Question:

Well, I was hoping, rightly or wrongly, that by eating low carb and with some exercise, I would naturally regulate how much I eat, without thinking too much or going hungry.

There is no such thing as natural weight regulation, at least for a good portion of people. Guess which group you are in? Your drive to eat is omnipresent, encoded in multiple overlapping systems. It doesn’t matter what you eat. Food is survival. Your body wants you to eat. That’s how you survive on the savannha. So, I am concerned that as my body adjusted to LC, this diet will stop working as well. Time will tell if that’s so. I am very busy with some projects right now, and I would very much like to be on some sort of diet that lets me concentrate on something else besides eating. LC was "it", but now I am beginning to have concerns.

It’s a daily struggle. There’s no "it." The good news you have been doing well and can continue to do well. It’s just not automatic.

Response:

I would not think that a single event, like a birthday indulgence would be the trigger.  The clues to the change would be in the regular everyday menu. IMHO Adding a few pounds a year is the typical symptom of the modern diet.  I was expecting that eating Paleo would avoid the list of possible causes for that gain. Thanks for keeping us updated. I’m 5′ 8" and this weight (we are almost exactly the same weight now)  is obviously too high for me.  I’m carrying fat in a paunch and on my upper arms near my shoulders.   I’m thinking I should set a new goal around 150. I plan to wait until I reach the original goal of 165 before changing my goal officially.   Are you taller, or heavy boned, or very muscular?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In the months just before the regain were you still eating Paleo, or had you added grain and starch based foods back in? I was still eating paleo, however I deviated from it by drinking some wine on my birthday party etc, plus I ate cheese. I may have eaten something starchy inadvertently, it is possible, but I have no specific recollections. It is also possible that my body is adjusting to low carb in some way and, possibly, I can now gain weight even on this diet. Time will tell. i As I mentioned earlier, about a month ago (could be aa little more) I regained 3-4 lbs, quite suddenly, for no known reason. I was hoping that I could re-lose that weight by eating low carb, without expressly trying to "eat less". In the few previous regains of 1-2 lbs, that worked just fine. JC Der Koenig expressed doubt that it would work. I must say that JC was correct. I was eating super cleanly, and was neither gaining nor losing weight, not coming back to 173. After becoming certain of that, last week I decided to try "eating less". I skipped breakfast and lunch and ate a good sized meal in the evening. That did it and as of today, I was at my desired weight of 173.6 lbs. (the middle number in my weight signature is the average of last 7 weights and is slow to reflect changes). I will try to lose 1-2 more lbs next week and staying at or below 173 lbs. — 223/175.6/180

Response:

In the months just before the regain were you still eating Paleo, or had you added grain and starch based foods back in?

The amount of weight you are losing or gaining is very small. It’s just a few extra calories a day. Maybe look at slightly larger portion sizes or a decrease in your exercise.

Response:

In the months just before the regain were you still eating Paleo, or had you added grain and starch based foods back in?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As I mentioned earlier, about a month ago (could be aa little more) I regained 3-4 lbs, quite suddenly, for no known reason. I was hoping that I could re-lose that weight by eating low carb, without expressly trying to "eat less". In the few previous regains of 1-2 lbs, that worked just fine. JC Der Koenig expressed doubt that it would work. I must say that JC was correct. I was eating super cleanly, and was neither gaining nor losing weight, not coming back to 173. After becoming certain of that, last week I decided to try "eating less". I skipped breakfast and lunch and ate a good sized meal in the evening. That did it and as of today, I was at my desired weight of 173.6 lbs. (the middle number in my weight signature is the average of last 7 weights and is slow to reflect changes). I will try to lose 1-2 more lbs next week and staying at or below 173 lbs. — 223/175.6/180

Response:

After becoming certain of that, last week I decided to try "eating less". I skipped breakfast and lunch and ate a good sized meal in the evening.

Skipping meals(in effect not eating all day)and then having one big meal is going to mess with your metabolism. You will find it harder and harder to lose any stored bodyfat and your body will probably store as much as possible from that one big meal. Starving makes you fatter not leaner. The scale lies.  http://skwigg.tripod.com/id12.html This also reminded me of an article I read about Olympic athletes and food timing – you would think they would all know better, but the ones who skipped meals were the fattest of the lot. Those who ate smaller portioned meals 5-6 times a day were the leanest. So you could be ‘eating less’ but portioned out thruout the day for best results. joni

Response:

I could do what you suggested, also (eating less but in several meals). I figure, a week of eating once a day should not do any damage and it was relatively easy to do for a week. After all, all I had to lose was 2-3 lbs.

Yes, anything will do for losing a few pounds, that’s what crash diets were created for: people who need to shake off a few pounds quickly. The problem starts when obese people want to drop 50 or 100lbs on one of these plans, you can live on cabbage soup for a week but not for 6 months. I have become relatively skeptical about all these claims about metabolism, lately.

True. After all, it’s a question of physics: if it takes a certain amount of energy for something (chemical reaction, motion, temperature change, etc.) to happen, how can it happen on a lot less energy? I’ve seen claims that your metabolism ‘will drop down to 50%’, this doesn’t make any sense, after all if your body could be run on half the energy, why not do it all the time? If you could tweak your car to run on 50% of the fuel, would you tweak it back to use the full amount? There are energy-saving tips’n'tricks for drivers that will reduce fuel consumption by modest amounts, this must be the kind of thing that your body does when it goes into ’starvation’ mode, i.e. trying to save bits of energy here & there, which is why people feel cold & tired when they don’t eat. Our bodies must have been designed for irregular eating, otherwise why the limitless ability to store fat? If we were designed to eat 3 or 4 regular meals day in day out, we’d only be able to store a few pounds of fat for, say, a period of sickness during which we couldn’t eat. If there’s any BMR change, it’s likely to be +/- 10% or thereabouts and only temporarily, it’s not like if you starve yourself for a week you’ll have a lower BMR forever.

Response:

Yes, anything will do for losing a few pounds, that’s what crash diets were created for: people who need to shake off a few pounds quickly. The problem starts when obese people want to drop 50 or 100lbs on one of these plans, you can live on cabbage soup for a week but not for 6 months. Although I agree with you, what I did last week (and plan on repeating this week) was not a crash diet. I ate, probably, around 1,500 cals per day.

I just mentioned it ‘coz people say it would ’screw your metabolism’. Any diet or meal plan followed for only a short time is not likely to have long-term ill effects unless you have a medical condition. I’ve seen claims that your metabolism ‘will drop down to 50%’, this doesn’t make any sense, after all if your body could be run on half the energy, why not do it all the time? If you could tweak your car to run on 50% of the fuel, would you tweak it back to use the full amount? Not so sure about cars. Um, compare two cars, a Toyota Corolla with a small engine, and a Corvette with a big V8. Both, really, do the same thing, which getting the driver from point A to point B. But the Corvette will burn a lot more fuel. Why do people choose Corvettes? I would not choose one, but they have their reasons.

You’re comparing two different cars, which is like two different bodies. I wouldn’t have lost 3lbs in a week eating 1,500 cals/day ‘coz I have a smaller body. But I was referring to the car you already have and being able to run it on a lot less fuel whilst getting the same performance from it, as it’s supposed to happen with your body when your metabolism gets ’screwed up by dieting’. Our bodies must have been designed for irregular eating, otherwise why the limitless ability to store fat? If we were designed to eat 3 or 4 regular meals day in day out, we’d only be able to store a few pounds of fat for, say, a period of sickness during which we couldn’t eat. If there’s any BMR change, it’s likely to be +/- 10% or thereabouts and only temporarily, it’s not like if you starve yourself for a week you’ll have a lower BMR forever. All true. I am not in the least concerned that one or two weeks of eating once a day (with regular eating on weekend) are going to ruin my metabolism.

I don’t think you can really ‘ruin your metabolism’ as such. It does slow down a little on low cal intake but you still lose weight, and so do anorexics who eat almost nothing. And it picks up as soon as you eat more cals, it doesn’t stay ‘lowered’ forever. There are some people with metabolic issues but they quite rare and have other causes.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After becoming certain of that, last week I decided to try "eating less". I skipped breakfast and lunch and ate a good sized meal in the evening. How do you know the weight you gained was fat you needed to lose and not muscle you want to keep? Well, I did not change my exercise routine in any way…

And I guess you didn’t start taking steroids either… it’s not possible to gain several pounds of muscle in a week or two, I think the average gain is more like10lbs/yr or thereabouts.

