filter in their big 4 speed transmissions that come in the full size Caddies?  Under the side cover, where you can’t get at it without either removing the trans, or at least dropping the drivers side of the subframe "way" down.  So in other words, you can’t do the typical "trans service" on those trannies anyway.  At least with the flush, you are able to get "all" the old fluid out.  It would take you 3-4 "services" to do that normally.  Cadillac thinks their transmissions don’t need any maintenance, but what I see in the shop says otherwise. He then mentions that Transmission Flushes are money makers for shops and dealerships because they are quick and easy and they can actually charge more money for it under the guise of it being better for the trans.

Yeah…so what?  What does he think that repair shops and mechanics are working for?  Just so we can work for nothing and provide a service with no profit? Of course these machines are money makers….but they perform a service that you could not do easily without the machine. Brake lathes make machining rotors and drums "quick and easy".  I wonder whether he thinks we ought to have to just manually file them to get them straight and true? Harryface, has your bonneville with close to 300K miles had flushes or just fluid and filter changes?  I know you have had a transmission rebuild but you seem to have good luck with the number of miles your parts last.

Having said all this….our shop provides both types of transmission services.  The choice is up to the customer, we often simply alternate the two services at the mileages that have been set up in the maintenance schedule.  We probably do as many or more old style "transmission services" as we do the flushes.

Response:

I was reading the cadillac forums and an individual by the name of bbobynski was posting the dangers of transmission flushes. He supposedly is a GM powertrain engineer for 32 years and he is against the transmission flush.  The pitfalls he mentions are: The last vehicle that was hooked up to that flushing machine was probably on its last leg and was generating tons of debris. Most owners, when the transmission starts to act up, rush to get a "flush" in the hope that it will cure the problem.  So…flush machines, by definition, see the worst of the worst.  If the lines aren’t cleaned, hooked up improperly, oil is re-used or recycled, etc..  then you are screwed as your transmission gets the dose of debris from the last transmission. He says that no matter how good the intentions of the shop, one simple mistake and your transmission gets the debris. He then mentions that Transmission Flushes are money makers for shops and dealerships because they are quick and easy and they can actually charge more money for it under the guise of it being better for the trans. Harryface, has your bonneville with close to 300K miles had flushes or just fluid and filter changes?  I know you have had a transmission rebuild but you seem to have good luck with the number of miles your parts last.

Response:

Vince, I probably shouldn’t tell you what I do, but what the heck, its worked for years with no problems. We’ll let the boys in here chew on this routine for awhile. Before I remove the trans  pan & filter I remove the trans line going into the side of the case and then start the car up to pump the oil out. I got a clear tupperware storage container I let the fluid run into. I got a line on the side of the container which is the 2 gallon mark, then I shut the car off.  Other guys I know would shut the car off when the oil stops spurting out, but then the trans may get to hot. Afterwards , I drop the pan & filter. Depending how much oil is around the house I may pull the line of a day later and pump out another gallon or so, then  refill. Of course since my transmission was rebuilt it runs 5 more quarts than originally intended, 15 instead of 9. The trans man said this trans should run with more oil than what GM originally specified. He said that there were independent tests done and it was determined 15 quarts of oil was better for this trans. Of course nobody at the Chevy dealer I deal with has ever heard of this, nor anybody else I’ve mentioned it to. But, our trans man has been in business since the early 70’s and he does alot of speed work, shift kits & race cars, so I trust his work. 108,000 miles on the rebuild trans. So, 15 quarts have been in it since 2001 and it don’t foam up and works just fine. Now I change it every 30,000 miles. or once a year say. This is the old style hydraulic trans, not the all electric style like 92 & up. Good Luck. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~298,614 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

Question:

Oops !!! Sorry for the mistake … "Same player does’nt shoot again" )) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  "Christophe Salvaing" Steven Here some documents regarding the 3800 intake manifold gasket : Service bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/SB-10001282-8175(Intake_manifold_gasket).pdf Technical Bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/GM_3.1_3.4_TB.pdf Service bulletin GM : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gmservbull.pdf Sealing solution : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gskms15704.pdf Christophe SALVAING Ummm, hate to tell you this but, all of those are for a different engine;  3.1 and 3.4 liter Chevrolet built and they apply to 96 and newer. The OP was asking about a 94 Buick built 3.8…

Response:

Have a look at the upper intake.  If it is aluminum intake than you will not have an intake problem.  I had a 1993 that have an aluminum intake, the only problem I had is a small leak between intake and throttle assembly that is easy to fix as another post already pointed out here.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  "Christophe Salvaing" Steven Here some documents regarding the 3800 intake manifold gasket : Service bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/SB-10001282-8175(Intake_manifold_gasket).pdf Technical Bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/GM_3.1_3.4_TB.pdf Service bulletin GM : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gmservbull.pdf Sealing solution : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gskms15704.pdf Christophe SALVAING Ummm, hate to tell you this but, all of those are for a different engine;  3.1 and 3.4 liter Chevrolet built and they apply to 96 and newer. The OP was asking about a 94 Buick built 3.8…

Response:

I know the 3800 series 2 engines had a lot of problems with the intake leaking but what about the series one? I have a 94 regal with the series one and was just wondering if these engines were prone to the same problem?

The series 1 did not suffer the same problems because the EGR tubes enter the upper plenum differently, that said, the series 1 do sometimes suffer coolant leaks from warping where the throttle body bolts on.

Response:

I believe that the series 2 problems centered around the use of a composite material intake manifold. Series 1 did not have that.

Some of the Series 1 engines do use an upper composite intake plenum…but as another poster pointed out, the difference is how the EGR gases are plumbed into the upper plenum. Ian

Response:

Steven Here some documents regarding the 3800 intake manifold gasket : Service bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/SB-10001282-8175(Intake_manifold_gasket).pdf Technical Bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/GM_3.1_3.4_TB.pdf Service bulletin GM : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gmservbull.pdf Sealing solution : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gskms15704.pdf Christophe SALVAING Web site : http://christophe.salvaing.free.fr Family, Cars (Ford Aerostar LPG, Chevy Suburban LPG, AMC Pacer, Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, Pontiac Montana), Kitesurfing … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know the 3800 series 2 engines had a lot of problems with the intake leaking but what about the series one? I have a 94 regal with the series one and was just wondering if these engines were prone to the same problem?

Response:

 "Christophe Salvaing" Steven Here some documents regarding the 3800 intake manifold gasket : Service bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/SB-10001282-8175(Intake_manifold_gasket).pdf Technical Bulletin : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/GM_3.1_3.4_TB.pdf Service bulletin GM : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gmservbull.pdf Sealing solution : http://aklr.free.fr/envrac/gskms15704.pdf Christophe SALVAING

Ummm, hate to tell you this but, all of those are for a different engine;  3.1 and 3.4 liter Chevrolet built and they apply to 96 and newer.   The OP was asking about a 94 Buick built 3.8…

Response:

I know the 3800 series 2 engines had a lot of problems with the intake leaking but what about the series one? I have a 94 regal with the series one and was just wondering if these engines were prone to the same problem?

I believe that the series 2 problems centered around the use of a composite material intake manifold. Series 1 did not have that. —Bob Gross—

Response:

I know the 3800 series 2 engines had a lot of problems with the intake leaking but what about the series one? I have a 94 regal with the series one and was just wondering if these engines were prone to the same problem?

Response:

Question:

"Christophe Salvaing"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi listers My ‘00 Venture (52K miles) got a rapid tapping sound today. After an hour driving in traffic jam, I stopped in a mall. When I started again, there was a loud "tac tac tac" that became faster as the engine speed increase. I stopped the engine and started again. Still the same problem. After driving 5 miles the sounds went off, but came back after a traffic light stop. Oil & coolant level OK, no light in the instrument cluster Before bring it to the mechanic any advices are welcome (It seems to be a valve lifter isn’t it ?) Christophe SALVAING

A faulty oil filter can cause this. Check the oil for fuel contamination, if ok then change the filter with a known good brand in your area. H

Response:

I’m aware of the lower intake manifold gasket leaks. And yes since 2 month the level coolant is slowly decreasing. But no sign of coolant in oil (foam …etc etc …) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Have you been loosing coolant? Any signs of coolant in oil? That engine suffers from lower intake manifold gasket leaks. Have it checked out soon…. "Christophe Salvaing" Hi listers My ‘00 Venture (52K miles) got a rapid tapping sound today. After an hour driving in traffic jam, I stopped in a mall. When I started again, there was a loud "tac tac tac" that became faster as the engine speed increase. I stopped the engine and started again. Still the same problem. After driving 5 miles the sounds went off, but came back after a traffic light stop. Oil & coolant level OK, no light in the instrument cluster Before bring it to the mechanic any advices are welcome (It seems to be a valve lifter isn’t it ?) Christophe SALVAING Web site : http://christophe.salvaing.free.fr Family, Cars (Ford Aerostar LPG, Chevy Suburban LPG, AMC Pacer, Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, Pontiac Montana), Kitesurfing …

Response:

How long since the last oil change? "Christophe Salvaing"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi listers My ‘00 Venture (52K miles) got a rapid tapping sound today. After an hour driving in traffic jam, I stopped in a mall. When I started again, there was a loud "tac tac tac" that became faster as the engine speed increase. I stopped the engine and started again. Still the same problem. After driving 5 miles the sounds went off, but came back after a traffic light stop. Oil & coolant level OK, no light in the instrument cluster Before bring it to the mechanic any advices are welcome (It seems to be a valve lifter isn’t it ?) Christophe SALVAING Web site : http://christophe.salvaing.free.fr Family, Cars (Ford Aerostar LPG, Chevy Suburban LPG, AMC Pacer, Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, Pontiac Montana), Kitesurfing …