Response:

After becoming certain of that, last week I decided to try "eating less". I skipped breakfast and lunch and ate a good sized meal in the evening.

How do you know the weight you gained was fat you needed to lose and not muscle you want to keep? — No Husband Has Ever Been Shot While Doing The Dishes

Response:

I have become relatively skeptical about all these claims about metabolism, lately. True. After all, it’s a question of physics:

But it’s not. I find it hard to believe people don’t think the body can adapt to survival by making choices of where to spend resources. Plus it has been shown to happen, so there’s not much to argue about. if it takes a certain amount of energy for something (chemical reaction, motion, temperature change, etc.) to happen, how can it happen on a lot less energy? I’ve seen claims that your metabolism ‘will drop down to 50%’, this doesn’t make any sense, after all if your body could be run on half the energy, why not do it all the time?

When my car is low on gass i drive slower. Why don’t i drive slower all the time? Our bodies must have been designed for irregular eating, otherwise why the limitless ability to store fat? If we were designed to eat 3 or 4 regular meals day in day out, we’d only be able to store a few pounds of fat for, say, a period of sickness during which we couldn’t eat.

But interestingly we don’t store other things like essential fatty acids and proteins. But we store fat.

Response:

: : In the months just before the regain were you still eating Paleo, : or had you added grain and starch based foods back in? : : The amount of weight you are losing or gaining is very small. It’s : just : a few extra calories a day. Maybe look at slightly larger portion : sizes : or a decrease in your exercise. : : Well, I was hoping, rightly or wrongly, that by eating low carb and : with some exercise, I would naturally regulate how much I eat, : without thinking too much or going hungry. : As a former fat person, I just don’t think it will ever be that way for you. Sorry. : I started eating low carb at normal weight, way after I lost 50 : lbs. The main rationale for going LC was to be able to maintain : weight : without being hungry all the time, like I was when I was maintaining : weight on a general "eat less" diet. That was the hope. Well, you weren’t hungry all the time…were you?  It seems you were successful. : : It worked quite beautifully in the first 8 months. I was eating all I : wanted, and was not gaining. Sometimes I would gain a couple of lbs : temporarily and they would go away in a couple of weeks. It was a : fairly carefree existence. Then I gained 3-5 lbs in March, and it : would not go away until I decided to tough it out and "eat less" for : one week. Seems like I recall they came very quickly and, according to this, you lost them in a week.  Not bad if you ask me. : : So, I am concerned that as my body adjusted to LC, this diet will : stop : working as well. Time will tell if that’s so. I am very busy with : some projects right now, and I would very much like to be on some : sort of : diet that lets me concentrate on something else besides eating. LC : was "it", but now I am beginning to have concerns. IMO, you’re worrying about nothing.  Keep doing what you’re doing, and if you pick up a few pounds, restricting eating for a week to settle down. It’s just your way…live it with.

Response:

Not so sure about cars. Um, compare two cars, a Toyota Corolla with a small engine, and a Corvette with a big V8. Both, really, do the same thing, which getting the driver from point A to point B. But the Corvette will burn a lot more fuel. Why do people choose Corvettes? I would not choose one, but they have their reasons.

Stick to discussing LC, you don’t know much about cars.  A Corolla and a Corvette "do the same thing" only for a very broad definition of "the same thing", and the reason one burns more fuel than another under different conditions has little to do with metabolism. KeS

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: : : : In the months just before the regain were you still eating : : Paleo, : : or had you added grain and starch based foods back in? : : : : The amount of weight you are losing or gaining is very small. : : It’s : : just : : a few extra calories a day. Maybe look at slightly larger : : portion : : sizes : : or a decrease in your exercise. : : : : Well, I was hoping, rightly or wrongly, that by eating low carb : : and : : with some exercise, I would naturally regulate how much I eat, : : without thinking too much or going hungry. : : : : As a former fat person, I just don’t think it will ever be that : way for you. Sorry. : : I appreciate the comment, but is the above not what low carb diets : are claiming to accomplish? "Eat LC, do not be hungry and reach your : ideal weight". Low carb diets don’t claim anything…the people pushing them make the claims…and they can oversell a thing, as I’m sure you know.  But, specically, I was referring to your comment about "naturally regulate how much I eat, without thinking too much or going hungry".  Why is it that going hungry sometimes is such a bad thing? And the fact is, some people just enjoy eating…and that means you’re going to have to pay attention if you don’t want to be fat. The process doesn’t have to be all that painful. : : For me personally, LC worked just like that until approximately : March. I hope that it will continue to work, although I am now : doubting it. I think you’re expecting too much, honestly.  Surely you don’t think you can eat all the meat and fat you want (assuming you want a lot) and never gain weight, do you? : : : : I started eating low carb at normal weight, way after I lost 50 : : lbs. The main rationale for going LC was to be able to maintain : : weight : : without being hungry all the time, like I was when I was : : maintaining weight on a general "eat less" diet. That was the : : hope. : : Well, you weren’t hungry all the time…were you?  It seems you : were successful. : : Well, yes, but I gained 3-4 or so lbs at some point. That’s my : current concern. You mentioned weight gain before, followed by a loss.  How is this really different? : : : : : It worked quite beautifully in the first 8 months. I was eating : : all I wanted, and was not gaining. Sometimes I would gain a : : couple of lbs temporarily and they would go away in a couple of : : weeks. It was a : : fairly carefree existence. Then I gained 3-5 lbs in March, and it : : would not go away until I decided to tough it out and "eat less" : : for : : one week. : : Seems like I recall they came very quickly and, according to this, : you lost them in a week.  Not bad if you ask me. : : Agreed. : : : : : So, I am concerned that as my body adjusted to LC, this diet will : : stop : : working as well. Time will tell if that’s so. I am very busy with : : some projects right now, and I would very much like to be on some : : sort of : : diet that lets me concentrate on something else besides eating. : : LC : : was "it", but now I am beginning to have concerns. : : IMO, you’re worrying about nothing.  Keep doing what you’re doing, : and if you pick up a few pounds, restricting eating for a week to : settle down. It’s just your way…live it with. : : That makes full sense to me. : — : 223/175.6/180

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would not think that a single event, like a birthday indulgence would be the trigger.  The clues to the change would be in the regular everyday menu. IMHO Adding a few pounds a year is the typical symptom of the modern diet.  I was expecting that eating Paleo would avoid the list of possible causes for that gain. Thanks for keeping us updated. I’m 5′ 8" and this weight (we are almost exactly the same weight now)  is obviously too high for me.  I’m carrying fat in a paunch and on my upper arms near my shoulders.   I’m thinking I should set a new goal around 150. I plan to wait until I reach the original goal of 165 before changing my goal officially.   Are you taller, or heavy boned, or very muscular?

I’m 5′ 8" also, and am at 171 now. When I started LC 5 years ago (at 248 pounds), I was sure that 175 would be a good weight for me, boy was I wrong  I’ve set a new goal of 165, and am getting more convinced that I’ll need to be around 155. Heck, maybe I should just aim for 148   to make it an even 100 pounds of loss. I got down to around 190 pounds in around a year, then hovered around there and slowly gain 15 or so pounds through poor eating habits before getting more strict with my eating habits last July. Even though the pounds are coming off much more slowly now (I’m presently losing at around 3 pounds a month) each pound makes a heck of a larger difference in appearance than it did 50 pounds ago. — — Chris Smolinski Black Cat Systems http://www.blackcatsystems.com

Response:

Quoting Ignoramus8220: : Well, I was hoping, rightly or wrongly, that by eating low carb and : with some exercise, I would naturally regulate how much I eat, : without thinking too much or going hungry. As a former fat person, I just don’t think it will ever be that way for you. Sorry. I appreciate the comment, but is the above not what low carb diets are claiming to accomplish? "Eat LC, do not be hungry and reach your ideal weight".

Oh, I think that’s an overly optimistic interpretation of what various plans are claiming. For me personally, LC worked just like that until approximately March. I hope that it will continue to work, although I am now doubting it.

Like Roger suggested, you’ll likely always have to consciously exercise some sort of control over your intake. : I started eating low carb at normal weight, way after I lost 50 : lbs. The main rationale for going LC was to be able to maintain : weight without being hungry all the time, like I was when I was : maintaining weight on a general "eat less" diet. That was the hope.

Personally, I’ve adjusted to lowered carb in terms of it controlling my appetite and this happens to a lot of people (I think I’ve mentioned this to you before). However, I plan on continuing to watch carbs and gluten indefinitely for health reasons.     Well, you weren’t hungry all the time…were you?  It seems you were successful. Well, yes, but I gained 3-4 or so lbs at some point. That’s my current concern.

I’ve had to remain vigilant the last few years.  In many ways, maintaining is almost as tough as losing.     I’d recommend that you don’t let yourself fluctuate any more than what you’re confident you can easily lose in a week or two.  For me, that’s no more than 3 lb.  Which is what it sounds like you’re doing. Either that, or relax a bit on weekends and plan it out during the week. Stepping up the weight training so that you add more muscle mass might help as well.  

Response:

Yes.  Yes.  I quite agree.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would not think that a single event, like a birthday indulgence would be the trigger.  The clues to the change would be in the regular everyday menu. IMHO Adding a few pounds a year is the typical symptom of the modern diet.  I was expecting that eating Paleo would avoid the list of possible causes for that gain. Thanks for keeping us updated. I’m 5′ 8" and this weight (we are almost exactly the same weight now) is obviously too high for me.  I’m carrying fat in a paunch and on my upper arms near my shoulders.   I’m thinking I should set a new goal around 150. I plan to wait until I reach the original goal of 165 before changing my goal officially.   Are you taller, or heavy boned, or very muscular? I’m 5′ 8" also, and am at 171 now. When I started LC 5 years ago (at 248 pounds), I was sure that 175 would be a good weight for me, boy was I wrong  I’ve set a new goal of 165, and am getting more convinced that I’ll need to be around 155. Heck, maybe I should just aim for 148 to make it an even 100 pounds of loss. I got down to around 190 pounds in around a year, then hovered around there and slowly gain 15 or so pounds through poor eating habits before getting more strict with my eating habits last July. Even though the pounds are coming off much more slowly now (I’m presently losing at around 3 pounds a month) each pound makes a heck of a larger difference in appearance than it did 50 pounds ago. — — Chris Smolinski Black Cat Systems http://www.blackcatsystems.com

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hey  i , I am wondring what your numbers mean? Last one is 180  so I thought that you WANTED to be at this? Just nosey me:) You are doing really well !! PLEASE rub shoulders with me  :)   glo

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There was a thing in the paper this week about how most people seriously underestimate how many calories they are taking in daily – so given that, its not surprising that many people THINK they are not eating too much when they actually are taking in more than they need to stay stable or lose. You see it in this forum all the time – especially from newbies who complain that they aren’t eating much but are gaining or at least, not losing – essentially wanting someone to tell them some magic secret OTHER than…uh, eat less than you are and see what happens. I’m mom of three, and wow, the amount I can nibble during food prep, or post meal clean up is really amazing and I’m not really aware of what I’m doing (like, there are only a few spoons of mashed potatoes left in the pot, not enough for left overs….instead of letting them go to waste…I’ll just eat them! ARGH!).  Keeping a strict food diary does help, as does relentlessly weighing/measuring portions. I really don’t think its metabolism in terms of some kind of post diet slow down , I think its just that our body wants to regain, makes us hungry, and we are kinda oblivious sometimes to just how much we are actually taking in. Oh, I dream of my younger days when my weight stayed stable for years without me paying ANY attention to it. Those days are gone, gone, gone. Mary G. 5′ 6" tall, started at 195 last Sept, goal was 135 reached in Feb, now just south of 130.

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You haven’t aligned your setpoint properly yet. — Most people are dumb as bricks; some people are dumber than that.  – MFW

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mary, I agree with you. There is no doubt that I gained weight due to eating too much. What concerns me is why did I start eating too much, whereas for 8 months before, I did not eat too much without trying to limit eating. i

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JC Der Koenig schreef: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You haven’t aligned your setpoint properly yet. And what are the implications of this statement? You have a bodyweight setpoint and a bodyfat setpoint. Dieting down to 175, and then trying to stay at 175, means that you’re trying to constantly fight against your setpoints which will be somewhat higher than where you are at. For me, my bodyweight setpoint is between 10 and 15 pounds above where I dieted down to.  The bodyfat setpoint is the difference of a few percent. How does that affect you?  I believe that if you dieted down to about 160, and then let yourself creep up to the weight you are at now, you would be able to maintain that weight much more easily.  It depends on where your individual setpoint is though. It might take a few cycles to get the adjustment right.

Hmm, maybe that would work, if you lift weights so the weight you gain back is mostly muscle and not just fat. Of 2 people who weigh the same, the one with the most lean body mass can eat more without gaining weight. Berna (101.5/69.3/~68) — ( )_( ) Berna M. Bleeker-Slikker / http://www.volksliedjes.nl

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Mary, I agree with you. There is no doubt that I gained weight due to eating too much. What concerns me is why did I start eating too much, whereas for 8 months before, I did not eat too much without trying to limit eating.

It occured to me there’s an aging aspect as well. We are said to gain a pound at year after 40 because our BMR slows down.

Response:

You haven’t aligned your setpoint properly yet. And what are the implications of this statement?

You have a bodyweight setpoint and a bodyfat setpoint. Dieting down to 175, and then trying to stay at 175, means that you’re trying to constantly fight against your setpoints which will be somewhat higher than where you are at. For me, my bodyweight setpoint is between 10 and 15 pounds above where I dieted down to.  The bodyfat setpoint is the difference of a few percent. How does that affect you?  I believe that if you dieted down to about 160, and then let yourself creep up to the weight you are at now, you would be able to maintain that weight much more easily.  It depends on where your individual setpoint is though. It might take a few cycles to get the adjustment right.

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I would be relatively content if I was only gaining 1 lb per year after the age of 40.

I don’t see that it would be particularly comfortable or conducive to staying active to be 40 lbs overweight at the age of 80. janice

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Quoting Ignoramus20928: Quoting Ignoramus8220: Like Roger suggested, you’ll likely always have to consciously exercise some sort of control over your intake. Would you say, then, that LC may make it easier?

Yes. What is, in your opinion, the benefit of LC if we accept that we have to control how much we eat, anyway. [...] Personally, I’ve adjusted to lowered carb in terms of it controlling my appetite and this happens to a lot of people (I think I’ve mentioned this to you before).

Perhaps I should have been more specific above:  lowered carb doesn’t control my appetite as well as it once did.  However, my appetite is definitely lower than it would otherwise be if I ate carbs ad libitum (as opposed to the 80-120g/day or so I currently consume). So, that’s one benefit.   Another is delaying or preventing the onset of diabetes (very strong family history of T2).  In addition, eating grains also tends to give me indigestion and cause me to feel poorly (fibro-ish/achy/low energy level). Have you adjusted, in the sense of LC not working as well anymore? Am I misinterpreting what you said?

I was mainly referring to it no longer working as well in terms of appetite suppression, not anything else.  I don’t buy into that ‘LC gives a thermodynamic advantage’ nonsense. It works just fine as long as I eat the appropriate amount of calories.  It’s ok to be a little hungry every once in a while. Hopefully you’ll be successful in coming to terms with that.

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: Quoting Ignoramus8220:

: : : Well, I was hoping, rightly or wrongly, that by eating low : : carb and : : with some exercise, I would naturally regulate how much I eat, : : without thinking too much or going hungry. : : As a former fat person, I just don’t think it will ever be that : way for you. Sorry. : : I appreciate the comment, but is the above not what low carb diets : are : claiming to accomplish? "Eat LC, do not be hungry and reach your : ideal : weight". : : Oh, I think that’s an overly optimistic interpretation of what : various : plans are claiming. : : That would be unfortunate, if true. : : For me personally, LC worked just like that until approximately : March. I hope that it will continue to work, although I am now : doubting it. : : Like Roger suggested, you’ll likely always have to consciously : exercise some sort of control over your intake. : : Would you say, then, that LC may make it easier? Yes…and that is the main benefit. :What is, in your : opinion, the benefit of LC if we accept that we have to control how : much we eat, anyway. Well, go back to how you were eating before going LC…You’ll be hungry all of the time instead of just eating naturally, but with no real hunger, and dieting every now and then.  You’re not a robot, Ig, so expecting perfection is really asking too much.