Response:

Oil 5W30 changed every 3000 miles – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How long since the last oil change? "Christophe Salvaing" Hi listers My ‘00 Venture (52K miles) got a rapid tapping sound today. After an hour driving in traffic jam, I stopped in a mall. When I started again, there was a loud "tac tac tac" that became faster as the engine speed increase. I stopped the engine and started again. Still the same problem. After driving 5 miles the sounds went off, but came back after a traffic light stop. Oil & coolant level OK, no light in the instrument cluster Before bring it to the mechanic any advices are welcome (It seems to be a valve lifter isn’t it ?) Christophe SALVAING Web site : http://christophe.salvaing.free.fr Family, Cars (Ford Aerostar LPG, Chevy Suburban LPG, AMC Pacer, Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, Pontiac Montana), Kitesurfing …

Response:

Hi listers My ‘00 Venture (52K miles) got a rapid tapping sound today. After an hour driving in traffic jam, I stopped in a mall. When I started again, there was a loud "tac tac tac" that became faster as the engine speed increase. I stopped the engine and started again. Still the same problem. After driving 5 miles the sounds went off, but came back after a traffic light stop. Oil & coolant level OK, no light in the instrument cluster Before bring it to the mechanic any advices are welcome (It seems to be a valve lifter isn’t it ?) Christophe SALVAING Web site : http://christophe.salvaing.free.fr Family, Cars (Ford Aerostar LPG, Chevy Suburban LPG, AMC Pacer, Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, Pontiac Montana), Kitesurfing …

Response:

Have you been loosing coolant? Any signs of coolant in oil? That engine suffers from lower intake manifold gasket leaks. Have it checked out soon…. "Christophe Salvaing"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi listers My ‘00 Venture (52K miles) got a rapid tapping sound today. After an hour driving in traffic jam, I stopped in a mall. When I started again, there was a loud "tac tac tac" that became faster as the engine speed increase. I stopped the engine and started again. Still the same problem. After driving 5 miles the sounds went off, but came back after a traffic light stop. Oil & coolant level OK, no light in the instrument cluster Before bring it to the mechanic any advices are welcome (It seems to be a valve lifter isn’t it ?) Christophe SALVAING Web site : http://christophe.salvaing.free.fr Family, Cars (Ford Aerostar LPG, Chevy Suburban LPG, AMC Pacer, Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, Pontiac Montana), Kitesurfing …

Response:

Mine made a ticking sound that turned out to be from the serpintine belt. It made noise upon initial startup in the morning, then went away pretty soon afterwards. When I had the car in for other work, I mentioned it to the mechanic and he hit it with some belt dressing and the problem immediately went away. I eventually replaced the belt.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

You know, while I will stand by the belt offering of the previous post, the valve lifters could also be the source of the tapping that you hear. The lifters get gunk and tarnish inside them that makes them stick in a slightly collapsed state, then they make a tick noise the next go-around of the cam. You can clean the clean the gunk and tarnish out with any of several different products that go into the oil. Automatic Transmission Fluid is a very high detergent product that will help this problem. The problem with the AFT is that while it cleans out the tarnish, it cleans out the tarnish. What you may notice later is new seepage around some of the seals.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mine made a ticking sound that turned out to be from the serpintine belt. It made noise upon initial startup in the morning, then went away pretty soon afterwards. When I had the car in for other work, I mentioned it to the mechanic and he hit it with some belt dressing and the problem immediately went away. I eventually replaced the belt. I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Sounds like the hydraulic tappets. It won’t do any harm to leave them, but replace them to stop the noise first thing in the morning.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Is it very cold where you live?  If so, the oil you are using may be too heavy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sounds like the hydraulic tappets. It won’t do any harm to leave them, but replace them to stop the noise first thing in the morning. I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Even with the correct oil in the UK, it is not uncommon for this to happen.

Response:

That is certainly true.  I just wanted to make sure he wasn’t heavy oil in a very cold climate.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Even with the correct oil in the UK, it is not uncommon for this to happen.

Response:

81.77.168.27, which puts you in Great Britain. I would recommend 10W40

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks everyone, it makes sense that it could be the oil as I’ve just had the car serviced, I’ve only really noticed it since then maybe the garage used a heavier oil, what grade should be used bearing in mind 1991 325i with 130K on the clock? Once I know the type of oil I can go back to the garage. Cheers guys I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Thanks everyone, it makes sense that it could be the oil as I’ve just had the car serviced, I’ve only really noticed it since then maybe the garage used a heavier oil, what grade should be used bearing in mind 1991 325i with 130K on the clock? Once I know the type of oil I can go back to the garage. Cheers guys

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Where do you live?  The correct oil will depend on the outside temperature. You would choose a lighter oil if you live in Edmonton than you would choose if you live in Miami.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks everyone, it makes sense that it could be the oil as I’ve just had the car serviced, I’ve only really noticed it since then maybe the garage used a heavier oil, what grade should be used bearing in mind 1991 325i with 130K on the clock? Once I know the type of oil I can go back to the garage. Cheers guys I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Sounds like the hydraulic tappets. It won’t do any harm to leave them, but replace them to stop the noise first thing in the morning. Make sure you’re using the correct grade of oil as thick oil will

take longer to pump up the lifters.

Response:

I have 1996 328i that is periodically makes a tapping sound when running. It almost sounds like a valve tap, but it is not. The tapping does not change as the RPMs do; it remains constant. The dealer stated it could be a sensor but would not elaborate other that to ask if I wanted to schedule an appointment. If anyone has experienced this or can help, I’d appreciate it. Thanks, Mike

Response:

My wife’s 318i developed a mysterious gentle tapping last spring.  After several hours driving and looking under the hood I discovered that it was the climate control system.  When the temperature was set close to ambient, the heater was clicking on/off courtesy of 2 solenoids mounted in the engine bay on the firewall.  In cold weather, this hardly happens because the solenoids are almost always open, and in warm weather, always closed. Try setting the temperature either very high or very low.  If it stops tapping, or slows down, it’s probably the cause. We lived with it and it seemed to get quieter – or maybe we’re used to it now. Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have 1996 328i that is periodically makes a tapping sound when running. It almost sounds like a valve tap, but it is not. The tapping does not change as the RPMs do; it remains constant. The dealer stated it could be a sensor but would not elaborate other that to ask if I wanted to schedule an appointment. If anyone has experienced this or can help, I’d appreciate it. Thanks, Mike

Response:

Mine made a ticking sound that turned out to be from the serpintine belt. It made noise upon initial startup in the morning, then went away pretty soon afterwards. When I had the car in for other work, I mentioned it to the mechanic and he hit it with some belt dressing and the problem immediately went away. I eventually replaced the belt.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

You know, while I will stand by the belt offering of the previous post, the valve lifters could also be the source of the tapping that you hear. The lifters get gunk and tarnish inside them that makes them stick in a slightly collapsed state, then they make a tick noise the next go-around of the cam. You can clean the clean the gunk and tarnish out with any of several different products that go into the oil. Automatic Transmission Fluid is a very high detergent product that will help this problem. The problem with the AFT is that while it cleans out the tarnish, it cleans out the tarnish. What you may notice later is new seepage around some of the seals.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mine made a ticking sound that turned out to be from the serpintine belt. It made noise upon initial startup in the morning, then went away pretty soon afterwards. When I had the car in for other work, I mentioned it to the mechanic and he hit it with some belt dressing and the problem immediately went away. I eventually replaced the belt. I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Sounds like the hydraulic tappets. It won’t do any harm to leave them, but replace them to stop the noise first thing in the morning.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Is it very cold where you live?  If so, the oil you are using may be too heavy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sounds like the hydraulic tappets. It won’t do any harm to leave them, but replace them to stop the noise first thing in the morning. I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Even with the correct oil in the UK, it is not uncommon for this to happen.

Response:

That is certainly true.  I just wanted to make sure he wasn’t heavy oil in a very cold climate.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Even with the correct oil in the UK, it is not uncommon for this to happen.

Response:

81.77.168.27, which puts you in Great Britain. I would recommend 10W40

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks everyone, it makes sense that it could be the oil as I’ve just had the car serviced, I’ve only really noticed it since then maybe the garage used a heavier oil, what grade should be used bearing in mind 1991 325i with 130K on the clock? Once I know the type of oil I can go back to the garage. Cheers guys I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Thanks everyone, it makes sense that it could be the oil as I’ve just had the car serviced, I’ve only really noticed it since then maybe the garage used a heavier oil, what grade should be used bearing in mind 1991 325i with 130K on the clock? Once I know the type of oil I can go back to the garage. Cheers guys

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Where do you live?  The correct oil will depend on the outside temperature. You would choose a lighter oil if you live in Edmonton than you would choose if you live in Miami.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks everyone, it makes sense that it could be the oil as I’ve just had the car serviced, I’ve only really noticed it since then maybe the garage used a heavier oil, what grade should be used bearing in mind 1991 325i with 130K on the clock? Once I know the type of oil I can go back to the garage. Cheers guys I have a 1991 325i and have noticed at tapping sound coming from the engine during idling, this usually occurs when starting first thing in the morning after a night on the drive, although it tends to clear itself after a while. The tapping appears to be getting a little more noticeable just lately. Any ideas and/or remedies?  I have the car serviced every 6 months. Many thanks

Response:

Sounds like the hydraulic tappets. It won’t do any harm to leave them, but replace them to stop the noise first thing in the morning. Make sure you’re using the correct grade of oil as thick oil will

take longer to pump up the lifters.