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Question:

Your dealer has got a lot of nerve to check out your credit when its better than GM’s itself. Did GM ever ask your opinion before they made a dumb ass mistrake like messing with an ITALIAN carmaker?  Those Italians make for good lovers, good cooks, and good gangsters.  Their  guns are mediocre and their cars stink.  Ever hear of an Alfa Romeo?  They’re a joke.  Their Ducati motocycles are pretty good, but GM doesn’t make bikes.  Just lead sleds. Got suggestions for a better car to be more competetive than the foreign competition?  Don’t bother suggesting to GM.  You’ll get a nasty form letter back telling you they don’t take "no suggestions" and what’s more, if you thought of it, be aware GM has thought of it a long time before you did.  Arrogant folks, those dumb ass managers at GM. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -GM Warned of Possible Downgrade By Tom Brown DETROIT (Reuters) – General Motors Corp. (GM.N: Quote, Profile, Research) was warned of another possible cut in its debt rating on Monday, a day after the world’s largest automaker said it would spend about $2 billion (1.55 billion euros) to end its troubled alliance with Fiat Spa (FIA.MI: Quote, Profile, Research) . Moody’s Investors Service changed GM’s credit rating outlook to negative from stable, citing the cost of GM’s separation from Fiat and the "increasing challenges in its competitive and operating environment." A negative outlook is foreboding, suggesting that GM’s rating could move lower over the next 12 to 14 months to the verge of junk status when it could be hit with higher borrowing costs. Several analysts stressed that the link-up between GM and the Italian industrial group entailed a big cost to GM with little apparent benefit. One called it a "strategic blunder." GM, struggling with rising health-care costs and falling U.S. market share, can ill-afford to make any mistakes. There is mounting skepticism that it will meet its modest target for net income of between $2.3 billion and $2.8 billion this year. GM had already written off its original $2.4 billion investment in Fiat, before the disclosure on Sunday that it would pay an added $2 billion to end the partnership. The payout also eliminated Fiat’s so-called put option with GM, and the threat that GM would eventually take over Fiat’s money-losing auto operations. Merrill Lynch analyst John Casesa called the cancellation of the put a relief, since the effect of combining GM’s money-losing operations in Europe with those of heavily-indebted Fiat Auto could have been "staggering." In a research note, Casesa said there was little upside in the whole GM-Fiat affair, however, despite GM’s claims to the contrary. As a result of the $2 billion payment, GM will take an after-tax writedown of $840 million, or $1.49 per fully diluted share. "In total GM spent $4.4 billion to establish and terminate its almost five-year relationship with Fiat, an amount that is much greater than the $2.6 billion it lost in its European operations over the same time period," Casesa said. GM did walk away with some assets from its divorce with Fiat, including half of a diesel engine factory in Poland. But Graeme Maxton of Autopolis, an auto industry consultant in Britain, said GM clearly failed to get much bang for its buck. "They’ve wasted the best part of $4.5 billion for nothing," Maxton told Reuters. CONTINUING TO STRUGGLE Moody’s rating on GM is two notches above speculative grade, or junk status, but Standard & Poor’s, which affirmed its ratings on GM on Sunday, has it just one notch above junk. Scott Sprinzen, S&P’s chief auto analyst, told Reuters the agency viewed Sunday’s deal as "a neutral transaction" since GM managed to dispel a lot of uncertainty in exchange for its payoff. But adding to jitters about a possible cut of GM to junk, Sprinzen said in a research note the automaker "continues to struggle in its two most important markets, North America and Europe." He said S&P sees a risk to GM’s 2005 profit outlook, adding: "We believe it could be difficult for GM to improve earnings beyond 2005." Maxton saw a very real threat of GM’s debt slipping to junk status because the automaker could lose more U.S. market share this year to foreign rivals like Toyota Motor Corp. (7203.T: Quote, Profile, Research) He called the GM-Fiat tie-up, first announced back in 2000, a big mistake on the part of GM’s senior management. "They convinced the markets and they convinced each other this was a good idea," Maxton said. "Whether it is excusable to have made that kind of a strategic blunder is a different question." Moody’s rates GM "Baa2," or two notches above junk, and its finance arm, GMAC, one notch higher at "Baa1." "Even if GM gets cut to a step above junk, which is a little more possible today after Moody’s put its rating on negative outlook, GMAC will likely still be at least two steps above junk," said Brian Ropp, auto credit analyst at T. Rowe Price in Baltimore. GM’s shares gained 10 cents, or a wafer thin 0.27 percent, to close at $37.24 in Monday’s trading on the New York Stock Exchange.

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Your dealer has got a lot of nerve to check out your credit when its better than GM’s itself.

Let me guess…….they turned you down.

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Question:

        Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks..

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        Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks..

What type of engine and trans is in a Montana?

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Have a look at www.pistonslap.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks.. What type of engine and trans is in a Montana?

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I believe there is a problem with the 4th clutch hub assembly, causing the transmission to fail prematurely

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Have a look at www.pistonslap.com         Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks.. What type of engine and trans is in a Montana?

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John Check this out : http://forums.vmag.com/mvventure1199/ Intake manifold gasket, several electrical problem and power sliding door seems the 3 weakest point. Anayway I own a ‘00 Venture with 50km miles with (almost) no problem. Chris. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks..

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Montana’s are fairly good mini vans. GM warranty’s are garbage… Dan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks..

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I don’t know for 03-04 specifically but Venture/Montana/Silhouette have a very bad tracking record IMOO. Common problems I have seen are lower intake manifold leak, Transmission pressure control solenoid, piston slap, rust, leaking windshield seal and over time, the vehicle develop a lot of cabin rattles. My Montana is my last GM.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks..

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know for 03-04 specifically but Venture/Montana/Silhouette have a very bad tracking record IMOO. Common problems I have seen are lower intake manifold leak, Transmission pressure control solenoid, piston slap, rust, leaking windshield seal and over time, the vehicle develop a lot of cabin rattles. My Montana is my last GM. Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks..

I’m driving a 2002, no complaint so far. Would buy another one tomorrow. There is no perfect car, all dealership repair facility are busy…

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It is a shame that these idiots on the web read a few posts of problems and relate them to the whole car production. Only people who have problems report in newsgroups and one or two continuously posting can make it look like there are major problems. Most who post have very little knowledge of cars and have no idea what they are posting about. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know for 03-04 specifically but Venture/Montana/Silhouette have a very bad tracking record IMOO. Common problems I have seen are lower intake manifold leak, Transmission pressure control solenoid, piston slap, rust, leaking windshield seal and over time, the vehicle develop a lot of cabin rattles. My Montana is my last GM. Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks.. I’m driving a 2002, no complaint so far. Would buy another one tomorrow. There is no perfect car, all dealership repair facility are busy…

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    I speak of the piston slap problem from first hand experience. I had a 2002 Venture for 11/2 years and traded it back to GM as they would do NOTHING about the sound which was getting louder and louder. They said it was "Normal". Sounded like a diesel for the first 5 minutes after start-up at 40,000 miles.     I made sure I was very well "armed" with info and written trade-in allowances from other dealers (non-GM) who either gave a low trade-in or would not take the vehicle at all. I got a very good trade-in allowance by the way.     It’s not the "whole car production", it’s the "whole engine production". Like I said in a previous posting above, check out www.pistonslap.com and you’ll see it’s not just that particular engine either. Better yet, type in "piston slap" in Google and see what you get.     Now, about the "idiot" thing, I have posted here a couple of times regarding this issue and asking what other thought. Others have posted their stories as well which is how I found out what it was. In short, "SIR", you might do well to do some research before you go off and call others idiots because they have problems with that make and model. The poster DID ask for opinions. What do you think this newsgroup is for, to brag about trouble-free vehicles? I wish someone had of told me before I bought the van.     If you’re wondering what I traded the P.O.S.Venture in on, it was a Vibe and ONLY because it’s 95% Toyota. 15,000 trouble-free miles and not ONE problem, not even a squeak or a rattle. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is a shame that these idiots on the web read a few posts of problems and relate them to the whole car production. Only people who have problems report in newsgroups and one or two continuously posting can make it look like there are major problems. Most who post have very little knowledge of cars and have no idea what they are posting about. I don’t know for 03-04 specifically but Venture/Montana/Silhouette have a very bad tracking record IMOO. Common problems I have seen are lower intake manifold leak, Transmission pressure control solenoid, piston slap, rust, leaking windshield seal and over time, the vehicle develop a lot of cabin rattles. My Montana is my last GM. Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks.. I’m driving a 2002, no complaint so far. Would buy another one tomorrow. There is no perfect car, all dealership repair facility are busy…

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       Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks..