Response:

I have 1996 328i that is periodically makes a tapping sound when running. It almost sounds like a valve tap, but it is not. The tapping does not change as the RPMs do; it remains constant. The dealer stated it could be a sensor but would not elaborate other that to ask if I wanted to schedule an appointment. If anyone has experienced this or can help, I’d appreciate it. Thanks, Mike

Response:

My wife’s 318i developed a mysterious gentle tapping last spring.  After several hours driving and looking under the hood I discovered that it was the climate control system.  When the temperature was set close to ambient, the heater was clicking on/off courtesy of 2 solenoids mounted in the engine bay on the firewall.  In cold weather, this hardly happens because the solenoids are almost always open, and in warm weather, always closed. Try setting the temperature either very high or very low.  If it stops tapping, or slows down, it’s probably the cause. We lived with it and it seemed to get quieter – or maybe we’re used to it now. Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have 1996 328i that is periodically makes a tapping sound when running. It almost sounds like a valve tap, but it is not. The tapping does not change as the RPMs do; it remains constant. The dealer stated it could be a sensor but would not elaborate other that to ask if I wanted to schedule an appointment. If anyone has experienced this or can help, I’d appreciate it. Thanks, Mike

Response:

Question:

My present car below the name

Is that your present car, or a historical monument? —Bob Gross—

Response:

I know it. I sold my 66 Chevy step side pickup with new 327 engine for a grand. Crap that’s two months payments for the 03 LT ext cab.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – his discount is $276 + whatever the gasket cost he has to order. Was hoping to get a few more miles out of the original, but its acting up. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_ ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan The car companies are having difficulty getting the price on new cars. Now even the rebates are not as effective. The vehicles just are not worth it. So they are making a concerted effort to raise prices of parts to make up for it in profit and drive buyers to replace older vehicles. You will be hearing more about this as it develops. I’m thinking of going back to a 60’s ride to avoid the prices. I could have a very nice vehicle for less money.

Response:

My present car below the name Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

I believe an EGR is Warranted 5 years because it is emission related.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – discount is $276 + whatever the gasket cost he has to order. Was hoping to get a few more miles out of the original, but its acting up. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE 3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_ ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

I believe an EGR is Warranted 5 years because it is emission related.

Relevant news 8 years ago.

Response:

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SE… ULTS&MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=FE3009&PartType=282&PTSet=A $220 for the valve and a few bucks more for the gasket. http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectParts.asp?SourceArea=&PartType=283&… &Description=Emissions&SourcePage=PartTypes&SearchFor=EGR+Valve+Gasket The PartsAmerica.com Team includes Advance Auto Parts, Checker Auto Parts, Schuck’s Auto Supply, Kragen Auto Parts and CSK Auto, Inc UNLESS you want the factory original,  then it will cost you bunches more. Eightupman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – discount is $276 + whatever the gasket cost he has to order. Was hoping to get a few more miles out of the original, but its acting up. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_ ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

Bobby G wrote Is that your present car or a historical monument? If these parts keep failing it will be my former car ! Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

discount is $276 + whatever the gasket cost he has to order. Was hoping to get a few more miles out of the original, but its acting up. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

Which car does this go on?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – discount is $276 + whatever the gasket cost he has to order. Was hoping to get a few more miles out of the original, but its acting up. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_ ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – his discount is $276 + whatever the gasket cost he has to order. Was hoping to get a few more miles out of the original, but its acting up. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~296,785 miles_~_~_ ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

The car companies are having difficulty getting the price on new cars. Now even the rebates are not as effective. The vehicles just are not worth it. So they are making a concerted effort to raise prices of parts to make up for it in profit and drive buyers to replace older vehicles. You will be hearing more about this as it develops. I’m thinking of going back to a 60’s ride to avoid the prices. I could have a very nice vehicle for less money.

Response:

Question:

I have a 91 Caprice Classic in mint con. for sale… Is this acceptable in this newsgroup? Thanks

No.  This group is for vehicle problems and fixes. Many town/cities have their own "for sale" newsgroups. Houston, Texas has  houston.forsale. If you are in Houston, then you could post it there.