Spend some time here: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm Do a vehicle search (I’d look at a couple years of a model at least)

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I agree with you. Finding common problems require more than newsgroups research. Rely on facts and not a few posts about a specific problem.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is a shame that these idiots on the web read a few posts of problems and relate them to the whole car production. Only people who have problems report in newsgroups and one or two continuously posting can make it look like there are major problems. Most who post have very little knowledge of cars and have no idea what they are posting about. I don’t know for 03-04 specifically but Venture/Montana/Silhouette have a very bad tracking record IMOO. Common problems I have seen are lower intake manifold leak, Transmission pressure control solenoid, piston slap, rust, leaking windshield seal and over time, the vehicle develop a lot of cabin rattles. My Montana is my last GM. Looking at buying one.  Will be getting one still under warranty, and will probably get a service contract, but are there any known issues that should make me rethink my choice? Thanks.. I’m driving a 2002, no complaint so far. Would buy another one tomorrow. There is no perfect car, all dealership repair facility are busy…

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Question:

It’s all in the relative and cumulative gear ratios in your transmissions and differentials and tire sizes.  Mazda’s final drive ratio is .8 times the other.  You take the final ratio of your transmission, let’s say 1 to 1, and an engine turning 2800 rpm turns the drive shaft at 2800 rpm.  Then with a differential ratio of 3.55 to 1, would drop that down to a wheel rpm at 789 rpm.  Then include the circumferance of the tire to figure out how much distance is covered by each rpm of the wheel .. different wheel sizes cover different amounts of ground at the same rpm, resulting in different final speeds.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, What I want to know is the difference which causes this effect , I have Two Cars. Mazda 626 1.8 and Toyota Corolla 1.8 , in Mazda when RPM is 2800 it reaches 120KM/h but in Toyota the same speed 120KM/h reaches when RPM is 3500

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Noname wrote in alt.autos Hi, What I want to know is the difference which causes this effect , I have Two Cars. Mazda 626 1.8 and Toyota Corolla 1.8 , in Mazda when RPM is 2800 it reaches 120KM/h but in Toyota the same speed 120KM/h reaches when RPM is 3500

Gearing. Manufacturers choose the gear ratios based on the power of the engine, and what kind of performance they think the customers want. The two engines have different power characteristics, and need to be geared differently just to be able to do the same thing. — Dick #1349 "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~Benjamin Franklin Home Page: dickcr.iwarp.com

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Hi, What I want to know is the difference which causes this effect , I have Two Cars. Mazda 626 1.8 and Toyota Corolla 1.8 , in Mazda when RPM is 2800 it reaches 120KM/h but in Toyota the same speed 120KM/h reaches when RPM is 3500

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"Noname" wrote What I want to know is the difference which causes this effect , I have Two Cars. Mazda 626 1.8 and Toyota Corolla 1.8 , in Mazda when RPM is 2800 it reaches 120KM/h but in Toyota the same speed 120KM/h reaches when RPM is 3500

The gear (incl. tire) ratio. And maybe the differences of your instruments (if they are not exact, esp. the speedometer). Thomas

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Question:

Why no washers?  The little bit of radius at the root of the shank of the bolt needs somewhere to go, yes? And may I assume you’re putting these bolts in a reamed hole?

You’ll find the bolt will bury itself into the aluminum or magnesium and that little radius will tend to squeeze the metal onto the shaft. Try it on a sample and have a look, the bolt will be hard to get back out of the hole also. A radius on the nut can do the same. Cheers Cam Ps. maybe not "aeronautically correct,"    but it works.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 5. Galvanic corrosion .. magnesium is at -1.6 V and alumnium at -0.75 V on the galvanic table. That is a big different. You definitely need something to separate the two or the magnesium is going to get gobbled up !! Hmm, perhaps. I get that aluminum alloy is about -1.05.  But look at the difference between Cast Iron (-.5) and aluminum (-1.05).  Lots of cars, with WATER running through their engines, have cast iron blocks and aluminum heads.  In this situation, there is no ready source of electrolyte.  I don’t see this as a huge concern.  I’m more bothered by oil leaks. Auto engines have head gaskets between the electro different metals, plus if you don’t run an inhibitor is a mutli-metal water cooled engine you will corrode the aluminum away, period. Yours Vern

Rotary engines don’t.  Some people are running straight H20.  Never heard of that particular problem…period. — http://www.ernest.isa-geek.org/ "Ignorance is mankinds normal state,    alleviated by information and experience."                                    Veeduber

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I’m working on a Hummel Aviation Ultracruiser Plus.  The way the engine mounts is quite different from the mounts on most VW powered homebuilts.  

Snipped to save bandwidth To see what this installation looks like:

FOR A 1/2 VW — I’ve figured out since then that the full meal deal needs 4 bolts, longer angles, and a new bolt pattern http://flyhummel.com/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=170

I’ve posted a page of drawings, photos, and my usual snide remarks: http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/UCPlusEngMnts.html Thanks for all who have contributed to this discussion!

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I have never seen an epoxy that will work to 500 deg F … the limit from what I have seen is approx 450 deg F and even that is pushing it. However whilst some epoxies are claimed to be able to have Tg’s of 350-450 F it is not quite that simple. I know because I am working with these adhesives on a current project … in fact I have just had a series of Tg tests run non 4 different epoxies and the results were surprising. The issue is that you can only achieve the high Tg numbers quoted by a very careful and usually very complex post cure heating cycle. A homebuilder would never achieve this. With a simple post cure (i.e. ramp up, hold, ramp down) some of the resins with more modest Tg values will perform a lot better … actually the Tg numbers you will get from these resins will surpass those for the the resins which claim higher Tg values.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – These angles are bolted and epoxied to the side of the magnesium case.  My point: what good is the epoxy? I had further conversation with Scott Casler. Hi I use a epoxy that is similar to JB Weld. Scott ( Hummel Engines) —– Original Message —– Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 3:24 PM To bond the aluminum angles to the side of the magnesium case? Thanx for your previous reply to my inquiries. Ryan Young Ultracruiser Plus Builder From the JB Weld web site: Properties (lbs/psi) Tensile Strength: 3960 Adhesion: 1800 Flex Strength: 7320 Tensile Lap Shear: 1040 Shrinkage: 0.0% Resistant to 500

Question:

450ft/lbs wasnt enough in my case,  that was with a 15ft airhose and 150 psi at the gun. some have luck with much less, most do not

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – says… The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? Would a 250ft/lbs model work? Alex

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says… The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you.

Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? Would a 250ft/lbs model work? Alex

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says… The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? Would a 250ft/lbs model work? Alex

250 ft/lbs – probably not enough.  The nut is torqued to 180 ft/lbs when installed.  It takes somewhere around twice that or more to break it loose.

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||says… || ||The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed ||to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). ||Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. || ||Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? ||Would a 250ft/lbs model work? If it will generate an honest 250 ft/lbs, yes. I have 3 1/2" impacts, all rated at 250 ft/lbs Rodac – nearly new Generic – as new Chicago Pneumatic – Old and obviously led a hard life. The CP will out-toque them all.  But it wouldn’t break that crank bolt loose. I had to use a 18" breaker bar and a 4 foot cheater bar. Even then that handle bent like a piece of rubber before it broke loose. When it came loose, it felt like it had broken off, but it was fine.   One of the newere super-torque wrenches that advertise 600 ft/lbs should do it fine. Next time I’ll invest. Texas Parts Guy

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says… The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? Would a 250ft/lbs model work?

No.  The really light duty stuff will struggle. An IR-231 or similar will work fine though. Note: To reply, replace the word ’spam’ embedded in return address with ‘mail’. N37.3 W122.0

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||Thanks for the help guys!  For some reason I was under the impression I ||should have changed it at 60k miles and I was way over due!  Anyhow, by ||doing the job myself, I could save enough money to BUY a compressor and ||impact wrench… This is the primary reason to take on an job yourself: Acquire more tools at essentially no cost, and no guilt.   Your wife will sign off on major tool purchases under these conditions. Texas Parts Guy

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DARN!!!!  I missed out!  I could have had some REAL tools out of that — KWW

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ||Thanks for the help guys!  For some reason I was under the impression I ||should have changed it at 60k miles and I was way over due!  Anyhow, by ||doing the job myself, I could save enough money to BUY a compressor and ||impact wrench… This is the primary reason to take on an job yourself: Acquire more tools at essentially no cost, and no guilt.   Your wife will sign off on major tool purchases under these conditions. Texas Parts Guy

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||I’m surprised you could get it loose with only a 2 foot bar.  I used a 4 ||foot piece of gas pipe on a hardened breaker bar with an impact socket.  The ||bar twisted a full 90 degrees before the bolt broke loose. Me too.   Pretty scary! I put the car in gear and chocked the wheels. Does not work on auto trans vehciles. Texas Parts Guy

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Thanks for the help guys!  For some reason I was under the impression I should have changed it at 60k miles and I was way over due!  Anyhow, by doing the job myself, I could save enough money to BUY a compressor and impact wrench… I just dont want to screw the car up hehe.  If the Crank bolt is the most difficult part, then I am not too worried about it. But seeing as I plan on selling it soon anyhow, maybe I should just deduct 300-400 from the asking price and let the buyer deal with it as they wish. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m surprised you could get it loose with only a 2 foot bar.  I used a 4 foot piece of gas pipe on a hardened breaker bar with an impact socket.  The bar twisted a full 90 degrees before the bolt broke loose. If you aren’t going the impact wrench route, the tool to immobilize the crank is about $50.  You can get it at http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT406_pg4.htm Two suggestions: 1) Wedging a screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel does work, but requires patience. 2) Do NOT use something to grab the pully belts to hold the crank pully still that way. Instead of an air wrench I used a 2 foot long breaker bar, situated it so that I could push against it with my foot while sitting on the ground and grabbing the car frame, and thankfully the bolt came loose. You will feel better about this project if you have an alternate form of Xportation as a backup so that you don’t HAVE to get it all done in one weekend.  If you need to replace an extra seal or you mess up a little part, it is nice to wait and be able to order the new part. I saved a bundle using www.cheapesthondaparts.com!

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I’m surprised you could get it loose with only a 2 foot bar.  I used a 4 foot piece of gas pipe on a hardened breaker bar with an impact socket.  The bar twisted a full 90 degrees before the bolt broke loose. If you aren’t going the impact wrench route, the tool to immobilize the crank is about $50.  You can get it at http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT406_pg4.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Two suggestions: 1) Wedging a screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel does work, but requires patience. 2) Do NOT use something to grab the pully belts to hold the crank pully still that way. Instead of an air wrench I used a 2 foot long breaker bar, situated it so that I could push against it with my foot while sitting on the ground and grabbing the car frame, and thankfully the bolt came loose. You will feel better about this project if you have an alternate form of Xportation as a backup so that you don’t HAVE to get it all done in one weekend.  If you need to replace an extra seal or you mess up a little part, it is nice to wait and be able to order the new part. I saved a bundle using www.cheapesthondaparts.com!

Response:

Two suggestions: 1) Wedging a screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel does work, but requires patience. 2) Do NOT use something to grab the pully belts to hold the crank pully still that way. Instead of an air wrench I used a 2 foot long breaker bar, situated it so that I could push against it with my foot while sitting on the ground and grabbing the car frame, and thankfully the bolt came loose. You will feel better about this project if you have an alternate form of Xportation as a backup so that you don’t HAVE to get it all done in one weekend.  If you need to replace an extra seal or you mess up a little part, it is nice to wait and be able to order the new part. I saved a bundle using www.cheapesthondaparts.com! — KWW

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I need to change the timing belt on my 99 Accord EX 4 cyl (80,000 miles). I am pretty decent at working on cars, I can do brake work (disks and drums) I always change my own oil, I have attempted a timing belt replacement on an 84 Toyota pickup before with little success (I did not keep adequate track of bolt locations.)  I have replaced the clutch on a 95 Tacoma 4×4. Is this engine difficult to service?  I mean I can save 200 or more dollars if I can do it myself. I assume I will need to extract the engine, or can it be done with the engine in place.  What about water pumps, etc?  I mean, should I just cough up the extra cash and hire a shop to do it (part of the problem is I dont trust shops). TIA all! The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. Your belt is not due for at least another 10,000 miles if not more (check your owner’s manual service schedule – they switched from 90,000 to 105,000 mile change interval around ‘99 or 2000).  Plenty of time to research whether you want to attempt it yourself or just pay somebody.

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I need to change the timing belt on my 99 Accord EX 4 cyl (80,000 miles). I am pretty decent at working on cars, I can do brake work (disks and drums) I always change my own oil, I have attempted a timing belt replacement on an 84 Toyota pickup before with little success (I did not keep adequate track of bolt locations.)  I have replaced the clutch on a 95 Tacoma 4×4. Is this engine difficult to service?  I mean I can save 200 or more dollars if I can do it myself. I assume I will need to extract the engine, or can it be done with the engine in place.  What about water pumps, etc?  I mean, should I just cough up the extra cash and hire a shop to do it (part of the problem is I dont trust shops). TIA all!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I need to change the timing belt on my 99 Accord EX 4 cyl (80,000 miles). I am pretty decent at working on cars, I can do brake work (disks and drums) I always change my own oil, I have attempted a timing belt replacement on an 84 Toyota pickup before with little success (I did not keep adequate track of bolt locations.)  I have replaced the clutch on a 95 Tacoma 4×4. Is this engine difficult to service?  I mean I can save 200 or more dollars if I can do it myself. I assume I will need to extract the engine, or can it be done with the engine in place.  What about water pumps, etc?  I mean, should I just cough up the extra cash and hire a shop to do it (part of the problem is I dont trust shops). TIA all!

The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. Your belt is not due for at least another 10,000 miles if not more (check your owner’s manual service schedule – they switched from 90,000 to 105,000 mile change interval around ‘99 or 2000).  Plenty of time to research whether you want to attempt it yourself or just pay somebody.

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Question:

Hi, Is the Kakadu Highway (21) going south from Kakadu towards Katherine aaccessible to regular passenger cars (not 4-wheel drive) the end of October?   If so, about how much time would the drive from Kakadu to Katherine take? Thanks,   Annice

Response:

Is the Kakadu Highway (21) going south from Kakadu towards Katherine accessible to regular passenger cars (not 4-wheel drive) the end of October?   If so, about how much time would the drive from Kakadu to Katherine take?

In a ‘normal’ year, yes; absolutely. We drove from Katherine to Jabiru last year at exactly that time (end of October) in a Toyota Camry with no trouble at all. It took a leisurely half-day. By the way, when you’re in Kakadu, get the special permit and go across to Injalak (Oenpelli). You won’t regret it. cheers, Henry

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You may regret it if you try crossing the East Alligator River at Cahills Crossing in a Toyota Camry – depending, perhaps, on the state of the tide.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is the Kakadu Highway (21) going south from Kakadu towards Katherine accessible to regular passenger cars (not 4-wheel drive) the end of October?   If so, about how much time would the drive from Kakadu to Katherine take? In a ‘normal’ year, yes; absolutely. We drove from Katherine to Jabiru last year at exactly that time (end of October) in a Toyota Camry with no trouble at all. It took a leisurely half-day. By the way, when you’re in Kakadu, get the special permit and go across to Injalak (Oenpelli). You won’t regret it. cheers, Henry

Response:

You may regret it if you try crossing the East Alligator River at Cahills Crossing in a Toyota Camry – depending, perhaps, on the state of the tide.

Did it, 27/10/03, and lived to tell the tale.   cheers, Henry

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Question:

I am comptemplating purchasing a 2004 Civic EX from Honda of Bellevue, WA. Would like to have readers opinions about the following: 1. Has anyone had experience with Honda of Bellevue, WA? How are they to deal with? Satisified or stay away? 2. What has been your experience with the 2004 model Civic EX. What known problems am I likely to face? I’ve been out of the Honda market for a long while, so I am trying to get up to speed.  Any help in making a decision is greatly appriciated. Thanks much in advance.