Response:

I have a 91 Caprice Classic in mint con. for sale… Is this acceptable in this newsgroup? Thanks

Response:

Mmmmhhh …. rec.autos.marketplace is your friend Good luck ) Christophe SALVAING Web site : http://christophe.salvaing.free.fr Family, Cars (Ford Aerostar LPG, Chevy Suburban LPG, AMC Pacer, Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, Pontiac Montana), Kitesurfing … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 91 Caprice Classic in mint con. for sale… Is this acceptable in this newsgroup? Thanks

Response:

Question:

You’ll have better headroom in the 91 SSE. Some gripes I remember reading about the Olds was a poor windsheild defroster. Also there are some knobs down low that are hard to reach because the shift lever blocks them somewhat.  The trunk was big & wide with non intrusive hinges. The GP in 97 ( I think ) had a problem with the headlight lenses falling off. I know some years had bad water leaks in the cowl area. I think the GP had some issues with the power steering rack as well. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~294,824 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey all. As you may already know, I currently own a 1991 Bonneville SSE. She’s loaded to the tilt, but I am seriously considering upgrading to either a Pontiac Grand Prix or a Olds Intrigue. The year range I am thinking of is 97-98 (the GP’s got there ‘new’ look in ‘97, and I like that the ‘97-98 Intrigue’s come with the 3800 instead of the 3.5L that they got later in life). What are your opinions on these two vehicles? I am not into the supercharged 3800, as gas prices are out of this world, but as I said, I do want the 3800. I like options, so sun roof is good. I don’t care what model the car’s are, as long as they are loaded (but I do hate the bottom of the line SE on the GP). Basically what I am asking is what are the major differences? I know the GP is more sportier then the Olds, but what else? Sound system differences? Ride differences? Handling differences? From what I know, they are basically the same car, with the Olds being more luxury and the GP more sportier…but what else?…One more thing…What do you also think of these two cars compared to my ‘91 Bonnie SSE? Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated… Thanks all.

The supercharged engine isn’t as thirsty as you might have been led to believe (a lot depends on your right foot).  The Olds is targeted at an "Old’er" crowd, the Pontiac at a younger crowd with the corresponding initial owners and setups.   Just for fun try calling your insurance company and see if there’s any premium difference between the two if you don’t care about the label. might save a $ or 2 Mechanically and structurally they’re pretty similar however simple suspension tuning and interior changes can make for quite a difference.  You’ll have to live with the car you get so it’ll be wise to test drive a few first to clarify the differences.  I like the comfort (hence my choice in the Olds) but I could certainly live with a Bonneville SSEi  if I "had" to.  

Response:

Thanks for the opinions.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey all. As you may already know, I currently own a 1991 Bonneville SSE. She’s loaded to the tilt, but I am seriously considering upgrading to either a Pontiac Grand Prix or a Olds Intrigue. The year range I am thinking of is 97-98 (the GP’s got there ‘new’ look in ‘97, and I like that the ‘97-98 Intrigue’s come with the 3800 instead of the 3.5L that they got later in life). What are your opinions on these two vehicles? I am not into the supercharged 3800, as gas prices are out of this world, but as I said, I do want the 3800. I like options, so sun roof is good. I don’t care what model the car’s are, as long as they are loaded (but I do hate the bottom of the line SE on the GP). Basically what I am asking is what are the major differences? I know the GP is more sportier then the Olds, but what else? Sound system differences? Ride differences? Handling differences? From what I know, they are basically the same car, with the Olds being more luxury and the GP more sportier…but what else?…One more thing…What do you also think of these two cars compared to my ‘91 Bonnie SSE? Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated… Thanks all. — 80Knight –1991 Pontiac Bonneville SSE Sedan –3800 V6 –190,000 KM’s Bonnie’s Website’s: http://www.geocities.com/brandon_80_knight/

Response:

Question:

Assuming it’s daylight, the behavior is not normal.  The DRL should come  on when releasing the parking brake…not the regular lights.  On some  vehicles the car needs to be in gear as well. Just wondering if you might be doing this in a garage (dark).

Nope.  Outside.  Sunny day.  I found the sensor…gonna try to clean it in case it’s dirty and thinks it’s dark out.  Odd that it only mis-behaves when I start it with the e-brake engaged.  Almost sounds like the module might have a problem.  Any ideas where that’s hidden?

Response:

Question:

Is there a jumper I must short or what to read Codes from this machine?  My grandmother has had her engine light lit for some time, and I don’t think her garage has figured it out?!? Also, for several years the Check Guages indicator is lit.  What exactly trips that, is it an individual signal from each guage or fed from a computer somewhere? Nice little car, 60,000 miles. Any sites or assistance appreciated. Thanks. Deacon Eisenhart

Response:

Is there a jumper I must short or what to read Codes from this machine?

According to the Haynes Repair Manual, "on some OBD 1 models with a 12-pin Data Link Connector, trouble codes can be accessed by connecting terminal B with terminal A with a jumper wire with the ignition key in the ON position and the codes can be read by watching the flashes of the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light." Do not crank or start the engine when terminals A and B are connected, the ECM could be damaged. The pin layout is F E D C B A                          G H J K L M A is ground, B is the diagnostic test terminal. The book also says that some models with the 12-pin connector do not have a terminal B present.  In that case you’ll need a scan tool. the Check Guages indicator is lit.  What exactly trips that

No idea. good luck

Response:

I can tell you that I have owned 2 Pontiac Grand Prix’s, a 1991 and a 1992, and both had dash lights on that were on for no reason. I heard that dash boards of that era were faulty at times, such as on my cars, where the Check Gauges and Low Fuel lights were on all the time. Also, the Oil Pressure gauge did not work on either car, and does not work on my ‘91 Bonnie either. — 80 Knight My Karr’s Website: http://www.geocities.com/brandon_80_knight/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is there a jumper I must short or what to read Codes from this machine? My grandmother has had her engine light lit for some time, and I don’t think her garage has figured it out?!? Also, for several years the Check Guages indicator is lit.  What exactly trips that, is it an individual signal from each guage or fed from a computer somewhere? Nice little car, 60,000 miles. Any sites or assistance appreciated. Thanks. Deacon Eisenhart

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Some GM vehicles had problems with the cluster-controlled lights such as Check Gauges behaving erratically because of bad solder joints on the cluster PCB, but the Check Engine light is always controlled directly by the ECM. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I can tell you that I have owned 2 Pontiac Grand Prix’s, a 1991 and a 1992, and both had dash lights on that were on for no reason. I heard that dash boards of that era were faulty at times, such as on my cars, where the Check Gauges and Low Fuel lights were on all the time. Also, the Oil Pressure gauge did not work on either car, and does not work on my ‘91 Bonnie either. — 80 Knight My Karr’s Website: http://www.geocities.com/brandon_80_knight/ Is there a jumper I must short or what to read Codes from this machine? My grandmother has had her engine light lit for some time, and I don’t think her garage has figured it out?!? Also, for several years the Check Guages indicator is lit.  What exactly trips that, is it an individual signal from each guage or fed from a computer somewhere? Nice little car, 60,000 miles. Any sites or assistance appreciated. Thanks. Deacon Eisenhart

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Rich B wrote in alt.autos.gm Aaah but were you driving 70 mph?  I routinely get 36+ mpg highway on my 2002 Impala with the 3.4 liter engine and I get 17 to 20 mpg highway on my 1990 Suburban with the 5.7 Liter engine and 183,795 miles on it. This is on trips to the Carolinas where speeds range from 60 mph to 70 mph.  Too many people don’t know (nor do they care) how to maintain a vehicle to get the best fuel mileage from it.  With things the way they are today, I’m surpised that the national speed limit of 55 mph hasn’t been re-introduced (after all, it was initially established to save gas).

After I bought an 88 Buick Park Avenue, 3.8, I drove it mostly around town and got only about 15-17 mpg. Then I drove it about 300 miles across state and got a little over 30mpg. I a have made that trip many times and  everytime I got worse mileage on the way back than on the way over.  Ended up getting over 35 mpg coming back. Needless to say, I was very impressed with the difference. — Dick #1349 "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~Benjamin Franklin Home Page: dickcr.iwarp.com

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Aaah but were you driving 70 mph?  

Anywhere between 70 and 75MPH.

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I decided to test these two cars for fuel consumption this weekend.  It is an approximate figure as I do my best to fill up the car to a point where it almost overflow. Test vehicles:  2000 Pontiac Sunfire GT with automatic transmission. Engine type 2.4 L  Fuel type: Regular 1993 Bonneville SSEi with automatic transmission. Engine type 3.8 with supercharged Fuel type: Premium Test Conditions: 1/ proper tire pressure were verified. Both cars has 16 inch tires 2/ same amount of passengers (4 passengers about 670 lbs including the driver) 3/ Bonneville SSEi (1993 with 190,139 miles (306,000 km) on the motor and good running engine and has roof rack with a bike on top. 4/ Sunfire GT has 40,389 miles (65,000 km) on the motor and good running engine 5/ Air condition "OFF" 6/ Average speed = 70 mile/hour with excellent road condition (no hill). 7/ Unfortunately: Bonneville trip was driven during a windy day (not sure about the wind speed but more than a breeze with outside temperature 59 F) 8/ Sunfire was driven on nice calm day with outside air temperature of 68 F 9/ Total trip distance= 155.34 mile (250 km) Results: a/ Sunfire GT: 29.62 mile/gallon or 12.59 km/liter b/ Bonneville SSEi: 22.31 mile/gallon or 9.48 km/liter I thought I could get a bit more mile per gallon with the Bonnie.  Oh well, Bonnie ride was much more pleasant and comfortable than Sunfire.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I decided to test these two cars for fuel consumption this weekend.  It is an approximate figure as I do my best to fill up the car to a point where it almost overflow. Test vehicles:  2000 Pontiac Sunfire GT with automatic transmission. Engine type 2.4 L  Fuel type: Regular 1993 Bonneville SSEi with automatic transmission. Engine type 3.8 with supercharged Fuel type: Premium Test Conditions: 1/ proper tire pressure were verified. Both cars has 16 inch tires 2/ same amount of passengers (4 passengers about 670 lbs including the driver) 3/ Bonneville SSEi (1993 with 190,139 miles (306,000 km) on the motor and good running engine and has roof rack with a bike on top. 4/ Sunfire GT has 40,389 miles (65,000 km) on the motor and good running engine 5/ Air condition "OFF" 6/ Average speed = 70 mile/hour with excellent road condition (no hill). 7/ Unfortunately: Bonneville trip was driven during a windy day (not sure about the wind speed but more than a breeze with outside temperature 59 F) 8/ Sunfire was driven on nice calm day with outside air temperature of 68 F 9/ Total trip distance= 155.34 mile (250 km) Results: a/ Sunfire GT: 29.62 mile/gallon or 12.59 km/liter b/ Bonneville SSEi: 22.31 mile/gallon or 9.48 km/liter I thought I could get a bit more mile per gallon with the Bonnie.  Oh well, Bonnie ride was much more pleasant and comfortable than Sunfire.