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I am comptemplating purchasing a 2004 Civic EX from Honda of Bellevue, WA. Would like to have readers opinions about the following: 1. Has anyone had experience with Honda of Bellevue, WA? How are they to deal with? Satisified or stay away? 2. What has been your experience with the 2004 model Civic EX. What known problems am I likely to face? I’ve been out of the Honda market for a long while, so I am trying to get up to speed.  Any help in making a decision is greatly appriciated.

Hmm, do you know that the Civic now has a MacPherson strut front suspension?… and still has the dated SOHC engine?  There were problems with the early versions — upgraded struts & springs — with the new strut suspension but AFAIK they have been corrected.  OTOH if there’s no advantage there, IMO the Corolla looks like a better all-around car.  If you can live with a 3-door hatch, there’s also the Scion tC… being sold through Toyota dealerships.  I have to take a look at it some time: www.scionlife.com Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

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If you can live with a 3-door hatch,

 there’s  also the Scion tC… being sold through  Toyota dealerships. I have to take a look  at it some time: www.scionlife.com I got a peak at the Scion tC in person this weekend. Very nice looking and it only strengthened my resolve to figure out a way to put one in a stable that’s already full. For anyone interested in checking it out, may I suggest www.edmunds.com They have several pictures of the interior and exterior to examine, along with an accessories list (extensive!) and comments & reviews from a handful of new owners.  

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advantage there, IMO the Corolla looks like a better all-around car.  If you can live with a 3-door hatch, there’s also the Scion tC… being sold through Toyota dealerships.  I have to take a look at it some time: www.scionlife.com

same platform and engine as the echo, but better looking, IMO. supposedly theyve been using that engine in their cars since the tercel.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you can live with a 3-door hatch,  there’s  also the Scion tC… being sold through  Toyota dealerships. I have to take a look  at it some time: www.scionlife.com I got a peak at the Scion tC in person this weekend. Very nice looking and it only strengthened my resolve to figure out a way to put one in a stable that’s already full.

its a great value, and almost as fast as the lexus is300, supposedly. maybe im getting old, but 2 door sports cars all look alike to me- the rsx, tc, tiburon…

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its a great value, and almost as fast as

 the lexus is300, supposedly. maybe im  getting old, but 2 door sports cars all  look alike to me- the rsx, tc, tiburon…   Ion… ( a natural progression both literally and phonetically!)

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advantage there, IMO the Corolla looks like a better all-around car.  If you can live with a 3-door hatch, there’s also the Scion tC… being sold through Toyota dealerships.  I have to take a look at it some time: www.scionlife.com same platform and engine as the echo, but better looking, IMO. supposedly theyve been using that engine in their cars since the tercel.

Huh?  The engine in the tC is the same as the Camry and there is a factory supercharger option, not that I’d personally want it. The chassis/platform is said to be based on a model we don’t get in the U.S.,  the Avensis.  No idea how that relates to Echo. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – advantage there, IMO the Corolla looks like a better all-around car.  If you can live with a 3-door hatch, there’s also the Scion tC… being sold through Toyota dealerships.  I have to take a look at it some time: www.scionlife.com same platform and engine as the echo, but better looking, IMO. supposedly theyve been using that engine in their cars since the tercel. Huh?  The engine in the tC is the same as the Camry and there is a factory supercharger option, not that I’d personally want it. The chassis/platform is said to be based on a model we don’t get in the U.S.,  the Avensis.  No idea how that relates to Echo.

the xA and xB are on the echo platform

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am comptemplating purchasing a 2004 Civic EX from Honda of Bellevue, WA. Would like to have readers opinions about the following: 1. Has anyone had experience with Honda of Bellevue, WA? How are they to deal with? Satisified or stay away? 2. What has been your experience with the 2004 model Civic EX. What known problems am I likely to face? I’ve been out of the Honda market for a long while, so I am trying to get up to speed.  Any help in making a decision is greatly appriciated. Hmm, do you know that the Civic now has a MacPherson strut front suspension?… and still has the dated SOHC engine?  There were problems with the early versions — upgraded struts & springs — with the new strut suspension but AFAIK they have been corrected.  OTOH if there’s no advantage there, IMO the Corolla looks like a better all-around car.  If you can live with a 3-door hatch, there’s also the Scion tC… being sold through Toyota dealerships.  I have to take a look at it some time: www.scionlife.com Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

The EX is DOHC Anyway, if you have driven a 130 hp Corolla you know it is no where near as fast as even the regular 115 hp (LX) engine.  I have no idea why. Plus, the Corolla is funky inside and out. I mean why is the S available only with a black interior? Is this so everyone in Texas, Calif, & Florida can lose weight? IMHO the Civic is boring but way nicer to drive. TC is okay if it was available as a 4 door. Some of us have kids

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Anyway, if you have driven a 130 hp Corolla you know it is no where near as fast as even the regular 115 hp (LX) engine.  I have no idea why.

Actually, the Corolla IS faster than a Civic with the base engine.  If comparing Corolla to the 127hp VTEC engine, they’re about the same.  And I’m not counting the high powered Corolla XRS model. Plus, the Corolla is funky inside and out. I mean why is the S available only with a black interior? Is this so everyone in Texas, Calif, & Florida can lose weight?

I don’t know about in the U.S., but the S model in Canada is available in 6 different colours. IMHO the Civic is boring but way nicer to drive. TC is okay if it was available as a 4 door. Some of us have kids

I’m a proud Honda owner, but even I feel that the current Corolla is a better car than the current Civic.

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Anyway, if you have driven a 130 hp Corolla you know it is no where near as fast as even the regular 115 hp (LX) engine.  I have no idea why. Actually, the Corolla IS faster than a Civic with the base engine.  If comparing Corolla to the 127hp VTEC engine, they’re about the same.  And I’m not counting the high powered Corolla XRS model.

No way, at least not in real world driving. In fact I was just about to buy a Corolla until I test drove one, it is an unbelievable dog under 30 mph, despite the 130 hp rating (which must be at the very high end) Plus, the Corolla is funky inside and out. I mean why is the S available only with a black interior? Is this so everyone in Texas, Calif, & Florida can lose weight? I don’t know about in the U.S., but the S model in Canada is available in 6 different colours.

Six different colors all with a BLACK interior. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – IMHO the Civic is boring but way nicer to drive. TC is okay if it was available as a 4 door. Some of us have kids I’m a proud Honda owner, but even I feel that the current Corolla is a better car than the current Civic.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyway, if you have driven a 130 hp Corolla you know it is no where near as fast as even the regular 115 hp (LX) engine.  I have no idea why. Actually, the Corolla IS faster than a Civic with the base engine.  If comparing Corolla to the 127hp VTEC engine, they’re about the same. And I’m not counting the high powered Corolla XRS model. No way, at least not in real world driving. In fact I was just about to buy a Corolla until I test drove one, it is an unbelievable dog under 30 mph, despite the 130 hp rating (which must be at the very high end)

It probably is at the high end. Plus, the Corolla is funky inside and out. I mean why is the S available only with a black interior? Is this so everyone in Texas, Calif, & Florida can lose weight? I don’t know about in the U.S., but the S model in Canada is available in 6 different colours. Six different colors all with a BLACK interior.

My bad.  I missed where you said "interior". Another pro of the Corolla over the Civic is that the Corolla’s engine has a timing chain, while the Civic’s engine is belt-driven.

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Another pro of the Corolla over the Civic

 is that the Corolla’s engine has a timing  chain, while the Civic’s engine is  belt-driven.   When did Toyota start using chains? In the past, they’ve used belts.

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Another pro of the Corolla over the Civic is that the Corolla’s engine has a timing chain, while the Civic’s engine is belt-driven. When did Toyota start using chains? In the past, they’ve used belts.

The Corolla has been chain-driven since (I think) some time during its previous generation (1998-2002).

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The Corolla has been chain-driven since (I think) some time during its previous generation (1998-2002).

Yeah, since 1998. Do not write below this line. Reserved for me.

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Question:

Is there anything bad with the pilot compare with the toyota highlander. Any pros and cons.

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Is there anything bad with the pilot compare with the toyota highlander. Any pros and cons.

You’ll find some detailed comparison between the 2 cars at www.hondapilot.org.  I remember reading about a couple of previous Highlander owners providing their insight on that subject.  Do a search or look in the "Comparison" section.