Different strokes for different folks, good that GM can make a decent car that does 30mpg though, I love that new ecotec motor, when its design characteristics penetrate further into GM’s engineering department we’ll see some really cool stuff.

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Results: a/ Sunfire GT: 29.62 mile/gallon or 12.59 km/liter b/ Bonneville SSEi: 22.31 mile/gallon or 9.48 km/liter

FWIW, going from TX to the Grand Canyon with my Bonneville SLE (normally aspirated 3.8) it averaged 29MPG.  On trips to Houston (180mls), my Intrigue (3.5 DOHC V6) gets up to 32MPG.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – message ellglobal.com… Results: a/ Sunfire GT: 29.62 mile/gallon or 12.59 km/liter b/ Bonneville SSEi: 22.31 mile/gallon or 9.48 km/liter FWIW, going from TX to the Grand Canyon with my Bonneville SLE (normally aspirated 3.8) it averaged 29MPG. On trips to Houston (180mls), my Intrigue (3.5 DOHC V6) gets up to 32MPG.

Aaah but were you driving 70 mph?  I routinely get 36+ mpg highway on my 2002 Impala with the 3.4 liter engine and I get 17 to 20 mpg highway on my 1990 Suburban with the 5.7 Liter engine and 183,795 miles on it. This is on trips to the Carolinas where speeds range from 60 mph to 70 mph.  Too many people don’t know (nor do they care) how to maintain a vehicle to get the best fuel mileage from it.  With things the way they are today, I’m surpised that the national speed limit of 55 mph hasn’t been re-introduced (after all, it was initially established to save gas). There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor traffic – the quick and the dead. ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~ Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol.  It is the great equalizer.  ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~

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My 2001 Z28 with a 5.7 liter V8 is rated to get up to 28 mpg highway. I have gotten around 27 mpg with it.  This is an LS1 normally aspirated pushrod engine.   Results: a/ Sunfire GT: 29.62 mile/gallon or 12.59 km/liter b/ Bonneville SSEi: 22.31 mile/gallon or 9.48 km/liter FWIW, going from TX to the Grand Canyon with my Bonneville SLE (normally aspirated 3.8) it averaged 29MPG.  On trips to Houston (180mls), my Intrigue (3.5 DOHC V6) gets up to 32MPG.

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I get 26 to 27 highway on an LS1 5.7 liter in a 2001 Z28 with low milage.  I drive around 70-72 mph on the interstates with cruise and no mountains (gently sloping terrain mostly). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – message ellglobal.com… Results: a/ Sunfire GT: 29.62 mile/gallon or 12.59 km/liter b/ Bonneville SSEi: 22.31 mile/gallon or 9.48 km/liter FWIW, going from TX to the Grand Canyon with my Bonneville SLE (normally aspirated 3.8) it averaged 29MPG. On trips to Houston (180mls), my Intrigue (3.5 DOHC V6) gets up to 32MPG. Aaah but were you driving 70 mph?  I routinely get 36+ mpg highway on my 2002 Impala with the 3.4 liter engine and I get 17 to 20 mpg highway on my 1990 Suburban with the 5.7 Liter engine and 183,795 miles on it. This is on trips to the Carolinas where speeds range from 60 mph to 70 mph.  Too many people don’t know (nor do they care) how to maintain a vehicle to get the best fuel mileage from it.  With things the way they are today, I’m surpised that the national speed limit of 55 mph hasn’t been re-introduced (after all, it was initially established to save gas). There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor traffic – the quick and the dead. ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~ Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol.  It is the great equalizer.  ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~

** To email a reply, please remove everything up to and including the underscore in my email reply header.

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