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I just put on Goodyear Assurance Comfortred on my 02 CRV – they are: 1) very quiet 2) very scary

I’d be inclined to think that the ComforTred wasn’t designed for use on a vehicle like the CR-V. I put Goodyear Regatta 2’s on my ‘93 Accord last month, and I have been very pleased with them so far.  They are quiet, smooth riding, have good wet weather traction, and handling is decent (although not sporty).  I would have considered Dunlop SP Sport A2’s (a favourite of this newsgroup) if I had more money to spare.

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I just put on Goodyear Assurance Comfortred on my 02 CRV – they are: 1) very quiet 2) very scary Scary because their very "squishy". Just kick the tire and see it wobble and give.

when i replaced my tires, i went to sams club. they had the tires stacked in columns on the floor. they had 2 stacks of 195/60 14’s, side by side… BFG, and goodyear. the goodyear stack had an extra tire on it and was still lower than the BFG stack. i felt the sidewalls of both kinds with my fingers, and the goodyear was thinner. interesting! so the goodyear had thinner sidewalls, a lower treadwear rating and cost $10/each more. i got the BFG touring T/A’s and have been really happy with em. its amazing what semi-sticky +1 tires will do for a cars handling, compared to the OEM fireSTONE (they were hard as rocks after 6 years, and still had 50% tread left!!!)

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I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life.    You’ve just described the new Goodyear Assurance TripleTred, an amazing tire. No other tire company offers all the technological advances that the Goodyear Assurance TripleTred has.  For more information on this tire, go to —-  www.goodyearassurance.com

The Tripletred appears too good to be true.  Do you have any personal experience with these tires or does anyone else on this newsgroup?  I looked at the tire rack reviews, but with only nine reviews, it is too soon to tell. I am in the same boat wiht my Accord and I am considering Michelin, Bridgestone and Dunlop thus far in a 205/60R16 size to mount on the orginal alloy rims.

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I just put on Goodyear Assurance Comfortred on my 02 CRV – they are: 1) very quiet 2) very scary Scary because their very "squishy". Just kick the tire and see it wobble and give. The quietness must come from making the tire soft so as to absorb vibrations. This comes at the expense of handling. At speeds of around 50/60 mph and up, doing a quick avoidance manouver is frightening. Take a quick right turn followed by a left to simulate avoiding an obstacle in the road. When first turning the wheel right, there is a noticeable delay while the sidewalls sag. Then the car reacts and you can feel the sidewalls snap back from their coiled position. This causes the car to lunge out to the right putting you further out to the right than you wanted.(an oversteer). This oversteer can then very easily lead to having to over compensate when you have to turn the wheel back the other direction. So now you have to turn left hard. Doing this really makes the tires sag. It feels like the car is getting ready to roll over. I’m sure that the rollover risk with these tires is greatly increased. I do not feel safe in these tires. They also don’t track very well. With the old OEM tires (Bridgestone Duelers – horrible tires) the car tracked very solidly. Now the car will wander left and right occasionally. Wierd.

Maybe that’s just the Aquatreads, but I won’t ever try another set of Goodyears.

  You are missing out on some excellent tires then.  Goodyear’s new TripleTred’s and ComforTred’s are putting the tire industry on its ear. No other tire company can compare. To respond via e-mail, simply take the, "REMOVEXX" out of my return e-mail address.

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I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life.

   You’ve just described the new Goodyear Assurance TripleTred, an amazing tire. No other tire company offers all the technological advances that the Goodyear Assurance TripleTred has.  For more information on this tire, go to —-  www.goodyearassurance.com To respond via e-mail, simply take the, "REMOVEXX" out of my return e-mail address.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size rims on the car. Thanks for any opinions.

I had pretty good luck with Dunlop AS. A little quieter than the Michelins, but I got just about as much wear out of them as the Michelins before replacement. Handled fine and cost only 2/3 what the Michelins would have cost.

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I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size rims on the car.

I put the Avid Tourings on my ‘95 Accord wagon and I like them a lot.  No problems at all.  I used the stock size.  Got them at America’s Tire for approx. $20 more than I would have spent getting them online (after adding for shipping, mounting & balancing).  I think that’s money well spent considering I now have free rotations, flat repairs, etc. for the life of the tires. Good luck, WW

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I put Regatta 2’s on a Toyota Sienna van and was very pleased with them. Comfortable, quiet ride. Of the course the van was no wizard in handling to begin with, so I can’t say how crisp the tires would be through the curves. But I was very pleased with them. Norm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires. In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size rims on the car. Thanks for any opinions. I recently put a set of Goodyear Regatta 2’s on my ‘93 Accord, and they are quiet, smooth riding, and have good wet traction.  Handling is acceptable, but definitely not sporty (of course, I wasn’t looking for that anyway).  I cannot yet comment on tread life and snow traction, but they are reportedly good.  Comments for this tire on TireRack.com are generally positive, and my brother had them on one of his cars and said they were good tires.  I know Goodyear does make some crappy tires like the Integrity, but the Regatta 2 seems to be one of their better tires.

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Maybe that’s just the Aquatreads, but I won’t ever try another set of Goodyears.

  You are missing out on some excellent tires then.  Goodyear’s new TripleTred’s and ComforTred’s are putting the tire industry on its ear. No other tire company can compare. To respond via e-mail, simply take the, "REMOVEXX" out of my return e-mail address.

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I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations?

I put Dunlop SP Sport A2s on our Accord EX Coupe L4 when the original Turanzas got too thin to go another Winter.  I’ve used them before on other cars and they seem to fit the bill you have in mind.  If you want even better wet grip there’s also the Dunlop SP5000 – a bit more money but amazing wet grip. Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size rims on the car.

You could go to 205/60-15 with very little change in diameter (http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html) and maybe get a little better cornering ability. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

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I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires. In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size rims on the car. Thanks for any opinions.

I recently put a set of Goodyear Regatta 2’s on my ‘93 Accord, and they are quiet, smooth riding, and have good wet traction.  Handling is acceptable, but definitely not sporty (of course, I wasn’t looking for that anyway).  I cannot yet comment on tread life and snow traction, but they are reportedly good.  Comments for this tire on TireRack.com are generally positive, and my brother had them on one of his cars and said they were good tires.  I know Goodyear does make some crappy tires like the Integrity, but the Regatta 2 seems to be one of their better tires.

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I’ve purchased Kumho Ecsta HP4 716 for $42 on tirerack and think that they are great tires. They sound as quiet as the Michelins and grip as good. On tirerack they are rated #5, higher than the Michelins and all the reviews that I have seen indicate that they are good overall tires. Time will tell if they are as good as people say they are. Nick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size rims on the car. Thanks for any opinions.

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I’d go for AVID or Michelin Hydroedge. Checkout the new Goodyear, I can’t remember the name right now.

: I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In : order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, : (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web : sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting : or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had : experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? : : Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original : 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size : rims on the car. : : Thanks for any opinions. : : :

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I don’t know about Goodyear.  I’ve tried Goodyears (Aquatreads) on 2 different occasions.  The first time was an ‘89 Accord and the other was a ‘95 Intrepid.  Both times they made the steering sluggish (it made them both feel like an old soft-sprung American car.  I originally thought it did that on the Accord because the tires were so small to start with and then loosing that extra 3/4" groove in the center took too much rubber off the road. Apparently, that was not the case, when I put them on my Intrepid, it made the steering sloppy also.  I was so dissaatisfied, I had the dealer pull them back off and put something else on. Maybe that’s just the Aquatreads, but I won’t ever try another set of Goodyears.  (The Intrepid originally had Michelins which handled well on that car.)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d go for AVID or Michelin Hydroedge. Checkout the new Goodyear, I can’t remember the name right now. : I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires. In : order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, : (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web : sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting : or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had : experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? : : Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original : 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size : rims on the car. : : Thanks for any opinions. : : :

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I’ve just bought a 2000 Accord EX and want to replace the worn tires.  In order, my criteria for a new tire is (1) wet traction, (2) low road noise, (3) smooth ride, (4) handling and (5) tread life. I’ve checked several web sites like Tire Trac and have identified the Yokoham AVID Touring as meeting or exceeding all criteria and for an incredibly low price.  Has anyone had experience with the tires, or have any other recommendations? Also, I was wondering if there’s any advantage to replacing the original 195/65-15 with a larger size tire, or if that’s even possible with the size rims on the car. Thanks for any opinions.

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